:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: danz on December 21, 2009, 09:05:46 PM
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my friend darin and i fabbed this up for his ED drag car. it weighs 1770lb and will be less when we are done with it. vitara a6 block y8 head, zex cam, 50 trim 70 ar BEP t3/t4
hardest part was the first runner, holding the turbo in place and tacking up the 1st runner. PITA.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Fturbmanni2.jpg&hash=06c0e25c6819ac72cff099741b98c8adf42006d2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Fturbmanni1.jpg&hash=6cfd9a7b9572e0905567f991c516ea099ee1102b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh4.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FSy7TqVaEAJI%2FAAAAAAAABWo%2FD1efN38AY_I%2Fs800%2FDSC_7963.JPG&hash=6c549b17c1b04a8cf7a4aeffc8a3bfe6d3f3247a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FSy7VMTx-xjI%2FAAAAAAAABXQ%2Fepjpc8L5-hI%2Fs800%2FDSC_7928.JPG&hash=b1b2124c67caf59c7237b2f311f74ac8841f37e1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh4.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FSy7UbHvlVjI%2FAAAAAAAABW0%2FCsh3N4_c2pg%2Fs800%2FDSC_7971.JPG&hash=3047b9d72a6f6ea4c9c0e1babc0705d4ffded37e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FSy7TykDNJfI%2FAAAAAAAABWs%2Fp5zh80Ir1U0%2Fs800%2FDSC_7968.JPG&hash=5f4faa560701fae37a90607b4d16fa70066c1a38)
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NICE!
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very nice work!
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Sexy as hell, obviously. ;)
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That is pretty fucking sweet!
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O0 :noel: :yes:
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1770 lb :o
Looks awesome
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The mani weighs 50 by itself! That thing is pimp.
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Very nice. Jealous of the PA race jack, some cocksucker stole mine.
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This thread is Grand Wizard approved. :noel:
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what do you guys think about running the WG out the bottom or toward the block and running the dump tube straight up, between runner 1 and 2, and out the hood?? :)
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I'd rock the fuck out of it :yes:
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what do you guys think about running the WG out the bottom or toward the block and running the dump tube straight up, between runner 1 and 2, and out the hood?? :)
as long as the DP is also going out the hood sounds good to me.
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;D pro
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super sexy ;)
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looks awesome! i wanted to do a similar setup on a car i was sponsoring, but he wanted to keep the car streetable so i couldn't convince him to go with this style setup.
i'd run the wg under the oil pan along side the downpipe.
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Nice work sir! :noel:
I wish I could build something awesome like that some day :)
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awesome work, love that front mount deal... Im feeling another bumper with a big hole and a velosity stack out there O0
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Fucken sick!!
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really nice fab O0 , sorry for the newb question, but will it be braced somwhow to the block or somewhere or is it strong enough to hold the turbo as is?
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That manifold being made from sch40 is less likely to crack then the head it is attached to.
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Nice work Danz, we gonna see it at the track this year?
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Nice work dan hope to see another fast D at the track next year :yes:
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That manifold being made from sch40 is less likely to crack then the head it is attached to.
Schedule 40 still cracks.
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That manifold being made from sch40 is less likely to crack then the head it is attached to.
Schedule 40 still cracks.
Sch 40 mild steel does have a possibility of cracking, as does all metal, but far less then a typical SS manifold does. Not only that I would still bet that if it is welded well, the head would be more likely to crack then that mani. Mild steel is very malleable, pliable stuff.
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On an internally balanced engine, sure.
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It weighs 1770lb
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Fturbmanni2.jpg&hash=06c0e25c6819ac72cff099741b98c8adf42006d2)
This
is a lie. This does not weigh 1770lbs
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Nice work :noel:
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Is the radiator gonna fit
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It weighs 1770lb
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Fturbmanni2.jpg&hash=06c0e25c6819ac72cff099741b98c8adf42006d2)
This
is a lie. This does not weigh 1770lbs
Not even on Jupiter
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looks awesome! i wanted to do a similar setup on a car i was sponsoring, but he wanted to keep the car streetable so i couldn't convince him to go with this style setup.
i'd run the wg under the oil pan along side the downpipe.
downpipe going out bumper. :) recognize your flanges aaron? :)
really nice fab O0 , sorry for the newb question, but will it be braced somwhow to the block or somewhere or is it strong enough to hold the turbo as is?
if it cracks (i doubt it) ill make a heim mount where the AC bracket usually is. i dont think it will crack.
Nice work Danz, we gonna see it at the track this year?
hell ya. the question is, will i see YOU at the track this year??
Nice work dan hope to see another fast D at the track next year :yes:
hell ya man. gonna be at least two big D's next year. maybe even 3 if my buddy vinh can get his boost controller working. he made 277whp @ 13psi on a 60 trim t04e. should be wicked on 25-30psi.
That manifold being made from sch40 is less likely to crack then the head it is attached to.
Schedule 40 still cracks.
Sch 40 mild steel does have a possibility of cracking, as does all metal, but far less then a typical SS manifold does. Not only that I would still bet that if it is welded well, the head would be more likely to crack then that mani. Mild steel is very malleable, pliable stuff.
i am very happy with the welds. the gaps were great almost everywhere, and 90% of the welds are flush with the material with excellent penetration. by far my finest welding, ever.
This
is a lie. This does not weigh 1770lbs
busted. i estimate it weighs about 15lb
Is the radiator gonna fit
yep, with a stock fan assembly. now go stick an aids needle in your pee hole.
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I vote for fail, it has perfect pairing for a divided turbine and you opted out...wtf? Then you could have used a real turbo, hx35/40 hybrid.
Other than that it looks like a cool setup. Filter or v-stack?
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haha ya... i didnt think it was going to be paired properly... meh.
who wants 2 waste gates anyways.
ill let the owner decide filter or vstack. i think he wants a v-stack but that might just be for the track, and one of them mushroom filters for the street/drive to the track.
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Then you could have used a real turbo, hx35/40 hybrid
You mean HE351CW
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Not really, I mean hx35/hx40 hybrid. You can get an hx40 cheap and get a remachined hx35 turbine housing, or just a hx40 wheel/cover machined & rebalaned on your hx35 (cheaper than any GT-BB turbo). The he351cw is less common ($$) and doesn't come off a truck with a divided turbine housing. It also has that stupid 90* compressor outlet.
haha ya... i didnt think it was going to be paired properly... meh.
who wants 2 waste gates anyways.
ill let the owner decide filter or vstack. i think he wants a v-stack but that might just be for the track, and one of them mushroom filters for the street/drive to the track.
You cut the WG's inlet elbow/tube in half, weld together with a divider, and the pulses don't come back past the other side of the valve. Divided turbines don't have 2 wheels, and they still work fine.
I think you should try to make it the 1st 800hp pumpgas D16. NO METH either...
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sure why not 800whp.
correction for the win.
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Not really, I mean hx35/hx40 hybrid. You can get an hx40 cheap and get a remachined hx35 turbine housing, or just a hx40 wheel/cover machined & rebalaned on your hx35 (cheaper than any GT-BB turbo). The he351cw is less common ($$) and doesn't come off a truck with a divided turbine housing. It also has that stupid 90* compressor outlet
True, but IMHO it's a better setup for sohc motors anyways. HY35 turbine(smaller than HX35) with an HX40 wheel.
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the more and more i read between the lines the more and more a large hot side seems like the ticket.
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At some point you have to make the turbine larger to support more (power) flow through the hot side, but when you get into the small engine + big turbo late spooling game it's usually best to keep the turbine and housing as small as possible.
If you ever watch the guys with the REALLY big hotsides, they are trailered drag cars that suck on the street. When they go to stage they make the other guy go first if they can, pre-stage with a linelock and antilag to spool up the turbo, and then bump the linelock to get fully staged and then immediately FTL before the light drops. That's a LOT to do if you don't learn your car. I know you have heart, danz, but think long and hard on whether you're ready to go from fast streetcar to full racecar.
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At some point you have to make the turbine larger to support more (power) flow through the hot side, but when you get into the small engine + big turbo late spooling game it's usually best to keep the turbine and housing as small as possible.
If you ever watch the guys with the REALLY big hotsides, they are trailered drag cars that suck on the street. When they go to stage they make the other guy go first if they can, pre-stage with a linelock and antilag to spool up the turbo, and then bump the linelock to get fully staged and then immediately FTL before the light drops. That's a LOT to do if you don't learn your car. I know you have heart, danz, but think long and hard on whether you're ready to go from fast streetcar to full racecar.
O0 you gay
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And you picked up on it, big fish. PM me your number, I'll put you in my phonesex rotation with Spiker, DMC, Sewell, and Mista Bone.
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Keep your shit a street car, i hate how my car drives on the street, Fuck i hate how it drives at the track. I wish i still had my little eg hatch with ac, ps, working sunroof, and would down the 1/4 @147mph. I fucked up , i ruined it to go faster, blah blah.
I am actually going to use my direct port kit to clean up my cars mannerisms.
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i have 3 civics, and i dont really need 3 street cars. 1 1991 si winter beater, 1 1990 cx (old 10 sec car) getting an NA D that will stomp B swaps all day, and the 1998 hatch drag car.
my 1998 hatch is going to be my drag car. my only concern will be avoiding pigs on the drive to the track. not really looking forward to insuring 2 cars. need to figure out a way to cheat the system....
interesting you mention direct port. :)
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+1 on not having a drag car on the street. i have a 91 hatch that is being turned into a 100% track car and an eg coupe to have as a fun street car.
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i have 3 civics, and i dont really need 3 street cars. 1 1991 si winter beater, 1 1990 cx (old 10 sec car) getting an NA D that will stomp B swaps all day, and the 1998 hatch drag car.
my 1998 hatch is going to be my drag car. my only concern will be avoiding pigs on the drive to the track. not really looking forward to insuring 2 cars. need to figure out a way to cheat the system....
interesting you mention direct port. :)
Boost+Spray=the shiznitz I'm really excited to see how the spool changes on my 372.
You playing with a direct port also?
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i like to call it "Insta-Spool"
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not really looking forward to insuring 2 cars. need to figure out a way to cheat the system....
"borrow" someones plates from down your street for the night, or "transfer" plates from your other civic...
also, the wastgate thru the hood has a badass 4th gear/long load time effect, where the hot exhaust gasses start to glow red for a couple of inches out of the tube. I have this done on my colt, and hitting the limiter makes flames... sufficient to roast a smokie.
Phil
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also, the wastgate thru the hood has a badass 4th gear/long load time effect, where the hot exhaust gasses start to glow red for a couple of inches out of the tube.
Sounds like a knock feedback loop. Not ideal.
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I like this thread....EXCELENT :)
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also, the wastgate thru the hood has a badass 4th gear/long load time effect, where the hot exhaust gasses start to glow red for a couple of inches out of the tube.
Sounds like a knock feedback loop. Not ideal.
logged with no knock. det can on the other hand, well... i'll catch it next time
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I've zero experience with a super short hood exit DP, but I have stood ten feet away from a 3.5 foot length of 4" DP while taking 800 whp pulls and never saw anything of the sort. There are a number of things that could still be different between the setups that would cause that, and still be perfectly acceptable, but it made my ears prick up when you said it.
I've never been a fan of KS-based tuning, every so often it goes horribly wrong. I like them there as a safety measure *after* you get done with a proper tune.
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Nice work nog that mani is serious business O0
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Next season I suspect will bring about a new round of fast imports, i know a few people building up some pretty serious hatches, civics, festivas..
JD, i completely agree about the KS based tuning, i've had to redo some AEM cars' timing maps because the original tuner "just let the knock sensor take care of excess timing.." Yeah cool when i have to take about 10* out just to stop the rattle. As for my own stuff, at the time I was doing "diesel" based tuning, "more fuel 'till the ol' egt get too hot." Maybe there was a bit too much fuel/meth in the mixture. Haha!
Danz, this ED looks like Eli's car, minus the BBS wheels. Looking forward to watching these 2 cars side by each.
NICE WORK
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That's my #1 problem with AEM factory certifications, talk about a crew of guys who boost comp and leave a car idling at 11:1 AFR without even turning on O2 feedback despite the in-car wideband being hardwired. AEM handles KS based off of the volume it generates, not the frequencies it's resonating at, which makes it a cripple device at best. Sure thing, there is a correlation between volume and knock, but it's well AFTER knock has set in on a lot of cars.
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manifold looks great and moroe pics of the car ?
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now how is a set up like this in shitty weather ? or is this only a nice day drag car? ..... what im askin is if water gets in does it pose a major prob or is i some how evaporated in the turbine before it get to the intake?
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now how is a set up like this in shitty weather ? or is this only a nice day drag car? ..... what im askin is if water gets in does it pose a major prob or is i some how evaporated in the turbine before it get to the intake?
Its like water injection, its just called Water induction nigga!!
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now how is a set up like this in shitty weather ? or is this only a nice day drag car? ..... what im askin is if water gets in does it pose a major prob or is i some how evaporated in the turbine before it get to the intake?
water induction.
i also heard OC injection works well. it does for my colon....
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do you put the OC directly in your colon?
i like to let it travel through my digestive system before it gets to the colon.
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it just slides in so nicely.
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I would go with the 3 16th to box. The frames are 1/8th, but remember, they are c channeled that adds to strength. You are putting a piece of flat metal in there...my .02
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what the fuck are you talking about.
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I would go with the 3 16th to box. The frames are 1/8th, but remember, they are c channeled that adds to strength. You are putting a piece of flat metal in there...my .02
Fuck you
Where the fuck is your intro thread?
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Now that is RHMT at its finest, beautiful. Now make me one for a b18 with an s372. :noel:
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it just slides in so nicely.
thats what she said
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sicks! :D
i'd like to see more jobs like this in EDs civics.. ill make a better manifold soon and i was worried about making a good one that fits good in the bit bay of ED civics.
wanna see it done!!
more pics about your traction bars?
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sicks! :D
i'd like to see more jobs like this in EDs civics.. ill make a better manifold soon and i was worried about making a good one that fits good in the bit bay of ED civics.
wanna see it done!!
more pics about your traction bars?
it fits!! it took work but it fits.
what traction bar? the one on the blue car? i can show you some pics when the owner posts them up. we fabbed up a front mount bracket for it this past weekend.
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yep, i meant blue car. ill fab my own traction soon and ill get Z6 head this days, next month i'd like to rebuild it if A6 engine doesnt blow before.. and ill improve my actual log manifold making some manifold like that, really looks good.
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heres a pic of the front mount walter.
we boxed the two arms in, and welded the one arm to the squared up part of the traction bar. it shouldnt move, at all.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Flow5-1.jpg&hash=738eb0282c29b498f2f822d7e9f6244736fb689b)
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Very nice work sir :noel: