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[7808]

i bought this truck that some fuckin mexican or chinese person installed a remote start/alarm in it and must of fucked it up because there was a 120v house switch and another switch wired in to bypass some shit

 they were wired to a 10ga or 12ga 2pin harness with white wires near the batt. that i think go to the starter and alternator or somthing

when i bought it, they had just put a fresh battery in the fucker so it ran fine for 2 days, then i find out the alternator is not charging.  pul it out have it tested it shows nothing once then fails a second time.

replace it.  charged the now almost dead batt.  un-installed the alarm and double check wires under the dash/ign harness are ok and they look fine now.   now somthing to do with those 2 heavy gauge white wires under the hood is still a problem i think. i took the switches out when i took the alarm out, and re-connected the wires under the hood where they orginally go

now, when i start the car, it fuckin grinds like your holding the key to start.  and somthing is slowly draining the batt even when its not running.   

disconnected one set of white wires stops the drain,  and disconnecting the other or some combination stops the grinding.    but its only charging at barely 13 volts.  not 13.8+

im thinking somthing is fucked in the alternator and or starter wiring from the fucked remote start install, starter relay sticking or fucked? i just replaced the alternator so  i know its pluged in and the power wire is connected


also it did this wierd shit before i took the alarm out, i just wanted to get rid of that to elminate other shit i might not of seen.


short story:  some  cut two larger gauge white wires under the hood near the batt that probly go to the starter and maybe alternator, spliced in a switch on each one for whatever reason, i took switched out and reconnect them where they obvoiusly go (the two wires were cut differnt sides of 2P plug) it will start with either of them connected or not, but with connected it grinds and with the other it has a slow drain, but either way wont charge more then 13.1v 

[Tim]

pull pos terminal and connect through a multimeter switched to measure current.
Start pulling fuses until your current draw drops off to next to nothing.
That will narrow down what circuit is fucked up drainging your battery, hopefully fixing that will fix your other fucked up problem that i couldnt' focus today to read your whole shit

[7808]

measure for what ?  between the pos. terminal and ?

[Jorsher]

Not based on experience, just simple logic...maybe he wants you to connect a multimeter between the battery and positive terminal.  That way when you start pulling fuses, you'll know which circuit is the problem when the power draw drops...

[Robb]

This

pull pos terminal and connect through a multimeter switched to measure current.
Start pulling fuses until your current draw drops off to next to nothing.
That will narrow down what circuit is fucked up drainging your battery, hopefully fixing that will fix your other fucked up problem that i couldnt' focus today to read your whole shit

and this

Not based on experience, just simple logic...maybe he wants you to connect a multimeter between the battery and positive terminal.  That way when you start pulling fuses, you'll know which circuit is the problem when the power draw drops...

Are correct.  If you cant find the problem that way you probably have some serious B+ and Ground connection issues.  Dont rule out the battery itself.  One dead cell can "drain" the others. 

[7808]

i knew that 

drugs hurt my memory capacity

i think the draw is somthing starter or alternator related honestly, i dont think its a light or power accessory, but who knows.  could be wrong

[Tim]

If you cant find the problem that way you probably have some serious B+ and Ground connection issues.  Dont rule out the battery itself.  One dead cell can "drain" the others. 

I re-read the op and that's what comes to mind.  If someone was trying to fix a starter with a fucked up solenoid or a messed up ignition switch they could cause some fucked up issues had they not known what they were doing.

When you disconnect the wire that 'stops the grinding' and reconnect it when the car is not running do you hear the starter do anything?

What kind of truck you'll probably need a schematic to figure out what all they butchered.

[7808]

ya, the ignition switch, battery, and anything starter and alternator related is suspect right now. besides using those shitty wire taps on the ignition harness, i cant see anywhere the fucked up any wiring

  its a 95 isuzu trooper  i DL'd a manual for it but its got all kinds of fuckin turbo deisel LHD RHD 4cyl 6cyl jap usa  everything in it fuckin hard to dig through it for my specific wiring


ill have to try the recoonect it whne its running thing, why what would that explain?

[2slow4joo]

First things first. Take the battery and go get it tested. Dont try to fix all the expensive shit first to find out the battery is fucked up.

I just went through this on mine. I would actually have to charge the truck every night when I got home. I had dead cells in the battery. Take it to get tested. Its free at any advanced auto, auto zone.

Secondly, unless I read wrong. You said you uninstalled all the alarm shit. So unless you didnt remove a wire thats now grounding out a power source then it SHOULDNT pull any power. With a new alternator Im going to assume its good. Although I have bought brand new parts and they were faulty. So that COULD be a problem too.

Get a multimeter and test the voltage from the bat to alternator. Take a look under the dash see if you might be able to find any wires they might have maimed or cut to splice in. They musta did a god damn shitty job at wiring that alarm and shit in. If they needed to cut and splice into rather most of them have a nice little wiring harness that come with them.

The switch sounded like an added kill switch. So that if they were to park the vehicle somewhere for a long period of time. OR lived in the ghettos. They flip the switch no matter what the truck wouldnt start.

On another note if they rebuilt the starter and fucked it up.

[Robb]

The switch sounded like an added kill switch. So that if they were to park the vehicle somewhere for a long period of time. OR lived in the ghettos. They flip the switch no matter what the truck wouldnt start.

On another note if they rebuilt the starter and fucked it up.

They probably added the switch because the drain was killing the battery and they were too ignorant to find it, and simply turned the switch off when they wernt driving it.  I see this alot on 996/986 (they eat ignition switches) and those pricks think they know what they're doing.  Most of the time its the engineers who try to fix their own cars and fail terribly.  Irony at its finest.

[7808]

i went through all the wiring again, tightened up the alternator belt, hooked  the 2 cut wires back up like i had them, now im getting full charging voltage and the starter doesnt grind any more, battery is staynig charged, drove it to work without an issue..  whatever was messed up i fixed it or it went away

now i hope this piece of shit last me most the winter.  is it normal for an isuzu 3.2L v6 to sound like a diesel engine 

[patsmx5]

Yes, they have terrible valve noise, but it will run that way forever. Try some rotella Synthetic to quiet it down a good bit.

[7808]

thats what ive read.  it is terrible.   well i hope its gm tranny and noisy-est jap engine are good for 250k because i think i bought a roll back from a shady lebonese dealer. found one of those oil change stickers showing almost 100k more then the odometer shows  lol @ me    good thing it was only $700. anyone have carfax?

[Ravage70]

Never buy from Arabs or Frenchmen

[Joseph Davis]

My $0.02.... don't buy cars like that.