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[HiProfile]

This will make a 16-bin chip socket - 16 freaking fuel/ign maps in your car at once!. The "16timer" uses an AM29F040B 4mbit chip & 16-possition BINARY-ENCODED switch to access 16 memory locations in the chip. It can be used in any ecu that can use a 29C256 (256kbit Hondas) chip, and 128/512kbit chip ecu's if you change certain things. GREAT for Crome/BRE/etc users that don't have an Ostrich so they can try multiple fuel and timing maps VERY quickly.

Its very simple and cheap to make. As long as you follow the diagram, use the BAT file code, and a binary switch ("real" hexadecimal-encoded), it will work perfect. The picture shows the parts needed - four 10k resistors, a 32-pin socket, 27 single-row header pins, 16-possition binary-encoded switch, a small section of proto-board, and 1st aid if needed (I always burn myself). Then whatever tools you use to cut wire & solder, plus a little bit of motivation.

Building the 16-timer:
(FYI I'll refer to both the 28-pin ecu-side, as well as the 32-pin chip-side of the sockets.) I only had 28-pin sockets, so I hacked an extra up to make a 32-pin socket. For the 16-timer, you move the ecu's VCC pin (ecu's pin #28, under the chip's #30) to the chip's #32 VCC pin with a wire. Do not let the ecu's VCC pin #28 touch the chip's pin #30, I simply folded the upper socket's pin over. Then put a wire on that folded socket pin, chip's pin #30. That wire along with pins #1,2,3 go to that binary switch as shown, as well as to the VCC pin. The 4 wires to the VCC pin must have a 10k ohm resistor on them like in the picture. Those 4 pins help select the right memory spot on the chip. Also do not let the chip's pin #3 touch the ecu's pin #1; fold the socket pin, or don't use a header pin under it. Last you wire the ground pin on the switch back to the ecu's ground pin #14, which is the chip's pin #16.

Building the 2-timer:
For the 2-timer, it's similar. You fold the chip socket's pin #1 up so it doesn't touch the ecu. Wire that pin on the socket back to pin #28 VCC with a 10k ohm resistor (I just use the resistor legs, no wire), then over to a switch. The other side of the switch goes to ecu ground pin #14, OR any decent ground on your vehicle. The later makes a 1-wire 2-timer. IIRC with the chip's #1 pin grounded (switch on), it reads from the 2nd half of the chip.


Pictures:












Now for the BIN-building - its very simple. To make the BAT file, just make a new TXT file, paste the code below in it, then rename with a .BAT file extension. I have it set so I can just add a letter/number in front of the BINs' names to make it quick. So your "0bin1.bin" is for the first possition (0 on the hex switch's face), and "fbin16.bin" is for the last possition (F on the hex switch's face). I have them backwards in the file because I used a hex switch that uses the 'real' layout; you'd have to swap the order if your switch uses the 'complementary' layout. To make it simple, just build the big BIN with 15 working bins, then for the "F" BIN use one with double the fuel. Start in any possition besides 0 and F, then turn it to those two. Following what I have here ('real' layout), your engine will sputter on possition "F".

rename x4mbit.bin.ol2 x4mbit.bin.ol3
rename x4mbit.bin.ol1 x4mbit.bin.ol2
rename x4mbit.bin x4mbit.bin.ol1
copy /b f*.bin+e*.bin+d*.bin+c*.bin+b*.bin+a*.bin+9*.bin+8 *.bin+7*.bin+6*.bin+5*.bin+4*.bin+3*.bin+2*.bin+1* .bin+0*.bin x4mbit.bin


The reason I thought this up was because Moates has an expensive version for domestics, but not Hondas. This will help maximize your time on the dyno if you don't have an ostrich, or just have an e-cutout or something. FYI this is my write-up from the old HMT, but edited to be more clear.

[92CXyD]

nice  ;D

[michigan_soler]

does this thing fit right into the zif then... or do you have to do a bunch of other crazy-ness?

[HiProfile]

It depends on a few things. The header pins I used are regular size, which are a bit too long & thick. It does fit fine into the bigger Aries ZIF, but doesn't really close in the small blue zif.

What I do is take a cheap-o socket, shove it onto the 16timer base, then that fits perfect into a ZIF. You could order a chip socket with the long legs instead of the header pins, that would work like normal.

However... if you're using a 32 pin 4mbit chip, you'll want the 32 pin Aries ZIF anyways. Its pointless to take the whole 16timer out if you still have to pull the chip. I don't think you can program the chip while its in the 16timer.