:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: toyolla86 on November 27, 2009, 08:49:56 PM
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whats the science behind a catch can. arent they all the same. just venting the valve covers
to prevent blow-by right?
i have a hose to a water bottle right now.
how can i make a "real catch can"
it seems like the catch can designs are flawed. like they're only half engineered. what would happen
if you made a drain from the bottom of your catch can to the oil pan. would that mess things up.
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I've got my drain going to the oil pan. I guess there's a chance that gas can get into it, but at the same time I don't give a fuck.
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i think that if your drawing enough oil into the can to require a pan drain line youve got bigger issues :-*
just do a slash cut into the turbo inlet along with a mani line and put a one way valve in it and youll draw vac when idling and under pressure
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I have no oil in my catch can, only water and gas (well, smell like it)... I know the blow by has a lot of water into it, but... I don't know.
I use the turbo inlet as a vacuum into the catch can and the catch can is hooked to the modded PCV valve.
Now that I look at the drawing, it's more an hybrid between these 2 types
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbeesandgoats.com%2Fboostfaq%2FPCV_turbo_1fit.jpg&hash=94a5611321a80512d2315b91a8a1fa5969970d5e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbeesandgoats.com%2Fboostfaq%2FPCV_turbo_2fit.jpg&hash=13e05977094a1fc680149e695d44760ff210eda4)
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anybody have pics of one being made.
thanks for the diagram. those are helpful.
i still dont quite understand how this equalizes pressure and stops blowby.
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google is your friend O0
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=290 (http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=290)
http://www.mckinneyraceworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=82 (http://www.mckinneyraceworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=82)
mad old school like JD
http://www.theoldone.com/sc/type-r/Catch_Can_Diagram.jpg (http://www.theoldone.com/sc/type-r/Catch_Can_Diagram.jpg)
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anybody have pics of one being made.
thanks for the diagram. those are helpful.
i still dont quite understand how this equalizes pressure and stops blowby.
In fact, the blow by goes into the catch can. I use a vacuum to get it out of motor, but many people said that you don't need vacuum and it will go in the catch can anyway.
In the pics, the PCV valve is replaced by a L fitting or a modded PCV valve.
This is how I did it. http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=5043.msg75161#msg75161 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=5043.msg75161#msg75161)
BTW, I never noticed you posted a question about the setup!
There are 2 hoses in the setup. One from the modded PCV to the catch can and one from the catch can to the turbo inlet.
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the idea is to just get the pressure out of the crankcase, it can be executed a bunch of ways. you can do it like frenchie with a line from the back or the block or VC to the intake pipe on the turbo so it sucks out the pressure and have a can in the middle to catch the oil.
best way is to put some fittings on the VC and run them to a can with filter on it. the pressure will find its way out.
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
Before the turbo is a vacuum if you place the L fitting correctly and under boost.
I didn't really understand what you said btw... yar engrish skillz are 2 mach far me.
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
Before the turbo is a vacuum if you place the L fitting correctly and under boost.
I didn't really understand what you said btw... yar engrish skillz are 2 mach far me.
just becuse use change the L dosent makes it for vacume.
mebe you can use for your vacume a pumper from a diesels that dont do vacume because of to throttle bodys
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
Before the turbo is a vacuum if you place the L fitting correctly and under boost.
I didn't really understand what you said btw... yar engrish skillz are 2 mach far me.
just becuse use change the L dosent makes it for vacume.
mebe you can use for your vacume a pumper from a diesels that dont do vacume because of to throttle bodys
Bernoulli effect dude. Search for it. BTW, where the fuck is your noob post?
It's "vacuum" not vacume. Maybe you can try to learn how to type and fist yourself with a diesel "vacume" pump?
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
Before the turbo is a vacuum if you place the L fitting correctly and under boost.
I didn't really understand what you said btw... yar engrish skillz are 2 mach far me.
just becuse use change the L dosent makes it for vacume.
mebe you can use for your vacume a pumper from a diesels that dont do vacume because of to throttle bodys
Bernoulli effect dude. Search for it. BTW, where the fuck is your noob post?
It's "vacuum" not vacume. Maybe you can try to learn how to type and fist yourself with a diesel "vacume" pump?
mybe your father molesting you and jave you a bad atitude. he made you mouth a vacume arounf his wienis
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You just sound like a troll, just go away. Do it short and sweet.
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bfour the turbo is not a vacume only after the throttle bodys win its close is.
retard there is always air being drawn pre turbo. do you think the air in the manifold just magically appears there?
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its like i wanna vent the oil pan hahaha. thats what makes sense. but then you need pressure down there too right.
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you can always make a 10 buck air oil sperator like i did....
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator001.jpg&hash=e57bf318036e02eec5eb203d074fa7f2e80cff3b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator002.jpg&hash=7cebacecf5f4ff302fd338da1797598c2b86b195)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator003.jpg&hash=daeb1f7d01f9bcd6ff096d4868b205a469bc1079)
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Turbo inlet draws a small amount of vacuum (more while in boost). The need for a catch can is so if you're recirculating the air coming from the crankcase, you can eliminate the oil/fuel/etc from it before it goes into the intake tract (whether through the turbo inlet or intake manifold). Principles of a catch can are pretty simple, only differences could be port size, can size, filter material, and looks.
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I have always wanted to set up a catch can but never really got around to it. So i like this thread minus the retards.
Is there a way to run a filter inline to the hose going to the turbo inlet? like a carb fuel filter? to catch some of the shit suspended in the vapor being pulled through the catch can.
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you can always make a 10 buck air oil sperator like i did....
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator001.jpg&hash=e57bf318036e02eec5eb203d074fa7f2e80cff3b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator002.jpg&hash=7cebacecf5f4ff302fd338da1797598c2b86b195)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi186.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fpatricklikesbeer%2Fairoilseperator003.jpg&hash=daeb1f7d01f9bcd6ff096d4868b205a469bc1079)
Looks good :-X
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I have always wanted to set up a catch can but never really got around to it. So i like this thread minus the retards.
Is there a way to run a filter inline to the hose going to the turbo inlet? like a carb fuel filter? to catch some of the shit suspended in the vapor being pulled through the catch can.
yes.
back in the day when srt4's came out and before catch cans were a hgonda bandwagon the neon guys would put a water seperator in line like the kind you get at lowes homodepot etc. they call it the $20 catch can
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi801.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy294%2FBigRed585Lbs%2F100_0011.jpg&hash=eda770757c7e34373587abdcee4bc8fe9cc45bbf)
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Corey wouldn't that be the same as building a catch can box? or does it work differently then i'm thinking inside? i do like the createvness.
I was looking more along the lines of after the catch can. having a filter that strickly cleans the air vapor before entering the turbo to keep the turbo clean and oil/dirt free?
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catch can boxes with filters arent recirculated back into the intake anyways. basically what youre talking about doing is running 2 inline catch cans basically.
no matter what you do theres going to be laden oil vapors going back into the turbo if its recirc. its just a matter of how much.
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Tell me if i'm being stupid here but this is what i'm talking about. using a traditional box with 2 inlets from the engine and one going to this filter from summit then to the turbo. i would use a drain back to the block also on the can.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-2526/?image=large (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-2526/?image=large)
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oil vapor seperator from a GM quad4:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv77%2FscarecrowX%2Fzz3can.jpg&hash=aa9d0938eca6b0b1b3a104aa81499a8b1c964dab)
$2 at the JY.
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Does anyone know if the carby fuel filter would suck balls or work fine? :noel:
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it seems like if blow-by is being created from excessive pressure from under the pistons, then you would want to vent the area under the pistons (the crankcase).
why then are we venting the area above the pistons.
fix:
im thinking like a snorkle hose from the oil pan with an air filter on top. it would extend a foot or so up and be high on the oil pan just like the oil drain from the turbo.
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it seems like if blow-by is being created from excessive pressure from under the pistons, then you would want to vent the area under the pistons (the crankcase).
why then are we venting the area above the pistons.
fix:
im thinking like a snorkle hose from the oil pan with an air filter on top. it would extend a foot or so up and be high on the oil pan just like the oil drain from the turbo.
You do know there are huge oil drain passages that easily transfer the "pressure" up to the head where the vc is. right?
Also alot of b series guys run the vents off the back of the block and vc both.
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mybe your father molesting you and jave you a bad atitude. he made you mouth a vacume arounf his wienis
LOL sounds like a retard with a lisp on medication trying to talk shit. Oh lord.
FYI one problem people have with that rear vent is that under heavy accelleration, the oil returning to the crank (from head) fills that line. Pressure then pushes tons of oil into the catch can if the other lines aren't big enough. I only recommend that lower port for the drain.
You DEFINATELY would not want to tap right off the crankcase. You'd have shitloads of oil getting into the tube due to oil windage. Given the size of the (usually) 4 ports connecting the crankcase and head on a Honda, there will be no noticable pressure drop between them.
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blowby causes pressure in the crankcase(oil pan). the oil cooler on the back of the motor (pcv port) runs to the intake mani to pull that pressure out, yea it works to create less than atmospheric pressure inside the case, but your still sucking oil into the intake manifold. the catch can simply eliminates the pcv valve and sucks air pre turbo (constant vaccum) with a "can" in between so your not sucking oil into the turbo. breather on the valve cover, black box to a can, vaccum source to pre turbo and youll be set.
dont waste the money on a fancy one, theyre too simple.
mine.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi212.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc43%2Fyamaha6611%2FCIMG1444.jpg&hash=f18cb8cf9e839ea3035e29b63fe3b0a9960edc3f)
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i like that one. those things water traps cost like 20 bucks at home depot
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Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.
Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.
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Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.
Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.
Damn, got to it before me. :(
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Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.
Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.
/thread
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Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.
Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.
My concerns for are for a street engine that has to last (for the most part) running higher boost daily then the track/weekend car. as the track car see's boost for 10 sec then rests for a long period. I will be boosting, driving sometimes 100 miles a day running around town. and with what i figured in running the math i will need up to 20+ lbs(t3 60 trim) just to hit 250 whp (tuner has a mustang dyno).
Is it really that bad of an idea to run it to the intake? last thing i want is a fucking mess in the exhaust.
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That vapor will reduce your overall octane.
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Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.
Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.
My concerns for are for a street engine that has to last (for the most part) running higher boost daily then the track/weekend car. as the track car see's boost for 10 sec then rests for a long period. I will be boosting, driving sometimes 100 miles a day running around town. and with what i figured in running the math i will need up to 20+ lbs(t3 60 trim) just to hit 250 whp (tuner has a mustang dyno).
Is it really that bad of an idea to run it to the intake? last thing i want is a fucking mess in the exhaust.
Uh dude, re-read what he said again. Why would it being a street engine have anything at all to do with properly venting the crankcase? The shit is going to get out one way or the other. Even if you decide to do a slash-cut, properly designed you arent sucking straight oil into the exhaust. What you imagine as a freight train rolling down the street is actually more like a puff at the red light.
That vapor will reduce your overall octane.
The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
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Drawing a vacuum in the crankcase during normal driving has a beneficial effect on engine life - but not as beneficial as venting the crankcase when making decent power. If you wanted you could have a medium sized valve that switches from intake to outside/downpipe when you go WOT... that valve would become carbon prone and need to be cleaned/maintained, but if you were sincerely concerned it's not difficult to do so. Especially when you have some mad fabricational skills, sir.
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That vapor will reduce your overall octane.
The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
Also, valve deposits wreak havok on actual flow into the engine.
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The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
That too.
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The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
That too.
I knew what you meant, just clarifing. ;)
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I've always sucked at being able to write/say what I mean. My vocab is limited.:( I had to go look up propensity.
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The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition
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I've always sucked at being able to write/say what I mean. My vocab is limited.:( I had to go look up propensity.
MEXICANT
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The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition
This is also true, although I think the whole carbon absorbing fuel thing is most of the problem. I could be completely wrong about this, but thats how I work it out in my head so meh.
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The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.
also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition
This is also true, although I think the whole carbon absorbing fuel thing is most of the problem. I could be completely wrong about this, but thats how I work it out in my head so meh.
a quick google:
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html)
Common problem areas are sharp edges of metal either on the piston or in the combustion chamber. For instance, if the piston has a valve relief cut into it, there is usually a very defined edge that the cutting tool leaves. This sharp edge is greatly prone to super heating and will actually retain enough heat that it will start to glow. If the fuel should hit this glowing edge either prior to the lighting of the spark plug or even after ignition, it is very likely that another flame front will initiate. If this unintended ignition occurs very early in the compression stroke, then the piston will be forced up against the increased pressure of the burning gas and will result in a form of abnormal combustion referred to as preignition. When this happens, the end result, if severe enough, is that the connecting rods bend. Turbocharged engines are specifically prone this. Carbon deposits that build up in the combustion chamber or on the piston top will have the same effect, along with the decreased volume at TDC, which in turn raises the compression ratio.
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i have a cheap egay catch can, stock box --- hose to catch tank -- hose to pvc valve and then to IM... not ure im doing it right, i havent filter /preturbo..
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okay, im a little lost here now...
i got my catch can setup going, works well... buuutt..
its mostly water..?? i dont understand how pulling vaccume from the oil cooler box will pull in any sort of water...
i see people commenting that theirs also fills with water and gas, which makes no sense... help me out here
-matt
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condensation.
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okay, im a little lost here now...
i got my catch can setup going, works well... buuutt..
its mostly water..?? i dont understand how pulling vaccume from the oil cooler box will pull in any sort of water...
i see people commenting that theirs also fills with water and gas, which makes no sense... help me out here
-matt
Water is normal, its condensation as d112crzy said, but if your getting gas in the catch can your have some serious engine problems.
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hah okay yea its water, thats what i thought was happening but i was a little unsure, my oil is crystal so i really doubted an HG problem.. thanks
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http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm (http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm)
overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can. That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.
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holy shit. I FOUND THE FUCKING PROBLEM.
so you know how we were just talking about condensation in the catch can.
well thats what i always have as well. my catch can tube is very long and goes
to the very bottom of my h2o bottle/catch can. so it fills up with water and
now that its winter it fucking froze. so i had no catch can and no breathing at all.
i did a compression test and it goes like this.
#1- 150 psi
#2- 150 psi
#3- 120 psi
#4- 140+psi.
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http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm (http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm)
overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can. That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.
most 90's saturns come stock with a vacuum pump for crankcase evac. $10 at the junkyard isnt ballin too hard and its twice as effective as just venting.
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http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm (http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm)
overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can. That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.
most 90's saturns come stock with a vacuum pump for crankcase evac. $10 at the junkyard isnt ballin too hard and its twice as effective as just venting.
i may have to do this for my setup.
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holy shit. I FOUND THE FUCKING PROBLEM.
so you know how we were just talking about condensation in the catch can.
well thats what i always have as well. my catch can tube is very long and goes
to the very bottom of my h2o bottle/catch can. so it fills up with water and
now that its winter it fucking froze. so i had no catch can and no breathing at all.
i did a compression test and it goes like this.
#1- 150 psi
#2- 150 psi
#3- 120 psi
#4- 140+psi.
So that was the source of issues stated in this link: http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=6612.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=6612.0) ? ;D
If so that hella cheaper to fix. :yes:
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yeah but the only thing is i think my #3 ring is still bad. its still blowing smoke.
i dug out the ice in the tube and started the car. its still smoking.
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yeah but the only thing is i think my #3 ring is still bad. its still blowing smoke.
i dug out the ice in the tube and started the car. its still smoking.
It'll probably smoke for a while until all of the oil residue is out of the line.
Clean or replace line then see if it still blows smoke.