:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: turboblack2door on October 13, 2009, 07:24:17 PM
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I have a oppertunity to buy a brand new aem hi volume fuel rail for $50. My question is would it be worth buying it for my build. My setup is a jdm d15b, fjt custom length rods, ycp vitars(.020 over), evo 9 injectors, evo 9 pump, aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator, CSAddict manifold, HX35w holset turbo, GSR throttle body, arp head studs, and arp 2000 rod bolts.
What do you seasond guys think?
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No i wouldn't buy it..........
Whats that gonna do for you? Nothing special...... Might get you some Madd-tyte-JDM homo's on your cock thats about it....
If thats your thing go ahead....
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before aem fuel rail 13.78
after aem fuel rail 13.78
u catch my drift
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What the fuck do you know....... ::) Speak when spoken too O0
BTW found that IM, TB, and other shit....
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You will max out that pump and injectors on the stock rail. Take that $50 and spend it on a GM 3bar map sensor instead.
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11.23 before
11.22 after
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What the fuck do you know....... ::) Speak when spoken too O0
BTW found that IM, TB, and other shit....
haha and good ill pick it up soon, Chris M PM me so we can speak details!
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You will max out that pump and injectors on the stock rail. Take that $50 and spend it on a GM 3bar map sensor instead.
i have one
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Take that $50 to your local strip club.
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Some people claim a 3% drop in pressure from one end of the stock fuel rail to the other at the 400 whp level. That's one psi, dude. One psi does not fucking matter. I've made over 500 on stock everything except pump, and injectors. I've made 640+ off of stock large exit FPR.
Given your list of shit that was "upgraded" with used OEM parts, completely inconsequential aftermarket parts that do nothing but cost a lot of money, and ZERO mention of the #1 most significant modification to the fuel system which is replacing the stock pump wiring with something that can actually flow some current, uhm you're completely fucking lost, sir. You are putting this on an engine that will make 350 whp on pump gas, and anything past 400 will be blowby city because you have too much CR/too little combustion chamber volume because you had to do a COMPLETELY COSMETIC modification of an internal engine part: make the pistons sit level with the deck at TDC.
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Some people claim a 3% drop in pressure from one end of the stock fuel rail to the other at the 400 whp level. That's one psi, dude. One psi does not fucking matter. I've made over 500 on stock everything except pump, and injectors. I've made 640+ off of stock large exit FPR.
Given your list of shit that was "upgraded" with used OEM parts, completely inconsequential aftermarket parts that do nothing but cost a lot of money, and ZERO mention of the #1 most significant modification to the fuel system which is replacing the stock pump wiring with something that can actually flow some current, uhm you're completely fucking lost, sir. You are putting this on an engine that will make 350 whp on pump gas, and anything past 400 will be blowby city because you have too much CR/too little combustion chamber volume because you had to do a COMPLETELY COSMETIC modification of an internal engine part: make the pistons sit level with the deck at TDC.
don't tell the miata people this. They all believe that "high flow" fuel rails are gifts from god.
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Miatas may or may not need them. Some cars do, some cars do after a certain point. You don't know until you get in there and actually MEASURE things.
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In closing, yes get the fuel rail.
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because you had to do a COMPLETELY COSMETIC modification of an internal engine part: make the pistons sit level with the deck at TDC.
it was not done for cosmetic reasons it was done for drivability reasons. Civcs are slow to begin with then drop the CR almost 3pts and you might as well get out and push untill 5k rpms when the turbo starts to spool.
And for a waste of money on stock replacement parts i don't think $50 for a pump and injecrors is bad deal
I love how everything on this board is done wrong unless a few "OG's" agree with what is being done.
I did get my answer so thanks for that but there is no reason to be a complete dick for no reason just because you have a high post count.
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The vitara motors with port work,a ported intake manifold,a real man size throttle body and upgraded cam I promise are making 130+ whp on motor which is well more than enough to move the car
I believe the record breaking vitara motor was well into the 140's.
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because you had to do a COMPLETELY COSMETIC modification of an internal engine part: make the pistons sit level with the deck at TDC.
it was not done for cosmetic reasons it was done for drivability reasons. Civcs are slow to begin with then drop the CR almost 3pts and you might as well get out and push untill 5k rpms when the turbo starts to spool.
And for a waste of money on stock replacement parts i don't think $50 for a pump and injecrors is bad deal
I love how everything on this board is done wrong unless a few "OG's" agree with what is being done.
I did get my answer so thanks for that but there is no reason to be a complete dick for no reason just because you have a high post count.
Driveability means nothing if the damn thing doesnt last. JD's comment was in reference to the FACT that small bore engines are uber sensitive to ignition timing, and most Dseries die because of this. Vitaras' do what they do because they lower the compression to the point that detonation limit is pushed so high that it becomes fruitful to turn the boost up higher. This isnt an opinion, this is years of experience and many popped motors.
You want driveability? Get a v8. You want power in a small cheap package? Stock rod length vitaras dseries.
You are also completely wrong in your ASSumption that lowering the compression ratio reduces spool time. Best stop wasting your time on HT and listen to those who have done it before, nOOb.
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i wasn't saying lower CR reduce spool time i was saying it will simply take you longer to get to the rpm where the turbo will spool.
And for the timing issue a good tuner who knows anything about hondas will know this
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Anyone who knows anything about Hondas would know that the stock fuel rail is more than sufficient.
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I love how everything on this board is done wrong unless a few "OG's" agree with what is being done.
This site is all about doing what you want. OG's here are usually worth listening to but many people still go against the grain and pioneer new budget methods. This place is one of a kind get used to it or go back to somewhere safe.
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noone said that i wasn't taking the info in its just the mentality around the site is retarded.
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noone said that i wasn't taking the info in its just the mentality around the site is retarded.
Don't let the door hit your ass on your way to http://www.homemadeturbo.com (http://www.homemadeturbo.com)
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noone said that i wasn't taking the info in its just the mentality around the site is retarded.
Don't let the door hit your ass on your way to http://www.homemadeturbo.com (http://www.homemadeturbo.com)
+1
Bye.
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noone said that i wasn't taking the info in its just the mentality around the site is retarded.
Don't let the door hit your ass on your way to http://www.homemadeturbo.com (http://www.homemadeturbo.com)
+1
Bye.
WHAT THEY SAID...cuz i still ask dumb questions and i blew my shit up after 1 fuckin day and had to start over again and i hear shit about it all the time, i get dont do it like the coolnate kid or dnt do it like coolj cuz he blew his shit up yah i fucked up and i learned im not bitchin about it this place is 1 of a kind and im learning fuck im 18 and just started with cars last year, so listen to who u want but your mistakes will cost you no one else they r helping u so fuck off
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fuck you!. I'm 25 years old I've built 2 turbo neons a turbo ef sedan which i have turbo'd taken apart did it again with a bigger turbo and now on to the race car. I'm not a fucking new i didn't just pick up a wrench yesterday so when i would ask a question i would like a decent answer since that's what i'd give someone asking a question not an answer that stems from holy shit look how big my e cock is.
It's good to pick up every bit of info you can but being a cock sucker just because you can is fucking dumb. And 90% of the people like that on the forums are completely different to someones face because they wouldn't like their face stomped in. Its people like that who make not just this form but any forum bull shit.
To be completely honest i could give a fuck if you want me on this site. I'll find the info somewhere else when needed. But i choose to stay on the site for the good available info.
So my ending this conversation is just asking the people to stock being the cock suckers they like to portray and just be to the point when a serious question is asked and stay on point
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fuck you!. I'm 25 years old I've built 2 turbo neons a turbo ef sedan which i have turbo'd taken apart did it again with a bigger turbo and now on to the race car. I'm not a fucking new i didn't just pick up a wrench yesterday so when i would ask a question i would like a decent answer since that's what i'd give someone asking a question not an answer that stems from holy shit look how big my e cock is.
It's good to pick up every bit of info you can but being a cock sucker just because you can is fucking dumb. And 90% of the people like that on the forums are completely different to someones face because they wouldn't like their face stomped in. Its people like that who make not just this form but any forum bull shit.
I've punched a couple people in the face from the local forums, some bigger and stronger than me. Stupidity is not to be tolerated, period, and if you don't like that fuck you, princess, I'd punch you too.
But i choose to stay on the site for the good available info.
Yeah, and I gave it. Every word was gold. You have some OEM Evo shit not as good as a china walbro for $50 (I was offered china Walbros for $45/per with install kit today, princess) and a bunch of other crap that does nothing but waste your money, waste your time installing it, and undermines the reliability of the system because you just stepped away from the OEM quality of the perfectly good stock shit you removed. You basically assembled a fuel system I wouldn't have on a potato cart, then come on here and ask, "Oh yeah do I need a fuel rail?"
Were you expecting us to applaud your stupidity?
i wasn't saying lower CR reduce spool time i was saying it will simply take you longer to get to the rpm where the turbo will spool.
Downshift, faggot. We are not driving V8s. Wait, you aren't driving V8s, I've been driving a Procharged Mustang for the last week.
And for the timing issue a good tuner who knows anything about hondas will know this
The CR issue is not a timing issue. It's a physical limitation of the higher CR engines, the combustion chamber has become too small to process any more airmass efficiently so it becomes volatile regardless of octane and spends part of itself as blowby even after you yank a lot of timing. Sure, you yank timing. Has nothing to do with the engine being misdesigned for it's intended purpose.