You can tune Cobb stuff, only you have to pay them dollars to do so.
If you get a Tactrix cable and free software, you will be very surprised by the capabilities of those ECUs. You'll spend a lot of time researching codes to determine which are symptoms of the tune being off (needs tuning) and which are symptoms of something wrong (needs fixing before tuning), but the tune itself is straightforward.
Two things to pay attention to:
1) ECU relearn after you flash/reset the ECU and how it affects ignition timing. Your timing map is like the OBD2 ITR and P2P; it's a minimum timing map and then there is a map of additional advance that is gradually added in if there is no KS activity. It takes the ECU a few miles to relearn itself although there are also shortcuts to relearn (
Here you go), so you can't trust the IAM right off and need a little bit of fooling around to become accustomed to how the ECU behaves... schedule the car for a whole day and do nothing else, take it slow. I think everything is covered in the link I provided, ask for clarification if needed.
2) These cars have failure internal wastegates. The "17.5 psi tune" s1mpl3x speaks of means the car spools to 17 with barely a spike to 17.5, and then tapers hard to 11 psi. People seem all crazy about replacing the factory EBC solenoid, but in my (admittedly limited) experience that's not the problem as they are good to 20-ish stock, and the aftermarket ones taper too. The air bleed solenoid that comes with the UTEC does a good job of getting boost to hit X psi and stay flat, but controlling it without a UTEC is something you'd have to devise; based off of this principle I'm pretty sure that using a four port Humphrey valve would do the trick, which makes Perrin look like a bunch of tards with how they repackage the three port as their own.