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[n/a mike]

I have a curt hitch on my 2013 CR-Z 
I don't use it to tow anything so don't give me shit about that. I use it for a hitch mounted bike rack to hold my mtn bikes. My rack and bikes are well within the tongue weight limits and all that crap.
The hitch mounts to the "frame" with two bolts and uses a bolt and bracket to mount to the tow hook. The tow hook brackets are approximately 3/16" too far apart and they are too thick for the bolt to squeeze them together to pinch the tow hook.
Part of me thinks it was designed this way on purpose, I'm thinking the bolt through the tow hook is only there to keep the entire hitch from falling off the car.
But at the same time it can't be designed that way because the "frame" is too flimsy so the whole hitch moves. It moves so much that my bike rack will move about 4" up and down.
I solve this problem by using a cam strap to pull the rack up so it won't bounce all over, but I'd really like to fix the actual problem.

First thing I tried was adding washers in between the brackets, but the bolt can't squeeze the bracket tight enough to pinch the tow hook.
I tried wedging something in between the tow hook and brackets perpendicular and parallel, but that didn't work either.
I've tried everything I can think of except cutting the welds and welding the brackets closer. I'm not sure that will work either since the brackets are so thick the bolt can't bend them anyway.

Do any of you have ideas before I take this shit to a shop and have them weld the brackets directly to the tow hook.

[n/a mike]

Video of hitch moving
https://youtube.com/shorts/5v5_pXuYB9Q?feature=share

[92CXyD]

So you want it to not move in the loop?   


Can you just washer it or cut a hockey puck to fit the tow loop, then drill a hole thru puck for bolt and use 2 large washers to sandwich it all together or something like and it be all reversible if need be.

[ratcityrex]

Get a hockey puck and carve it to fit the width of the tabs and tall enough it hits the top of the tow hook/floor pan. Basickly making a solid spacer. Then drill a hole in it the diameter of the bolt. Kinda ghetto but would work.

[n/a mike]

So you want it to not move in the loop?   


Can you just washer it or cut a hockey puck to fit the tow loop, then drill a hole thru puck for bolt and use 2 large washers to sandwich it all together or something like and it be all reversible if need be.

Get a hockey puck and carve it to fit the width of the tabs and tall enough it hits the top of the tow hook/floor pan. Basickly making a solid spacer. Then drill a hole in it the diameter of the bolt. Kinda ghetto but would work.

Kinda ghetto is exactly what I'm looking for...

Basically you guys are saying to make a puck motor mount for the tow hook
I thought about filling the whole thing with window weld, but if it didn't work it would be a hell of a time cleaning it all out.
Trimming a puck would be a lot of work, but it might actually work out.
I've got a few laying on livingroom floor.

[ratcityrex]

So you want it to not move in the loop?   


Can you just washer it or cut a hockey puck to fit the tow loop, then drill a hole thru puck for bolt and use 2 large washers to sandwich it all together or something like and it be all reversible if need be.

Get a hockey puck and carve it to fit the width of the tabs and tall enough it hits the top of the tow hook/floor pan. Basickly making a solid spacer. Then drill a hole in it the diameter of the bolt. Kinda ghetto but would work.

Kinda ghetto is exactly what I'm looking for...

Basically you guys are saying to make a puck motor mount for the tow hook
I thought about filling the whole thing with window weld, but if it didn't work it would be a hell of a time cleaning it all out.
Trimming a puck would be a lot of work, but it might actually work out.
I've got a few laying on livingroom floor.

Pretty much. If you made it just the inside diameter of the tow hook but the thickness of the inside if the flange you should be golden. Got a belt sander and some 60 grit? Probably be the easiest way. Makena templet out of cardboard of the tow hook and transfer it to the puck. Make it slightly larger and trim to fit.

[n/a mike]

Pretty much. If you made it just the inside diameter of the tow hook but the thickness of the inside if the flange you should be golden. Got a belt sander and some 60 grit? Probably be the easiest way. Makena templet out of cardboard of the tow hook and transfer it to the puck. Make it slightly larger and trim to fit.

I don't have a belt sander, but I do have a buffer I used to throw 60 grit on and use as a grinder/sander. That's what I'd use to grind the bird shit HF flux core welds I did.
Gonna try this weekend if I have time.
I need to replace the lower control arm Saturday because the ball joints aren't removable.
Dumbest shit ever, making a part that wears out not replaceable

[ratcityrex]

Yeah, go to hf and get a couple of flap grinding disks in like 30 grit. Most times it easier to replace the whole lower control arm that the ball joint. And only like $15 more.