:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ntrain2k on December 21, 2011, 07:46:21 PM
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Does anyone know a RHMT priced source?
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No, but I remember Chris M. talk about using cupcack pans to make them. :noel:
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I remember watching some vid where the guy made metal bowls using woodworking tools on a wood lathe. Seemed like the hardest part would be consistency.
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metal bowls, cupcake pans, I love this place!
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look for 4" subwoofer ports, ive used them a couple of times for turbo inlets and they are cheap
like these ones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subwoofer-Box-Areo-Tuning-4-Venting-Port-Obcon-/320814154121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab2038189 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subwoofer-Box-Areo-Tuning-4-Venting-Port-Obcon-/320814154121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab2038189)
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Needing some for the inside of an intake manifold.
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I remember a while back somebody posted a site where you can get intake parts.
I'll look at my bookmarks and see if I can find it.
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this might work for you.
http://www.rossmachineracing.com/velocitystacks.html (http://www.rossmachineracing.com/velocitystacks.html)
Also metal spinning a set of velocity stacks would be incredibly hard and costly. Not for the average joe.
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It was probably me who posted it.
Yup.
http://www.velocity-of-sound.com/commerce/search/index.php3?merchant_id=2107&keywords=&search_type=ANY&custom_store_category=8&by_category=+++GO%21++ (http://www.velocity-of-sound.com/commerce/search/index.php3?merchant_id=2107&keywords=&search_type=ANY&custom_store_category=8&by_category=+++GO%21++)
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Australia!
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I made one out of a cardboard tube and foam....... pretty easy it wasnt perfect but it worked and i use it sometimes
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Needing some for the inside of an intake manifold.
What DIA and height? How many? I would have to make up a fixture for the lathe to do this but it looks pretty doable.16ga anneal and spin.
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Will post up in a bit. Waiting on the 2nd intake to arrive. Have to cut the plenum open and measure.
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I have a partially done fixture that I am going to give a spin this morning. I will let you know what happens. If it works out well I will hook you up.
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metal bowls, cupcake pans, I love this place!
The last couple sets of cycle itb's I used the cupcake pans for stacks. They do the job. Some epoxy and some generic filters from the cycle shop down the street and your golden. Stacks for under 5 bucks. Now the best part is going into your local kitchen supply store/wal-mart etc with a pair of calipers measuring cupcake pans. Last time an old women asked what I was baking,lol
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Australia!
Lol I never noticed that. Most non-USA sites tell you their location on their main page.
Last time an old women asked what I was baking,lol
What would sound better, "DINOSAURS" or "HORSEPOWER"?
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This is one thing I have been considering making once I finish building my CNC.
:noel:
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I didnt get a chance to fuck around with this project this morning so Im doing it right now. I will post pics up in a while.
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Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
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I did fuck around with the shit I had at the shop. I think I need to look for a different alloy though. I was having a hard time shaping it.
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Really prone to split? That was what Crazy Dave's dad ran into when he did the Big Power ZC ITBs.
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It seems to go well for a while but then it work hardens.
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I assume you were just using 6061? Most comercially available 6061 comes in a T6 temper, which mean it won't form worth shit for tight rads. Two things you can do, heat up the material over 400F and let it cool slowly to lose the temper. Or use 5052, which is meant for forming. Some suppliers might even have 3xxx series sheet in stock but I hate working with it, its just too soft.
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Makes moresense to form tube...
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I assume you were just using 6061? Most comercially available 6061 comes in a T6 temper, which mean it won't form worth shit for tight rads. Two things you can do, heat up the material over 400F and let it cool slowly to lose the temper. Or use 5052, which is meant for forming. Some suppliers might even have 3xxx series sheet in stock but I hate working with it, its just too soft.
It was probably 6061 (just some shit from around the shop). I did the sharpie and propane torch anneal.
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Really prone to split? That was what Crazy Dave's dad ran into when he did the Big Power ZC ITBs.
I assume you were just using 6061? Most comercially available 6061 comes in a T6 temper, which mean it won't form worth shit for tight rads. Two things you can do, heat up the material over 400F and let it cool slowly to lose the temper. Or use 5052, which is meant for forming. Some suppliers might even have 3xxx series sheet in stock but I hate working with it, its just too soft.
It's all in material selection. That and having the tooling to be able to form the part.
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if you're going to machine something machine a die out of steel to press them on a hydraulic press out of aluminum tube :mexi:
You're wasting so much material forming those bitches out of solid stock.
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I was under the impression that we was trying spin them? You won't be able to get much of a radius with a die to form the tube, even if he did do a proper annealing to T0 with 6061 material. Machining them out of solid bar is hardly a waste, Aluminum is about 99% recycleable.
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of money
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and energy
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Even more so is machining the die sets to get a large radius out of 6061 tube ;)
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how large of a radius do you need. just roll the edges.
EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE CNC CUT ON A 1M DOLLAR MACHINE
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Lol I wasn't suggesting this needed to be cut with a CNC in the slightest. Problem is with 6061 tube, in say a 1.5" diameter, is that you won't be able to roll more then .5" to .75" rad, and that is in T0. Ideally you would want at least 1" or more for that size tube.
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then press the tops out of sheet and weld them to a tube like a boss
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I'll come work in your shop and make it 300% more efficient for 60k a year
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I'll come work in your shop and make it 300% more efficient for 60k a year
Come on over then.
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then press the tops out of sheet and weld them to a tube like a boss
Lol you talk like building fixtures and tooling is free. Not sure if serious or just trolling.
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Its not a big deal if you have a lathe. The tooling is generally made on the same lathe as the spinning is done on.
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When do I start, bossman?
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and time
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When do I start, bossman?
February, provided your resume is impressive enough.
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Here is what I ended up with. This is 16ga and I believe its 6061 that was annealed with a propane torch. The problem I ran into was the material work hardened very quickly and the tooling wasnt exactly ideal either.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi886.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac61%2Fslappynuts_photos%2FPicture095.jpg&hash=9658a688efc0bc847c1aa7a4021c98651e3a3140)
After sharpie burned off.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi886.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac61%2Fslappynuts_photos%2FPicture096.jpg&hash=83d5b7563924222e4e1b48868f66fa4e6682da1a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi886.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac61%2Fslappynuts_photos%2FPicture100.jpg&hash=9594b3a452e12878a2e868bb0a7d621911bd2b68)
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Aluminum doesn't work harden, you should be able to form that piece a lot more, the issues is that you still have a lot of temper, that part must still be close or at T6. Anneal it in an oven or better yet get a piece of 5052 and anneal that to T0, you will be amazed how much easier it is for you to spin. (will machine like a gummy mess in T0 just so you know)
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I will see if they have any 5052 drop next time I go and I will give that a spin.
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All the Locost guys I've seen forming the rear body re-anneal several times during the course of forming, particularly where the skin is expected to wrap around the rear bar.
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Hey, Chuck, for the velocity stacks.. What about taking a trapezoid-ish shaped piece of sheetmetal and wrapping it around your form the tig'n it up? As long as theres no absolute necessity for it to be all one piece, functionally, I see no difference. And after dressing and polishing you probably wouldn't 'see' a difference either. I know its ghetto, but I thought the original criteria was 'CHEAP'.
When the place I used to be with was making these, we had the inner and outer stacks CNC'd, but it was big money.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimage.baggersmag.com%2Ff%2F9040345%2Bw750%2Bst0%2F0705_hbkp_07_z%2Bmaxflow_twinstack%2Bvelocity_stack.jpg&hash=f2ed4d19d35b5be86403c27c2e8ad8cf5b9a608e)
Believe it or not these twinstacks kicked ass for a while, and put a couple bikes to the top of their class.
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Anneal alum
make simple steel dies like rawr suggested
HF press
???
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I did anneal it,but it could probably use a little more heat. If you look at the pics I sharpied all over the part and then burned it off with the propane torch. I think it just needs more heat and a longer cool time.