Forum > Engine Management
an electronic det can that works ~~~~NSFW~~~~
rawr:
Id like to check the freq response if you do build one but i dont want to get busted at work :mexi:
HiProfile:
If it kicks ass for a person who can make plumbing hardware work, why calibrate it? Why build something 5x the price?
Its like spending $2k on a turbo with ceramic ball bearings, extended tips, anti-surge, dual scroll, etc, when an old hx35 will already win the races for you. Just sayin.
nock:
--- Quote from: HiProfile on December 13, 2012, 01:04:15 AM ---If it kicks ass for a person who can make plumbing hardware work, why calibrate it? Why build something 5x the price?
Its like spending $2k on a turbo with ceramic ball bearings, extended tips, anti-surge, dual scroll, etc, when an old hx35 will already win the races for you. Just sayin.
--- End quote ---
if a regular det can works then use it. some people just use the plugs and dont listen at all. this is just lounder then a regular det can and isnt a total fail like all the other diy electronic ones.
rawr:
--- Quote from: HiProfile on December 13, 2012, 01:04:15 AM ---If it kicks ass for a person who can make plumbing hardware work, why calibrate it? Why build something 5x the price?
Its like spending $2k on a turbo with ceramic ball bearings, extended tips, anti-surge, dual scroll, etc, when an old hx35 will already win the races for you. Just sayin.
--- End quote ---
Because i calibrate shit for a livimg and i consistantly see the weirdest failures from accelerometers. When an accel becomes fucked, they are severely fucked and are not a reliable device for any measurement. Examples being putting out stupid high and low outputs at random areas in the freq range that someone could mistake for preignition but it is not. You also need to know the resonant frequency to make sure you are nowhere near it or youre also going to get nothing but fucked up readings. An accel rated for low frequency use i have seen resonant freq's as low as 3 kHz. If you dont know the frequency response or the senstivity level you could easily be clipping the accel out before acheiving a meaningful reading (even if you lower the charge volts, it doesnt matter) or have an accel that is so neutral that you will not pick up anything ( i dont think most higher range shock accels will pick up engine knock). Mounting is another serious issue that will cause artifical noise. Theres a lot of things to consider before you just throw one on and trust it enough to get accurate readings.
nock:
pictures...
this is a close up of the 33 ohm resistor that needs to be added
the wires from the knock sensor hook up the same as the original sensor, the sheild connects to bat-
i put a ring terminal on the sheild so eveything inclueding the block is bonded
these are some other sensors ive tested ford and dodge, but the dodge seemed to need a little smaller resister. i stick with the bosch because its wide band and there all the same electricaly.
A-dapter kit
these are some of my other diy internet failures
here is a shitty scematic of the hf stethiscope
to test it i bolted it to the back of a tweater and played some random shit off the internet, this is what i heard...
it works im tellen ya
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