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[toyolla86]

i like that one. those things water traps cost like 20 bucks at home depot

[Joseph Davis]

Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.

Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.

[Robb]

Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.

Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.

Damn, got to it before me. 

[ApexSilver06MR]

Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.

Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.

/thread

[turbob16hatch]

Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.

Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.

My concerns for are for a street engine that has to last (for the most part) running higher boost daily then the track/weekend car. as the track car see's boost for 10 sec then rests for a long period. I will be boosting, driving sometimes 100 miles a day running around town. and with what i figured in running the math i will need up to 20+ lbs(t3 60 trim) just to hit 250 whp (tuner has a mustang dyno).

Is it really that bad of an idea to run it to the intake? last thing i want is a fucking mess in the exhaust.

[d112crzy]

That vapor will reduce your overall octane.

[Robb]

Seperator or not, you still suck oil vapor through your turbo and into the intake tract.

Quit being emissions-compliant little faggots and vent that shit to the atmosphere, or if you somehow think the pressure in the crankcase won't vent itself use a slashcut in the downpipe to generate a vacuum.

My concerns for are for a street engine that has to last (for the most part) running higher boost daily then the track/weekend car. as the track car see's boost for 10 sec then rests for a long period. I will be boosting, driving sometimes 100 miles a day running around town. and with what i figured in running the math i will need up to 20+ lbs(t3 60 trim) just to hit 250 whp (tuner has a mustang dyno).

Is it really that bad of an idea to run it to the intake? last thing i want is a fucking mess in the exhaust.

Uh dude, re-read what he said again.  Why would it being a street engine have anything at all to do with properly venting the crankcase? The shit is going to get out one way or the other.  Even if you decide to do a slash-cut, properly designed you arent sucking straight oil into the exhaust. What you imagine as a freight train rolling down the street is actually more like a puff at the red light.

That vapor will reduce your overall octane.

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

[Joseph Davis]

Drawing a vacuum in the crankcase during normal driving has a beneficial effect on engine life - but not as beneficial as venting the crankcase when making decent power.  If you wanted you could have a medium sized valve that switches from intake to outside/downpipe when you go WOT... that valve would become carbon prone and need to be cleaned/maintained, but if you were sincerely concerned it's not difficult to do so.  Especially when you have some mad fabricational skills, sir.

[Joseph Davis]

That vapor will reduce your overall octane.

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

Also, valve deposits wreak havok on actual flow into the engine.

[d112crzy]

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

That too.

[Robb]

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

That too.

I knew what you meant, just clarifing. 

[d112crzy]

I've always sucked at being able to write/say what I mean. My vocab is limited. I had to go look up propensity.

[onlyflash944]

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition

[DRQPQUT]

I've always sucked at being able to write/say what I mean. My vocab is limited. I had to go look up propensity.

MEXICANT

[Robb]

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition

This is also true, although I think the whole carbon absorbing fuel thing is most of the problem. I could be completely wrong about this, but thats how I work it out in my head so meh.

[onlyflash944]

The carbon build up in the combustion chamber lowers your knock limit by increasing the CC's propensity to detonate.

also, i thought carbon build up sometimes gets heated to the point where it can cause pre-ignition

This is also true, although I think the whole carbon absorbing fuel thing is most of the problem. I could be completely wrong about this, but thats how I work it out in my head so meh.

a quick google:
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

Common problem areas are sharp edges of metal either on the piston or in the combustion chamber. For instance, if the piston has a valve relief cut into it, there is usually a very defined edge that the cutting tool leaves. This sharp edge is greatly prone to super heating and will actually retain enough heat that it will start to glow. If the fuel should hit this glowing edge either prior to the lighting of the spark plug or even after ignition, it is very likely that another flame front will initiate. If this unintended ignition occurs very early in the compression stroke, then the piston will be forced up against the increased pressure of the burning gas and will result in a form of abnormal combustion referred to as preignition. When this happens, the end result, if severe enough, is that the connecting rods bend. Turbocharged engines are specifically prone this. Carbon deposits that build up in the combustion chamber or on the piston top will have the same effect, along with the decreased volume at TDC, which in turn raises the compression ratio.

[walter]

i have  a cheap egay catch can, stock box --- hose to catch tank -- hose to pvc valve and then to IM... not ure im doing it right, i havent filter /preturbo..

[yamaha6611]

okay, im a little lost here now...

i got my catch can setup going, works well... buuutt..

its mostly water..?? i dont understand how pulling vaccume from the oil cooler box will pull in any sort of water...

i see people commenting that theirs also fills with water and gas, which makes no sense... help me out here

-matt

[d112crzy]

condensation.

[Robb]

okay, im a little lost here now...

i got my catch can setup going, works well... buuutt..

its mostly water..?? i dont understand how pulling vaccume from the oil cooler box will pull in any sort of water...

i see people commenting that theirs also fills with water and gas, which makes no sense... help me out here

-matt

Water is normal, its condensation as d112crzy said, but if your getting gas in the catch can your have some serious engine problems.

[yamaha6611]

hah okay yea its water, thats what i thought was happening but i was a little unsure, my oil is crystal so i really doubted an HG problem.. thanks

[bigwig]

http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm

overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can.  That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.

[toyolla86]

holy shit.  I FOUND THE FUCKING PROBLEM.

so you know how we were just talking about condensation in the catch can.
well thats what i always have as well. my catch can tube is very long and goes
to the very bottom of my h2o bottle/catch can. so it fills up with water and
now that its winter it fucking froze. so i had no catch can and no breathing at all.

i did a compression test and it goes like this.
#1- 150 psi
#2- 150 psi
#3- 120 psi
#4- 140+psi.

[Corey]

http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm

overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can.  That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.

most 90's saturns come stock with a vacuum pump for crankcase evac. $10 at the junkyard isnt ballin too hard and its twice as effective as just venting.

[toyolla86]

http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Moroso-Performance-240996.htm

overpriced, but it's what you want if you don't want to not have a retarded catch can.  That or you can ball out of control and do a vacuum pump setup.

most 90's saturns come stock with a vacuum pump for crankcase evac. $10 at the junkyard isnt ballin too hard and its twice as effective as just venting.

i may have to do this for my setup.

[92CXyD]

holy shit.  I FOUND THE FUCKING PROBLEM.

so you know how we were just talking about condensation in the catch can.
well thats what i always have as well. my catch can tube is very long and goes
to the very bottom of my h2o bottle/catch can. so it fills up with water and
now that its winter it fucking froze. so i had no catch can and no breathing at all.

i did a compression test and it goes like this.
#1- 150 psi
#2- 150 psi
#3- 120 psi
#4- 140+psi.

So that was the source of issues stated in this link: http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=6612.0 ? ;D

If so that hella cheaper to fix. :yes:

[toyolla86]

yeah but the only thing is i think my #3 ring is still bad. its still blowing smoke.
i dug out the ice in the tube and started the car. its still smoking.

[92CXyD]

yeah but the only thing is i think my #3 ring is still bad. its still blowing smoke.
i dug out the ice in the tube and started the car. its still smoking.

It'll probably smoke for a while until all of the oil residue is out of the line.

Clean or replace line then see if it still blows smoke.