this is a transfer of the thread from binderplanet, i figured 'holy fuck, that's a lot of problems' and all the once-riced hondas and backyard fixes for stupid shit, i'd post mine for it's epicness.
PO cut a diamond shaped hole in the hood, for what reason? it went nowhere, and was unable to reach the latch.
had a throw switch on the inside of the passenger fender wired to the battery, i traced the wires back to the passenger gastank sender, where one was wired to the sender, and the other was grounded to the body.
the tank selector fuel switch had both tanks tee'd together BEFORE the switch, with another tee off of the passenger tank, that went to 10ft of garden hose (via some fancy pipework, i must say) and a nibco valve on the end of the hose.
had a second toggle switch wired to the tank selector switch on the dash, behind the dash that would cause dead shorts when turned either way (ask me how i found this one out..)
the inside of my brake drums were painted chevy orange, front and rear, along with the front and rear hubs
has 4 holes drilled in a 12x10" pattern on EITHER side of the bed, with an angle iron frame going to the holes. looks like the passenger holes were brazed/welded shut, and ground flat.
PO started to 'repaint' the bed with a paintbrush, and gave up.
exhaust had a muffler brazed at the y of the y-pipe, with no donut in either side. muffler turndown turned up, right into the floor.
running boards were screwed to the fender lips with what looked like wood screws, but were rusted off at the head. otherwise they were screwed into the quarter panels.
drivers gas tank had no key, but when i drilled out the lock, i found 'great stuff' foam sprayed into the filler neck, and down into the gastank.
choke cable was connected to the heater valve behind the intake, and vice versa (lol)
removed the upper half seat bolts and replaced them with a wrapping of duct tape (cheap tilt-forward)
coil 12v was wired to the backside of the throw switch on the passenger fender, and spliced into the starter ign wire, AND the non-resistor side of the wire (why?)
PO timed it on #1, couldn't get it running right so he disconnected the vac advance, turned the distibutor the wrong way, and moved the plug wires 2 posts off to make up for it.
floorboards were covered in fiberglass resin, and a total of two 6x6" patches (over the cab mount bolts nonetheless)
lastly, PO bolted a spare tire carrier to the inside of the bed, straight into the bed with self-tapping SCREWS, but built it out of 70lbs of steel bar and angle iron that could have been off of the brooklyn bridge
for my toyota, it's not nearly as long.
PO routed the exhaust against (and through) the front drivers spring hanger, between the frame and spring. when going over bumps it would compress on the exhaust.
had cut holes for 5" speakers in the dash grills, only to find out the grills are 4" wide, and that the speakers caused the glovebox to not open, and the door panels to get smashed where the speakers hit
wired the horn to the body for a negative chassis ground, yet ran oem non-grounded horn.
the carb harness had the same plug, wired in a short 4" harness, with another set of plugs of the same year harness.
rear e-brake didn't work so he disconnected it at the drums, and connected the cables to the frame to keep the handle from drifting out