Topic: Cooling Issues (Read 29520 times)

Urban Indian · « **on:** October 28, 2009, 10:29:42 PM »

So as you all know I have this giant fucking intercooler( see below) And I have problems keeping my shit cool if I go for more than a 20 minute drive in stop/go traffic.

Ideas that I have been having.

- Co2 sprayer on the IC and rad
- fan shroud
- GE electric waterpump
- twin rad fans( back of IC to pull air in)
- back of rad

Relay the rad to see if it boosts the power from the stock lines get the rpms up? or am I full of shit

I already have a ZEX kit that I can use, I will just use the bottle, lines and make my own oval tubing to have the c02 spray out of

I think you could just cut the teeth off the stock water pump instead of buying GE's block off plate it would work just as good & using a RV water pump instead of the balla GE one. It will work just as nicely and be cheaper.

pics of pre-made shit

Random Hero · « **Reply #1 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:37:03 PM »

We put 2 fans on my dads car and it still got hot. The only way we found to bring the water temps down was with an oil cooler. If you have an oil temp gauge you will notice your water temps don't start getting hot until the oil temp starts to skyrocket.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:40:12 PM »

Anything flows from high to low. Temp, pressure, voltage, you name it.

By looking at that picture, I'm going to say you need to work out shrouding. The heat exchangers rely on the flow of air into the bumper and shrouding to build an area of high pressure in-front of the heat exchanger. No pressure delta, no airflow. The pressure delta the fan generates is a couple orders of magnitude smaller then the pressure delta that can be generated at 70-80 mph. And of course a radiator relies on air flow across the core for heat transfer to occur via convection.

hatchbox90 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:56:54 PM »

get rid of the ghetto lean, doesnt allow air to circulate well when its like that

opt for a new radiator setup

t_cel_t · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:03:42 PM »

just my uneducated thinking here but how does 700hp worth of heat get dissipated out of that tiny radiator?
i haven't done the math or anything but from being around v8 powered trucks and shit their radiators are like 4 times the size of that half core and usually thicker.

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:05:09 PM »

you ever think that the intercooler was blocking air to get into the engine bay, and that turbo hot side could be just heating up that small ass radiator (that is prob doing very little with such a high hp setup) like a mofo, i would go oil cooler and water meth injection but what do i know im a nooooblet

Teg2boo · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:08:52 PM »

Quote from: Cooljnateman on October 28, 2009, 11:05:09 PM

what do i know im a nooooblet

Cooljnateman · « **Reply #7 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:10:57 PM »

Quote from: Teg2boo on October 28, 2009, 11:08:52 PM

Quote from: Cooljnateman on October 28, 2009, 11:05:09 PM
what do i know im a nooooblet

?

dvst8r · « **Reply #8 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:11:31 PM »

Quote from: t_cel_t on October 28, 2009, 11:03:42 PM

just my uneducated thinking here but how does 700hp worth of heat get dissipated out of that tiny radiator?
i haven't done the math or anything but from being around v8 powered trucks and shit their radiators are like 4 times the size of that half core and usually thicker.

Doesn't really make 700hp when he is driving around in stop and go traffic for 20min as it says in the original post.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:12:16 PM »

The rate of heat needing to be rejected is proportional to the power he making. If he's cruising around the city normal driving he does not need to reject much heat as he's not making much power during steady state cruise.

My miata used to overheat above 55mph in cruise. I one day put a 220V squirel cage blower in the front bumper and then looked to see where air was going. It was going everywher BUT though the radiator. I then spent a few hours adding shrouding and weatherstripping so that air entering the bumper had only one path out; through the radiator. Put the fan back in the bumper and airflow through the radiator went up 5-6 fold. And now it doesn't overheat.

dvst8r · « **Reply #10 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:18:24 PM »

Quote from: Cooljnateman on October 28, 2009, 11:05:09 PM

you ever think that the intercooler was blocking air to get into the engine bay, and that turbo hot side could be just heating up that small ass radiator (that is prob doing very little with such a high hp setup) like a mofo, i would go oil cooler and water meth injection but what do i know im a nooooblet

You are a nooblet.

We all realize that the big intercooler is blocking air flow, and as such we are coming up with ideas to increase the cooling capacity and efficiency of the system, hence the whole point of this thread.

With the manifold and hot side coated inside and and out, and then with heat wrap, you can keep your hand on the heat wrapped parts while the car is running. Does it still contribute to the problem? Yes, but not nearly as much as you think, and there is not much more that can be done, maybe a turbo blanket. The solution will come from as mentioned a good fan, and fan shroud, an oil cooler, and probably the electric water pump, but that is more of a track benefit.

Minor Threat · « **Reply #11 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:21:44 PM »

Ok, so you know your answers, now get to it!

d112crzy · « **Reply #12 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:26:30 PM »

What type of fan do you have? HOw many cfm's? Some of the ebay fans don't actually push/pull as much air as they advertise.

Either way, I'd make a shroud and get a quality fan.

Corey · « **Reply #13 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:31:58 PM »

build a new downpipe so you can position the radiator in the stock configuration. run a gutted tstat. wire your fan for constant run.

if that doesnt help you have other issues.

DmC · « **Reply #14 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:35:48 PM »

Quote from: d112crzy on October 28, 2009, 11:26:30 PM

What type of fan do you have? HOw many cfm's? Some of the ebay fans don't actually push/pull as much air as they advertise.

Either way, I'd make a shroud and get a quality fan.

mercedes 300d's come stock with a good sized slim fan. You can find them in junk yards fairly often.

Minor Threat · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:37:12 PM »

Also, I've had zero luck with the thick aluminum rads on anything with a FMIC. They allow even less air thru them than a stocker.

xsenceo89x · « **Reply #16 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:49:59 PM »

The sideways radiator and no air going into the engine bay with that big intercooler arent helping. Put the heat on inside the car when you drive around. Take out that thermostat so the coolant doesnt have any restrictions. You can try that coolant that doesnt get hot but it probably doesnt work. Get a thicker radiator or a better fan

patsmx5 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:52:26 PM »

Quote from: Minor Threat on October 28, 2009, 11:37:12 PM

Also, I've had zero luck with the thick aluminum rads on anything with a FMIC. They allow even less air thru them than a stocker.

That's because a lack of airflow was the root problem.

Kain · « **Reply #18 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:18:21 AM »

ditch the inter cooler and go with chemical inter cooling.

snm95ls · « **Reply #19 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:34:16 AM »

Here is my .02.

Coolant mixture needs to be at 50/50. Water is a great at absorbing large amounts of heat energy whereas antifreeze is not so great at it. Also the trick of adding a drop or tow of dish soap to lower surface tension might help with thermal transfer.

The fan needs to create a decent enough pressure differential across the radiator in order for it to dissipate the thermal energy absorbed by the coolant effectively. Is the fan pulling as it should?

I am going to assume that with as large as that intercooler is that it is also pretty thick. That fucker is blocking the easy path for air to reach the radiator, thus reducing the effectiveness of the fan/radiator combo.

I see that you have used thermal wrap on the down pipe and the manifold itself, so I kind of doubt that those are contributing much to the problem.

I agree on the addition of an oil cooler. With oil going though that giant ass heat sink called a center section, I am sure your oil temps are a it nutty. The only problem is, you already have enough shit blocking airflow to the radiator as is. and adding a OEM type oil cooler might overload the cooling system even more.

Some of this crap is nooblet stuff, but easy to overlook.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #20 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:35:40 AM »

So have you figured out that that monstrosity of a FMIC isnt neccessary yet?

Anyways. I vote shroud and water wetter. FAL fan, and youre good

NO antifreeze if you can help it water dissapates heat alot better.

Urban Indian · « **Reply #21 on:** October 29, 2009, 04:26:47 AM »

mix is straight water with a little splash of coolant.

I am going to get a shroud and I am thinking about the oil cooler idea but the oil cooler can go right infront of the manifold.

The other problem is that the downpipe is too large and it hits the rad

The downpipe also hits the slave cylinder bleeder screw, is there any slaves that the bleeder screw doesnt poke out towards the drivers side of the car? maybe up or down?

hotrex · « **Reply #22 on:** October 29, 2009, 05:01:28 AM »

Quote from: Corey on October 28, 2009, 11:31:58 PM

build a new downpipe so you can position the radiator in the stock configuration. run a gutted tstat. wire your fan for constant run.

if that doesnt help you have other issues.

+1

ktown powder coating · « **Reply #23 on:** October 29, 2009, 06:56:40 AM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on October 28, 2009, 10:40:12 PM

Anything flows from high to low. Temp, pressure, voltage, you name it.

By looking at that picture, I'm going to say you need to work out shrouding. The heat exchangers rely on the flow of air into the bumper and shrouding to build an area of high pressure in-front of the heat exchanger. No pressure delta, no airflow. The pressure delta the fan generates is a couple orders of magnitude smaller then the pressure delta that can be generated at 70-80 mph. And of course a radiator relies on air flow across the core for heat transfer to occur via convection.

I agree with this 100%.... you need to box in around the rad and build a pickup tube for air from the bumper.

rudebwoy · « **Reply #24 on:** October 29, 2009, 07:36:09 AM »

1. the radiator mounting, if you cannot change that you need to seal that hole on top between the radiator and the support, I did this on my old couple helped a lot.

2. 2 fans will work, but you still need to seal it off so the wont pull any hot air from the engine bay.

3. shroud, plus refer to my first tip.

3. intercooler end tanks too big, get a normal one. you can still have a bid intercooler with small end tanks.

4.electric water pump is unnecessary.

5. downpipe change the angle to allow more clearance.

6. EG front end does not allow much clearance between the radiator and the intercooler, I noticed this after I change cars using the same setup my EK never overheats.

7 engine oil cooler.

8. I use the intercooler sprayer but only the track, and is only setup for boosting, your cooling problem is stop and go traffic.

9. water/methol injection, only setup for boost.

I did most of these and they worked.

97Econobox · « **Reply #25 on:** October 29, 2009, 08:30:42 AM »

Why not sell teh IC and get something more practical and then use one of those Sirrocco Radiatorrs like 88 or 90 dx did or whomever and slip it under teh rad support. No gansta lean and you can have an IC that isnt morbidly obease.

88dx · « **Reply #26 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:37:05 PM »

Quote from: danwjmu on October 29, 2009, 09:21:43 AM

For the time being take the thermostat out.

Yep thats going to help

marcj · « **Reply #27 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:40:51 PM »

there is nothing left to say here

rudebwoy · « **Reply #28 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:59:28 PM »

eventually the whole coolant will be hot,
taking out the thermostat serves no good purpose, why do you think its in there?
reason is to seperate the hot coolant from the radiator while the radiator get cool, then when opens up when the coolant in the engine gets to hot to exchange it, driving on the highway for hours with the thermostat out would still overheats.

88dx · « **Reply #29 on:** October 29, 2009, 01:13:54 PM »

U dont get it. Lack of Air flow is his issue, taking the T-stat out isnt going to help. If you take the T-stat out coolant is just going to flow faster threw a Hot radiator.

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Author Topic: Cooling Issues (Read 29520 times)