Topic: How to get the EBAY T3/T4 turbo to spool faster? (Read 14860 times)

reddevil · « **on:** August 16, 2009, 04:05:23 AM »

Yeah, so I am rocking the infamous T3/T4, about 340whp @ 5500-6000 rpm. Only issue is that it doesnt hit boost till 4500 rpm, and I have a 6500 redline. AND..... Boost completely falls off in 1st 2nd, almost 3rd when shifting....

Any ideas?

Best so far of 13.3 @ 104.

And while this may be stupid, the slow spoolup with big turbos is gerenally due to the larger exhaust housing correct?

Burntrubber87 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 16, 2009, 04:09:44 AM »

bigger DP..? more free flowing..maybe a cutout or something

Corey · « **Reply #2 on:** August 16, 2009, 04:30:08 AM »

sounds like your heads flow about as well as piss flows through my dick while i have morning wood.

even a d series makes boost on those before 4500.

reddevil · « **Reply #3 on:** August 16, 2009, 04:39:35 AM »

Its on a Subaru for what its worth

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #4 on:** August 16, 2009, 04:42:01 AM »

reddevil · « **Reply #5 on:** August 16, 2009, 04:43:54 AM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on August 16, 2009, 04:42:01 AM

n2o

Has not been discounted.... However, this is the daily family wagon, so I need to keep it where I can carry 1 wife, 2kids, a bike or two and a dog.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 16, 2009, 07:26:30 AM »

Put the correct sized T3 turbo for your power goal. The T4 compressor you have takes a ton of power to spool, and it's too big for your power anyways.

t_cel_t · « **Reply #7 on:** August 16, 2009, 07:49:05 AM »

build up the inside of the turbine housing with jb weld, smaller volume=higher gas velocities=win, im drunk

silver · « **Reply #8 on:** August 16, 2009, 08:07:10 AM »

free up your exhaust sys.

junkyard racer · « **Reply #9 on:** August 16, 2009, 09:07:19 AM »

get a different car

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 16, 2009, 12:10:19 PM »

Buy a real turbo and chuck the cdm trash.

jagojon3 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2009, 12:44:38 PM »

Do a boost leak test. It's possible to have small leaks and still be able to hold full boost just fine.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #12 on:** August 16, 2009, 12:45:40 PM »

Quote from: reddevil on August 16, 2009, 04:05:23 AM

Yeah, so I am rocking the infamous T3/T4, about 340whp @ 5500-6000 rpm. Only issue is that it doesnt hit boost till 4500 rpm, and I have a 6500 redline. AND..... Boost completely falls off in 1st 2nd, almost 3rd when shifting....

Any ideas?

Best so far of 13.3 @ 104.

And while this may be stupid, the slow spoolup with big turbos is gerenally due to the larger exhaust housing correct?

Any more information on the turbo? How does the pre-turbo piping look?

caged · « **Reply #13 on:** August 16, 2009, 03:07:57 PM »

subaru's suck shit for quick spool up. Try wrapping your manifold and uppipe. What set up is on this car now?

reddevil · « **Reply #14 on:** August 16, 2009, 03:41:02 PM »

Quote from: caged on August 16, 2009, 03:07:57 PM

What set up is on this car now?

This is the build..

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2171.0

Running 22ish psi, so over 4500rpm is screams.

And I don't care how much my welding looks, there are no leaks and the inside of the piping is clean....

Up and downpipe are wrapped.

I may have one more boost leak, my throttle body butterfly valve shaft? But I havent had time to change that out....But it is a minor leak (although, minor can be BIG).....

HiProfile · « **Reply #15 on:** August 16, 2009, 07:25:51 PM »

Get a SPA .63ar divided T3 housing, then make up a quick-spool valve so it's .32ar for spoolup. Or make a better style that works with a divided uppipe, halving the ar# for spooling and making it fully divided for full boost.

Otherwise get a real garrett CHRA. I recall someone on ohmt having power and spool issues, turned out it was the ebay turbo's thrust bearing taking a major shit.

98vtec · « **Reply #16 on:** August 18, 2009, 12:55:33 AM »

run -50* timing

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #17 on:** August 18, 2009, 03:26:30 AM »

what size is the up ipe? i can't see it in the build thread. if it is 2.5" that could be why it is slugish.

a smaller up pipe would keep velocity up. then again i don't know the up pipe size.

t_cel_t · « **Reply #18 on:** August 18, 2009, 05:40:40 AM »

put a fuel injector in the manifold, set to dump continually

Aero · « **Reply #19 on:** August 18, 2009, 07:37:48 AM »

1. Pick up a HE351ve for <$150 off eBay.
2. Install with wastegate actuator on vgt arm for variable a/r ratio
3. Profit.

Urban Indian · « **Reply #20 on:** August 18, 2009, 10:44:12 AM »

trevor72 · « **Reply #21 on:** August 18, 2009, 11:59:18 AM »

Quote from: 98vtec on August 18, 2009, 12:55:33 AM

run -50* timing

agreed

can anti-lag come in Subaru language?

98vtec · « **Reply #22 on:** August 18, 2009, 08:14:59 PM »

Quote from: trevor72 on August 18, 2009, 11:59:18 AM

Quote from: 98vtec on August 18, 2009, 12:55:33 AM
run -50* timing

agreed

can anti-lag come in Subaru language?

better be ready for the block to become one big non-rotating hunk of metal

97Econobox · « **Reply #23 on:** August 18, 2009, 09:30:49 PM »

Quote from: t_cel_t on August 18, 2009, 05:40:40 AM

put a fuel injector in the manifold, set to dump continually

I love this thread. I think this was my favorite answer so far.

HiProfile · « **Reply #24 on:** August 21, 2009, 10:23:11 PM »

Quote from: 97Econobox on August 18, 2009, 09:30:49 PM

Quote from: t_cel_t on August 18, 2009, 05:40:40 AM
put a fuel injector in the manifold, set to dump continually

I love this thread. I think this was my favorite answer so far.

Get an injector from a direct-injection motor. It can handle the heat & pressure for a while if you put it very close to the head. And pray.

caged · « **Reply #25 on:** August 22, 2009, 01:47:58 AM »

Iv always wanted to put a water injection nozzle to spray in subaru turbo headers, Its surpose to turn to steam and decrease spool alot. Why is the limiter at 6500rpm? does it fall off after that? we take our 2.5L out to 7-7300k. I also found that my WRX went alot better when I fucked off the standard ecu, piggy back computer, airflowmeter and map sensor clamp and went with a good tune. 1000 times better. Are you still using the Legacy ecu with a piggy back? The v3-6 wrx ecu and loom is a good upgrade.

kgx · « **Reply #26 on:** August 22, 2009, 07:02:23 PM »

Quote from: caged on August 22, 2009, 01:47:58 AM

Iv always wanted to put a water injection nozzle to spray in subaru turbo headers, Its surpose to turn to steam and decrease spool alot.

or put it in the mouth of the turbo. wet compression is almost 100% efficient.

another thing you could do is use a throttle plate on the turbo inlet that opens a hair slower than the primary throttle, using the engine's suction to create a negative pressure ratio across the compressor to allow the compressor to help drive the impeller shaft.

BMW and renault did this on their F1 turbo engines.

caged · « **Reply #27 on:** August 23, 2009, 01:09:48 AM »

Quote from: kgx on August 22, 2009, 07:02:23 PM

Quote from: caged on August 22, 2009, 01:47:58 AM
Iv always wanted to put a water injection nozzle to spray in subaru turbo headers, Its surpose to turn to steam and decrease spool alot.

or put it in the mouth of the turbo. wet compression is almost 100% efficient.

That wont decrease spool tho, but I agree pre turbo is great.

reddevil · « **Reply #28 on:** August 24, 2009, 02:01:18 AM »

I am going to go recirculating BOV and give that a shot.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #29 on:** August 24, 2009, 02:05:50 AM »

you have yet to show how the pre-turbo piping looks? that there will tell alot.

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Author Topic: How to get the EBAY T3/T4 turbo to spool faster? (Read 14860 times)

junkyard racer