Topic: Shit (Read 82233 times)

patsmx5 · « **Reply #60 on:** November 26, 2009, 01:55:16 PM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on November 26, 2009, 04:20:57 AM

No, this was from my shitty trigger wheel setup. It was a couple thousandths out, and after 20K miles of wobbling, it vibrated the big bolt holding that assembly together and then it destroyed itself.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #61 on:** November 26, 2009, 06:25:08 PM »

Ah.

Well, IDK if I should feel bad for you... or be happy that you now have a reason to build the engine.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 02, 2009, 06:29:56 PM »

Pic's of the fuck motor!

patsmx5 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 02, 2009, 06:39:39 PM »

I didn't take any pics, and the car is 260 miles away at home right now. I'll take some pics of it next week though.

Kinda unsure if I'm gonna build an engine or not. It would have to be CHEAP and I don't know if I could do it cheap enough. Plus I need to get it done quick. May just swap the other engine in and get a new trigger wheel piece made so this doesn't happen again. I mean, the stock engine seemed to take the boost fine before, and the new engine has lower compression, which should put me right at 8:1.

I dunno, it's a slippery slope once you take the engine apart and start upgrading things.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #64 on:** December 02, 2009, 11:15:36 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 02, 2009, 06:39:39 PM

Don't be a sissy build that fucker and shoot for the moon :yes:

I am planing on pushing my vitara motor to 30-35psi with my Hx-35 and might throw a 100shot on top of that.

Robb · « **Reply #65 on:** December 03, 2009, 09:58:38 AM »

Id slap it together if it were me. BP arent terribly hard to find, but building a stout one (last time I checked) wasnt for the faint of wallet.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #66 on:** December 03, 2009, 01:27:38 PM »

Yeah, I got a spare engine with 81K miles on an engine stand in the garage that I pulled last year before I boosted it. So I got another stock engine that's good. It's either swap it in or build it some, then swap it in.

Cost and downtime are the biggest problems with building an engine. And the stock motor was taking the boost fine before, so I'm tempted to put another stock engine in and run it. If I kill it, another engine is 80 bucks and 40 miles away.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #67 on:** December 10, 2009, 12:02:13 AM »

Well I've decided that for now, I'm just swapping in the other stock engine that I have. I'll use the shortblock from it, add my miata oil pan/pickup tube, miata specific crap like timing belt covers and reuse my miata's current timing belt, tensioners, and water pump as they're all new from mazda and have ~10K on them. Put the miata's head on the shortblock. And swap the intake cam for another exhaust caam (adds a bit more lift and 4* more duration) and modify the intake camgear such that the intake valves close around 60* ABDC vs. the current 48* ABDC. Or should I go further?

Question: I've got an ebay gasket set. Only thing in it I'm worried about is the headgasket. But I've "heard" a few people run then and they work fine. Is that the general concensus on ebay headgaskets? It's a MLS gasket FWIW.

Also, anything I should do while the engine's out? I'm gonna redo my hardline that goes to the wastegate, thinking about modifying the valve cover for a catch-can setup. Any other ideas? I've got a new pilot and throw out bearing that's going in.

bgdriver · « **Reply #68 on:** December 10, 2009, 12:14:44 AM »

IDK how it is with a Miata but on my Honda Egay gasket set the oil passages on the headgasket didn't line up and the oil pan gasket leaked after 100 miles.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #69 on:** December 16, 2009, 12:36:43 AM »

Started on it today. Dropped off the trigger wheel clusterfuck at the machine shop to get a new one made. Pushed the car under the carport and begun. Friend came over to help and brought a forced air heater so it wasn't too bad out. Got a lot of shit unbolted/removed. Now I'm ready to pull the head bolts and lift the head/intake manifold/turbo manifold/turbo assembly off the shortblock. Then pull the shortblock itself. Then install new (used) shortblock, then hopefully drop the head/intake manifold/turbo manifold/turbo assembly right onto it and not have to take all that shit apart or have to deal with getting to all the bolts for it when it's on the car. We'll see, but I've done a head gasket with the intake manifold on before and that was MUCH easier vs. trying to get to those bolts with the head on the motor. Pics tomorrow I guess. Was too busy working to stop and take pics today.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #70 on:** December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM »

Just bought forged rods. ;D

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #71 on:** December 18, 2009, 01:21:14 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 16, 2009, 12:36:43 AM

Aaron Weir quoted me a nice price on a trigger wheel, just FYI.

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

FUCK YEAH!

arsenio · « **Reply #72 on:** December 18, 2009, 01:55:43 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 18, 2009, 12:44:24 PM

patsmx5 · « **Reply #73 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:20:24 PM »

Well, it turns out I found a simple way to put a ford EDIS4 trigger wheel onto a pulley that I already had that bolted up to the crank in front of the balancer, so all the machinist has to do is turn down the pulley, press on a sleeve, then turn it down to the right diameter and press the trigger wheel on. And the guy doing it has been a machinist for probably 50 years, he's retired, but still does work on the side. So he usually hooks me up and does excellent work. Plus he's only 1 mile from my house.

Going to get the engine ready, install a different cam in the head, and maybe tackle the fuel system. Fuel system I'm unsure of. The car has those plastic o-ring sealed fittings. I need to like slide a piece of fuel hose over the steel tubing those fittings go on I guess, but I'm unsure if that will work safely.

Robb · « **Reply #74 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:33:49 PM »

Sir, in my eperience I have found that just because something is pressed on, doesn't mean it can't move. 911 triggerwheels are notorious for shifting on the flywheel and causing many different problems.I would at least do some tack welds to prevent this.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #75 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:38:48 PM »

Quote from: Robb on December 18, 2009, 03:33:49 PM

Drill at the interface in one or two spots, tap, secure with a set screw and blue loctite.

Robb · « **Reply #76 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:55:23 PM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on December 18, 2009, 03:38:48 PM

Hmm. Clever.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #77 on:** December 18, 2009, 04:05:52 PM »

Quote from: Robb on December 18, 2009, 03:55:23 PM

Yeah. I have a two year in CNC... I don't claim that knowledge as my own, but it's something I acquired from a wise old tool and die maker while there.

Robb · « **Reply #78 on:** December 18, 2009, 04:20:33 PM »

Yeah, always listen to the old guys, they might not be up on the new shit, but they always know something about something. Unlike Henry.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #79 on:** December 18, 2009, 07:02:54 PM »

Quote from: Robb on December 18, 2009, 03:33:49 PM

Yeah, the last one I did myself and pressed it on w/ cylinder sleeve locktite and a 1 thousandth press fit. It hasn't slipped in 20K miles. The machinist making it knows what he's doing and what this is going on, so I'm confident he'll do it right.

Or I may do the tap/drill/locktite thing, I'll ask the machinist what the press fit was and if he thinks anything further is needed to prevent it from slipping.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #80 on:** December 20, 2009, 12:22:55 AM »

Tore the old engine down.

Low compression rod:

Funny, that's from cylinder 1, which had the highest compression

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #81 on:** December 20, 2009, 12:41:58 AM »

Thats not to bad, just bed it back

patsmx5 · « **Reply #82 on:** December 20, 2009, 01:10:54 AM »

These pistons have full floating wrist pins. So when the new rods get here just slide the pin out, switch to a forged rod, and reassemble? Anything to check, other than that the new rods "floats" on the wrist pin? I've heard sometimes you have to hone the bushing of the small end to get the fit right. How do you know when it's right?

jagojon3 · « **Reply #83 on:** December 20, 2009, 02:16:30 AM »

You just hone a little bit at a time. Pretty easy to do.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #84 on:** December 21, 2009, 09:42:19 PM »

Got the rods. They're purrdy. They're 75 grams lighter than the stock rods according to the harbor freight digital scale. Get off work at 3:30 tomorrow, I'll start the engine assembly then. Can't wait.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #85 on:** December 24, 2009, 02:08:51 AM »

Well, been busy but got some work done today. Picked up the trigger wheel setup from the machine shop/ friend. Guy made it a .002" fit, and heated the trigger wheel then assembled and allowed them to cool, so the metal isn't damaged by pressing them together, but once they're the same temp it's a 2 thousands interference fit. And he did a baller job, got the assembly within 2 ten thousands he said.

For free.

Got a nice tour of his shop too. Dude has some awesome old machines. He also checked the small end of the rods where the wrist pin goes, all four were 0.0009" clearance, which is tight end of spec.

Pics

Block cleaned, ready for assembly

Only one problem. No ring compressor and it was 10 PM, all the stores were closed. RHMT ring compressor...

'

Rotating assembly is finished. Looking like I'll have a built motor assembled and running for <500 bucks. :yes:

klyph · « **Reply #86 on:** December 26, 2009, 05:47:16 PM »

Looks good, but your picture taking sucks. Use a shop light and turn off the flash.

Those rods are almost as wide as the big ends

92CXyD · « **Reply #87 on:** December 26, 2009, 05:59:05 PM »

For a RHMT ring compressor I used a wide 3" worm gear camp. :yes:

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #88 on:** December 26, 2009, 06:26:46 PM »

I just spoke to Pat on the phone, dude's geared up and ready to go.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #89 on:** December 27, 2009, 12:39:41 AM »

I thought about using a hose clamp to compress the rings, but couldn't find one the right size to work, then saw the pipe tape stuff and just used it to do the rings. Only took a few minutes to do all four so it wasn't bad. Camera sucks, so do my picture taking skilz.

Got the engine going back together. Got the pan on, oil pump, water pump, brackets, front and rear main seals, flywheel, clutch. Got the motor hanging on the lift, ready to go back in, and called it a night. Tomorrow it will go back in and hopefully get it running. Damn ebay gasket set = shit. NEVER will I buy one again.

News:

Author Topic: Shit (Read 82233 times)