Topic: Breaking in Rebuilt Motor (Read 10899 times)

Cooljnateman · « **on:** August 28, 2009, 09:18:33 PM »

does anyone have any articles anywere i could read, im putting a rebuilt ls in my car monday.

I just wana make sure i do this right
like what oils to use pre break in and after
how to drive it for first couple hundred miles
can i throw the turbo on right away or not
how important is it to tune it now

Just a whole bunch of newb questions since this is gna b a first

Towdogg · « **Reply #1 on:** August 28, 2009, 09:52:11 PM »

Shut up and listen this time thats how.....

Don't beat on it till your told or after i do......

Google search........

http://www.google.com/

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2009, 09:57:22 PM »

i read all that i just want some first hand experience tips and recomendations

Towdogg · « **Reply #3 on:** August 28, 2009, 10:12:26 PM »

Cfm's don't roll through an air intake!

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2009, 10:57:12 PM »

break in equals lots of thick oil and change em alot plus a little bit of BEATIN UP DA MOTOR

patsmx5 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 28, 2009, 11:04:35 PM »

There's tons of info on this, just search. I would fire it up to a 2K idle let it warm up to temp, make sure nothing leaks, shutdown and let it cool overnight. put radiator cap on, fire it up. let it warm up to temp at 2K idle, then go break it in the right way, then park it and change the oil and filter. Cheap oil, good filter though. Then put 2K on it like that. After 2K I'd switch to synthetic and it's done.

But a hundred people could chime in and argue that my way is dumb, pointless, retarded, stupid, etc. Do some research and come to your own conclusions.

Ghetto_D · « **Reply #6 on:** August 28, 2009, 11:23:41 PM »

I just droped mine in. started on the first try. Checked for leaks, and drove on the freeway at night for 7 hours 500 miles. went home, changed the oil, took it easy for the next 400 miles (1 week of going to work and back), then turboed it and started raping it on a daily basis

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2009, 12:06:45 AM »

would there b a problem turboing it from the get go?

t_cel_t · « **Reply #8 on:** August 29, 2009, 03:48:48 AM »

Quote from: Cooljnateman on August 29, 2009, 12:06:45 AM

would there b a problem turboing it from the get go?

well if you are using the same setup from befor and you had a solid tune on it then it shouldnt be a prob, but if you had some 9.5afr soot blowin tune then your gunna fuck your cylinder walls.

SDRAWKCAB · « **Reply #9 on:** August 29, 2009, 03:54:20 AM »

2 heat cycles never letting the rpms stay the same.
then high vac pulls.

biscuit · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2009, 12:44:24 PM »

vacuum is your friend

ryan89crx · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2009, 12:56:41 PM »

lol so far everyone has done to opposite of what i did

ALWAYS make sure your AFRs are in check

fire it up, let it warm up and adjust fuel to get desired AFRs
(some people change oil after initial heat cycle, but i dont)
drive low RPM for a few minutes making sure AFR is fine.
do a few medium throttle pulls, only taking it to 5k or so, let the engine decel you
change oil
drive around always changing gears and keeping RPMs fluctuating, hit boost, just dont rev the fucker all the way out. always let the engine slow you down. all the time make sure your AFRs are in check.
after about 500miles, change oil
drive the fucker like you stole it, boost, hard pulls, etc...again, let the engine slow you down
change the oil after 750 miles

good to go

d112crzy · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2009, 12:57:04 PM »

Don't break it in unless it's getting tuned. Or if you're setup is close enough to stock than you can use a stock ecu to break it in.

turbohf · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2009, 01:06:53 PM »

getting ready to do this again, so lets recap...

double check everything over...like 4 times more lol.
start motor up, listen and look for funny shit. watch the wideband, look for leaks and FIX if there are any. let idle for about 20mins till the fans cycle threw a couple times (Honda recommends this for new bearings btw), bleeding the coolant (got a sweet funnel that does all the work).
after that, shut it off. let it cool a min, pull the plugs out and do a compression test. if its legit (and it aways has been what i wanted) you call LEED tell him it runs minty with no leaks or CEL (you need to fix those when they come up) and tell him your coming up, and for him to verify dyno apointment.
LEED works his magic, we rip on the car all fuckin day adding more boost/timing/rpms till we get a magic dyno number....

do some dirty 2nds = ;D <~ then go home happy

ryan89crx · « **Reply #14 on:** August 30, 2009, 01:13:45 PM »

Quote from: turbohf on August 30, 2009, 01:06:53 PM

do some dirty 2nds = ;D <~ then go home happy

i think you mean 3rds

turbohf · « **Reply #15 on:** August 30, 2009, 01:23:05 PM »

Quote from: ryan89crx on August 30, 2009, 01:13:45 PM

Quote from: turbohf on August 30, 2009, 01:06:53 PM
do some dirty 2nds = ;D <~ then go home happy
i think you mean 3rds

tru, this new setup may infact do some 3rds...

88dx · « **Reply #16 on:** August 30, 2009, 01:55:33 PM »

Quote from: turbohf on August 30, 2009, 01:06:53 PM

getting ready to do this again, so lets recap...

double check everything over...like 4 times more lol.
start motor up, listen and look for funny shit. watch the wideband, look for leaks and FIX if there are any. let idle for about 20mins till the fans cycle threw a couple times (Honda recommends this for new bearings btw), bleeding the coolant (got a sweet funnel that does all the work).
after that, shut it off. let it cool a min, pull the plugs out and do a compression test. if its legit (and it aways has been what i wanted) you call LEED tell him it runs minty with no leaks or CEL (you need to fix those when they come up) and tell him your coming up, and for him to verify dyno apointment.
LEED works his magic, we rip on the car all fuckin day adding more boost/timing/rpms till we get a magic dyno number....

do some dirty 2nds = ;D <~ then go home happy

Might want to check the lug nuts

jarebear667 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 30, 2009, 02:00:32 PM »

Quote from: SDRAWKCAB on August 29, 2009, 03:54:20 AM

2 heat cycles never letting the rpms stay the same.
then high vac pulls.

+1 and rape to your pleasure

Urban Indian · « **Reply #18 on:** August 30, 2009, 02:26:08 PM »

d-series + 10lbs
---------------------
turn you out

ratcityrex · « **Reply #19 on:** August 30, 2009, 08:45:29 PM »

Quote from: SDRAWKCAB on August 29, 2009, 03:54:20 AM

2 heat cycles never letting the rpms stay the same.
then high vac pulls.

^
Do this. Let it warm all the way up. (as long as everything is good) go out and pull slowley going to 3k and let it decell down to 1, then go to 3.5k and let it go down to 1k, do 500rpm increments up to about 6k. then bring her home dump the oil, and filter. Run about 250 miles do another oil change and you should be good to go. High vac seats rings.

My 8.0:1 low comp Ls compression tests out at 175 across the board. And put down 125whp on a stock tune.
With-in 50 miles of having my Ls running, I was at the track bouncing off the rev limt.

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #20 on:** August 30, 2009, 11:24:39 PM »

Quote from: ratcityrex on August 30, 2009, 08:45:29 PM

Quote from: SDRAWKCAB on August 29, 2009, 03:54:20 AM
2 heat cycles never letting the rpms stay the same.
then high vac pulls.
^
Do this. Let it warm all the way up. (as long as everything is good) go out and pull slowley going to 3k and let it decell down to 1, then go to 3.5k and let it go down to 1k, do 500rpm increments up to about 6k. then bring her home dump the oil, and filter. Run about 250 miles do another oil change and you should be good to go. High vac seats rings.

My 8.0:1 low comp Ls compression tests out at 175 across the board. And put down 125whp on a stock tune.
With-in 50 miles of having my Ls running, I was at the track bouncing off the rev limt.

looks like this is my winner, and for everyone on the site and for my own sake, i will NOT fuck up this time

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #21 on:** August 31, 2009, 07:59:44 AM »

Quote from: ratcityrex on August 30, 2009, 08:45:29 PM

Quote from: SDRAWKCAB on August 29, 2009, 03:54:20 AM
2 heat cycles never letting the rpms stay the same.
then high vac pulls.
^
Do this. Let it warm all the way up. (as long as everything is good) go out and pull slowley going to 3k and let it decell down to 1, then go to 3.5k and let it go down to 1k, do 500rpm increments up to about 6k. then bring her home dump the oil, and filter. Run about 250 miles do another oil change and you should be good to go. High vac seats rings.

I did this on a freinds re ringed b16, and it never had a issue, ran great. We got the idea from his uncle who raced cars along time ago.

MantisX · « **Reply #22 on:** August 31, 2009, 12:38:46 PM »

I ran mine till it warmed up revving here and there, changed the oil and boosted 9lbs for about 1k miles, changed to synthetic and turned it up to a smooth 15. Running fine so far.

98vtec · « **Reply #23 on:** August 31, 2009, 06:53:32 PM »

keep an eye on engine coolant temps. You can do a good bit more with your engine if you keep the engine from getting "hot" in the first couple heat cycles. Also, having an engine management there to fix any imperfections upon first startup is nice to have.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #24 on:** August 31, 2009, 07:47:44 PM »

i broke in my last engine witha 3 hour drive to the dyno, beat the piss out of it and drove it home. no issues and i have been beating on it for 6 months

Conceptz-X · « **Reply #25 on:** August 31, 2009, 07:51:34 PM »

I use non-detergent oil first, with ZDDP additive if the valvetrain isnt roller or shim and bucket type. then after 500 decent miles with a rip here and there, I switch to syn

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #26 on:** August 31, 2009, 08:47:41 PM »

aight good info thanks for the input errr1, ill let u know how it goes soooon :yes:

widebody93 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 01, 2009, 01:04:12 AM »

I started mine up with DMC on the phone. cool trick. Pull the plugs and crank Motor over to get the oil in the bearings. Start it up. Fan kicks on. Let cool. . check coolant level. Change oil and filter. Start back up and I beat the fuck out of it. 20 miles. Changed oil to royal purple next two weeks beat it. Then off to Blundell for my 488hp tune.

Golden.

Oh dont forget to check your valve lash after initial warm up and check at around room temp.

Corey · « **Reply #28 on:** September 01, 2009, 01:29:32 AM »

people who think they have to do the whole 500 mile break-in shit make me laugh. you can tell whos built motors before and who hasnt.

i remember the owners manual in my SRT4 said to break the car in for 300 miles doing WOT pulls every so often. the 300 miles was mostly clutch break in.

my break in is start up hold at 2K till op temp. shut off, change oil, dirty thirds in boost to seat the rings.

dvst8r · « **Reply #29 on:** September 01, 2009, 10:07:45 AM »

I remember very distinctly the first time I was ever around when a Motor was broken in. I would have been some where in that 7-10 years old area. My grandfather had just finished putting a blown 408 in a 55 belair. He used a drill with some home made adapter to pressurize and prime the oil system, set the timing close to where it should be, dumped a pop bottle cap full of fuel down the carb, and had me hit the key. As soon as it fired he took over throttle control, and tinkered with it till it had a high idle. After that he just played with the throttle up and down for about 20min, shut off the car (I didn't realize till many years later that he was breaking in the cam), changed the oil, set the valves, fired it back up, let it get up to operating temp again, did his final adjustment on setting the distributer, as well as setting the carb for the proper idle, then said get in.

We proceeded to do about a 2 block long cooker, drove around town, out on to the hiway did a couple more full throttle pulls, came back to town, put fuel in the car, went back to the farm, changed the oil again, and he pulled the plugs looked at them and changed them out. That was it.

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Author Topic: Breaking in Rebuilt Motor (Read 10899 times)