YOure way overcomplicating things with your oven wants... I get what youre saying, but its not needed
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Now keep in mind, I have not installed 23 cages like Random hero has, but I have installed a number of them, both with pre bent main hoops (Comp engineering style), as well as starting with just sticks and a JD2 Model 3 bender. I have also done exo cages, and back halves on rock crawlers, traction bars for diesel pullers, 4 link suspension setups, c notch's, frame extensions, ect... There is a reason I have $10K in welders and shit at home despite the fact I haven't welded for money in years. I only weld as a hobby now, and I don't charge anything for my work.
I guess the big difference between you and me is, I personally have had a major cromo failure at the weld from the HAZ being brittle. The long arm on my 4 link suspension (toyota back halved rock crawler) where it was welded to the RE joint, after that I would never trust a cromo cage that hasn't been normalized. Now this is MY only personal experience with cromo failure, I have seen in person with my own eyes a number of shock mounts and some other suspension pieces crack or break right off on desert trucks (sportsman, 7s, and one 5-1600 bug) cromo has a fatigue life, and is brittle in the haz area without normalization. There is a reason that NASCAR and a number of other racing organizations spec 1020 DOM, and not chrome moly.
So as far as my wants, I am more then happy with 1020 DOM for cages, and that is all I will install or use myself. I will leave the 4130, 4340, 300m ect... for things like axle shafts.
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Sorry for the hi jack... Random hero, the cage looks great, despite the gay fuzzy pictures, still wondering if you had to drop it to weld the A's to the Halo, or if you popped the windshield out, or...?