:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: ifly87 on April 07, 2010, 01:25:12 AM
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Any help or light on this would be greatly appreciated.
D16z6
Vitara pistons/stock length forged rods
skunk2IM 65mm TB
ebay 57trim .63/.60 turbo
precision 1000's, currently using resistor box (FJO injector driver ordered)
Ok, I have been reading up on getting this thing to idle with the 1000's and lots of people claim they can get a perfect idle. However I cannot. I start by making a fresh basemap take p28 maps/schalars put them to p30 code, add boost/fuel tools. In fuel tools put in 1000cc for "new injector size", and in the inj batt offset (stock) select the precision 1000's for a starting point.
Like this the car will fire up and just die, its too lean. So I go into the advance tab of the multiplier calculator and adjust the final multiplier until the car will start and run (putting any number in the offset just makes it worse). The thing that worry's me is I need to set the final multiplier back up to near .70 to get it to start and idle and then it is rich. By setting the final multiplier so high, it thinks i'm running much much smaller injectors. If I lower the final multiplier even small amounts like say to .69 or .69, the afr will just overshoot stoich and go lean.
So I start slowly to the injector battery offset (stock) table until the afr's come back down. I need to add alot to get the afr's to be normal(ish) with the final multiplier near where it should be with the 1000's. (https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi106.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm258%2Fifly87%2Fcromescreenshot.jpg&hash=61dff488dec9d5621ceb61f29e1707540054d167)
Even like this I can get an idle but as soon as I start driving around thw whole map is crazy rich. I'm guessing at idle i'm running so close to the lower limit of the injectors. Also I need to have the iacv slider at about 20%
I have an injector driver comming but I just wish I could just get theese to work there must be somthing I am missing.
To anyone who reads this and can help thank you very much. I have been searching pgmfi and honda tech threads for the last few days and cannot find any real good info.
Oh yeah, I've tried adding timing at idle, but it doesnt seem to help even If I ad 5-10 degrees.
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You're not tuning the car. You're dicking around with the multipliers instead of the fuel tables. Set your injectors up picking the injector offsets and scaling for injectors. Change the offset until the car will start. Once it will, adjust the actual fuel tables. You don't need to datalog to tune idle. Look at the rpm gauge and then look at the your boost gauge. Adjust the fuel table in that section to work.
Tuning for battery offset is easy. Tune the car with all your accessories off. Then when you are done, turn them on and monitor battery voltage via datalogging. Add/remove fuel as necessary from the appropriate part of the table. Simple.
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Theres a logic defying trick to tuning percision 1000's. the base will start out lean but you actually need to take more fuel away. try it with the multiplier. I'm really tired right now and can't think or remember straight. But it has to do with the large pintle reacting really slowly at low pulse widths at idle. Take a bunch away and it should start idling at 14.7 or somewhere near. then start tuning the maps.
I haven't tuned a set of them in a long time but thats about how it works with those bastards.
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Set your injectors up picking the injector offsets and scaling for injectors. Change the offset until the car will start.
Ok, I will try this again. By raising the number in the offset box are you adding or taking away fuel? Because it seems that it just makes it worse.
Tuning for battery offset is easy. Tune the car with all your accessories off. Then when you are done, turn them on and monitor battery voltage via datalogging. Add/remove fuel as necessary from the appropriate part of the table. Simple.
I was under the impression that this needed to be done first, thank you for the info. I have read about some people unplugging the alt? what would be the sense of this? Can you just use the voltage displayed on the datalogging chart?
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whats your fuel pressure at idle?
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Theres a logic defying trick to tuning percision 1000's. the base will start out lean but you actually need to take more fuel away. try it with the multiplier. I'm really tired right now and can't think or remember straight. But it has to do with the large pintle reacting really slowly at low pulse widths at idle. Take a bunch away and it should start idling at 14.7 or somewhere near. then start tuning the maps.
I haven't tuned a set of them in a long time but thats about how it works with those bastards.
I thought that was only for the 1600's.
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my PTE 1000s idled fine... i also didnt tune the car lol... sorry, no help. i could probably send you the map tho? its for a B18C1.
but, why you running 1000s on a single cam?
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select the correct battery offsets from the list. Trim Main fuel until it idles right.
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Theres a logic defying trick to tuning percision 1000's. the base will start out lean but you actually need to take more fuel away. try it with the multiplier. I'm really tired right now and can't think or remember straight. But it has to do with the large pintle reacting really slowly at low pulse widths at idle. Take a bunch away and it should start idling at 14.7 or somewhere near. then start tuning the maps.
I haven't tuned a set of them in a long time but thats about how it works with those bastards.
I thought that was only for the 1600's.
It works for bigger inyectors in general.
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Ok made a fresh basemap and put in 1000's for new injector value, left all the advance table stock. It took an offset of 105 to get it to start, and when it was warm an offset of 117 made it idle nice and smooth with afr's between 14.7-15.2. Then I selected the battery offset's for the precision 1000's and had to tweak the offset a little more I think it ended up with an offset of around 113-115. That is not touching any of the cells in the map, just scaled for 1000's and adjusted the offset. I was trying this before but only went up to about 80 which still wouldnt start the car and I thought it was already way to much so I stopped. Thanks for the info, now I just have to wait for a coupler to come in the mail to get it out on the road and doing some more tuning. That and we just got like 2 inches of snow.
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Ok made a fresh basemap and put in 1000's for new injector value, left all the advance table stock. It took an offset of 105 to get it to start, and when it was warm an offset of 117 made it idle nice and smooth with afr's between 14.7-15.2. Then I selected the battery offset's for the precision 1000's and had to tweak the offset a little more I think it ended up with an offset of around 113-115. That is not touching any of the cells in the map, just scaled for 1000's and adjusted the offset. I was trying this before but only went up to about 80 which still wouldnt start the car and I thought it was already way to much so I stopped. Thanks for the info, now I just have to wait for a coupler to come in the mail to get it out on the road and doing some more tuning. That and we just got like 2 inches of snow.
I had to use an offset of 65 for my delphi/precision 75# injectors to work.
I never tweaked the offset after warm-up but after reading this, I may have too try that. :yes:
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my PTE 1000s idled fine... i also didnt tune the car lol... sorry, no help. i could probably send you the map tho? its for a B18C1.
but, why you running 1000s on a single cam?
It was built by OCZC. That will only be half the injectors required to reach full potential of that setup.
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I'd suggest ditching the 1k's, getting siemen deka injectors, and running them at 60psi base with a 255hp pump. That'd be roughly equal to 950cc at 43psi but still have another 25psi left to keep them w/in mfg's tested limits. Best of all you'd get a much better ball seat design that's fast as hell and has a very nice spray pattern & atomization.
But what do I know. I only idled 780 dekas on a mpfi/obd1 d15b2 with uberdata, better than stock, for my first time tuning evar. :P
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I got the 1000's to idle rock solid, just had to keep adding offset. I've still got this injector driver gizmo comming in the mail, shitty part is I've spent the last few days tuning it so I dont know if I even want to put the thing on.
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Mine idle perfect. Of course, its LEED tuned.
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yea you show that cunt who's boss
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I got the 1000's to idle rock solid, just had to keep adding offset. I've still got this injector driver gizmo comming in the mail, shitty part is I've spent the last few days tuning it so I dont know if I even want to put the thing on.
An injector driver box won't help anything.