:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Joseph Davis on December 02, 2009, 08:37:45 AM
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http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683781 (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683781)
I think the turbo is overkill and will turn the car into another cruise missile, and I'm a hater on the mismatched engine bay ricer nonsense, but it's really quite interesting.
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That's lovely
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i use to have a 79 and 81 cvcc that i pictured something like that. but ended up just getting rid of them because they were more then a project just to look and run some what decent. but that is bad ass. and i agree on the cruise missle. funny he said his 94 civic was a cruise missle but doesnt think this will be. i wonder what he will do for suspension and traction.
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What battery is that?
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What battery is that?
how does a battery hold up to being on its side? probably a expensive battery made to handle any angle you want and urination whenever you want. because that wouldnt fly with a normal battery.
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Love the axle shaft, I've been rocking a butt welded drive shaft for 3 years now :)
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I wonder what the runout on these half-shafts are...?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv645%2Ficarusdown%2F2g%2520civic%2FIMG_1447.jpg&hash=565214403fe8a2672072fb1ea07d098414df876a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv645%2Ficarusdown%2F2g%2520civic%2FIMG_1448.jpg&hash=661897eb037adfd8cc2edf372e1b40301d8a1fa5)
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so i guess all the weight from the weld n shit wouldn't matter? I would think it has to be balanced fairly well for it not to destroy the tranny or bearings or some shit.
anyone want to educate me on why that's cool?
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I think it would still handle well... again with a 3 psi wastegate spring. That swap is way lighter than the cast block 1.8 that came out of it.
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I don't know if the 2G is the same as the first gen in the aerodynamics department, but I know my '79 above ~ 140km/hr (85mph) would have so much front end lift you could barely steer it. If it was raining and you tried to approach those speeds you could actually get wheel spin. I loved the car, but high speed was it's nemesis.
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but i mean i would think anything that's gonna rotate that fast would need to balanaced or youd get vibration or something. ???
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i have a 1980 civic on the lot clean as shit needs some motor work though ;D
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What battery is that?
how does a battery hold up to being on its side? probably a expensive battery made to handle any angle you want and urination whenever you want. because that wouldnt fly with a normal battery.
A dry cell you can mount at any angle becuase its not liquid filled
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Im probly going to steal that paint booth idea, I used to make a DIY tent like he did, but i never though of having the fan flowing out with a filter on it like that.
Axle balance there kinda scares me....
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Odyssey batteries can be left in any orientation and aren't too pricey.
I'm going to put my PC680 in compartment behind the seat...like the DIY.
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Aahahaahaaaa. It is a cool project, but those welds that attach the engine mount bucket to the chasis look pretty crappy. I would be afraid of breaking that mount loose.
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so i guess all the weight from the weld n shit wouldn't matter? I would think it has to be balanced fairly well for it not to destroy the tranny or bearings or some shit.
anyone want to educate me on why that's cool?
I assumed that those extra weld spots on the shaft are to balance it. If not, I don't know what the hell they're for.
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I was eye ball fucking that car a while ago, Its HR approved!
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Drill through and fill with the welder. It's extra structural support.
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so i guess all the weight from the weld n shit wouldn't matter? I would think it has to be balanced fairly well for it not to destroy the tranny or bearings or some shit.
anyone want to educate me on why that's cool?
I assumed that those extra weld spots on the shaft are to balance it. If not, I don't know what the hell they're for.
Plug welds.
The engineer in you is showing...
;D
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so i guess all the weight from the weld n shit wouldn't matter? I would think it has to be balanced fairly well for it not to destroy the tranny or bearings or some shit.
anyone want to educate me on why that's cool?
I assumed that those extra weld spots on the shaft are to balance it. If not, I don't know what the hell they're for.
Plug welds.
The engineer in you is showing...
;D
Like this...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_0726.jpg&hash=62abfc9d205f8ef125ff7f169b5a7f5c97706db0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_0736.jpg&hash=1c4215c3ea7a5199f207a5a673cc860b0e0a7f05)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_0739.jpg&hash=11c3fded3e7a3c9197507e81ae7a783d745330ab)
after being ground down, I highly doubt they'll affect the balance much.
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I wouldn't be too worried about the wieght as much as I would be any misalignment and or warping from welding.
Either is a pretty non issue I would think at the relatively slow speeds that an axle sees.
Probably will only see about 2000 RPM and with the small radius about the axis of rotatoin, I don't see it being that big of a deal.
I could be, and probably am, wrong though.
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Some of the guys at the local driveshaft shop (Asheville Powertrain) can hand weld a driveshaft and they know by looking at and handling it if it needs balancing or not. Pretty crazy.
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Welds on his motor mount cups look scary, I can see the engine falling onto the highway at 90mph
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Welds on his motor mount cups look scary, I can see the engine falling onto the highway at 90mph
+1
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I'm aware of what plug welds are (no I didn't learn it in college), didn't look like he had a shaft all the way through the sleeve to justify plug welds all along the length. He's also got a bunch of extra weld on top there, unnecessary for plug welds.
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I wouldn't worry about the weight balance on those half-shafts, I'd be more concerned about their true. A bowed shaft is going to wipe out bearings. I don't think they weigh enough, spin fast enough, or have a large enough radius for the ounce (or w/e) that they out of balance to impact service life of the attached components.
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I wouldn't be too worried about the wieght as much as I would be any misalignment and or warping from welding.
Either is a pretty non issue I would think at the relatively slow speeds that an axle sees.
Probably will only see about 2000 RPM and with the small radius about the axis of rotatoin, I don't see it being that big of a deal.
I could be, and probably am, wrong though.
Well, it depends how you do it. If the pipe he used was a very snug fit, and he slid if over the axle for several times the diameter of the axle, then the two axles should be very close to parallel. Making several small tach welds before welding will help prevent it from warping when welding. Like when I did my driveshaft, I did a tiny tach, then turned 180* and did another tiny tach, then 90*, tach, 180, tach. So then it's got four tiny tach welds at 90* apart. Then did 4 more between those. Ground them down some, THEN I welded the entire thing out. Keeps it from warping when welding it out.
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I did your mom, then turned her 180* and did her some more, then 90* and then 180*, so I did your mom at 90* intervals. Then I let her cool off and did her in the spots in between. Then I grinded on her some, THEN I really laid a fat bead all over her.
:yes:
lol
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I did your mom, then turned her 180* and did her some more, then 90* and then 180*, so I did your mom at 90* intervals. Then I let her cool off and did her in the spots in between. Then I grinded on her some, THEN I really laid a fat bead all over her.
:yes:
If you did, I wouldn't tell anybody. :)
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Everyone is WAY over thinking the balance thing. Just do like we do for square drive shafts using receiver tube for off road. Fill them 2/3rds full of gear oil, or oil, or transmission fluid, what ever you have around.
Natural balancer.
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I just fill your mom 2/3rd full of olive oil for my gear, a cnc broom handle, or whatever I have laying around.
Natural balancer
It was stale after the welding version.
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Your mom jokes have been stale for 20 years
Fucking your mom has been stale for 20 years.
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I'm aware of what plug welds are (no I didn't learn it in college), didn't look like he had a shaft all the way through the sleeve to justify plug welds all along the length. He's also got a bunch of extra weld on top there, unnecessary for plug welds.
Fab guy always bitch about engineers. You just happened to be the fodder for a good natured stab.
I wouldn't be too worried about the wieght as much as I would be any misalignment and or warping from welding.
Either is a pretty non issue I would think at the relatively slow speeds that an axle sees.
Probably will only see about 2000 RPM and with the small radius about the axis of rotatoin, I don't see it being that big of a deal.
I could be, and probably am, wrong though.
Well, it depends how you do it. If the pipe he used was a very snug fit, and he slid if over the axle for several times the diameter of the axle, then the two axles should be very close to parallel. Making several small tach welds before welding will help prevent it from warping when welding. Like when I did my driveshaft, I did a tiny tach, then turned 180* and did another tiny tach, then 90*, tach, 180, tach. So then it's got four tiny tach welds at 90* apart. Then did 4 more between those. Ground them down some, THEN I welded the entire thing out. Keeps it from warping when welding it out.
Agreed/
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I put a new clutch in my uncles 82 wagon a few weeks ago and was checking his out. While I had the cv out, I tried to put one of my old busted d axels into the hub, it was a no go. Then I looked at the brakes and thought If i were to build something like this I would also want to upgrade to at least a little bit larger rotor, and one that was vented too. I couldent belive it had a solid front rotor.
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Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. :'(
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Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. :'(
You probably wish you could weld too. Toysareme could give you some pointers on how to lay some beads instead of those rat turds you've been producing.
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Growing up, the family car was a 80' Civic 1500GL. That project is awsome, I'd roll that thing any day.
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LEED change your email/get ahold of you to REALhomemadeturbo.com...... NIGGER... That thread rocks
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am i the only one nervous about these welds? the idea is full of win, but some of the execution isnt
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv645%2Ficarusdown%2F2g%2520civic%2FIMG_1443.jpg&hash=0bb3cc512fafe1c81c2c51cabb11af3e8be367f0)
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You should really examine a pre-88 model Honda some time. They are not made out of thick robust steel like the later cars. I'd guess the shock towers are 18 gauge - any hotter with the MIG and it'd punch holes through.
While I'd have done it a little differently, I guarantee those mounts are just as strong as the OEM ones.
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i am perfectly fine with the metal thicknes. in a situation like that of welding a thicker metal to a thinner one, i like to run enough heat to get through the thicker metal but in very short bursts to not blow through the thinner metal.
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Yeah, he didn't weld that too well, obviously. You can't look at a MIG weld and tell if it got full penetration. It could look perfect and have 30% pen. You can see 1/2 of his welds aren't even melted into the body. It may not fail, but I would have welded that better for my own peace of mind. Like they said, more heat, go slower, something.
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Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. :'(
You probably wish you could weld too. Toysareme could give you some pointers on how to lay some beads instead of those rat turds you've been producing.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2F07-07-07_2234.jpg&hash=0b198d092f3f9188149e6bc49cb926659eae187d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2F07-07-07_2233.jpg&hash=27a67901730b7874e2abe5d7d604bb246a5c3bd5)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2F07-07-07_2126.jpg&hash=9545beeb806377d6ee973c54cc2e5438536374c6)
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What's wrong with my welding?
Besides, the stock motor mounts are half the thickness, and held on by about six small spot welds. The frame will twist before that mount fails.
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What's wrong with my welding?
Nothing, I'm just giving you shit because you have talked shit to me on the old site. :)
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I see, in that case, you're black. :P
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I don't know if I should even post here,
but HMT RHMT has always been a huge influence on my building.
The cruise missle comment comes from comparing an 89 CRX which I drove for 7 years to a 94 civic which I drove for 4 years. The CRX had lightning response and despite it's slowness was 'fun' to drive. The 94 coupe was probably capable, but did not have anywhere near the responsiveness that the CRX had. Hence the 'cruise missle' comparison. The turbo 94 went in a straight line very quickly, but that was all. Once I started driving the 1980 civic, all I could think of was the quick turn in and go-kart handling like my CRX, and the 1980 has completely blown struts/shocks while the 94 had pretty tight KYB's + adjustable coilovers. (Can't wait to upgrade the 1980 susp. Once it's up and running I'm positive that traction will be my #1 issue. I'll likely fabricate some custom heim joint radius arms with a separate sway bar setup - opposed to stock which integrates the two.)
As for the axles, the L. axle is nearly perfect. The R. axle has a tiny bit of runout. If it causes vibration or problems in the vehicle, the axles will be sourced out very quickly now that I have prototypes but the inner tripod joints should absorb most of the heat. (Raxles was unresponsive when I first asked them about 1980 Civic-1998 Integra custom hybrid axles. Go figure ::) ) I have no worries about the shafts. They are sleeved AND plug welded for strength (as JD noted). I have minimal machine tools, but lots of fabrication capabilities at my shop, so they are the best I could manage. I figure the diameter is so minimal that the runout will hopefully be negligible. If it chews up my bearings. Well, that sucks, but I can move on from that.
The mounts are 1/8" plate welded inside and out and they pass all the way through the frame rails, so again, I'm not too concerned, though I may go back and add some trusses to make them bullet proof. I KNOW THAT MY WELDING LOOKS LIKE SHIET. It's not very easy to weld 1/8" plate to 18 guage sheet. As figured out earlier, blowing out is too easy despite dragging the heat from the plate to the sheet. The really crappy weld you see is me trying to melt my earlier weld into something respectable without success. Underneath that surface weld it is pretty well damn penetrated. Again though, I may add some trusses to shore it up since the factory mounts, while thin sheet, are ribbed and folded for additional strength.
As for the dolling-up of the engine bay, well, it's my car, will be my DD, and I've got 6mo. into this build, so suck it. I do what I want.
Oh, and you'll have to keep checking HT or 1stgencivic for updates if you give a damn. But I'm not doing it all over again here. It'll be running very soon.
kisses.
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Fuck the axles and mounts, it's the MAP sensor I'm worried about. :P
I'd have suggested putting some plate below the welds so you at least have something it fused to if it did blow out. Then again, I've helped plate 3 racecars worth of frames. Redstandardzchatch's car should give you some idea. His F22 swap in his crx has a rediculous amount of bracing for the mounts.
I haven't seen this asked, so what EMS are you going to run?
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Fuck the axles and mounts, it's the MAP sensor I'm worried about. :P
I'd have suggested putting some plate below the welds so you at least have something it fused to if it did blow out. Then again, I've helped plate 3 racecars worth of frames. Redstandardzchatch's car should give you some idea. His F22 swap in his crx has a rediculous amount of bracing for the mounts.
I haven't seen this asked, so what EMS are you going to run?
Actually, this whole setup is already a proven running platform under base tune. This engine/trans/tirbo/ecu is pulled straight from my '94. (Right now I'm driving a 92 Geo Metro on loan as I have no drivable car.)
The setup uses crome with zeitronix WBO2 and ostrich.
Thanks for reiterating the engine mount concerns. IT's easier to fix them now, then later when the moter is hanging out the back like a chewed up, inflamed hemorrhoid.
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If you want DSS axles for it, let me know. Frank loves my boss, my boss loves me, custom work like that bills high but it'd probably be the best price quote you get on it.
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I think the two front mounts are just fine. They actually look stouter than mine. However, I wouldn't use that stock rear mount, That's the only thing keeping the engine from torquing, as the other two are close to being inline with the rotational axis of the engine/drivetrain. The rear is really the one that absorbs the direct loads from the engine.
This is how I built mine the first time:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2FDSC00113.jpg&hash=c36c324d317a0973da52a6473aebb256fe4ca276)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2FDSC00114.jpg&hash=5b1bccd868467d99b34a1955eda666db52b1d7b5)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2FDSC00112.jpg&hash=519aace25efa0e20a8833305ca6ef538958155f8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2FDSC00090.jpg&hash=60b7c806fcf6935751b0c7eb65fc378a1dd53139)
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But with that bracket bolting onto the stock mount "pad", there was way too much rotational flex. So I re-engineered it to use hockey pucks:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl290%2Fklyph333%2F07-08-07_1915.jpg&hash=7ece0fa35b812287185b5bfa5afbfc38220f81d0)
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Now I can stand on the valve cover, and the only thing that moves is the suspension. Your setup may work just fine for you, seeing as yours is a 2G and mine's a 1G, but you might try putting some weight on your intake mani and seeing how much flex you've got.