Topic: Ceramic coating. (Read 7823 times)

mandrel-bends · « **Reply #30 on:** December 27, 2009, 03:05:32 AM »

If you have a coating business you can buy it direct from techline. Good stuff been applying their coatings for years. Getting the polished ceramic-krome to look right is a bitch.

ktown powder coating · « **Reply #31 on:** December 27, 2009, 05:47:45 AM »

Quote from: SecksyPeePee on December 26, 2009, 09:45:27 PM

i have been powercoating for years and have considered giving it a shot.

any chance you would tell me where you get it?

Check out http://www.powderbuythepound.com/catalog/ best company I have delt with for powder and ceramic.

SgtB · « **Reply #32 on:** December 27, 2009, 01:37:20 PM »

What's everyone's thoughts on coating a mild steel manifold inside and out as far as longevity? Will it hold up, or is it merely a performance mod?

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #33 on:** December 27, 2009, 01:39:38 PM »

I have no personal experience with a professional coated manifold but i would think coating the inside would be a bad idea.

SgtB · « **Reply #34 on:** December 27, 2009, 01:43:53 PM »

Why? Pieces chipping off?

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #35 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:00:48 PM »

Yeah turbo spinning 100k rpm and some chunks of coating hitting it sounds bad.

SgtB · « **Reply #36 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:02:28 PM »

Good point, but I wonder how likely that is? I know coating the inside is done quite a bit.

Foowee · « **Reply #37 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:16:09 PM »

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 27, 2009, 01:39:38 PM

I have no personal experience with a professional coated manifold but i would think coating the inside would be a bad idea.

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 27, 2009, 02:00:48 PM

Yeah turbo spinning 100k rpm and some chunks of coating hitting it sounds bad.

I have personal experience w/diy stuff from Techline... Think about it. Where do you want the heat? Not in the metal. As you raise the temperature of the metal the weaker/softer it becomes.

So yeah, let's coat the outside and hold the heat in the metal... wrong idea folks...

I coated the piston crowns, valves, and exhaust ports of my vitara slugged a6 w/cbc1. My engine has probably 4/5000 miles and 20+ 12second passes on it. And guess what, I've used the same turbine wheel the whole time.

Prep is key to make the stuff stick. When the instructions say to blast the part w/120grit aluminum oxide before spraying. What is one to do? pay attention... The chemical engineers didn't write that shit down just to nag you with something that's a pita.

So yeah if you're gonna coat the outside for looks, go ahead and coat the inside for performance too...

SgtB · « **Reply #38 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:23:43 PM »

Thank you Sir. I'm trying to keep my under hood temps down, and the manifold from rusting apart. it's going to be on a front mount S2000 manifold that I only want to build once. What's the curing temperature for that stuff? I didn't figure it was that fragile, but it's hard to weed through all the marketing online.

Foowee · « **Reply #39 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:29:27 PM »

I don't remember the baking temp or time off the top of my head. I'll have to see if I still have the instructions/packaging later. I do remember that we did it in a home oven. So it wasn't too high of a temp.

Also I don't have any experience w/their header/manifold coating products, so I can't tell ya how their gonna hold up.

You could cut some sweet holes in your hood like that guy Jeff w/the t1 s2k from hell...

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #40 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:33:39 PM »

Quote from: Foowee on December 27, 2009, 02:16:09 PM

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 27, 2009, 01:39:38 PM
I have no personal experience with a professional coated manifold but i would think coating the inside would be a bad idea.

Quote from: turbob16hatch on December 27, 2009, 02:00:48 PM
Yeah turbo spinning 100k rpm and some chunks of coating hitting it sounds bad.

I have personal experience w/diy stuff from Techline... Think about it. Where do you want the heat? Not in the metal. As you raise the temperature of the metal the weaker/softer it becomes.

So yeah, let's coat the outside and hold the heat in the metal... wrong idea folks...

I coated the piston crowns, valves, and exhaust ports of my vitara slugged a6 w/cbc1. My engine has probably 4/5000 miles and 20+ 12second passes on it. And guess what, I've used the same turbine wheel the whole time.

Prep is key to make the stuff stick. When the instructions say to blast the part w/120grit aluminum oxide before spraying. What is one to do? pay attention... The chemical engineers didn't write that shit down just to nag you with something that's a pita.

So yeah if you're gonna coat the outside for looks, go ahead and coat the inside for performance too...

hold on there chief, i did put a disclaimer. No need to go off.

i understand how coatings work, just never had first hand experience. I would love to talk to you about the vitara a6 and coatings. expect a pm soon.

Foowee · « **Reply #41 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:37:30 PM »

I didn't intend to sound like I was going off. Just trying to get the facts straight...

SgtB · « **Reply #42 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:41:31 PM »

The temp rating on the DIY stuff is what I'm wondering about. I don't know if it changes composition while curing to handle more heat, or if it's just not designed to go that high. No matter, I was mostly worried about longevity of the part over what process is used. Thanks guys.

92CXyD · « **Reply #43 on:** December 27, 2009, 04:48:33 PM »

Techline link for internal engine coating :
http://www.techlinecoatingswebstore.com/Products-Internal_Coatings.html

SgtB · « **Reply #44 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:36:18 PM »

Well that answers the temperature question!

gooseman · « **Reply #45 on:** January 04, 2010, 06:05:06 PM »

I recently coated my HF manifold and adapter plate in the 1200* ceramic that they sell at Autozone. How does this compair to powder coat ceramic?

I haven't got the turbo kit on yet. I just need some charge piping.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #46 on:** January 04, 2010, 07:03:21 PM »

1200Â° is probably not enough. let us know though

90dx · « **Reply #47 on:** January 04, 2010, 07:28:30 PM »

If the ceramic coating was properly done i don't see any peeling off and mild steel would be more reliable than SS once coated to prevent corrosion.

ktown powder coating · « **Reply #48 on:** January 04, 2010, 07:52:13 PM »

High temp powder is good to 1200F but ceramic is not powder and most of it is good to 2000F.

gooseman · « **Reply #49 on:** January 04, 2010, 08:12:06 PM »

My bad. I mixed these up. The paint for my calipers was 1200* The stuff I used on my manifold was only for 500* but has ceramic.

googled a pic of the can since im to lazy to go take on.

sfa22r · « **Reply #50 on:** January 04, 2010, 10:34:16 PM »

How much for a set of motorcycle wheels?

notfastcrx · « **Reply #51 on:** January 04, 2010, 10:49:55 PM »

Quote from: sfa22r on January 04, 2010, 10:34:16 PM

How much for a set of motorcycle wheels?

the thing about big stuff is, you probably would be better off buying new ones in the color you want. the price for a car wheel is about $40 just to coat it. not including stripping it and labor. a rough estimate would be $150 plus shipping for two bike wheels. so its pretty much only worth it if ur local.

sfa22r · « **Reply #52 on:** January 04, 2010, 11:23:33 PM »

Red Marchesini's are hard to find

notfastcrx · « **Reply #53 on:** January 04, 2010, 11:49:40 PM »

if ur willing to spend a couple hundred, then lets talk.

ryan89crx · « **Reply #54 on:** January 04, 2010, 11:50:55 PM »

Quote from: gooseman on January 04, 2010, 08:12:06 PM

The stuff I used on my manifold was only for 500* but has ceramic.

googled a pic of the can since im to lazy to go take on.

That shit is going to burn and flake off in no time

HiProfile · « **Reply #55 on:** January 05, 2010, 07:08:57 AM »

I used that same Duplicolor shit on my sbc 350, and it hasn't held up any better than any other paint. As for the black I put on my turbo, it's turned white and rusty with zero temp reduction. However, its stayed perfectly black on the sub-500F parts like my DP and dump tube. Now that I think of it, maybe the DP paint was that 1200F grill stuff from homeless depot.

Roger McDaniels has experience with Techline stuff, he did a DIY on Honda-tech, rmcdaniels should be the name. Their old website had more info on it, the new site seems to be all jumbled still. As far as temp, it apparently keeps it's color to at LEAST 1600F (that's metal surface temp, not EGT's), and stays intact until 2000F. If you can do that on a gasoline motor, you're doing something wrong - or really really right.

http://www.techlinecoatingswebstore.com/Exhaust_Coatings-Exhaust_Coating_Black_Satin_Header_Coating.html

Quote from: Joseph Davis on December 26, 2009, 11:40:54 PM

I need pics of your ground bar before I can say. *wink*

Fun-ee. I dare someone to sig that quote, completely out of context.

97Econobox · « **Reply #56 on:** January 05, 2010, 09:57:33 AM »

This is Yoseph Davids we are speaking of.

That is the context in which he meant it.

Yoseph Davids <3 Boy pussy. True Story.

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Author Topic: Ceramic coating. (Read 7823 times)

gooseman

90dx

gooseman

sfa22r

sfa22r