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[danz]

I had the parts, so I figured Id try it to see how it would work.

Turns out three of the 4 bolt holes line up.  Perfect.  Thats enough for me.

The PRB IM has a weird little bypass pocket.  I found the perfect little thing to plug it.  Its the shifter bushing kit for the acura/hondas.  It has 4 o-rings and a steel sleeve, fits perfectly into the hole and plugs it right up after you punch out the freeze plug.

I used a bolt and nut with some crush washers to seal the hole in the middle.  Some weld would work too.

Use Permatex gray very very thin layer for your gasket.  Maybe slot the bolt holes out a little to completely seal the IACV port in the TB (or fill with JB weld) and to center TB a little better.  Id say its at 95% right now, could be a hair better.

Anyways heres the pics.  All I need to do now is drill and tap for a remove IACV plate.

Heres the plug.



LS TB on the PRB IM.  three of four bolts right there.  Throttle cable goes under the IM.



No overlap.



Inside view.

[turbohf]

i did this a while back too. there is little to no information on it out there. i was 98% sure i knew someone that had done it, and i got the parts for free. just filled everything with epoxy.

[danz]

Solution to iacv.

Putting in a little more work on the TB/IM situation.

Looks like I should be able to build a bracket and redrill a few holes to get the K series IM on the F22 head.  Should be pretty easy.




As for the TB and IACV, I tapped the TB where the IACV air port is, since its going to be blocked off by the K series IM TB flange.

Now, I will route this air line to a remote IACV plate, mount the IACV plate to that, and then re-route the air back to the IM plenum through a hole I will drill and tap, once I decide where the best place will be (clearance issues mean I will wait until the IM is on the head in the engine bay before I decide).

11/32" drill bit for 1/8ths 27TPI NPT.




Tap about half way down.

Should thread in about half way by hand.



Probably end up using these sweet fittings I got from Greg @ Go-Autoworks.com.  Love his stuff.



And heres an inside view of the IACV air port in the TB, and where I've tapped into it for the remote IACV plate.



Put in some more work on the remote IACV situation.

Fabbed up a remote plate.  Marked the holes for the bolts with a pencil, drilled with 17/64ths drill bit, tapped to M8x1.25, slid the bolts in, painted the gasket, bolted it up, dropped the plate off, drew a cross through the middle and there you see it.



Kitchen machine shop! lol



Drilled the two holes for the air ports with 11/32nds, tapped with 1/8th NPT.



More GO-AUTOWORKS LLC - [url=http://WWW.GO-AUTOWORKs.COM]WWW.GO-AUTOWORKs.COM[/url] sweet air fittings, good to 300psi or something silly. lol.



IACV bolted up to remote plate.





All hooked up!  I drilled a 11/32nds hole in the bottom of the PRB IM, and tapped it for 1/8th NPT.  Of course I will shorten the lines.  It looks like I should be able to mount the IACV plate under the IM away from everyones eyes.  Its pretty ugly!

[crxvtec91]

I may just steal the idea when im ready

[danz]

Do it up man!  It might even be easier if you use a D series TB with an IACV bolted to the TB, like Y7's IIRC and the newer junk.

Also, got all 4 bolts in!  Super easy just marked "approx" where I thought the bolt would go, 11/32nds drill bit to the rescue again, and there we go!

[HiProfile]

I'm not sure why I never considered nylon tube for the IACV - i have a bunch of those fittings & tubing already! Thanks for the pics of the TB modding, looks much easier than making an adapter plate.

[HiProfile]

Here's my remote IACV setup plumbed with the same tubing. I am using the cavity next to the TB bore like Honda intended for the IACV air. The plate between the manifold & TB seals it on the one side using a K20A gasket, and seals every bit of the TB on the other with a B-series gasket. Without it there is a section where the seal is paper-thin. The plate was bored on a throttle body boring jig I made, so it's exactly 65mm to match the PRB TB inlet size.

[danz]

Sick dude.  Only thing I can see that might possibly cause issues is the length of the tubes.  IIRC Weir did the approx the same thing and had issues and had to either shorten the lines or enlarge them.  Send him a PM?  Let me know how it works.

[danz]

It works!  Up and running.  I will be upgrading to a 70mm soon.

Down side is the push lock hose is too small and the IACV cant keep up when cold with the big cam.  Adding larger hoses soon.

[HiProfile]

Nice IAT! I drilled 3 holes into the plenum in front of the #1 runner. I chamfered the center hole so the o-ring would seal decently, then taped the outer holes & sealed the threads with Hondabond.

I think the easier way for an NA motor would be to extend the wires & an OBD2 IAT put into the intake tube.

[danz]

Yeah that was to get home on a Sunday at 11pm.  You see in the 2nd pic, theres no IAT there.  I relocated it to the intake pipe, super easy, drilled one hole, and use two self tapping screws!  Doesnt even need to seal, just keep large stuff out.  Hehe.



Also worth noting is I am not using the IACV with the relocation plate.  I grabbed another IACV, tapped the "exit" side of the air chamber for 1/8th NPT, screwed the largest diameter 1/8th NPT barbed fitting I could find in there, and left the "intake" side  open to atmosphere (it has a screen on it).  I used a hose about 6 inches long, where as there was about 20 inches of hose before with the 2x push locks.   It will idle up to 1500rpm now when warm, but still only about 1000rpm cold, and it needs to be about 1500rpm when cold.

[turbohf]

did i miss something? whats up with the thermostat housing?

[danz]

What cha mean?  It attaches to the intake manifold on stupid F22A's so I had to put it somewhere!! lol!!!