:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: 92CXyD on February 13, 2010, 01:31:54 PM
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Are these things worth it?
Can they be made as a DIY kit?
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what are u talking about ???
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what are u talking about ???
Voltage stabilizer suppose to make sure all you has a constant 12 volts with little variance above or below 12 volts.
And boost a pump ups the voltage 12 to 22v to fuel pump when boost goes from 0 to 30 psig.
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sounds gimicky to me. adding a few well placed grounds and running heavier wire to the pump seems like plenty to me. my walbro 255 in my eg coupe with 100% stock wiring was plenty for 500+whp. how much more do you need?
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sounds gimicky to me. adding a few well placed grounds and running heavier wire to the pump seems like plenty to me. my walbro 255 in my eg coupe with 100% stock wiring was plenty for 500+whp. how much more do you need?
400whp or more making my Twincharge d16z6/y8 more reliable trying to complete build by April 1.
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boost a pumps work.
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boost a pumps work.
I was thinking of buying a non-adjustable on egay for $45 shipped but I was thinking since they are that cheap that maybe there is a way of fabbing one up.
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Voltage stabilizers are snake oil.
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Voltage stabilizers are snake oil.
That is what I was wondering b/c I see tons of magazine build stories mentioning the use of this stabilizer.
But since they always in these builds and even D-sport and TPR did a comparison of these I wondered if there was really any benefit?
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seen alot of boosta pumps on Cobras was wandering about having 1 work with a honda but got lazy and never looked into it.
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Anything critical has it's own regulated power supply circuit internally, and everything else is a decent ground system.
Boost-a-pumps do work, but when a Walbro 255HP with upgraded wiring is good for 640+ whp, and a second Walbro is super cheap, who fucking cares?
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if you run a certain gauge wire, a certain distance it will drop the same volts if you draw the same amount of current. if you drop one or two volts on the way to the pump in back of the car thats just life. you'll still loose that one or two volts if its running at 12v or 22v and drawing the same current (which its not), but at 22v its not as big a deal.
solution: relocate battery, install relay, stop worrying about it...
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if you run a certain gauge wire, a certain distance it will drop the same volts if you draw the same amount of current. if you drop one or two volts on the way to the pump in back of the car thats just life. you'll still loose that one or two volts if its running at 12v or 22v and drawing the same current (which its not), but at 22v its not as big a deal.
That's your theory, but you've zero experience with how it works in the real world; 18 gauge wire and unibody as ground path doesn't work well.
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we use the KB boost-a-pumps on lots of cars that we do. simple and cheap fix for engines that lean out up top.
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solution: relocate battery, install relay, stop worrying about it...
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When the alternator is the power source, and the engine block ground, you need to worry about it.
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boost a pumps work.
I was thinking of buying a non-adjustable on egay for $45 shipped but I was thinking since they are that cheap that maybe there is a way of fabbing one up.
look up some circuit designs for the average car laptop charger. they put out ~20V at 5A from a 12v automotive electrical system. they draw ~(5*20)/12A as input current, since they're just a small stepup xformer, but the idea is the same as the boost a pump.
here's an example: http://apexology.com/files/voltagebooster.pdf (http://apexology.com/files/voltagebooster.pdf) 19V/5A. change component values to get the necessary current to drive the pump. possibly run multiple output stages in parallel.
fuel pump is a positive displacement pump. flow is directly related to shaft speed, and shaft speed is directly related to voltage, and inversely related to operating pressure.
edit: fixed my retard math.
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boost a pumps work.
I was thinking of buying a non-adjustable on egay for $45 shipped but I was thinking since they are that cheap that maybe there is a way of fabbing one up.
look up some circuit designs for the average car laptop charger. they put out ~20V at 5A from a 12v automotive electrical system. they draw ~(5*12)/20A as input current, since they're just a small stepup xformer, but the idea is the same as the boost a pump.
here's an example: http://apexology.com/files/voltagebooster.pdf (http://apexology.com/files/voltagebooster.pdf) 19V/5A. change component values to get the necessary current to drive the pump. possibly run multiple output stages in parallel.
fuel pump is a positive displacement pump. flow is directly related to shaft speed, and shaft speed is directly related to voltage, and inversely related to operating pressure.
Nice I'll check this out. ;D
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Heavy positive to a relay close to pump, positive from relay to pump, heavy ground back to block. Use the stock wire to energize the relay's coil. Figure out the amp draw and voltage you want and then figure out what gauge wire you need. Voltage drop is important. Use a fuse.
My walbro used to change pitch with my blinker. >:(
The bigger the wire the less drop you'll see, but you'll hit diminishing returns going too big.
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My walbro used to change pitch with my blinker. >:(
That, and gurgling instead of humming when you cycle the key are sure signs that your shit is stock and therefore inadequate.
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10 gauge front to back.
My Trex inline came with 8, relay, etc, etc.
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My walbro used to change pitch with my blinker. >:(
That, and gurgling instead of humming when you cycle the key are sure signs that your shit is stock and therefore inadequate.
Yep. It was quickly replaced.
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Voltage stabilizers are snake oil.
That is what I was wondering b/c I see tons of magazine build stories mentioning the use of this stabilizer.
You realize "magazine builds" get that shit for free, or just for an extra sticker to go between "Injen" and "OBX"...
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Voltage stabilizers are snake oil.
That is what I was wondering b/c I see tons of magazine build stories mentioning the use of this stabilizer.
You realize "magazine builds" get that shit for free, or just for an extra sticker to go between "Injen" and "OBX"...
Yeah I figured as much.
I remember TPR doing a comparison article about the voltage stabilizer.
They also did an article on different performance fuel pumps and comparing them to Supra and Integra stock pumps.
They should the Supra TT pump putting out more fuel the the performance pumps.
And they should that if you hooked up the Supra TT pump to 16v that it would flow more than 700hp worth of fuel. ;D
I need to find a way to get e-copies of these articles from TPR there was some interesting reading. :yes:
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I need to find a way to get e-copies of these articles from TPR there was some interesting reading. :yes:
I would love to see that. Either borrow a high-res camera or scanner (best), then let imageshack.us do the rest.
I recall an old test comparing a Walbro 255HP and DOHC VTEC's fuel pump, and those pumps will flow enough for ~350whp if you have good wiring. I was thinking at some point of doing two of them - more fuel than a walbro with half the noise.
BTW stealth316.com has a bunch of info on diff fuel pumps, and some tested at higher voltage. I know the 300zx will run the pump at 6 volts until it hits moderate load.
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more fuel than a walbro with half the noise.
i never understood all of the talk about walbro's being loud. i dont have any carpet, i have an itr muffler and i dont hear mine
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Mine is 12" from my head. It's loud at idle, but once I get moving I can't hear it. I don't understand the gripes either.
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I need to find a way to get e-copies of these articles from TPR there was some interesting reading. :yes:
I would love to see that. Either borrow a high-res camera or scanner (best), then let imageshack.us do the rest.
I recall an old test comparing a Walbro 255HP and DOHC VTEC's fuel pump, and those pumps will flow enough for ~350whp if you have good wiring. I was thinking at some point of doing two of them - more fuel than a walbro with half the noise.
BTW stealth316.com has a bunch of info on diff fuel pumps, and some tested at higher voltage. I know the 300zx will run the pump at 6 volts until it hits moderate load.
I'll try to scan the article from my copies of TPR later this week. I have to find them first.
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i have teh DSport ones... but basically just say what has been said here.
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I know the 300zx will run the pump at 6 volts until it hits moderate load.
a lot of toyotas do that too. MR2 and supra have a resistor pack that drops the FP voltage until you hit boost. if it fails, it fails in full power mode, but my guess was to prevent overrunning the FPR. newer cars just have a PWM controller that drives the pump proportional to load. no fuel pressure regulator at all, just a manifold referenced fuel pressure sensor to tell the pump controller when it needs to up/down the duty cycle.
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Hmmmm. That's an easy circuit.
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that's what i thought too.
a differential amplifier with fuel pressure as the inverting input and a fuel pressure set point reference as non-inverting input would output a signal that would drive an average PWM controller well enough to maintain pressure under any circumstances. 5bar manifold-referenced fuel pressure sensors are available for most any late model ford (i got one from a focus for $10). datasheet here: http://rb-aa.bosch.com/boaasocs/;jsessionid=FED68DE6DCCDAC13A3E24B48FDD6F7A3.sundoro?template=page_product.vm&ccat_id=97&prod_id=564&lang=en (http://rb-aa.bosch.com/boaasocs/;jsessionid=FED68DE6DCCDAC13A3E24B48FDD6F7A3.sundoro?template=page_product.vm&ccat_id=97&prod_id=564&lang=en)
i had looked into this circuit: http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/escboth.html (http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/escboth.html)
simple, compact, very low on-resistance and pretty cheap depending on which FETs you use. my only concern lies in the uncertainty of the reliability of the shit that i design. it would put a lot less stress on the fuel pump, as well as keeping the fuel/pump cooler. no reason you couldn't run it off a higher voltage too, like 20v or something.
the other advantage is you could ramp fuel pressure with boost- like, add 3psi fuel per lb of boost like a rising rate regulator to give more topend fuel flow on more moderately sized injectors. the 044 pumps can handle the pressure.
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I was thinking a PIC, a pressure sensor, and some FET's. Do the rest in code.
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the arduino is my new weapon of choice for this stuff. i think using pwm.out, and two of the six analog inputs, you could do this with just a few lines of code. you could even add some potentiometers to the extra analog inputs, that way you could tune things around how you want.
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the arduino is my new weapon of choice for this stuff. i think using pwm.out, and two of the six analog inputs, you could do this with just a few lines of code. you could even add some potentiometers to the extra analog inputs, that way you could tune things around how you want.
I was considering doing this with one of my older basic stamp boards I have laying around. I gotta pick up an arduino to fuck with.
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the arduino is my new weapon of choice for this stuff. i think using pwm.out, and two of the six analog inputs, you could do this with just a few lines of code. you could even add some potentiometers to the extra analog inputs, that way you could tune things around how you want.
Haven't played with Arduino yet. I usually use a cheapo picaxe for simple slow stuff. I'm looking to mess with ARM. A X2 picaxe at 40mhz would be plenty of power for this. You could even do a look-up table with rpm reference, etc. Write a simple comm protocol and you can set it up just like a crome map.
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the arduino is my new weapon of choice for this stuff. i think using pwm.out, and two of the six analog inputs, you could do this with just a few lines of code. you could even add some potentiometers to the extra analog inputs, that way you could tune things around how you want.
I was considering doing this with one of my older basic stamp boards I have laying around. I gotta pick up an arduino to fuck with.
Funny you should mention one of those, HMT.Orgy has that on the first page of EM.