:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: Vagitarian on December 07, 2009, 09:22:27 AM
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Im sick and tired of having to fuck with 5 bolts on my downpipe everytime, and when I removed the bolts a week ago to put the car back to n/a for the winter, 2 bolts broke.
I seen an adapter on atpturbo to convert 5 bolt to vband, but it was $150. Is there any that are MUCH cheaper, without welding to the cast iron. I already have a spare 5 bolt flange, so should I just simply buy a v-band kit and get it welded on or is there anything specially done by atp turbo or anything??
Like dis
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhimni-racing.com%2Fimages%2F5_bolt%2520to%2520v-band.jpg&hash=9558f154b774a3e733843f91287e603d7cfccd6e)
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Just buy a v-band set and weld to one side straight to the turbo. F an adapter.
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if your interested send me a pm i can make that adaptor for WAY less then $150.
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You can try this: http://cgi.ebay.ca/5-BOLT-TO-2-5-V-BAND-CLAMP-DOWNPIPE-FLANGE-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ270495520487QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3efaca16e7#ht_3246wt_960 (http://cgi.ebay.ca/5-BOLT-TO-2-5-V-BAND-CLAMP-DOWNPIPE-FLANGE-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ270495520487QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3efaca16e7#ht_3246wt_960)
Or this
http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-5-Bolt-to-3-V-Band-Conversion-Adapter-for-INT-W-G_W0QQitemZ320457384982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9cbfa416#ht_2930wt_939 (http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-5-Bolt-to-3-V-Band-Conversion-Adapter-for-INT-W-G_W0QQitemZ320457384982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9cbfa416#ht_2930wt_939)
Still expensive tho...
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I just bought a v-band kit and welded it to my 5 bolt flange. Never had to take off the flange after that
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ATP stuff is always expensive.
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I dont have my flange handy, but when you buy these 3" vband kits, can you weld the ring right to the flange, or is the hole much to big?? and youd need a reducer??
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I really like this one you linked, with the internal wastegate hole adapted into it. But do you need the hole blocked for running external wastegate instead of internal
http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-5-Bolt-to-3-V-Band-Conversion-Adapter-for-INT-W-G_W0QQitemZ320457384982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9cbfa416#ht_2930wt_939 (http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-5-Bolt-to-3-V-Band-Conversion-Adapter-for-INT-W-G_W0QQitemZ320457384982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9cbfa416#ht_2930wt_939)
BUT, I will be running external wastegate. Do you need that hole blocked off for external wastegate??
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Do you need that hole blocked off for external wastegate??
Think about that for a little bit, seriously...
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Do you need that hole blocked off for external wastegate??
Think about that for a little bit, seriously...
i would like to know this as well!!!!!
yeah right!!!!!
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ya im stupid bite me I didnt sleep lol
Anyways, would a 3" vband kit weld right up tot he t3 flange, or would I need a reducer?
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Get some grade 8 or 10 S.S. bolts and they shouldn't snap or rust.
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Anyways, would a 3" vband kit weld right up tot he t3 flange, or would I need a reducer?
t3 outlet is only 2.5" so a 2.5" vband with a 3"-2.5" reducer would work fine and give you better bolt clearance than simply welding a 3" v-band to the flange
Mine below. After the v-band it jumps up to 3"
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv203%2Fryan89crx%2Fbuild%2Fv-band.jpg&hash=b370263885a688403f934bfc8e62f7739535d770)
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Ya I guess Ill just weld a 2.5" - 3" reducer onto my flange, then a 3" v-band on that
Is there a nice thick 2.5-3" reducer available for a fair price??
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http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/ (http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/)
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^^ I just spent $218.70 on there lol, 3" ubends, v-bands and misc for the win!!!
Thanks
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I shoulda asked first, but this is the transition piece I wanted right, I can cut a bunch of the 2.5" off, weld that to my turbo flange, and then the 3 band piece to that???
Damn cheap prices on that site
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I was just looking through ebay for v-bands and saw one, 5-bolt to 3" v-band external WG. VERY cheap, I was very surprised. It looked like it was a machined piece, I think $40 bucks. Now that I think of it, I asked the guy how tall it was.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220523352425 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220523352425)
Guy said it sticks out ~4" to the middle of the v-band from the turbine housing's surface, but I think that's actually with both rings together. I was thinking about making one myself to compare a .78ar divided housing vs a .63ar housing if I get the turbo I want. If you weld on the inside, bend & grind the v-band ring enough, you can get a normal 3" v-band ring on a normal 5-bolt flange and use normal 10mm hex bolts.
btw I looked at practically everything ebay has on v-bands. The link below shows what I think is the best deal for a very nice v-band.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-0-V-BAND-FLANGE-KIT-T3-T4-T04E-TURBO-DOWNPIPE-CLAMP_W0QQitemZ320441001510QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9bc5a626 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-0-V-BAND-FLANGE-KIT-T3-T4-T04E-TURBO-DOWNPIPE-CLAMP_W0QQitemZ320441001510QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9bc5a626)
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This guy has one
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=177375 (http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=177375)
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I have been looking for this same exact thing, I have been talking with aaron wier about making one.
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Well about $60 and you can buy one premade !!!
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Anyways, would a 3" vband kit weld right up tot he t3 flange, or would I need a reducer?
t3 outlet is only 2.5" so a 2.5" vband with a 3"-2.5" reducer would work fine and give you better bolt clearance than simply welding a 3" v-band to the flange
Mine below. After the v-band it jumps up to 3"
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv203%2Fryan89crx%2Fbuild%2Fv-band.jpg&hash=b370263885a688403f934bfc8e62f7739535d770)
is that the red hi temp silicone instead of a gasket inbetween the turbo outlet and the dp flange?
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This is the one we make. Just a vband welded to a flange and ported on the inside to match up.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mandrel-bends.com%2Ffab%2Fadapter%2F5bolt-adapter-big.jpg&hash=ff57a80afd7c663b35b240519bd1e8fb1320dbba)
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And is it fairly in expensive???
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No. We just charge people for the weld & grinding time. I think it's about $12 over the cost of the raw materials to do it.
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Oh, and dimensions:
Ours is about 1.25" from the bottom of the flange to the top of the vband.
When you have pair of vbands clamped it's just under 2" from the bottom of the flange to the top of the pair.
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Oh, and dimensions:
Ours is about 1.25" from the bottom of the flange to the top of the vband.
When you have pair of vbands clamped it's just under 2" from the bottom of the flange to the top of the pair.
Hmmm. Very nice.
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Thats a 2.5" though I just noticed, I need 3"
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The 3" pieces we use a cone transition in the middle. They end up being about 3/4" of an inch taller. The fab time is a trim to length, 2 welds and grind/port.
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Price on the 3"?? Couldnt find it on your site
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GT25 version perhaps?
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Weir could hook you up with something nice, I have loved every part hes done for me!
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Thats a 2.5" though I just noticed, I need 3"
I was just thinking, since the v-band flange goes over the pipe, you could probably use a flange that has a thick weld area on it. Meaning a 3" OD tube would practically fit perfectly OUTSIDE a 2.5" v-band flange. Look at the links below:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-V-Band-FLANGE-Kit-Mild-Steel-Turbo-Downpipe_W0QQitemZ350289856989QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518ee709dd (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-V-Band-FLANGE-Kit-Mild-Steel-Turbo-Downpipe_W0QQitemZ350289856989QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518ee709dd)
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-Inch-Turbo-Exhaust-V-Band-Clamp-2-Vband-Flange-Kit_W0QQitemZ390125882328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad5508bd8 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-Inch-Turbo-Exhaust-V-Band-Clamp-2-Vband-Flange-Kit_W0QQitemZ390125882328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad5508bd8)
I'm sure Weir could make 3" v-band ring with a 2.25" inlet. Like all his work, it would be $$$, but you get what you pay for with him. :yes:
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That won't work on a 2.5" ring. A typical 2.5" vband flange has a 3/8" wall, so the ID is 2.510, but the OD is then 3.250". It's a 3/4" step from ID to OD.
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That won't work on a 2.5" ring. A typical 2.5" vband flange has a 3/8" wall, so the ID is 2.510, but the OD is then 3.250". It's a 3/4" step from ID to OD.
I don't think you understand me, or your normal clamps are sized crazy. Think of a step-tube header, it would be done like that.
In the picture below, I'm talking about putting it on the OD of the flange's right side. In that cross section, a 2.5" OD tube would go below (inside) it. A 3" OD tube would instead be put above (outside) the right side's lip. The 1st 2.5" link above shows a flange much thicker than the pic's .07-.08" lip, enough to either butt-weld or lap-weld a 3" tube to it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clampco.com%2Fproducts%2Fimages%2Fpopup_images%2Ff1019_series.gif&hash=56aec73aed419e74b13eabe79a70f4dda16ea8c0)
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I see what you are saying. On that side you'd get 2.66-2.70" OD. So if you slide 3" tube over it (assuming 0.065 wall), you would get about an 1/8" gap all the way around the tube. The advantage of doing it this way would be it could be kept pretty short, but you would have a relatively large gap to fill.
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Thats a 2.5" though I just noticed, I need 3"
For one i can't believe this thread has gone on this long. Just buy the mandrel bends one and go 2.5" to 3" after the v band.
If your using a garrett 5 bolt. i guarantee you will not have an issue with a 2.5" v band. just it is low profile.
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The reason I keep adding is because of my situation. I'm getting a 50trim t3/t04e with the .78ar ATP housing which has a 3" v-band. I want to test that against my .63ar housing when I get everything together w/o cutting & welding my downpipe or the housing. I *neeeed* to have the most compact 3" v-band on a 5-bolt flange - hence having ideas how to do a 3" on a 5-bolt flange. :)
Mandrel-bends, look at the ebay link above, or their picture below. They definately do not use the 'typical' .07-.08" thick wall, as they specifically state it's extra thick. It has to be at least 3/16" thick, enough to weld a 3" onto it somehow. That picture of the v-band is a typical clampco flange and only served to show where I was intending it to weld to. To make a long story short, I'm saying it's possible to use a 2.5" v-band with a 3" pipe w/o a reducer - with the right v-band flange. Not an average flange. I hope I'm not confusing, but I'll do some MSPaint if needed.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.shaw.ca%2Fgehca%2Fpic%2F2.5%2520VBKS.jpg&hash=26fc20ab038080012adccb8b2a61861b9affb521)
One thing that's similar is a 3"-4" closet flange, aka toilet flange. They are designed to fit inside a 4" ID pvc pipe, as well as fit outside a 3" ID pvc pipe.
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Thats a 2.5" though I just noticed, I need 3"
I'm sure Weir could make 3" v-band ring with a 2.25" inlet. Like all his work, it would be $$$, but you get what you pay for with him. :yes:
he made me a 4inch to 3 inch v band converter for my holset, like i told the OP above, if he wants somthing so perfect, have someone make it.
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Ours is 0.080, and definitely won't work - huge gap. You might email him and ask how thick they are. It will need to be pretty tight to get a good weld in there, and it wont be a very easy weld due to the flange height blocking you coming in from the side.
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I fully understand, I just never said possible = easy. ;D
One thing I got last year just for shit like this is a 3" collector reducer (for v8 headers). Summit had some stainless pairs for a steal (included the flanges), and go from as large as 3.25" down to 2.25". You just don't get a smooth conical transition.