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[carkrazed]

Car is an escort gt, same engine as miata except dist instead of wasted spark.

I got this stumble throughout the rpm range and its worse with more of a load.

I got some funky thing goin on with AE. If I bring up the AE wizard in tuner studio while driving, the little ball never follows the AE curve. Which leads me to believe that's AE is not working at all. Could this be the stumble?

Here is my thread on the MS forum if anyone wants to look at the msq or the logs.


http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=37179

I'm not even sure if anyone on here even uses MS anymore but I figured, wtf, its worth a shot.

[Aero]

Car is an escort gt, same engine as miata except dist instead of wasted spark.

I got this stumble throughout the rpm range and its worse with more of a load.

I got some funky thing goin on with AE. If I bring up the AE wizard in tuner studio while driving, the little ball never follows the AE curve. Which leads me to believe that's AE is not working at all. Could this be the stumble?

Here is my thread on the MS forum if anyone wants to look at the msq or the logs.


http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=37179

I'm not even sure if anyone on here even uses MS anymore but I figured, wtf, its worth a shot.

I run it on my Talon.

AE shouldn't be doing anything under steady state.  The only time it should do anything is during throttle change or manifold pressure changes that occur fairly rapidly.  Its there it provide the same function as an accelerator pump in a carburetor.

You should be able to disable AE completely, which is good to do during tuning so it doesn't mess with AFR's.

I haven't started messing with TS much yet Cars been down too long. Tuned with megatune and megalogviewer before. Over the next couple weeks I'll be learning more about using TS.

[patsmx5]

Haven't looked at your logs.

Try turning off ALL acceleration enrichments. Drive it, see if that fixes it. ALso, try .020" on the plugs. My miata's stock ignition had issues at .030 Naturally aspirated.

Also, history leading up to this? Did it sit up a while? Have any moisture int he distrib. cap?

[patsmx5]

IF turning off ego control helped, then maybe your wideband is messing up. That or your target Air/fuel table is messed up. I like to keep ego on, but now that you mention it, it's off on my miata. Guess I need to turn it on, cause it's got a little hesitation right off idle.

[Aero]

Are you sure your coil dwell is correct?  I don't know anything about your ignition system, but looking at your MSQ its 2.0ms.  Is that what others run on the same coils?

Looking in your ego controls I don't think I would go with giving the controller 65% authority, but thats just me.  Which WB do you have?

[patsmx5]

I tune my car right with ego off, then turn it on and give it 5 or 10 % authority. If it's having to adjust more than 10%, your tune must be off.

What wideband do you have? Have you calibrated it recently?

I would recalibrate it, then drive it, take some datalogs, analyze them, and update your maps IF you think it's a fuel issue.

[t_cel_t]

i run the ego correction @10% authority up to 80kpa and then its off after that, its shit like a little misfire or maybe a leak in your exhaust that throws off the sensor and then it tries to correct but its not even close to being fast enough.
my tune is so close right now the ego corection is barely ever more then about 1-2%.

also your only running 2ms dwell? who told you to to that/why are you doing that?
are you controlling the coil directly from the ms? or is it going through an igniter/modual?

[Aero]

The advice above is basically what I was going to say.  I don't know what kind of dwell is proper for your setup.  If you go to high it doesn't help spark and will overheat the coil and ignitor. See if you can find out what it is stock, or at least feel the two after its been running for a while.

Something about having your ego turned on and with the high authority.  If it misfires for any reason the WB will pick up the unburned O2 in the exhaust and read lean, which will cause the EGO control to go richer.  If you are misfiring because of a rich condition, then it will go even richer. 

The VE analyze program will do exactly the same thing too. So do your best to get rid of the misfire by hand before trusting it to do to much.

[t_cel_t]

you shouldnt be running much of any correction at all.
just let the autotune do its thing. but dont romp on it or you might be picking up the peices.

[patsmx5]

You got a couple things going on that are wrong. POst up your actual msq file for the tune you're using, and I'll have a look. I looked at your lgos and it looks like fuel cut when you let up on the gas is on. I would turn that feature off such that it never cuts fuel on ya. And your RPM input is looking flaky whenever it messes up. What does your setup use for an RPM input?

[patsmx5]

You got a couple things going on that are wrong. POst up your actual msq file for the tune you're using, and I'll have a look.

Thanks bro, here it is.

http://www.mediafire.com/?4yq9h11ubsiqj19

I looked at your lgos and it looks like fuel cut when you let up on the gas is on. I would turn that feature off such that it never cuts fuel on ya.

I do have the overun fuel cut on.

 

And your RPM input is looking flaky whenever it messes up. What does your setup use for an RPM input?

Its a distributer that is exactlty the same signal output as the miata cas. I installed the normal hall/opto circuit on the board. Here are the ignition jumpers I did.

 

For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points:
Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,
Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink.
Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.

I was just reading that out of the manual and saw this:

Note for the Hall/optical/points circuit: The LED inside of the opto-isolator is fired by a signal provided by the ignition system. The pulses existing on an ignition, especially when pulled directly off of the coil primary, can spike to very high voltages. The return path of the LED is terminated to jumper pad XG1. This return path can either go directly to the board ground (by placing a jumper from XG1 to XG2), or, the return can be brought out of one of the jumper slots on the DB-37 connector (like SPR4 for pin #6), and then grounded with a separate wire on the DB-37 connector, thus isolating the ground. Note: for the ECU to work on the stimulator, then the XG1 terminal needs to be hooked to XG2, and right now we are doing stimulator testing, so install a jumper from XG1 to XG2.

Think thst could be my problem? I still have XG1 jumpered to XG2.
 
 

Turn off overrun fuel cut. Turn off the EGO correction.

Your fuel table looks like ass. Ever manually smoothed it? It's all over the place right now. That would definitely get your A/F ratios a little smoother.

You need to fix the fuel table, then figure out if your wideband is lying to you or not. Cause if it's working, TunerStudio should clean that table up on its own pretty quickly, but it seems it is not.

[Aero]

Definitely too noisy.  That causes all sorts of issues.

When tuning like he said ,turn off all the shit that will change AFRs.  Overrun fuel cut, Ego correction.

If its the same thing as the DSM/Miata, try adding this.  I'm assuming you are on a 3.0 board, you never said.


Try this for your tach problems.
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_mazda_miata.htm

The new "cap mod" turns this into a low pass filter that helps avoid misfires caused by a noisy CMP signal. Solder a length of wire to a 0.1 uF capacitor, and connect this capacitor-on-a-wire between JS8 and SG or a ground hole in the proto area.

And with MS you REALLY need to share as much as possible about your exact setup. Ms mods for things, injectors, ignition, etc There are so many damn variations possible leaving stuff out makes it damn near impossible to figure things out sometimes.

[patsmx5]

Fuel table is much better. I have a 99 miata, which had a shitty crank wheel instead of a shitty cam angle sensor. SO I have no idea about offsets. Besides, after putting the MS on, few months later I made a 36-1 trigger wheel setup and it's much beter. I run EDIS4 btw. May one day switch to letting MS read the sensor directly for some launch control/flat shit capabilities.

I can't say for sure, but I think that offset number is important. I dunno if the distributors use the same settings though. Maybe look on some escort forums for people using MS.

So hows it run now? Better, but is it fixed? Maybe go drive it and post up 8-10 minute datalog with it fully warmed up.

[patsmx5]

You run low z injectors by chance? They can cause noise if not wired up properly. SO can having the grounds messed up. Ask me how I know.... Tach signal looks to get noisy, longer datalogs would help to identify them. If you do a long log,a nd get a reset, it shows up as a straight red line in the log, so finding resets is easy. If it resets, every signal value goes to 0 for that moment in time. IE- RPM =0, TPS=0, MAP=0, etc.

Also, try looking at the engine running at night, see if it has any sparks jumping around from the ignition system. Being that it sat up, I would try a new distributor cap and rotor just for the hell of it.

[asx]

having a 0-15 trigger offset runs your timing in "This Cylinder" mode. basically it limits the amount of advance you can run and is theoretically less accurate. There is some deadzone where you're not supposed to put the trigger angle and 60 is on the other side of it. It's all in the msextra docs.

[t_cel_t]

did you even check your advance with the spark set to '10'?
i had a hell of a time getting mine right, harbor freight timing lights suck donkey cock by the way

and the launch control is sweet, well i think its sweet my clutch doesnt

[92CXyD]

Good info here guys .

Makes me think about MS on my '82 GT 302 

[asx]

and the launch control is sweet, well i think its sweet my clutch doesnt

Fuck yeah it is.
My brother's Jackie Chan turbo Too-fawty
KA-T 240sx Megasquirt Launch control & Flatshift

[patsmx5]

FWIW, My miata liked NGK wires, nothing else. It's the OEM wire, and they last 20-30K miles before they're shot. I dunno how the ignition system is on your car, but on a miata, you just gap the plugs down to .020 and it works fine. But all the miata guys think you need .040" gap for some reason, so they spend a few hundred on the ignition system for nothing.

Also, have you pulled the cap off the distributor yet? 1 drop of moisture in their can cause pure hell.

[Aero]

If you end up going to an external coil and ignitor the DSM coil and ignitor is pretty damn powerful. You should be able to get one super cheap too. Pretty easy to setup to work with the MS too.

[patsmx5]

haha, told ya these things are picky about wires.

[patsmx5]

BP's flow like shit, you gotta boost the hell out of em to make power. What exhaust are you running? Could be restictive.

I gotta redo my exhaust soon and crank the boost on mine. You running a stock motor?

[Joseph Davis]

I've always wondered, is there any difference worth noting between 323 GTX and Capri XR2 longblocks?

[Joseph Davis]

ty

[mrgreengenes]

I've always wondered, is there any difference worth noting between 323 GTX and Capri XR2 longblocks?

In the US, the engines are identical. Both the capri and the gtx have the B6T. Which for some reason have beefier rods than any of the BP's except the GTR.

In slant eye land, the gtx had the BPT, which is identical to the NA BP, except for lower compression, different cams, and a different intake manifold.

the head is different too.  mazada figured they needed to limit torque so they cast in a raised port floor and choked up the bowl...  found this out from hayward performance, who did a BPT head for my shop, he sent pictures of all the milled out aluminum from porting, it was a HUGE pile!

The intake manifold also has the port floor raised. 

neat-o
phil