:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: NoPistons! on December 17, 2009, 02:37:20 PM
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Can they handle it?
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Sure.
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What are you building that you are planning on running 1600* egt temps? But yes guys run them on diesels without issue and they commonly get to 1400*+
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I have used one at 2000+ degrees, without issue. They Pyro stopped at 2000, but I am sure it was warmer then that.
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Just spray nitrous and watch your failure shit pop.
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zing
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my tial style is holding up fine.
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Alrighty then. I'll consider it.
Anyone else having good luck?
I know the construction is pretty much the same but the materials used may not be up to par with turbonetics, hks or tial.......
Just spray nitrous and watch your failure shit pop.
Or i could drop my pants and you can lick me where i shit? I shave and keep it clean. :yes:
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I got an ssauto 35mm cheap, decided to use it. Boost is a flatline with as low as 2psi, and so far as high as 18psi...same spring. EBC is nice. :noel: I did have to replace the diaphragm since it was the old silicone style, the new one is the fabricy nomex stuff. I've also had to reduce the O.D. of the spring on another, since it bound inside the housing. I'd rather use a dsm BOV and a real tial than a fancy [real] type-S and fake 35mm though.
The heat isn't the issue, it's usually the poor seal around the valve stem that gets you or the diaphragm. W/O an EBC your boost will drop off as pressure leaks past the stem (open dump) or rise as backpressure seems in (restrictive/recirc dump).
BTW while I was searching for turbos, AGP has their own 38mm wastegate that's not full-CDM for $200.
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I buy used hks/tial.
IIRC, i sold my old turbonetics 38mm to evans performance or whatever his name is.....
Fuck it. I'm not skimping or trying to cut corners wondering WHEN shit is going to break due to CUTTING CORNERS with bullshit from china cranked out of sweatshops to turn profit in a shit economy.....
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your gay
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I buy used hks/tial.
IIRC, i sold my old turbonetics 38mm to evans performance or whatever his name is.....
Fuck it. I'm not skimping or trying to cut corners wondering WHEN shit is going to break due to CUTTING CORNERS with bullshit from china cranked out of sweatshops to turn profit in a shit economy.....
Cutting corners has nothing to do with it. Its going to break regardless.
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+1
Hotrods always break, get over it or pick a hobby that's easier.
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Knitting
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Knitting
Knit pls
http://doctorwhoscarf.com/season12.php (http://doctorwhoscarf.com/season12.php)
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Knitting
Knit pls
http://doctorwhoscarf.com/season12.php (http://doctorwhoscarf.com/season12.php)
I could poke an eye out!
Jdm bling unless china has stepped their game up.....
Yep, hot rods do break. Sometimes cheaping out on parts causes em to break faster. However, i'd rather shatter some fiberglass running off the track than shoot a rod through my oil pan because of a stuck wastegate as i'm bouncing off the rev limiter.
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no need for rods if you dont have pistons
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lolololololololololol
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What engine and why do you feel it will see 1600degrees? If your talking about a quick jaunt to that temp, I wouldnt worry. If your talking about road racing, you will have worse things to worry about than wastegates at that temp.
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Yeppers.
Well rotor fail is leaving saturday.
I realize it does more harm than good to try to keep that shit in there and make any power on the reliable/peace of mind.
Rotary egt's get HOT. Retarded hot. Rotarded hot.
Nah, me and about 4 other guys (2 work on rotarys, the other is an s chassis guy) are going to figure this KA-T shit out in my rx7. I dont want to wire the swap up. They offered. Also offered to do my rear sump pan since i can not weld aluminum. not even with a mig. :(
Yeah. $3000 budget hmt style build, probably hmt style use and throw away china tools too.
So back in the game with egay gates i guess.
If i'm over 1400 degrees egt with a ka24det's and have a wastegate stick something is very wrong with tuning/timing/something fucked.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
where you buying rebuild parts? unless your talking total destruction rebuild.
I has seen a friend rebuild his 13b in front of me and it was the easiest looking thing ever, and cost around $400 in parts/seals. Took him maybe 45 min to finish it up. the hardest part was cleaning out the vasaline to get it to start.
Ran strong for about a year then he blew it up on 20+ psi on a gt42. (ran antilag alot) so...... they can be reliable. Just not when difter wannabe's try and mess with them.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
where you buying rebuild parts? unless your talking total destruction rebuild.
I has seen a friend rebuild his 13b in front of me and it was the easiest looking thing ever, and cost around $400 in parts/seals. Took him maybe 45 min to finish it up. the hardest part was cleaning out the vasaline to get it to start.
Ran strong for about a year then he blew it up on 20+ psi on a gt42. (ran antilag alot) so...... they can be reliable. Just not when difter wannabe's try and mess with them.
Disagree. How many rotaries are running around that could be rebuilt without new rotor housings? If you start with a good block and reseal it sure. But those are few and far between. When you do find a good motor, they are $$$.
Im far from a wannabe, and my motor was built by one of the best rotary guys on the east coast. There was nothing reliable about it, and I feel very comfortable in my hate for the wankel.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
where you buying rebuild parts? unless your talking total destruction rebuild.
I has seen a friend rebuild his 13b in front of me and it was the easiest looking thing ever, and cost around $400 in parts/seals. Took him maybe 45 min to finish it up. the hardest part was cleaning out the vasaline to get it to start.
Ran strong for about a year then he blew it up on 20+ psi on a gt42. (ran antilag alot) so...... they can be reliable. Just not when difter wannabe's try and mess with them.
Disagree. How many rotaries are running around that could be rebuilt without new rotor housings?
Steve Eckeritch bought all 1000 of the 13B's destined for North America that Mazda reproduced for racing use. He's hoarding that shit, and what he does sell goes for top dollar.
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There was nothing reliable about it, and I feel very comfortable in my hate for the wankel.
This had me laughing pretty good.
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JD, thank you for agreeing and seeing the potential.
The chassis is pretty good and the KA is a solid engine. Definately outperforms the SR stock for stock. Ofcourse this is with a stock healthy rebuilt ka with the same turbo, injectors and boost as your basic japland sr junkyard engine.
I have respect for the high dollar turbo rotary builds that more dedication than MOST of us on this forum would be willing enough to go through but it's not something that's for me. Really. Especially for a daily driver.
KA-T and be done with it.
Although again, i'm stuck trying to figure more shit out and play the waiting game. I had a hell of a downer dropped on me yesterday.
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Put a small block in it.
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Put a small block in it.
And turbo it.
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Put a small block in it.
No.
Can't afford potato potato.
LT1 almost made it's home in my car. Friend used an INSURANCE QUOTE to obtain a license plate, had marijuana in his car, got pulled doing burnouts in the middle of town, got his camaro inpounded, thrown in jail, fines out the ass. Had to sell his spare LT1 and T56. He was only charging me $400 for it too......
I gave up on it. I have no idea where he ended up either. Probably dead.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
where you buying rebuild parts? unless your talking total destruction rebuild.
I has seen a friend rebuild his 13b in front of me and it was the easiest looking thing ever, and cost around $400 in parts/seals. Took him maybe 45 min to finish it up. the hardest part was cleaning out the vasaline to get it to start.
Ran strong for about a year then he blew it up on 20+ psi on a gt42. (ran antilag alot) so...... they can be reliable. Just not when difter wannabe's try and mess with them.
Disagree. How many rotaries are running around that could be rebuilt without new rotor housings? If you start with a good block and reseal it sure. But those are few and far between. When you do find a good motor, they are $$$.
Im far from a wannabe, and my motor was built by one of the best rotary guys on the east coast. There was nothing reliable about it, and I feel very comfortable in my hate for the wankel.
Wasn't referring to you as a wannabe just people like nopistons.
there no more unreliable then any other engine when doubling or tripling the hp in oem form. they don't suck as bad as most say they do.
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You'll have good luck with a KA24DE. They are cheap and plentiful if anything goes wrong, and stock for stock hold a lot more power than SR20DET will.
+1
Worse for worse, you could rebuild 3 KA's for the price of a 13b rebuild.
where you buying rebuild parts? unless your talking total destruction rebuild.
I has seen a friend rebuild his 13b in front of me and it was the easiest looking thing ever, and cost around $400 in parts/seals. Took him maybe 45 min to finish it up. the hardest part was cleaning out the vasaline to get it to start.
Ran strong for about a year then he blew it up on 20+ psi on a gt42. (ran antilag alot) so...... they can be reliable. Just not when difter wannabe's try and mess with them.
Disagree. How many rotaries are running around that could be rebuilt without new rotor housings? If you start with a good block and reseal it sure. But those are few and far between. When you do find a good motor, they are $$$.
Im far from a wannabe, and my motor was built by one of the best rotary guys on the east coast. There was nothing reliable about it, and I feel very comfortable in my hate for the wankel.
Wasn't referring to you as a wannabe just people like nopistons.
there no more unreliable then any other engine when doubling or tripling the hp in oem form. they don't suck as bad as most say they do.
Then buy one.
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Exactly, JD. Go buy one.
Yeah. I'm a wannabe drifter. Gonna go pro and all that shit, get my d1 gran prix license, get the gold, fuck jap umbrella girls, get in all teh mags and keiichi tchuchiya or however you spell his name (too lazy to google it) will suck me off between rounds.
Living the dreeeeeem, son.
Real talk, as long as i'm having fun i honestly dont give a fuck. I do not care if a 300hp ka is just as reliable as a 300hp rotary. DONT CARE. That's your opinion. Not written in stone fact. It's my car, my time, my money. I'll do what I want to do regardless if you want to spout your gay banter or not.
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Exactly, JD. Go buy one.
Pass. I've seen enough second hand.
I'll do what I want to do regardless if you want to spout your gay banter or not.
Gay banter? I'm not the one advocating rotories.
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I was agreeing with you.
Assclown.
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Assclown.
:)
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I did digging more on the ebay wastegates.
People have used them and NOT have them stick but they've done several mods to get them to work well.
Spring:
Problem: Sometimes, they are cheap shit material and heat causes them to "sag". Wastegate will blow open and the car will not build boost.
Solution: Buy a brand name spring.
Valve sticking open/closed:
Problem: Shitty tolerances dont account for thermal expansion of shitty materials.
Solution: Sand valve and polish to a mirror finish. Check with a dial indicator/digital calipers. Re-assemble and put high temp anti sieze on the valve shaft.
Torn diaphragm:
Problem: Shitty material
Solution: Buy a new one from the company who's gate your knock-off is based on. (also applies to cdm bov's)
These are what the supra guys have been doing with them anyway.
So we can just throw egt's out of the equation of these failing after all precautionary measures have been taken.
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By the time you do all that, a used brand name unit is a better deal.
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By the time you do all that, a used brand name unit is a better deal.