:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: speedjunky01 on November 03, 2009, 09:24:01 PM
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finaly got a hold of some bkr7e plugs and aped them to .027 and now the car will rev past 4500 and not break up. had to drive an hour to get them but well worth it
tuned in with some ectune goodness, still no motorola 2.5 so i just tuned it using the last column lol
13ish psi running around 11.5-11 filthy rich i know and stock map with 1.25 retard, would like some advice on the map dont know how to post my file though
anyway vids :D
daytime rhmt z6 turbo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHBi6FX1F1o#normal)
ectune antilag goodness (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=att930iCwyM#normal)
taking it to the track wednesday, hope i can sqeeze out mid 13's this thing is a fucking PIG for a civic lol
think this about says it all lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs107.snc3%2F15450_199656216270_563321270_4441987_5615250_n.jpg&hash=f083d326e443bb67b71ff81a62d0d04133e35b21)
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nice!!!!!!!!
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nice!!!!!!!!
:yes:
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sweet
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nice flame thrower
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Gotta love the anti lag. Even at the the long term expense of the turbo O0
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Thats pimp :noel:
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You put pressure on me, I have to make a vid as nice as this one ;)
I'm not straight pipe tho, don't know if flames will come out
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You put pressure on me, I have to make a vid as nice as this one ;)
I'm not straight pipe tho, don't know if flames will come out
my setup is as fallows
2.5 DP with 5 bolt being help on by 2 bolts others rattleled out lol
3" rc autoworks exhaust tacked together not finish welded, leaking all over the place
3" straight through magnaflow
got a vid during the day where you can actualy see something, will update the 1st post in a minute
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more fuel you add, more flames you see.
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more fuel you add, more flames you see.
not in my experience, im using ignition cut
i found if i went too far above 40ish fuel values antilag would bog down from too much fuel
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really? I am using 100% fuel value. I might have to dink around with it to get optimal flames
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really? I am using 100% fuel value. I might have to dink around with it to get optimal flames
IDK man its whats working for me right now, but since im using ignition cut NOT fuel its whatever the fuel is at that rpm+the fuel value added
if your using fuel cut i could see how you need to dump in a lot more fuel to get some flame
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Tomorrow, I'll give it a new try! Lets get the flame war begin ;)
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Tomorrow, I'll give it a new try! Lets get the flame war begin ;)
if you top my pic, im gonna get one of my old injectors and stick in in the muffler
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I have so many spare injectors, I could do a flame thrower with them :P
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Really, it doesnt work for me... Maybe the 450cc can put enough fuel?
There are no difference between 45 degree and 1200ms to 50 @ 1300ms
Any value I put, I still don't get more than 3psi of boost :-\
You win this round, I didn't even made a vid lol I was disapointed...
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try less fuel, waaaaayyyy less
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I think the first time I tried it I was at like 300-800, but I don't remember about timing tho... Maybe it was the problem. I eat and I go for another try. I have to drive 10 minutes each time lol...
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start at like 10 and work your way up by 10
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What retard do you recommend? I tried 45 degree retard from 10 to 100ms. Was not better than what is was 2 posts ago.
Maybe the problem is somewhere else like a big leak or something...
I'll have to buy eCtune.... that's sad ;)
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Vids of dirty 3rds outside of the car are a must......
Do work....
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im at 40, i think the problem is crome uses fuel cut. . . but IDK on come free and my "anti lag" trick it worked just fine and built 8 psi
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im at 40, i think the problem is crome uses fuel cut. . . but IDK on come free and my "anti lag" trick it worked just fine and built 8 psi
Yeah, that's what makes me wonder the problem might be somewhere else. I'll buy eCtune this week and give it a try.
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I use s300 and uses both ignition and fuel cut, and I still gets the 12" flame out the tail. Anti lag set to 5500-6500 rpms. that means it bounces from 5500-6500, and builds 15 psi fuel enrichemnet set at 55, and ignition at -35 popps real fast.
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I got my eCtune license. I don't think I'll have the time to throw flame tonight, but as soon as I have some time and that my car run ok I'll try it.
I'm in my in my car and it's fucking cold outside... Fucking winter's comming...
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Thing is running good now.
Finnally I tried the anti-lag. Was building a lot of boost compared to crome :o Only problem is that the turbo stopped working after that. I was listening metal to metal friction and no 1 psi of boost.
I said to myself if it wanna blow it's gonna blow so I floor it in third and at 6000rpm the turbo started working fine :noel:
It was like if the turbo was seized of something... No more anti-lag for now lol Anyway, I did a small burnout yesterday and the clutch is half gone.
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yeah ectune doesnt fuck around lol glad to hear your linking it, my china man turbo is taking antilag like a champ, blades all look great as of tonight
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Thing is running good now.
Finnally I tried the anti-lag. Was building a lot of boost compared to crome :o Only problem is that the turbo stopped working after that. I was listening metal to metal friction and no 1 psi of boost.
I said to myself if it wanna blow it's gonna blow so I floor it in third and at 6000rpm the turbo started working fine :noel:
It was like if the turbo was seized of something... No more anti-lag for now lol Anyway, I did a small burnout yesterday and the clutch is half gone.
bent shaft due to massive amounts of surging perhaps?
I hope it's not that. I don't want to buy another turbo until next summer at least. It was popping nice tho :noel:
It had also a nice black smoke on the back when I finished lol
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same with mine, if the exhaust gets hot enough thats how i got the huge flame that black smoke ignites :D :D
im building a new DP, adding the 2.5bar and MBC and upping to manly 15-17psi and see how she likes it.
the DP is all whitey bends so its a PAIN to weld/fit i did it all in 15* segments so there are a BUNCH of bends
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same with mine, if the exhaust gets hot enough thats how i got the huge flame that black smoke ignites :D :D
im building a new DP, adding the 2.5bar and MBC and upping to manly 15-17psi and see how she likes it.
the DP is all whitey bends so its a PAIN to weld/fit i did it all in 15* segments so there are a BUNCH of bends
15* segments lol Good luck ;) Why the new downpipe btw?
I still have the stock map sensor, but I have a Motorola 4bar somewhere. I'm still on stock internal and from other's build with the same turbo I should put down 300hp at around 17psi. If I have the time I'll change the clutch for the ACT I have laying around, install the 4bar and turn up the boost to 15psi.
Between xmas and new year is a good time ;D
Btw, when I turn the key on, the Engine light flash 3 times. Does eCtune give the CEL directly like this? Flash 3 time which is a MAP cel. Seems to work fine tho...
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yeah it does that to me too, just kinda check its self over
if you hold the pedal down with the key in on it will flash CEL codes if there are any to be read
the old one keept rateling bolts off, was only using 3 out of 5 bolts to hold the flage on and just not very smooth, hoping to pick up some power with the new DP
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I did the press pedal thing and only thing I got is solid cel lol I doubt it was the case cause the car was running fine.
Same thing with my downpipe. I have actually 3 bolts out of 5. I could not weld the bitch in place so I had to guess. Took me like 2 hours to fab it and still have a 1mm play on the front side of it. I hate 5 bolts flange. Next time I'll use a v-band welded in place...
Did you dyno'd your car?
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this new one i made it has all 5 bolts and they can be removed wint a non-dog eating size hand :mexi:
would you happen to know what the threads are supposed to be for the CDM t3.t4 turbos on the dp? im using some metric bolts but they seems to be able to wiggle a bit when they are in
no dyno yet, but from timing the video it does 0-60 in 5ish and 0-90 in like 11ish so its not too bad, it was trapping around 94 last time at the track with a base map with like NO timing and way to much fuel, i think it will trap close to 100 this time around, if not more boost will be added lol
im guessing 200-210? idk
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I don't know what are the threads on CDM turbo. Well, I don't know what it is on my turbo either. I guessed some size I had and it was one of them, but I didn't check what size it was. Would be a nice idea to measure it tho...
From my video I do 0-60 in 6sec with a bad second shift (was out of boost at this rpm). I think it's more 5ish me too. I can't retry it now with the bad clutch... It sucks.
Repairing the shift linkage would be a nice idea too. It is so bad that I'm not sure if I'm in 1st, 3rd or 5th :?: In fact I know where I am, but visually you can't say in what gear I am. reason of the long ass shift in the video.
Integra 92 LS stock internal turbo at 10psi 0 to 190km/h (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LINC3zFPW68#normal)
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buy the ES shifter bushing kit, its like 15 bucks and takes 15 min to install
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It's not the bushing, its the rivet underneath the shift stick that retain the stick and the rod. I have a bushing kit I need to install.
I checked the bushing and they aren't bad. It's really the rivet or bolt that fix the stick and rod together.
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It's not the bushing, its the rivet underneath the shift stick that retain the stick and the rod. I have a bushing kit I need to install.
I checked the bushing and they aren't bad. It's really the rivet or bolt that fix the stick and rod together.
I was just thinking the other day. My car has the bushing kit and still is sloppy as shit, I looked underneith and the slop is all at the rivet, shifter bolt, and bitch pin locations.
Luckily I have an old brake shoe riveter I came across from an old farmer, and the bitch pin and shifter bolts just need proper fitting components/bushings/sleeves to take the slack out. I'll post pics some year when I pull swap my trans and fix all this little shit.
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I wonder if I can do something with a bolt... Rivet blows ass.
My red teg had the same problem, but to the front near the transmission. I don't want to buy shifter rods just for a fucking rivet.
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Probably could with a shoulder bolt but it's also possible you could have trouble finding a correct size bolt and end up making the slop worse.
A rivet can also be reworked sometimes with a punch, hammer, and a vice. It depends on were its loose and what is worn to cause it.
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i have seen people drill it out and use a bolt there with a nut and some locktite i just replaced my bitch pin with one i bought from a guy on d-series.org (crazymx-6) or some shit like that.