:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: bouncinofftherevlimiter on June 03, 2009, 09:30:14 AM
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Here is my car, after procrastinating making this thread for over a year, its finally here.
the car is currently blown up, the spun the middle main bearing while being raped at the strip. maybe next week ill make it to the junkyard to get me another F22 bottom end.
the car is a 95 Accord EX coupe. bought the car with no motor or trans for $200.
the motor:
stock F22A bottom end
F20B sir-t top end
JDM H22 rods
Wiseco 4g63 stroker pistons
King bearings
ARP head studs
Homebuilt ramhorn
Dying Holset HX35
Ching Chong 38mm wastegate
Home made "whitey bend" 3" downpipe
Ching Chong rfl blow off
Evo 560 injectors Delphi 780cc injectors Precision 880cc injectors
Ebay intercooler
XTD stage 3 clutch LSD dragger clutch
M2B4 LSD trans
3 bar map
Chipped P28 on crome, tuned by me Sewell tuned on EcTune
Ebay alum radiator
GC coilovers
Konig 17" rims with 215/45/17 (front tires in pics are drag tires)
accord wagon front rotors and calipers
the car is (well was before it spun a bearing) was running 12lb boost, i was waiting to turn boost up until i had head studs, 3 bar, and bigger injectors. it ran high 13s at around 109 IIRC. the car would not come off the line, it either hopped horribly, or came off the line like a limp dick.
future plans for the car include, new bottom end, head studs, 3 bar map, boost up to 16-18 lbs. home made traction bars, and slicks. hopefully the car will be in the 12s, i dont think it is too far out of reach.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi302.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fnn93%2Fhot_rod_lincoln_8%2FIMG_0054.jpg&hash=9cc27624477e0720a056ab6982fad85a84320129)
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and a few porn pics, just to follow the old protocol...
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Solid first post!!!!
BTW what was your old user name?
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Excellent first post. You win five internetz sir.
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You used electrical tape to hold your gauges to the colum.
You belong here. welcome.
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i had the same user name on the OHMT, i was mostly a lurker, and just never got around to getting this post made....
i think i had maybe 5 posts in a year, i pm'ed a few people but that was pretty much the extent of it.
the electrical tape is holding the wideband display, i wasnt planning on mounting it perm. but i had to do something
cause i couldnt get freelog to work.
thanks for the welcoming.
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Nice to see another Accord.
At least I know what my F22 bottom end is good for now.
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G SERIES NIGGGGAAAZZZZ
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i think the demise of my motor was the fact i was turning 7800 rpm...
next motor, dropping rev limit to 6500 and upping boost!
spiker, i finally made this post, i was hoping you would comment...
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My stock F22b1 saw 6900 reghularloy... If your still making power up there dont be shy, but I wouldnt push it mauch fruther with some oiling system help...
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the motor was a 100k mile junkyard special. when i built the motor i put a fresh honda oil pump and water pump, and the f20 top end.
the car was fine shifting on the street at between 6500 and 7000, i dont think it liked running close to 8000 with old ass bearings and whatnot.
what kind of oiling upgrade can do on the next motor? i want to build another F20B, the one i have came with the car and had spun rod bearing.
I also have a set of forged wiseco pistons for the F20, but i really dont want to put much cash into this car.
Im really looking foward to getting it running again, ill try to get a motor this weekend.
how much boost do you think the stock head bolts can take before i lift the head. The car is running factory F20B bolts and honda f22 head gasket
copper sprayed. im a little apprehensive about going anything over 12. i have a 3 bar, but im waiting to put it on till i know im going to crank the boost.
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i started to tear into the car. the parts are starting to accumlate now. so far the rods, pistons, crank and bearings have showed up. im still waiting on injectors, 3 bar, head studs and head gasket. also i have a couple unexpecteds, the rear motor mount it trashed, and also the clutch turned to shit in a short time (i shouldnt be suprised, ching chong meow FTL....)
the motor is going to be even more of a clusterfuck hybrid, as if it wasnt already. i have to give credit to ashb82 on h-t for giving me the idea about this. here is the link,http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957&highlight=h22%2Brods%2B4g63 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957&highlight=h22%2Brods%2B4g63) i think its fucking genius, there is another WELL RESPECTED (by some) member here that agrees with me (cough:spiker:cough)
the motor is still retaining the stock F22 block. I scored a minty stock F22 crank out of the local shityard for $20. the rods are stock H22A P13 rods from sewell. The pistons are Wiesco Evo 8 2.3 stroker pistons. the head is still the PCB F20B dual cam head.
here is the motor about to be pulled out.
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here it is on the ground, took like 2 hours and about 6 beers! ;D
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the engine bay is a mess, im going to clean the fuck out of it, tie some shit out of the way, and maybe do some sort of mild wire tuck. i dont want to put a ton of time into it, i want to get it back together in time to get it tuned.
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The M2B4 JDM h22 LSD tranny removed
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the piece of shit jackie chan XTD stage 3 clutch, 1100 miles on it. no signs of excessive heat, and i really didnt abuse it a fuckload...
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Wiesco evo 8 stroker pistons!
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P13 H22 rods
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my $20 junkyard score. i also got a new timing cover and balancer cause mine had a huge chip in it.
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i will continue to update as i progress.
now for everyones favorite part....
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that is all for now...
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the rods are at the machine shop getting reconditioned, and i got to thinking, the stock P13 rods are pressed pin and the pistons are floating pin, i guess i got two options, either get the new pistons pressed onto the rods or have them bore and rebush the rods.
what is the better solution here? the machine shop said they can do both, the price of boring and bushing is quite a bit more, is it really worth the extra cost?
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Well well well, that's pretty impressive so see high redlines on an f22 block.
I'm digging the setup, how much PSI did that turbo see daily? Did you ever get it dynoed?
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Just buy some rods there cheap. While your at it port the oil pump.
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Well well well, that's pretty impressive so see high redlines on an f22 block.
I'm digging the setup, how much PSI did that turbo see daily? Did you ever get it dynoed?
the high redline i was running before was a little excess, it was the cause of the crank bearing demise. the new set-up is going to have a more favorable R/S ratio. i prolly will still keep the revs down casue i want a certain amount of reliability with the set-up.
was 12lbs, ran pretty good, never dynoed. ill prolly get new numbers with the new set-up. im going to run as much boost as i can with pump gas being my only limiting factor.
Just buy some rods there cheap. While your at it port the oil pump.
i got good cheap stock H22s and they are more than enough for what i am going to do. i plan to port the oil pump, and also shim it like 1/16. im also going to blend the bowls and just clean up the ports in the head. also the intake is going to get a slight porting.
i talked to the machine shop, they suggested i just have the pins pressed, they have a rod heater and they are only charging like $3/rod. they are also checking the rods for roundness and going to true them if necessary. i picked a shitty weekend, cause the machine shop is going to be off till monday, so i wont have the piston/rod assy till tues or wed. that will give me plenty of time to get the crank in, all porting done, rings gapped, and all that good shit.
tonight im headed to the garage to tear down the motor and give it a thorough cleaning. My goal is to get the block ready for reassembly, if not started re-assembly. i have to hone the cylinders and get everything spotless before i start reassembly, or maybe ill start on porting the oil pump, heads, intake and what not...
will continue to update as more work is completed.
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Got the motor apart tonight, and the block is fucked. The middle main journal is way fucked in the top bearing half of the block.
Tomorrow it's bright and early to the yard, hope the block I robbed the crank from is still there. They only wanted another $20 for the entire motor, I should have taken it when I had the chance.
No pics, can't link them from iPhone, I'll get some tomorrow when I feel like sitting down and doing this from my laptop.
That is all for tonight. Early to bed, going to yard to hopefully get that block, and moving into new house.
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Save those pistons for me!!! i didn't have a chance to press them off, i wanted to get the rods out to you asap.
Hopefully you'll be able to get that block, i'll be in town from the 8th till the 18th, and then again sometime around 1st of august.
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How much power are you planning on running? I wonder how much the stock h22 rods will be able to handle.
What's the specs on those pistons? I'm assuming the compression height is shorter since you'll be using the longer H22 rods.
Good build man.
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The h22 rods are extremely strong, i've made 500 on them and thats at 8400rpms, good rods are rated by rpms. The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
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Save those pistons for me!!! i didn't have a chance to press them off, i wanted to get the rods out to you asap.
Hopefully you'll be able to get that block, i'll be in town from the 8th till the 18th, and then again sometime around 1st of august.
ill get them back to you, no problem! i hope itll be done so i can have you tune it but i dunno with work and waiting for parts. might have to go for the august session.
How much power are you planning on running? I wonder how much the stock h22 rods will be able to handle.
What's the specs on those pistons? I'm assuming the compression height is shorter since you'll be using the longer H22 rods.
Good build man.
im going to push as much as the turbo can do on pump gas, itll prolly be alot of torque, not so much with hp. im going to keep the rev down, which consequently will hurt hp, but it is a strictly street car daily driver, that might see the strip a couple times a year.
the pistons with the H22 rods end up .100 in the hole. i dont remember the exact compression ht, but ashb82 did an excellent write up on the link i provided above. all the credit goes to him.
The h22 rods are extremely strong, i've made 500 on them and thats at 8400rpms, good rods are rated by rpms. The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
if you made 500 on them at 8400, then i should be golden. they say double the rpm quadruple the wear, and the forces at that rpm will be far higher than ill ever excert on them. i feel confident in my decision. they look pretty good, l was happy with my choice. thanks for coming through for me.
now that that is taken care of another progress update. i got the block at the local jy, the rest of the F22B2 for another $20. it looks excellent. i pulled it apart, it had decent cyl. walls. i ran a hone through it and the cyls are beautiful.
the pistons and rods are going to be done wed. but it looks like im going out of town tomorrow. i got the block scrubbed, the cyls honed, crank installed with new king bearings (main bng clearances at .0015 smallest and .002 largest) crank journals polished, and started cleaning engine bay.
i also stumbled on a set of brand new precision 880s for mega cheap, so now i have those, delphi 780s and evo8 560s. im selling the 780s locally, and the evos im looking to sell also. ill do a for sale thread sometime, but for now if anyone is interested PM me.
i also acquired a set of head studs and head gasket. all i have to order now is a clutch. im still unsure on that situation. the pressure plate is still good as is the flywheel, but the disc is shit. im looking around to see if i can find a good disc or complete kit for decent money. i dont want to be getting more junk though, any ideas welcome.
i need to port the oil pump and clean some more stuff before i can get the bottom end together, just time isnt on my side right now. i also lost a bet this weekend, and now i have to paint my wastegate, BOV, compressor housing, and valve cover purple. i get to pick the purple though, i think im going with a plum crazy purple. for what it is i think the color will go with my stupid factory blue fairly well. the bet was i put a pound of tannerite in a 55 gal oil barrel, and suspended it with wire, and hit it with the first shot. it fucked the drum up pretty good, blew a hell of a hole in it. i also set some slab wood on the top and it launched the shit out of it. i was impressed. i also put in a gallon of gas. i bet the shock from the tannerite would cause the gas to ignite, and he said it wouldnt. i lost...
pics of said barrel when i upload them to the computer.
well hopefully when i get back everything will be waiting for me and it hopefully goes together well.
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pistons and rods are done, the 3 bar is on its way, the 780s are here, i also scored the brand new 880 precisions, and they are on their way. i got fucked out of a set of head studs, they got sold out from under me...
all i need to do is get home and spend some time working on it. this week has been hectic, im on a well in the middle of nowhere, with no service for phone or computer, and im on site on standby, so im working 14 hour days while sitting in the truck. it is a 11 stage horiz. well, and the frac crew was on the 4th zone yesterday and the perf gun broke the cable and fell into the hole, and now they have to fish with coil tubing. at best the live perf will be out of hole sunday afternoon then resume the frac monday. at best ill be home like the 23rd or so.
FML... at least im hourly and the check is going to be awesome!
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Keep up the good work, shit should rip when done!
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i really hope so!
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Buy a name brand clutch
cdm clutches=failure
Again if it has moveable parts the chinesse cant make it work
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Buy a name brand clutch
cdm clutches=failure
Again if it has moveable parts the chinesse cant make it work
i see that now, im looking into a few decent different ones. my land yacht with the torque of the F i imagine will be very hard on the clutch, time to step up...
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if your looking for a new clutch hook up with these guys O0
http://lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=LSD01&Screen=CTGY&Ref=&Car=AC,HO,SS&Prod=L200&Pname=LSD%20Clutch%20Kits&Category_Code=L200-Honda (http://lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=LSD01&Screen=CTGY&Ref=&Car=AC,HO,SS&Prod=L200&Pname=LSD%20Clutch%20Kits&Category_Code=L200-Honda)
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thats where i was looking, ill get with mike and see what can offer
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Where does Mike at LSDmotorsports get his clutches made anyways? I've heard alot of good about them and own one myself but haven't seen what it's got yet.... :(
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i finally have a little update to make. ive been very busy with a wedding when i was home last and work, we are swamped (awesome for paycheck, shitty for progress on the car.)
the last time i was home i did get some progress made, i got the bottom end all together. it rotates now! and everything spec'd out awesome and it went together quite smoothly.
i should be home within the next week, i want to get it all together and partially broke in, then its time to up the boost and see what it can do.
here are a few pics of the bottom going together.
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ok, well more updates as the build progresses. hope to have it up and running by mid next week.
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first off let me say two things, first off IT RUNS!!!! and secondly tom sewell is a tuning genius! i cant say enough about how impressed with everything about sewell, the car runs smoother than stock on 880s!
we had a tuning day in spring creek yesterday. tom came up and tuned my brother-in-laws old school late 90s style ricer-riffic CRX, d16a1, big cam, header, high comp. this car is a 90s throwback, body kit, yellow and blue everything, a dash that would make widebody jealous.
the next car was my friends 99 civic coupe. d16z6, ching chong 57 trim, nig nog log, eagle/vitera. the car is quite halfassed, or something along those lines, he is tuned for 17 as of now.
then came my slut. ive been busting my ass for the last three days trying to get it together for when tom comes up. it was together as of tuesday but had some minor issues. i fixed all the bullshit and it was ready to go. Tom uploaded a tune from his old H22 and i fired it up. immediately it idled as smooth as could be! very impressive...
everything turned out good so we went to start tuning. after a minor issue (ran out of gas!) we started tuning. This is where Tom really impressed me. the car drives amazing. from the idle to tip-in to vtec crossover it is all silky smooth. we started cranking boost and ran into an issue. it got to the point where i removed the hose to the wastegate and only could get a spike to 16lb. we both came to the conclusion that the hoslut is dying, which sucks cause i was looking foward to 500... oh well, im going to get another 35, run a 40 compressor and turn it up.
i wish i would have some pics to post but i was busy trying to finish my car and all that good shit, so i really didnt have time.
CLIFFNOTES: car is back together, runs, sewell tuned, turbo taking shit, tom is the man!
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what mm are those pistons! :D im looking to do a f23 bottom end. since my H took a dump and no point in redoing it w/o sleeves and im on the cheap this year.
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How high are you revving it?
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Shitty to hear about your holset. Why no just buy a rebuilt kit from rons turbo service, and sent the wheels to him, and rebuild your turbo. It will be cheaper than buying a new one and your shits already built to this turbo.
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Ok you can use Evo 8 pistons for these engines?
Awesome I may see if they are cheaper than the Mahls I was thinking of using.
I was given a good clean h23 engine the engine was rebuild at a engine builder shop in my town.
But they were supplied with h22 JE pistons ( that require resleeving) and eagle rods so the engine builder guys did not trust the setup so they stopped.
I aquired the motor, tranny, motor mount (for an EG), cv-axles (for an EG), wiring harness, p14 computer (I'll probably sell on egay), and turbo mani w/ the standard 5 bolt t3 done pipe (XS powa). All from a guy who wanted a d15b8/b7 and CX tranny in his sedan so he can drive his car again.
So if I get some weisco pistons like those being used in this build I can use them in my h23 right?
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H23 is 87mm, f22 is 85.
You need to resleeve or use mahles on FRM sleeves(H series)
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Damn I was hoping another cheaper route
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cheap on H series=fail
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Glad to see you got it up running you got yours done before me so i sure you are the first to have a f22 with h22 rod 4g63 piston running. i have got so wound up trying to blow up my f22 i have put my engine on hold. but if it dont blow by winter i will put it in anyway. I have been boosting the stock f22 20 psi with my 57ar in 63ar ex turbonetics. i got a huge holset that i am putting on it this weekend if this dont blow it up i give up. I am going to the dyno cause i know the stocker is making stock engine record. for those of you that have never seen my build here is a link to it not to jack your theard or anything but i just cant tell you guys how much cheaper this is to do than using fordged f22 parts
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957)
Also keep me up to date on how the lsd clutch does
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what mm are those pistons! :D im looking to do a f23 bottom end. since my H took a dump and no point in redoing it w/o sleeves and im on the cheap this year.
85mm, i dunno if the crank is the same stroke. if the stroke is, i bet you could do the same build, but use the 86mm. you have to get evo 8 or 7 bolt dsm STROKER pistons, very important they are the strokers.
How high are you revving it?
tom has my rev limit at 8000, i havnt really revved it that high very much, with the turbo taking a shit it actually loses power cause boost is falling off. im running no signal to the wastegate, might as well not have one ;D and it only will spike to 16 and then be down to like 6-8 at that high rpm, i shift it when it starts falling off, like at 6800-7000
Shitty to hear about your holset. Why no just buy a rebuilt kit from rons turbo service, and sent the wheels to him, and rebuild your turbo. It will be cheaper than buying a new one and your shits already built to this turbo.
tom and i discussed this, and he seems to think by now the way it is acting, it prolly is going to have a damaged shaft or something gay. it spools slow then all the sudden hits, like it is dragging or something then breaks free. im beginning to wonder if the previous owner ran it low on oil. i got it off h-t for 150... so im not suprised...
Ok you can use Evo 8 pistons for these engines?
Awesome I may see if they are cheaper than the Mahls I was thinking of using.
I was given a good clean h23 engine the engine was rebuild at a engine builder shop in my town.
But they were supplied with h22 JE pistons ( that require resleeving) and eagle rods so the engine builder guys did not trust the setup so they stopped.
I aquired the motor, tranny, motor mount (for an EG), cv-axles (for an EG), wiring harness, p14 computer (I'll probably sell on egay), and turbo mani w/ the standard 5 bolt t3 done pipe (XS powa). All from a guy who wanted a d15b8/b7 and CX tranny in his sedan so he can drive his car again.
So if I get some weisco pistons like those being used in this build I can use them in my h23 right?
they are evo 8 stroker pistons. that is actually irrelevent for you anyway, cause like stated after you cant use any forged pistons with the FRM, well you can but good luck with that..
Glad to see you got it up running you got yours done before me so i sure you are the first to have a f22 with h22 rod 4g63 piston running. i have got so wound up trying to blow up my f22 i have put my engine on hold. but if it dont blow by winter i will put it in anyway. I have been boosting the stock f22 20 psi with my 57ar in 63ar ex turbonetics. i got a huge holset that i am putting on it this weekend if this dont blow it up i give up. I am going to the dyno cause i know the stocker is making stock engine record. for those of you that have never seen my build here is a link to it not to jack your theard or anything but i just cant tell you guys how much cheaper this is to do than using fordged f22 parts
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2546957)
Also keep me up to date on how the lsd clutch does
ash, all i can say is you are the man, i dont at all beleive you are thread jacking, you are the innovator of this build. mine may be running first but you assembled it first and did all the math. all my credit goes to you bud.
this is def. a shitton cheaper than f22 parts, and the dsm pistons have a hellatious ringland and the h22 rods give a much better R/S ratio. F22 parts are insane, although it looks like bisi has some decent priced stuff, i noticed that after i got all my parts.
ill let you know about the LSD clutch when i get it in... i put the shitty Egay one in casue i didnt have a new flywheel yet and i never really slipped on me so im going to run it till it wont take anymore.
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I'd recommend a good balancer. I think it's redstandardhatch (075 guy) that has an F22 in an EF, he had a few major issues with bearings until he got an ati or fluidamper.
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I'd recommend a good balancer. I think it's redstandardhatch (075 guy) that has an F22 in an EF, he had a few major issues with bearings until he got an ati or fluidamper.
I am putting one on my build thats another part i plane on buying . redstandardhatch had a solid undampered pully when he was spinning bearings. if you read up on it you will find that solid pulley no matter what the brand are know for spinning bearings or cracking oil pumps
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Sweet build man. I saw on the HT thread that you have this in a civic-- I've been wanting to throw an f22 into an eg for a while. What are your thoughts on that combo-- was it fun to drive NA? Was it worth the extra work over a standard b swap? I like the way that the f blocks carry torque when you boost them, and they seem pretty burly. What are your costs like for this build? And if you remember, what did it cost you to get the f22 into your civic?
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Sweet build man. I saw on the HT thread that you have this in a civic-- I've been wanting to throw an f22 into an eg for a while. What are your thoughts on that combo-- was it fun to drive NA? Was it worth the extra work over a standard b swap? I like the way that the f blocks carry torque when you boost them, and they seem pretty burly. What are your costs like for this build? And if you remember, what did it cost you to get the f22 into your civic?
mine is in an accord, if you look at the first post I made It shows pics of the car...
Never drove it n/a, it was boosted in every form. If I were to run it non turbo, I'd up the compression a shit ton, it would be pretty dismal in n/a form..
Mine was fairly cheap to build cause I shopped around and got lots of parts cheap or free. Swapping into civic would be fairly cheap. Mostly all you need over what I bought was mounts and axles, depending on where you shop reflects price.
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shit sorry got confused between this one and the other guy's post on ht. Definitely into it though-- my main concern about the f-series was always the cost of the internals, and the h22 rod/4g63 piston definitely fixes that. Nice to see some innovation still-- solid work
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shit sorry got confused between this one and the other guy's post on ht. Definitely into it though-- my main concern about the f-series was always the cost of the internals, and the h22 rod/4g63 piston definitely fixes that. Nice to see some innovation still-- solid work
credit all goes to ash, he came up with it, i just duplicated it
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what part of PA are you from
NWPA, I'm in spring creek, by Erie.
Ask sewell about it, it's out there!
Why what's up? Planning a PA meet sometime?
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what part of PA are you from
NWPA, I'm in spring creek, by Erie.
Ask sewell about it, it's out there!
Why what's up? Planning a PA meet sometime?
lol, i'm about an 45 to an hour south from grove city
where at, I work down that way all the time, right now I'm just off exit 1 on 79. Mostly I spend my time in the uniontown or Washington area, and work wants me to move to this area, but I'm still up in the air about it, might just take the layoff..
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have any numbers sir??
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have any numbers sir??
no dyno numbers, had it street tuned, and turbo is shit anyway. I'm getting another hx35 for now, and eventually stepping up to a 67mm.
Someday I'll strap it to the rollers and make a pull to see what it makes. Honestly to me it really dosent matter the numbers it makes, I just hope it pulls harder than the one next to me... Dynos are so subjective, and can be very misleading...
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The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
Sure, if you ignore buckling. Tensile loading at TDC of the exhaust stroke is the worst stress the rod will ever see. Highest compressive stress at BDC of the expansion stroke or at peak cylinder pressure. But the rod can buckle at a lower compressive load.
Sick build BTW
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The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
Sure, if you ignore buckling. Tensile loading at TDC of the exhaust stroke is the worst stress the rod will ever see. Highest compressive stress at BDC of the expansion stroke or at peak cylinder pressure. But the rod can buckle at a lower compressive load.
Sick build BTW
Buckling wasn't ignored, your trying to point out the exceptions. If you read my post again it says typically in the statement. Rods are rated by rpm.
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what part of PA are you from
NWPA, I'm in spring creek, by Erie.
Ask sewell about it, it's out there!
Why what's up? Planning a PA meet sometime?
Its in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone service, and 1 working pay phone in his town. Plus you have to watch out for horseshit from the amish buggies. :P
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what part of PA are you from
NWPA, I'm in spring creek, by Erie.
Ask sewell about it, it's out there!
Why what's up? Planning a PA meet sometime?
Its in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone service, and 1 working pay phone in his town. Plus you have to watch out for horseshit from the amish buggies. :P
You LOVE it! Bet you can't wait to come back up! Maybe I'll have my 450 back together by then.
Don't forget the 2 animals we hit, and I forgot to tell you I hit a deer on the way back to my apt. It was already dead and I fucking ripped it apart, there was blood, flesh, fur and shit all over. Didn't hurt the land yacht at all though.. She's a tank! Still smelled like death when I left thurs.
Typical day in spring creek....
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The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
Sure, if you ignore buckling. Tensile loading at TDC of the exhaust stroke is the worst stress the rod will ever see. Highest compressive stress at BDC of the expansion stroke or at peak cylinder pressure. But the rod can buckle at a lower compressive load.
Sick build BTW
Buckling wasn't ignored, your trying to point out the exceptions. If you read my post again it says typically in the statement. Rods are rated by rpm.
It's not just an exception. You made no mention of it, so I did. Perhaps with hondas yall don't have that problem typically, but a lot of mazdas running 3x factory power on stock engines bend and buckle rods all the time.
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The stress (force)on the rods are greatest at the bottom and top of the stroke, which is caused by rpm(acceleration). The ignition occurs after Tdc, so the load caused by combustion is typically an after thought.
Sure, if you ignore buckling. Tensile loading at TDC of the exhaust stroke is the worst stress the rod will ever see. Highest compressive stress at BDC of the expansion stroke or at peak cylinder pressure. But the rod can buckle at a lower compressive load.
Sick build BTW
Buckling wasn't ignored, your trying to point out the exceptions. If you read my post again it says typically in the statement. Rods are rated by rpm.
It's not just an exception. You made no mention of it, so I did. Perhaps with hondas yall don't have that problem typically, but a lot of mazdas running 3x factory power on stock engines bend and buckle rods all the time.
from what I have seen the factory Honda parts in the the b, h, and f are very stout. I havnt really heard of them buckling, but moreso the rod bolts letting go or the rod snapping around the big end.
Hopefully someone will chime in and provide more input. I don't have a lot of experience with these motors, but I'm speaking from what I have seen and heard from others.
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It's not just an exception. You made no mention of it, so I did. Perhaps with hondas yall don't have that problem typically, but a lot of mazdas running 3x factory power on stock engines bend and buckle rods all the time.
I would bet that the guys that are buckling the rods are turning more rpms than stock, and buckling a rod is def the exception to the norm, it doesn't happen often, you just happen to be into that exception. Even still Buckling the rod occurs at TDC (like i said before, forces greatest at top and bottom of stroke)
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buckling doesn't necessarily happen at TDC or BDC. Say 20* ATDC of the expansion stroke the forces acting on the rod are pretty high, and the rod is being loaded at an angle, not through it's centerline.
With miata engines, most DO fail from higher RPM. IT's been found that over 7500 can stretch the rods, and then they buckle. Many miata engines that are tore down for a rebuild that were reved to 7500+ are found to have at least 1 stretched rod. Several guys have pulled apart engines to find slightly buckled rods who had the revlimter around 7K and were running boost. Miata guys put down 250+ ft*lbs of torque on stock engines with turbo, some more.
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buckling doesn't necessarily happen at TDC or BDC. Say 20* ATDC of the expansion stroke the forces acting on the rod are pretty high, and the rod is being loaded at an angle, not through it's centerline.
With miata engines, most DO fail from higher RPM. IT's been found that over 7500 can stretch the rods, and then they buckle. Many miata engines that are tore down for a rebuild that were reved to 7500+ are found to have at least 1 stretched rod. Several guys have pulled apart engines to find slightly buckled rods who had the revlimter around 7K and were running boost. Miata guys put down 250+ ft*lbs of torque on stock engines with turbo, some more.
FWIW my car (if I ever repace my failure of a turbo) will put out more torque than that, hopefully a decent amount more, and turn 8000 all day long on stock h22 rods, and I don't feel that there will be any issues of buckling or stretching... The machinist I had size them didn't see it to be an issue, and the ultra cool dude above who sold them to me didn't think it would be either. I doubt he was just trying to sling parts when he sold them to me since I had to hound him to ship them to me...
I think I'm to the point where I don't really know the direction this thread is going or what the point of this is anymore, if it's to debate the strength of my stock rods used In my motor, I'll just continue to beat it, I run It hard, Tom knows how I drive, and if we weren't trying to tear up back roads at midnight, more like noon, he would have seen my abuse to it more.. If they don't like it, they will exit stage right, and then that will tell me I didn't have enough rod.
Eagles would follow promptly...
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just bought a f23 for this :yes: get some numbers yet?
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I think the rod bolts would go way befor the rod. From what i have read if you take a b20vtec turn it 8000rpm everyday day in and day out. It will weaken the rod bolts and rod bearings then cause the rod to fail. I have a friend that has a b20 vtec i have been tuning on. It is his only car he only turns it to 7000 on the street then when we go to the track he turns it 8500 we have had no problems out of it in 2 years. Then on the other hand i have a friend that turns his b20 up every day no matter what i tell him he has spun bearing in 2 bottom ends. I think detonation will break a rod faster than anything. Just think if your crank is pusing your piston up and detonation is pushing it down at the same time what presure is being placed on you rods.
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buckling doesn't necessarily happen at TDC or BDC. Say 20* ATDC of the expansion stroke the forces acting on the rod are pretty high, and the rod is being loaded at an angle, not through it's centerline.
With miata engines, most DO fail from higher RPM. IT's been found that over 7500 can stretch the rods, and then they buckle. Many miata engines that are tore down for a rebuild that were reved to 7500+ are found to have at least 1 stretched rod. Several guys have pulled apart engines to find slightly buckled rods who had the revlimter around 7K and were running boost. Miata guys put down 250+ ft*lbs of torque on stock engines with turbo, some more.
FWIW my car (if I ever repace my failure of a turbo) will put out more torque than that, hopefully a decent amount more, and turn 8000 all day long on stock h22 rods, and I don't feel that there will be any issues of buckling or stretching... The machinist I had size them didn't see it to be an issue, and the ultra cool dude above who sold them to me didn't think it would be either. I doubt he was just trying to sling parts when he sold them to me since I had to hound him to ship them to me...
I think I'm to the point where I don't really know the direction this thread is going or what the point of this is anymore, if it's to debate the strength of my stock rods used In my motor, I'll just continue to beat it, I run It hard, Tom knows how I drive, and if we weren't trying to tear up back roads at midnight, more like noon, he would have seen my abuse to it more.. If they don't like it, they will exit stage right, and then that will tell me I didn't have enough rod.
Eagles would follow promptly...
I hear ya. I'm the same way. I'm around 300whp on a stock engine, and everybody "knows" that they will blow up after 250whp... Been boosted for 8 months and 10K miles. If anything, I want to turn the boost up some more. Buckling depends on the design of the rod and the rod ratio. Miatas are shitty'ly designed, so they will buckle between 300-350wheel torque with a perfect tune.
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just bought a f23 for this :yes: get some numbers yet?
what stroke is the f23? It's longer than the f22 isn't it? I know the f22 and h23 use the same crank, but unsure of f23, if the stroke is longer, which for some reason I think it is, i don't beleive it will work, can't say for sure though, never owned f23 or even cared to look anything up on them. I do know they have 55mm mains and 86mm bore, that's about it for my knowledge on them
I replied to the question about numbers a few posts ago....
I think the rod bolts would go way befor the rod. From what i have read if you take a b20vtec turn it 8000rpm everyday day in and day out. It will weaken the rod bolts and rod bearings then cause the rod to fail. I have a friend that has a b20 vtec i have been tuning on. It is his only car he only turns it to 7000 on the street then when we go to the track he turns it 8500 we have had no problems out of it in 2 years. Then on the other hand i have a friend that turns his b20 up every day no matter what i tell him he has spun bearing in 2 bottom ends. I think detonation will break a rod faster than anything. Just think if your crank is pusing your piston up and detonation is pushing it down at the same time what presure is being placed on you rods.
I would agree with everything you said there.. Det. Is an animal, it does shit to parts I couldn't beleive possible...
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there is no way this will work on a f23 a f23 has a 97mm stroke a f22 has a 95mm stroke. You can bore the f23 out 1mm and use h22 pistons. you can also use a 98+ year model h22 with 55mm diameter crank in a f23
destroke the engine to a 2.2 with h22 crank rods and pistons. The only reason you would want to use a f23 bottom end vs a h22 bottom end is h22 have frm sleeves. Frm sleeves will seize up forged pistons
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I think detonation will break a rod faster than anything. Just think if your crank is pusing your piston up and detonation is pushing it down at the same time what presure is being placed on you rods.
Thats called preignition an engine can't take even one instance of that happening or it's game over.
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there is no way this will work on a f23 a f23 has a 97mm stroke a f22 has a 95mm stroke. You can bore the f23 out 1mm and use h22 pistons. you can also use a 98+ year model h22 with 55mm diameter crank in a f23
destroke the engine to a 2.2 with h22 crank rods and pistons. The only reason you would want to use a f23 bottom end vs a h22 bottom end is h22 have frm sleeves. Frm sleeves will seize up forged pistons
i know this, i had a built h22 525 whp
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just bought a f23 for this :yes: get some numbers yet?
there is no way this will work on a f23 a f23 has a 97mm stroke a f22 has a 95mm stroke. You can bore the f23 out 1mm and use h22 pistons. you can also use a 98+ year model h22 with 55mm diameter crank in a f23
destroke the engine to a 2.2 with h22 crank rods and pistons. The only reason you would want to use a f23 bottom end vs a h22 bottom end is h22 have frm sleeves. Frm sleeves will seize up forged pistons
i know this, i had a built h22 525 whp
im hoping you are talking about the FRM part....
but yeah i thought the f23 wouldnt work for this....
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f23 is steel liners correct?
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yes
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i have 87mm je's laying around. or i will get .40 over evo 8's stroker or just run the bitch as is!
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i have 87mm je's laying around. or i will get .40 over evo 8's stroker or just run the bitch as is!
its not that easy, with stock crank and rods you need to determine the correct compression ht, or you might end up with the piston sticking way out of the bore, or way down in the hole. there is alot of figuring to do if you are so insistant on running the f23. the stroke and rod length are different, neither of those piston will just drop in.
FYI, .40 over is 10.14mm, or 94mm, same bore as my 450R
.040 over (which i thought you prolly meant) is 1.016mm, or 86mm..
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F23 has the same compression height as the K20, 1.181. The stroker pistons are 1.130. Not as much as a difference as the F22's, but still quite a bit.
86mm storker pistons in an F23 would yield around 7.8:1 compression or so. Similar to vitaras I think.
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yea im pretty much fucked and i did mean .040 over 87mm (stock h22)
the only way i can use the f23 is if i get the 55mm main h22 crank in it becuz of the 55mm mains in the f23 and i cant use h22 rods on an f23 crank becuz of the rod bore on the bearing side are different sizes from h22 to f23. fuck me i just wont get the f23.. too much farting around. i will look at different pistonoptions tonight tho.
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You could use the stock rods, just like this guy did.
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I'd recommend a good balancer. I think it's redstandardhatch (075 guy) that has an F22 in an EF, he had a few major issues with bearings until he got an ati or fluidamper.
he was using an unorthodox though... Im using an oem revving o just shy of 9k and dont have any issues... AND I KNOW that I beat the shit out of the slut harder and more frequently than 90 percent of the girls on this board.
Good luck trying to blow up the f i managed to fuck the ringlands up in number 4 but pulled it still running after beating it on 22 psi obly tuned to 15
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f23 rods are smaller i think. if im in it i just want it all done at once.
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Smaller than what? You want to use an F23 don't you? Just stick with the stock rods and use the evo pistons.
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My rods are stock H22, not f, they are a different length, and alot stouter than the f rods...
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My rods are stock H22, not f, they are a different length, and alot stouter than the f rods...
thats what i mean. the fs are shorter rods. and weaker.
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The F22 rods are just about as "beefy" as the H22 rods. The F23 rods are definitely skinnier than both, so specify which F you're talking about when you say "f rods".
Either way, unless you want to push over 400whp, I don't think you'll have any issues with stock rods.
Sorry for thread jacking, I'll stop now.
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sorry also. just trying to see what i want to do!
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have any numbers sir??
no dyno numbers, had it street tuned, and turbo is shit anyway. I'm getting another hx35 for now, and eventually stepping up to a 67mm.
Someday I'll strap it to the rollers and make a pull to see what it makes. Honestly to me it really dosent matter the numbers it makes, I just hope it pulls harder than the one next to me... Dynos are so subjective, and can be very misleading...
What size exhaust housing are you running? If you get another hx35 would you be willing to sell just the exhaust housing off your current turbo? Let me know in a pm if you will.
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I'm not going to lie. I only clicked this thread because it said NSFW.
Other than than sick build.
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have any numbers sir??
no dyno numbers, had it street tuned, and turbo is shit anyway. I'm getting another hx35 for now, and eventually stepping up to a 67mm.
Someday I'll strap it to the rollers and make a pull to see what it makes. Honestly to me it really dosent matter the numbers it makes, I just hope it pulls harder than the one next to me... Dynos are so subjective, and can be very misleading...
What size exhaust housing are you running? If you get another hx35 would you be willing to sell just the exhaust housing off your current turbo? Let me know in a pm if you will.
maybe, im getting an he351ve, itll be here tomorrow. the current housing is 12cm
make me an offer, well go from there.
I'm not going to lie. I only clicked this thread because it said NSFW.
Other than than sick build.
its ok, sometimes i find myself doing that also... :evil:
thanks! it makes me feel good when people compliment me on it, ive built everything to the car, except tuning, Sewell did that.
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he351ve hell yeah i love that bitch man it spools fast as hell. i just use a spring to control my vgt i sprung the vgt close and i think as the exhaust presure goes up the vgt open up. all i know is the big ass snell spools like a t25 and 8 psi fells like 15psi on my 57 trim
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he351ve hell yeah i love that bitch man it spools fast as hell. i just use a spring to control my vgt i sprung the vgt close and i think as the exhaust presure goes up the vgt open up. all i know is the big ass snell spools like a t25 and 8 psi fells like 15psi on my 57 trim
Thats good to know!!!
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he351ve hell yeah i love that bitch man it spools fast as hell. i just use a spring to control my vgt i sprung the vgt close and i think as the exhaust presure goes up the vgt open up. all i know is the big ass snell spools like a t25 and 8 psi fells like 15psi on my 57 trim
im hoping it pulls harder than a 57 trim...
some updates since its been a while. the turbo is here, i tore it all apart and cleaned the shit out of it. it was one of the ones chrysler took up cause of the VGT locking up. ive been so busy doing all the stuff for my other race car i havnt had time to work on this car.
I do need some help with parts if anyone wants to hook a nog up.
i need a v band for the downpipe, and the v band flange (unsure of size, i think its like 3 1/8??) -4 oil feed line, -4 to 1/8 npt fitting, -4 to 12mm or whatever the feed line on the turbo is, and WMGT flange.
if anyone has any of this shit, id appreciate a nog hook up.
thanks
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sooo!? how did you mod your head for the drain?
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sooo!? how did you mod your head for the drain?
i am confused by the question you are asking.... if you are talking about the drain in he f20 head that the f22 block does not have, then i got a bolt, but off the head and threads, (dont remember size) and siliconed it in.
so to update.....
the HE351 is in, i havnt gotten a spring in to hold the vgt back to allow the turbo to actually spool.... right now vgt wide open it makes 5lb, and is slow as fuck....
ash, what do you think the spring you used is similar to? i was thinking a screen door spring?? also where did you attach it?
pics to come next time im home...
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Man the thing that sucks about finding a spring for something like this is ,that springs you can buy at the store suck you have to just keep you eye's open out in the world and snag the right one when you find it.
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i had a discussion with someone last night about how to control it, and i came up with what i was denied as semi-genius...
ill try to work more details out in my head before i share it..
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do you have a picture of how you did the head? i dont really want to just use a bolt and silicone but i dont want to get it hot either(weld)
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no pics, sorry, its not really that hard, make sure its clean, stick a piece of dowel rod in it and hondabond the fuck out of it, mine dosent leak at all...
the waterpipe was the hardest part for me with that hybrid conversion, sometimes it randomly springs a little leak, and loses a little bit on the block side around the oring...
make sure you get the H h2o pump pulley, and crank gear.
look up prelittlelude on h-t, thats where i got all my info for it.
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yea and an f22 water pipe right?
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pretty sure you need a hybrid water pipe.
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yea and an f22 water pipe right?
f22 on the block side, h22 on where it goes into the thermostat housing.
time for the spoon feeding...
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=776837&highlight=prelittlelude (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=776837&highlight=prelittlelude)
sorry for the H-T link, but it really is a decent write-up that actually has good information. a rarity for H-T i know....
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i have read all that shit there is one water neck that you dont have to splice though. and i just think the silicone seems a little iffy(ghetto) haha .
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Do you have any clue of what site you're on?
Cut 2 pipes, make an edge on them and use hose to clamp them together. Done.
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yea im not asking you and i avoid honda-tech. and i dont want to deal with leaks like he said he has had issues with.
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yea im not asking you and i avoid honda-tech. and i dont want to deal with leaks like he said he has had issues with.
well that is one link you shouldnt avoid, there is a ton of good info there.
mine leaked cause i had a bad oring
like said above, just use common sense and use what you have and make it work.
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Do work! I want to see what this nog rig motor will make!
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Turbo accords make me silly happy
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F4gifs.com%2Fgallery%2Fd%2F139609-2%2FNurse_flapjacks.gif&hash=d6ca6fb09bcb7f3120216a28d878be6f545a304d)
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the car has changed so much since the last update, it is running a HE351VE at around 14lb. the car pulls strong as hell, i wish i could make more boost but the VGT is getting to be a pain in my ass, ive tried a ton of things and the only good way to control it will be PWM stepper motor.
the car is also having a pile of electrical issues, so the plans for the slut have changed.
im 99% positive im picking up a EK coupe dirty dirty cheap, pulling my motor/trans and swapping it into it, and upgrading to a 67mm...
the accord will get a junkyard f22 motor/trans and some sort of turbo and be sold.
updates will be posted.
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the car has changed so much since the last update, it is running a HE351VE at around 14lb. the car pulls strong as hell, i wish i could make more boost but the VGT is getting to be a pain in my ass, ive tried a ton of things and the only good way to control it will be PWM stepper motor.
the car is also having a pile of electrical issues, so the plans for the slut have changed.
im 99% positive im picking up a EK coupe dirty dirty cheap, pulling my motor/trans and swapping it into it, and upgrading to a 67mm...
the accord will get a junkyard f22 motor/trans and some sort of turbo and be sold.
updates will be posted.
Is this mean you will be selling the He351ve?
How much?
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updates?
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updates?
in the northeast asshole of the country i live in, we got around 1.5-2 feet of snow since the 1st, so the car sits buried...
the tundra with +6 on 35/12.5s on the other hand, is tearing shit up. i forgot how much i LOVE my truck.
oh and i have spent the last week moving... thats about all i got for updates. i got to call that nog with the coupe, i keep forgetting. i hope he didnt sell it, but if so i dont really care cause ive seen a few others around. i really kinda wanted an EX...
the car has changed so much since the last update, it is running a HE351VE at around 14lb. the car pulls strong as hell, i wish i could make more boost but the VGT is getting to be a pain in my ass, ive tried a ton of things and the only good way to control it will be PWM stepper motor.
the car is also having a pile of electrical issues, so the plans for the slut have changed.
im 99% positive im picking up a EK coupe dirty dirty cheap, pulling my motor/trans and swapping it into it, and upgrading to a 67mm...
the accord will get a junkyard f22 motor/trans and some sort of turbo and be sold.
updates will be posted.
Is this mean you will be selling the He351ve?
How much?
make me an offer, i suck ass at getting pics, and now everything is buried in snow, but for the right price id trudge through snow and pull it off and send it out. the bitch is damn near perfect. the only problem i see is the inlet on the compressor is a little beat up from removing the silencer, cause i'm an acoustic ricer, but i heard it killed the purpose of the MWE so i stuck it back in.
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UPDATE!!
so since i last posted, alot has changed. the HX35 is back in, the car has a full 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 3" glasspack "resonator" a magnaflow muffler (thanks spiker) the stock head lights, solid motor mounts, a radio, more boost, and the LSD clutch is now in. i imagine i forgot some stuff, i did alot of little things, like flush all fluids, clutch master, tranny seals, intercooler pipe re-routing, and some other bullshit things.
the car is around 16lb, and it rips, the tune is pretty conservative, cant wait to get it on a dyno. it blows the tires off 1-3rd every time, and sometimes will rip 4th too. the car must be making some torque, cause i mutilated my ebay stage 3 clutch, it already had some of the friction material ripped off from the first build, but this time it crushed all the springs in the disc flat and ripped them out into the pressure plate. i replaced it with the LSD dragger, and holy fuck is the pedal stiffer. took alot to get used to. it really grabs now, wheelspin is retarded, i need better tires. overall i am very happy with the car now, and i no longer want to run it into trees. it will be going on the dyno soon (i hope) and i will get some numbers up.
when i get home ill get some new updated pics up and maybe a few ripper vids.
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ill get some new updated pics up and maybe a few ripper vids.
NAOW!
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ill get some new updated pics up and maybe a few ripper vids.
NAOW!
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If I wasn't at work 3 hours away, it would be done already...
Should be home around 28th or so, then it's on, I have a buddy lined up to run the camera already...
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Where the hell id the update
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I want to see a vid of this beast! ;D
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Wheres the updates?
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Wheres the updates?
welllllll....... the car is waiting for the weather to get better, and my knee to heal. I totaled my truck when i fell asleep and ran into a loaded tri-axle on the interstate.
Catsman the pig fucker hooked me up with 16cm housing for my HX, and if Spikers personal flashlight ever gets moved to Ohio, I'm gonna strap it to the dyno and see what she will do...
I havnt given up on it, i still have it, but last year wasn't a good year to get anything done, my time was consumed by my dirt late model, hopefully this year isn't the same...
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Why the change in housing, don't you have the 12cm already on the Hx
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Why the change in housing, don't you have the 12cm already on the Hx
yes.
it sucks with the 2.2
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Why the change in housing, don't you have the 12cm already on the Hx
yes.
it sucks with the 2.2
Why is that?
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Probably to small small of a housing for the 2.2
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Probably to small small of a housing for the 2.2
DING DING DING...
Winnarrrr!
Car is flat at anything over 16lb... i have a feeling 16cm is still going to be high BP, but hopefully tolerable. H22 (well whatever my motor is) really should be T4, but i don't know if i feel like converting to bigger turbo, being pump gas street car.
right now with the 12cm, i can hit boost cut (24lb IIRC) at like 3200 with waste gate line popped off (oops...) and it revs to 8K+...
Im in FL right now, when i get home, hopefully ill be feeling better and weather will be more promising at home and ill drag the piece of shit in the garage and get working on it.
Anyone know what size flange and clamp works with factory Holset V-band? 3" is too big, looks almost 2.75? Is that size available?
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Factory dodge dealer has them. But bend over and take a side of lube with the price tag that comes with it. You could just buy a new 3" clamp with flange for like 25 shipped.
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This place has them too....
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/downpipes-flanges-c-29_48_236.html (http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/downpipes-flanges-c-29_48_236.html)
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Here as well:
http://sourceautomotive.biz/1994-2002dodgecummins59l-2.aspx?page=2 (http://sourceautomotive.biz/1994-2002dodgecummins59l-2.aspx?page=2)
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The cheapest way is probably just to buy a new backing plate from weir and weld the pipe right on, or a generic vband.
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I have a vband from an hx-35 if its the same.
I don't want it.
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I have a vband from an hx-35 if its the same.
I don't want it.
nice, price shipped, you should still have my address from when you modded my map for me....
everyone else..... I'm running out of room before i am into my radiator, so if i can avoid adding anymore length (welding another flange on) then that is the route i would like to take...
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We need some ripper vids. BTW I am in the middle of helping a friend build something similar. The only difference is we plan to use a a6 head with a evo8 turbo and manifold. He has been tossing the idea around of slapping a h22 head and a 6262. What are your thoughts on it?
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We need some ripper vids. BTW I am in the middle of helping a friend build something similar. The only difference is we plan to use a a6 head with a evo8 turbo and manifold. He has been tossing the idea around of slapping a h22 head and a 6262. What are your thoughts on it?
why wouldn't you? thats not even an equal comparison. what are your (his) goals?
6262 will make significantly more power than the evo... as far as heads, the F heads flow very well and a cam would really help it. If it were me and i had the resources available i would go with the H. JMO.
with the EVO turbo, if you plan for any amount of boost, I'm going to guess you will run into back pressure issues. my car with the 12cm stops making any real power over like 14-16lb, at least it feels like it. It hasn't been on the dyno to verify. I've run up to 22lb and it was disappointing. that is why i went with the 16cm, but i have a feeling, that too will be too small and disappointing. The H seems to out flow the T3 flange when you start cranking the boost. i don't know with my pump gas limit ill reach that point, but I have discussed this with a few "knowledgable" nogs, and they all agree.
if i were to do it again, which i still might depending on many things, id go with HX52 and a top mount. Im still unsure where I'm going to go with this car, because i have a 00 Camaro SS begging for a 5.3 or 6.0, 4l80 and 88-91mm...
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We need some ripper vids. BTW I am in the middle of helping a friend build something similar. The only difference is we plan to use a a6 head with a evo8 turbo and manifold. He has been tossing the idea around of slapping a h22 head and a 6262. What are your thoughts on it?
why wouldn't you? thats not even an equal comparison. what are your (his) goals?
6262 will make significantly more power than the evo... as far as heads, the F heads flow very well and a cam would really help it. If it were me and i had the resources available i would go with the H. JMO.
with the EVO turbo, if you plan for any amount of boost, I'm going to guess you will run into back pressure issues. my car with the 12cm stops making any real power over like 14-16lb, at least it feels like it. It hasn't been on the dyno to verify. I've run up to 22lb and it was disappointing. that is why i went with the 16cm, but i have a feeling, that too will be too small and disappointing. The H seems to out flow the T3 flange when you start cranking the boost. i don't know with my pump gas limit ill reach that point, but I have discussed this with a few "knowledgable" nogs, and they all agree.
if i were to do it again, which i still might depending on many things, id go with HX52 and a top mount. Im still unsure where I'm going to go with this car, because i have a 00 Camaro SS begging for a 5.3 or 6.0, 4l80 and 88-91mm...
At first the goal was 300hp, then as time went on and more parts came in it changed to 400hp. As even more parts have came in the thought of 500+ have started to come in, not really sure what the limit of the stock sleeves are.
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We need some ripper vids. BTW I am in the middle of helping a friend build something similar. The only difference is we plan to use a a6 head with a evo8 turbo and manifold. He has been tossing the idea around of slapping a h22 head and a 6262. What are your thoughts on it?
why wouldn't you? thats not even an equal comparison. what are your (his) goals?
6262 will make significantly more power than the evo... as far as heads, the F heads flow very well and a cam would really help it. If it were me and i had the resources available i would go with the H. JMO.
with the EVO turbo, if you plan for any amount of boost, I'm going to guess you will run into back pressure issues. my car with the 12cm stops making any real power over like 14-16lb, at least it feels like it. It hasn't been on the dyno to verify. I've run up to 22lb and it was disappointing. that is why i went with the 16cm, but i have a feeling, that too will be too small and disappointing. The H seems to out flow the T3 flange when you start cranking the boost. i don't know with my pump gas limit ill reach that point, but I have discussed this with a few "knowledgable" nogs, and they all agree.
if i were to do it again, which i still might depending on many things, id go with HX52 and a top mount. Im still unsure where I'm going to go with this car, because i have a 00 Camaro SS begging for a 5.3 or 6.0, 4l80 and 88-91mm...
At first the goal was 300hp, then as time went on and more parts came in it changed to 400hp. As even more parts have came in the thought of 500+ have started to come in, not really sure what the limit of the stock sleeves are.
what is funny about that is my tuner and i were talking about how my goals kept rising on my car too, the other day when i was at his shop. first i wanted like 300, then 400, now i just want to run as much as i can on pump. i have no use for a race gas car, it will see little to no track time, its too heavy and i have a Dirt Late Model, so I don't have time to take this car to the shitty strip that is local anyways. its just going to be a fun street car, that hopefully is faster than everyone around me locally (not like there is much around here anyways). If E85 was easily sourced locally, i would use that, but its not..
be the one to find the limit :)
i may or may not know someone that has run assloads of power on other stock sleeve motors that were well beyond their "limit" its all in the tune...
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You can just say Sewell instead of your tuner, couple people know me here, lol.
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You can just say Sewell instead of your tuner, couple people know me here, lol.
Or just say crazy Tom ;)
Never seen another tuner say to rip off the vac line on a wg!
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You can just say Sewell instead of your tuner, couple people know me here, lol.
Or just say crazy Tom ;)
Never seen another tuner say to rip off the vac line on a wg!
You can just say Sewell instead of your tuner, couple people know me here, lol.
Tom! you are giving away my secrets! plus it makes me sound more professional, when I say my tuner... ;)
i also remember doing a couple pulls with waste gate line removed... but we were diagnosing problems....
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Is there anything involved in just putting a h22 head on, any machining, ect?
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Is there anything involved in just putting a h22 head on, any machining, ect?
no, the biggest mod is modding the water pipe, which i just chopped the h22 and f22 and welded the H end on the thermostat side...
also you have to get H lower timing gear and water pump gear, and press it on the F water pump. i also staked mine since it didn't fit as "snug" as i wanted it to...
there are also 2 oil drain plugs that will need filled, i filled mine with JB Weld and 1/2" bolts i believe?? whatever bolt fits snug in the hole after you cut the head off it.
there are a few more things you do, prelittlelude on H-T did a really good write up, that is my best suggestion. I'm sure there are a few things I've missed, its been 3-5 years since i did that part of my build. I know if you have a non-vtec block there is a plug you have to remove from the block so the head gets oil, and some other things I'm sure.
any questions, HMU, you can PM me and ill give you my number.
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Is there anything involved in just putting a h22 head on, any machining, ect?
no, the biggest mod is modding the water pipe, which i just chopped the h22 and f22 and welded the H end on the thermostat side...
also you have to get H lower timing gear and water pump gear, and press it on the F water pump. i also staked mine since it didn't fit as "snug" as i wanted it to...
there are also 2 oil drain plugs that will need filled, i filled mine with JB Weld and 1/2" bolts i believe?? whatever bolt fits snug in the hole after you cut the head off it.
there are a few more things you do, prelittlelude on H-T did a really good write up, that is my best suggestion. I'm sure there are a few things I've missed, its been 3-5 years since i did that part of my build. I know if you have a non-vtec block there is a plug you have to remove from the block so the head gets oil, and some other things I'm sure.
any questions, HMU, you can PM me and ill give you my number.
Cool thanks bro!
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Never seen another tuner say to rip off the vac line on a wg!
You know whats more hard core than that? I watched Josh Ross and Ted pull the wg line off and put a bolt in the top port of the wastegate to keep the gate closed because Ted's 305ci Chevy kept blowing the wg open at 20lbs
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi302.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fnn93%2Fhot_rod_lincoln_8%2FIMG_7544.jpg&hash=55288097031157929611c857957c23a6c3b0b997)
Broke the whore out today, just topped off the fluids and took it for a short drive, and I was reminded how much of a piece of shit this car is...
tomorrow putting bigger turbine housing on and modding DP for v-band, then if a certain someone gets moved, ill strap it to the dyno, and get it tuned and legal.
on a more positive note, i just bought a mandrel bender to build bumpers and stuff for my dirt late model, so maybe its time to drag the Camaro out and build a cage for it. :)
just gotta keep telling myself the fail boat anchor is a piece of shit so i sell it and i can start on the 88-91mm LSX project...
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Whats so bad about the car?
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Whats so bad about the car?
it was hacked when i bought it, and all half assed, i put a lot of work into fixing as much as i can, but still some stuff and I'm just tired of working on it...
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Whats so bad about the car?
it was hacked when i bought it, and all half assed, i put a lot of work into fixing as much as i can, but still some stuff and I'm just tired of working on it...
Then you should sell me the motor ;)
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Whats so bad about the car?
it was hacked when i bought it, and all half assed, i put a lot of work into fixing as much as i can, but still some stuff and I'm just tired of working on it...
Then you should sell me the motor ;)
Ill sell the motor to you, and give you the car! ;)
It has a lot of good parts on it, its not a total piece of shit, I'm just getting sick of working on it all the time. i am hoping after this last time of fixing shit, that it becomes semi reliable and i can just get in it and drive it.
Plus having an LSx car waiting to make stupid power with, and my Dirt Late Model, its kinda a lost interest to me...
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Whats so bad about the car?
it was hacked when i bought it, and all half assed, i put a lot of work into fixing as much as i can, but still some stuff and I'm just tired of working on it...
Then you should sell me the motor ;)
Ill sell the motor to you, and give you the car! ;)
It has a lot of good parts on it, its not a total piece of shit, I'm just getting sick of working on it all the time. i am hoping after this last time of fixing shit, that it becomes semi reliable and i can just get in it and drive it.
Plus having an LSx car waiting to make stupid power with, and my Dirt Late Model, its kinda a lost interest to me...
Even better reason to sell me the motor :noel:
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Today i felt ambitious, and decided to tackle changing the turbine housing. I got the 16cm housing on, converted my down pipe to V-band and hooked my wideband back up. i took it out for beating and it is kinda lean, but the car runs so much better. even out of boost it is so much more responsive. Next on my list is a new CV shaft, windshield, and inspection then its off to Ohio to get a tune... hopefully some slacker gets his shit arranged so i can get this bitch tuned....
Is 450-500 too much to ask out of it on pump gas?
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Today i felt ambitious, and decided to tackle changing the turbine housing. I got the 16cm housing on, converted my down pipe to V-band and hooked my wideband back up. i took it out for beating and it is kinda lean, but the car runs so much better. even out of boost it is so much more responsive. Next on my list is a new CV shaft, windshield, and inspection then its off to Ohio to get a tune... hopefully some slacker gets his shit arranged so i can get this bitch tuned....
Is 450-500 too much to ask out of it on pump gas?
Od damn this thing is going to rip!
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Today i felt ambitious, and decided to tackle changing the turbine housing. I got the 16cm housing on, converted my down pipe to V-band and hooked my wideband back up. i took it out for beating and it is kinda lean, but the car runs so much better. even out of boost it is so much more responsive. Next on my list is a new CV shaft, windshield, and inspection then its off to Ohio to get a tune... hopefully some slacker gets his shit arranged so i can get this bitch tuned....
Is 450-500 too much to ask out of it on pump gas?
Od damn this thing is going to rip!
Hope so....
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hopefully some slacker gets his shit arranged so i can get this bitch tuned....
I just sent him something to take up all his free time. But it's something even your LSX can benefit from (if it uses fuel injection). ;)
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hopefully some slacker gets his shit arranged so i can get this bitch tuned....
I just sent him something to take up all his free time. But it's something even your LSX can benefit from (if it uses fuel injection). ;)
it will utilize FI (whenever i get it together...)
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so... car has been getting a lot of love lately...
yesterday i cleaned the shit out of it, apparently a mouse, or many, took over the car this winter. it was full of "nesting" and smelled like piss.
today i put fresh 93 in it, and had a windshield installed. next move it renewing registration and inspection.
also today, took it out for beating, upped boost to 18lb, and car really came alive. got a little wheelspin at 70mph, the rough road didn't help, but its def running better than before! I like!
looking forward to strapping it to the dyno (cough*Tom*cough) soon???
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It's always nice to see an Accord running high boost. GOOD SHIT!
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It's always nice to see an Accord running high boost. GOOD SHIT!
Car was dyno'ed made 484hp at and 390ft/lb at 100% injector duty cycle. Actually had to lower rev limit because it was out of fuel. Would have made well over 500whp with more injector.
See dyno thread with videos and dyno graph here... http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,17520.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,17520.0.html)
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A friend of mine made me a youtube video
http://youtu.be/_WJilOw8Qhw (http://youtu.be/_WJilOw8Qhw)
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Any updates on this?
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I have his HE351ve on my car until this month. :noel: