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First write-up: modifying a distributor from external coil to internal coil. Not just swapping distributors. In this case it will be 94 F22 distributor.

Parts required: External coil distributor, 18-20awg wire, small ring terminals, small spade terminals, obd1/obd2 Honda coil.

First open the distributor and find the ICM aka ignotor. It will have the wires hanging off of it. In this picture the coil has already been installed from a B18B1. Nearly all 90's obd1/obd2 distributors use the same coil and bolt right in.



The orange arrow is the wire you'll be tapping into and wiring to the positive side of the coil. The green arrow is the connector you'll be wiring to the negative side of the coil. The positive terminal on the coil is closest to the ICM, the negative is the farthest.

Cut the green wire near the grommet that seals the wire as it exits the distributor. You can leave it in the connector or remove it. Pull the rest inside through the plastic sheath to the coil.

Put a ring terminal on that wire and connect it to the negative side of the coil. To clairify, you're wiring the green wire (on the ICM/ignitor pin that's on the top nearest the coil) to the furthest terminal (negative) on the coil. In my case I borrowed the wire off of the B18B1 distributor and left the green wire hang (I put shrink wrap on it afterwards). I recommend shrink wrap on the ring terminal ends to prevent problems.

Last you'll tap into the black/yellow wire that's on the middle top terminal on the ICM/ignitor. You'll run that lead to the nearest terminal on the coil (positive). I used some OEM wire from a harness, crimped it onto the ring terminal, then soldered it to the wire to keep it very secure.



Toss on a P54 distributor cap (many OBD1/2 Accord/Civic/Integras) and you're done.





Second write-up: adding a tach/rpm wire to a JDM small-plug 8-wire distributor (H23A & F20B).

Parts required: JDM 8-wire distributor, 18-20awg wire, small spade terminal, obd1/obd2 Honda coil, 2-wire distributor clip (or whatever you plan on using if not obd1).



Locate the ICM aka ignitor. On it there may be an output tab for the tach wire. It will be on the side by itself, nearest the coil - just above the orange arrow in the picture below. Crimp an insulated clip to a wire (preferably BLUE), clip it on it, then run it out of the distributor. I was able to drill through the rubber grommet using a drill bit ~25% larger than the wire, drilling at high speed with a slow feed rate. Put a screwdriver head or metal on the other side, since it will pull through fast and could cut a wire. In the picture I used a green wire from an F22 dizzy. Oddly enough, the blue wire is usually discolor to a green color inside the distributor.



Now you'll have 9 wires coming out of the distributor. At this point you might want to run the blue wire through the plastic sheath that the other wires run through. Connect the rogue blue wire you just added to the blue wire on the 2-pin distributor wire (or whatever clip you're using). You now have a tach/rpm wire.

Once that's done, you'll want to depin the black/yellow wire on the 8-pin clip. It may have a different color rubber insulator than the other wires, and it will be in a corner hole. Cut the spade terminal off and solder it to the 2-wire clip's black/yellow wire. You're now done and ready to use a low-milage distributor.

Note: you may not have that extra side pin on the ignitor. If this is the case, I've read that you can instead hook it to the negative side of the coil. I have not tried this, but that's how aftermarket tachs can be added to almost any car, so it should work. In my case I had the ignitor tab, and got the tach to work on an OBD1 engine harness.