:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: jabberwock on June 27, 2010, 12:29:30 PM
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... you aren't talking about this.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi234.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee89%2Fchillnnsht%2Fphoto-1.jpg&hash=c1cb7da4611122bbe466467e3a6087b4e685ad8b)
Yes, headstud stretched at approx 50 ft-lbs with wrench set to 60. What. The. Fuck.
So it wasn't the threads stripping out... it was this stud getting ready to let loose. If I turned it any more it would have broken off.
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good story, glad I can now be a part of it
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Maybe your torque wrench is way off calibration?
Mine were torqued to 80lbs as quoted by ARP, on four occasions.
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I doubt it, the other 9 didn't do shit and came out of the block with an allen wrench and not nearly as much force. The torque wrench is brand new never used.
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Ah damn. Well I guess all of them can't be perfect.
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:'( I have a new set on the way from Slummit and sent a "wtf?" email to ARP. Meanwhile JD makes fun of me for torquing to 150ft lbs... I ;D
I guess I'll also pick up a beam style torque wrench somewhere
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You are not the first to have this issue with ARP bolts/studs.
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Gay... I hope they do something about it. I really don't know what I could have done wrong, considering they were previously torqued to spec and worked fine. The stud in question was in just as far as all the others so :-\
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be glad it wasn't a rod bolt and the damage totaled over $10k.
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What is the option besides ARP?
Can ARP rod bolts be reused once if they take torque properly?
Fastener failure from a fastener company is really unfortunate.
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Was the threads lubed or did you shove it in the hole dry?
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Lubed with the supplied moly lube 3 or 4 years ago when I initially put the motor together.
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be glad it wasn't a rod bolt and the damage totaled over $10k.
Speaking of...
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It happens, contact ARP, I am sure they will send you out a new stud.
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Gay... I hope they do something about it. I really don't know what I could have done wrong, considering they were previously torqued to spec and worked fine. The stud in question was in just as far as all the others so :-\
We're talking about steel, not some exotic alloy. Pull it past it's yeild strength, and it's junk. It's specifically the point where it changes from elastic deformation (rebounds) to plastic deformation (permanent stretch). That's the reason you can't reuse stock head bolts on Hondas. Crank it a tad further (past ultimate strength), and it changes from loading the material around it to "necking" like shown. I'm not a metalurgist, but I would take a guess that the process that makes ARP's strong also raises the yeild strength much closer to the ultimate & breaking strength. Good if you don't overtorque them...
As for as other HS's, I want to say GE or AEBS had them. Maybe another, but it probably depends on the motor. Whatever they were, I think they were also had ball-ends for Hondas so they'd touch the bottom of the hole. Some people put a ball bearing below ARP's when they worry they'll walk out of the hole (finger-tight in hole).
BTW disregard my speculation above, I know what the problem is. Peniswhistles who can't use a camera's MACRO MODE to save their lives tend to over-torque headstuds.
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60 plus or minus however off my tq wrench is... Whatever i got a new set of studs coming
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With a tongue like this...I need my raincoat! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhIMDiypq0w#normal)
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It happens, contact ARP, I am sure they will send you out a new stud.
Yup, they did.
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Bump for relevance. Taking "new" motor apart to figure put why my engine bay was getting sprayed with oil.
I didnt know iphones had macro mode.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi234.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee89%2Fchillnnsht%2Fphoto2.jpg&hash=044587f3009b5b06b06953cafba57eb086c0a3d3)
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I just torqued my ARP rod bolts down with a stretch gauge. I'm taking bets on how long this engine lasts, my money is on <1000 miles for some reason. I just don't have a good vibe and its all used stock parts.
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60 plus or minus however off my tq wrench is... Whatever i got a new set of studs coming
Should be +/-6% if its breaking. You can easily feel the difference between 50/80 lbf-ft. Its probably not your wrench. Exersize that bitch 5-8 times at set torque in the direction youre goi.g to use it in before you tighten nuts and you shouldnt have a problem unless your wrench is obviously fucked.
Beam style/ dial is best besides the digital cdi/snap on.
Also apply torque on the line in the handle or the center of the handle. Makes a bit of a difference if youre being anal about torque specs.
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Yeah it had popped on my 60 setting on some of the studs.. that one just kept turning and turning. I probably got a quarter turn before I thought I was pulling threads out. nope.avi
I wonder if it's still usable without a timesert. I had to really turn the allen key hard to get the stud out but still the lever arm is so short, it may have only been 20ftlbs to fuck the top couple threads up. The bottom threads of the stud could have cleaned up the top threads in the block. Idk ARP sent me a replacement stud but I had already gotten a new set.
Also how should I find an oil leak with the motor out of the car on a stand. I have no clue where it's coming from. When I would drive it oil would just be everywhere but it was weird, I never had to add any the level was ok. Seems like it was just spraying a thin mist out of somewhere or the timing belt (no cover) was throwing that shit everywhere.
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Gay... I hope they do something about it. I really don't know what I could have done wrong, considering they were previously torqued to spec and worked fine. The stud in question was in just as far as all the others so :-\
We're talking about steel, not some exotic alloy. Pull it past it's yeild strength, and it's junk. It's specifically the point where it changes from elastic deformation (rebounds) to plastic deformation (permanent stretch). That's the reason you can't reuse stock head bolts on Hondas. Crank it a tad further (past ultimate strength), and it changes from loading the material around it to "necking" like shown. I'm not a metalurgist, but I would take a guess that the process that makes ARP's strong also raises the yeild strength much closer to the ultimate & breaking strength. Good if you don't overtorque them...
As for as other HS's, I want to say GE or AEBS had them. Maybe another, but it probably depends on the motor. Whatever they were, I think they were also had ball-ends for Hondas so they'd touch the bottom of the hole. Some people put a ball bearing below ARP's when they worry they'll walk out of the hole (finger-tight in hole).
BTW disregard my speculation above, I know what the problem is. Peniswhistles who can't use a camera's MACRO MODE to save their lives tend to over-torque headstuds.
You can't reuse Honda head bolts eh? On certain ones that may be the case, but certainly not with the Honduh engines most of us are playing with.
Lol!
I like the GE stud design better, but the ball bearing idea for ARPS is a solid one as well. Hadn't thought of that.
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Honda bolts are intended to be replaced every use, doesn't mean they won't work more than once
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Did ARP send a new stud or a new kit? I'm needing a 2nd h22 set, maybe I could borrow your pic...
Bump for relevance. Taking "new" motor apart to figure put why my engine bay was getting sprayed with oil.
I didnt know iphones had macro mode.
They do - it's called don't hold the phone 3" from the object.
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A stud.
And fuck you.