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[walter]

i hope make the hole for wg this days.

i will try to install pedal foot soon too, it's kinda hard to weld the head flange with 304shc10..

[malichite]

Looks bitchen!

[Toysrme]

key is being able to vary your travel speed. gotta get moving fast so you dont burn it up. make sure you are able to keep your travel speed up and make sure the filler & stainless are both clean and that there is the right amount of argon flowing.

depending on the conditions (what pressure does the regulator supply at 50-100psi is common, what type of airflow are you fighting? does the joint naturally trap the shielding gas or does the gas roll out and swirl air back into it from turbulence?)
i run 5-8lpm = 12-16cfh with a gas lens
if no gas lens 15-20cfh = 7-10lpm without

personally i go lower end to save money. provided the arc is stable & there is no electrode or weld contamination.

toss the 1/16" electrodes for 3/32.
trick to flanges (fillet welds) is that the flange will take more heat input than the pipe will take, and it requires more heat input.
WITHOUT angling your torch OR moving it off the joint (outside of the bead width) heat the flange. When it has a molten puddle move towards the pipe. When they both are molten, as the get close to teach other (or merge themselves) give a dab of filler rod. repeate elsewhere.


angles should remain the same. for the fillet welds (flange) that means the torch at a 45* angle. from there you rock your torch back 10-20* for a push angle so you can travel. filler rod runs parallel to the joint and is raised to a 20* angle.

looking good so far.

[walter]

thx!

Toysrme, i was welding on 9-10lph , idk what you means about airflow im fighting.

do u meas i should use 3/32 rods? i was using 1/16 (1.6mm) with tungsten 1.6mm too.

yeah iwas looking how to well good flange with pipe, you are right, but i should practice a bit more.

45º? i was using like 70-75º or si fo the torch and the filer like 20º or so. from what i was learning you shuold make 90º between torch and rods..

[Toysrme]

airflow, as in drafts, winds, turbulence.

here's a leet ass diag i drew you.




pink is your electrode
blue is your filler - around 15-20* for normal welding. if you are using a lay-wire technique the wire shallows up alot as you press it downward into the joint and run over it.
orange describes the throat height (thickness of the throat of your weld) its minimum size is equal to the smallest thickness of your base metals - in your case the pipe, not the flange
red shows you what your torch angle can become when walking the cup. you MUST be careful if you let your cup-walking angle slip too shallow like this. the distance between the electrode and the material becomes very small and you will have cross-contamination - assuming you don't drag the electrode into the puddle!


the best thing to do is to eyeball what you are doing then lay a triangular speed square/angle finder into a joint. what most people find out is that their eyeballed angles are a good 20-30* off when they are starting out and it can trip them up.
90* between the filler & torch, eh, depends on what you are doing. you're not going to see 90* between the torch & filler under the helmet welding so dont worry about how that works out.

work on angles, and having the correct positioning. (not just what angle you're working on but WHERE exactly you're working at)

[Toysrme]

should also give one more warning about excessive push angles (laying the torch back too far). you start to suck air from behind the torch under the bottom of your nozzle & it contaminates the weld.

[walter]

great! thx!

[walter]

today



done:



i was wondering if you guys use a kind of fluid or so for clean all welding stuff..

[malichite]

scotchbrite disk on a die grinder or a while wheel on a bench grinder

[walter]

i see, i use this: