Topic: my bad day (Read 7576 times)

drivin96 · « **on:** October 28, 2009, 12:00:16 AM »

so i was drivin home from class and as i was drivin over the bridge my car started to sputter a lil ...i was like what the fuck ...car had like no aceleration at all got it to the bottem where my house was and parked it ...was still sputterin ...had a buddy say it was a poss head gasket so started pullin shit off ...got the head off and set it aside gasket looked semi good and i was gettin anoyed at the fact that this could not be the prob ..so i flipped over the head and found ......

so i got another y8 head off a friend of min eand gunna put it on this weekend ...but does anyone know why the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 would have all that white corrosion on them ... im thinkin i could be runnin rich

p.s. block and pistons are fine but the pieces of the valves are mia ...thinkin there in my turbo or got fully shot out the exhaust

DmC · « **Reply #1 on:** October 28, 2009, 04:10:59 AM »

Man thats just buildup of hydrocarbons from unleaded fuel on the face of those valves. Itâ€™s no big deal. Most high mileage motors that you crack open have all the exhaust valves looking like that. It's actually kind of a, or could be a sign that that was the cylinder that was running the best. #3 and #1 were running good. IMO even without the torched valves in #2 and #4 they were running richer.
Don't worry about finding the pieces of the burned valves they got vaporized from the edge in they didn't just break off. I'd say you just had a really bad tune.
Y8's are really tough to tune imo the hardest Honda engine to get right. When you put the other head on it's only going to do it again. If you don't take care of the cause
Youâ€™re going to need to tune it again. If I were you and Iâ€™m talking from my own experiences with y8's and z6's. Do yourself a favor and get a z6 head. Z6's are way more boost friendly Y8's have quench pads for higher compression this is not a good combustion chamber design for a turbo engine. They were purposely designed to run well at part throttle na. wich really goes against what you need for boost

If you do run another y8 head just make sure to take lots of timing out of it. They love detonation.
Y8's have a bad oiling system they have lots of gayness with the cam gear you have to add 9 degrees to base timing to get them to run correctly on an obd1 ecu and the intake manifold is junk.
LOL on my crx I ditched the y8 intake manifold for an a6 one a6's have a way smaller throttle body so I took a drill and drilled out the bolt holes on some way larger random Honda TB it didn't line up with the a6 IM and bolted it on.
blah blah I'm typing to much but what I'm saying is ditch the y8 top of the motor and run a z6 it will make more power be more reliable and you won't have to deal with Y8 bullshit like youâ€™re in now any more. Y8's they will fuck you at every angle

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #2 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:24:42 PM »

Fucking oil burner right there, those exhaust valves were getting hot and baking it on.

92CXyD · « **Reply #3 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:28:46 PM »

Quote from: DmC on October 28, 2009, 04:10:59 AM

Man thats just buildup of hydrocarbons from unleaded fuel on the face of those valves. It’s no big deal. Most high mileage motors that you crack open have all the exhaust valves looking like that. It's actually kind of a, or could be a sign that that was the cylinder that was running the best. #3 and #1 were running good. IMO even without the torched valves in #2 and #4 they were running richer.
Don't worry about finding the pieces of the burned valves they got vaporized from the edge in they didn't just break off. I'd say you just had a really bad tune.
Y8's are really tough to tune imo the hardest Honda engine to get right. When you put the other head on it's only going to do it again. If you don't take care of the cause
You’re going to need to tune it again. If I were you and I’m talking from my own experiences with y8's and z6's. Do yourself a favor and get a z6 head. Z6's are way more boost friendly Y8's have quench pads for higher compression this is not a good combustion chamber design for a turbo engine. They were purposely designed to run well at part throttle na. wich really goes against what you need for boost

If you do run another y8 head just make sure to take lots of timing out of it. They love detonation.
Y8's have a bad oiling system they have lots of gayness with the cam gear you have to add 9 degrees to base timing to get them to run correctly on an obd1 ecu and the intake manifold is junk.
LOL on my crx I ditched the y8 intake manifold for an a6 one a6's have a way smaller throttle body so I took a drill and drilled out the bolt holes on some way larger random Honda TB it didn't line up with the a6 IM and bolted it on.
blah blah I'm typing to much but what I'm saying is ditch the y8 top of the motor and run a z6 it will make more power be more reliable and you won't have to deal with Y8 bullshit like you’re in now any more. Y8's they will fuck you at every angle

Does the quench area issue apply if I'm running vitaras at 8:1 comp (deck 0.020" of block)?

Does the oil issue apply if I'm running z6 block with a ported and shimmed z6 pump.?

DmC · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:34:39 PM »

No the vitara's and z6 block take most of the problems away. I still say get a z6 head though.

snm95ls · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:35:55 PM »

Waiting for JD's rant...

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:37:30 PM »

No rant. I transferred this baby to Chris' forum so he could mother hen it.

92CXyD · « **Reply #7 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:40:56 PM »

Quote from: DmC on October 28, 2009, 01:34:39 PM

No the vitara's and z6 block take most of the problems away. I still say get a z6 head though.

Yeah I have 3 z6 head either whole or for parts but I ported my y8 head and matched to z6 IM.
So I do not feel like lowering my comp. any further right now.
;D

Towdogg · « **Reply #8 on:** October 28, 2009, 01:47:32 PM »

This guy is one of my under dogs......

He will be taken care of A.S.A.P.....

BTW....Do Y7 valves fit the Y8 head??? I'm pretty sure they do just want someome else to agreed...

drivin96 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2009, 06:46:44 PM »

yea i would like to do the z6 head but lack the time or money ...the new y8 will work for now till i can do somethin better , between school and work i honestly have no time to work on this thing and this is my daily so i need to get it up and runnin .... but where i went wrong was in allot of places ,it wasnt tuned , didnt have a dump tube on the wg (so it was dumpin shit into my turbo) and i was runnin a stock cat .... if everythin goes to plan it will be back on the road this sunday weather permitting and have a dump tube and straight pipe soon after and then i some how have to get some cash together to tune it before this shit happens again and im stuck in my dads pedo van again ....( i drive a mercury villager mini van when i have car issues)

DmC · « **Reply #10 on:** October 28, 2009, 11:21:48 PM »

I'll see if I have my stock y8 450cc boost tune around somewhere before I went GM 2bar.

drivin96 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:07:32 AM »

a budy of mine has a z6 head so im gunna try and get my hands on it

88dx · « **Reply #12 on:** October 29, 2009, 03:54:30 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on October 28, 2009, 01:24:42 PM

Fucking oil burner right there, those exhaust valves were getting hot and baking it on.

drivin96 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 29, 2009, 10:57:07 AM »

so if i was to do a z6 head would i have to do anythin different ? head bold torque, dizzy ect....

92CXyD · « **Reply #14 on:** October 29, 2009, 11:02:26 AM »

Quote from: drivin96 on October 29, 2009, 10:57:07 AM

so if i was to do a z6 head would i have to do anythin different ? head bold torque, dizzy ect....

Use a z6 dizzy, one head stud is different (in the corner nearest to the vtec solenoid), and cam timing if you are still using the y8 crank pulley and a z6 cam/gear setup.

drivin96 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 29, 2009, 03:49:41 PM »

Quote from: 92CXyD on October 29, 2009, 11:02:26 AM

Quote from: drivin96 on October 29, 2009, 10:57:07 AM
so if i was to do a z6 head would i have to do anythin different ? head bold torque, dizzy ect....

Use a z6 dizzy, one head stud is different (in the corner nearest to the vtec solenoid), and cam timing if you are still using the y8 crank pulley and a z6 cam/gear setup.

so the one head stud i need to grab off a z6? and the timing would that just be a normal timing or is it gunna be off a few degrese?

also picked up the z6 head today ...if any one has done this before let me know if there were any issues u ran into so i can prepare myself ...i want to get this done in one day so i got from now till sunday to get everythin i need ...thanks

DmC · « **Reply #16 on:** October 29, 2009, 11:29:11 PM »

I did it in one day on mine I don't think I had any issues. the head studs were all same I meen all I had were y8 studs and it all just went together fine. oh no it didn't I had to do one helicoil. I used a y8 ditributor I just drilled it out so it would bolt in I used a timing light and just kept grinding the holes out farther until it came into time.

highroller54 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 31, 2009, 11:47:36 PM »

Quote from: 88dx on October 29, 2009, 03:54:30 AM

Quote from: Joseph Davis on October 28, 2009, 01:24:42 PM
Fucking oil burner right there, those exhaust valves were getting hot and baking it on.

drivin96 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 01, 2009, 09:05:50 PM »

well ended up doin the y8 head ( the z6 head i got had issues and i need this on the road like now ) got it on today now just havin massive probs with the timing .... gave up for the day should have an update on wed or friday

HiProfile · « **Reply #19 on:** November 05, 2009, 10:57:06 AM »

I'm assuming you used the z6 crank pulley and z6 t-belt gear? IIRC the mark on the y8 pulley will be for 12*, and the y8 gear will also be 4* or so off. IMO it's just easier to deal with those "hybrid" d16's if you use the corresponding pulley & gear.

You could probably use the z6 gear and sync timing to 12* (whatever the main mark is), then add 4* in that part of the map so idle doesn't suffer. Honestly though, I just stay as far away from y7-y8 parts as I can.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #20 on:** November 05, 2009, 02:05:51 PM »

That results in cam timing being a half tooth off.

Cam gear should match cam (NOT head, as you can swap Y8 cams into Z6), crank pulley should match block AND lower timing cover.

92CXyD · « **Reply #21 on:** November 05, 2009, 02:12:41 PM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on November 05, 2009, 02:05:51 PM

That results in cam timing being a half tooth off.

Cam gear should match cam (NOT head, as you can swap Y8 cams into Z6), crank pulley should match block AND lower timing cover.

Or get a adj. cam gear when using a y8 head/cam on a z6 block and adv. 4.5 deg. on the gear.

Worked for me ;D

DmC · « **Reply #22 on:** November 05, 2009, 02:16:28 PM »

As Joseph told me last winter an advance timing light will tell you everything you need to know.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #23 on:** November 06, 2009, 09:46:24 PM »

Robb · « **Reply #24 on:** November 06, 2009, 09:56:14 PM »

Burned valves are a form of awesome in their own right.

Fuck yeah. Give it hell.

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Author Topic: my bad day (Read 7576 times)