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[Eggylshatch]

Pulled out spark plugs, dripping, a different one is now fouled, looked down the hole and in the cylinders I could see liquid on top of the pistons.

I want to burn this thing.

what kind of fluid?  when it rains it pours mang.  for some reason all problems seem to happen at the same time and confound everything. 

[onlyflash944]

Pulled out spark plugs, dripping, a different one is now fouled, looked down the hole and in the cylinders I could see liquid on top of the pistons.

I want to burn this thing.

what kind of fluid?  when it rains it pours mang.  for some reason all problems seem to happen at the same time and confound everything. 

exactly why i take my time and fix/change shit out when ever something is remotely in doubt, especially when it comes to putting together engines.

[Jorsher]

Pretty much everything I could replace was replaced when I put it together, just to make sure something stupid didn't fail.

Still getting oil in the radiator, or at least seem to, oil level in engine isn't dropping but there's pure oil in the radiator once the engine is running.  Don't know if it was left over from last time or is fresh stuff.

Spark plugs still fouling and it's still too advanced.  As you can see above the mechanical timing is spot on, but the ignition timing can't be retarded enough.

I've tried everything from setting the timing off a little, to moving the distributor from fully retarded to fully advanced and moved all the plug wires one spot over on the distributor.  Tried replacing the FPR.  I've got code 10 twice now, but thats out of starting it 20+ times.

Idle is still rough, rpm fluctuates, car stalls if I give it gas and let off.  I put a screwdriver to each injector and my ear just to make sure they're all opening/closing.  If I let the car run for a while when it about gets to operating temp it will suddenly die.  There's some sort of liquid on the piston tops when I look down in them, maybe an oil/coolant mix.

Really sick of messing with it and want to just tear it all down and start fresh.

[Eggylshatch]

try soaking up the fluid with as stout paper towel or a white towel to see what it is.  And you're POSITIVE that the firing order is correct?  Did you make sure the aluminum epoxy was dried and solid before putting it back together?

[Jorsher]

Yes I did and I'm positive the firing order is correct.

It sat for 2-3 days before the car was started.

[snm95ls]

Did you convert to OBD1?

What ECU are you running?

Has it been socketed?

What injectors?

[Jorsher]

Cliffs notes:

- Got swap together last weekend. Seemingly ran well. Did a few rippers before it slightly overheated, suspected because coolant lines weren't bled.  Parked it.
- Next day went to change oil, noticed oil sprayed all over the back of the engine.  Drained oil and only 1.5qt came back out.  Put more in, started the car, and oil overflowed from radiator a few seconds later.
- Removed head, found a hole between oil and coolant passages.  Filled with epoxy, let dry for a couple days, was rock hard.
- Found the chingy oil feed line was leaking. Had a shop make a new one and the leak was fixed.
- Put it all back together the same way it was before. Vacuum lines, coolant hoses, wiring, etc is all back where it was.  Mechanical timing is perfect.  Ignition timing is still too advanced with distributor fully retarded.
- Have got a code 10 twice out of 20-30+ starts (IAT error IIRC)
- Starts rough, plugs eventually foul, when I pull the plugs I can see a liquid in the cylinders but not sure exactly what it is (yet).
- Idles low at start, speeds up to the proper 750rpm, still rough and usually 1 or 2 cylinders will skip occasionally, sometimes they skip more than fire.  After it gets near operating temp it eventually just suddent dies.  After dying it's hard to start
- Oil is in the new radiator, but oil level in engine doesnt seem to be going down.  Am not sure if this is oil left from last time or new.
- Timing is correct.  For sure.  Definitely.  See pictures above.
- Firing order is correct.  Positively set properly.  Without a doubt.
- I have a td68u distributor, 22t water pump, gsr oil pump, gsr timing belt, gsr plugs/wires
- Have tried a different FPR to make sure it wasn't failed.
- Put screwdriver from my ear to the injectors to make sure I could hear them open/close
- Spark plugs are black/sooty.  A couple times i pulled them out they were dripping wet, thought it was gas but it wouldnt burn?
- Am running a GSR basemap on a chipped P28 with O2 disabled. It worked fine the first time I put it together and nothing has changed with it.  Solid CEL when service connector is jumped, no CEL when it's not.
- First time it ran (with correct ignition timing), I had to turn the distributor all the way forward for ignition timing to line up.  Now, all the way forward is not enough.

I'm not sure how it went from running great, despite a couple problems, to running like shit when the problems were fixed.

Expect a big "for sale" thread coming from me soon so I can get some money to buy a known-good block and head.  Just need to get previous sold item shipped before I sell anything more...

Still open to ideas but it sounds like numerous problems...

[Doug]

Take out full coverage and I will steals it hbwajaajjaa

[chris]

Did you ever buy new plugs while all of this was happening?



You sure you have the correct plug running to the iat sensor? Iat and iacv use the same plug pattern.


Did you drain your oil to get all the water out?

[Jorsher]

Tried new plugs, a couple started missing within a minute.

Because of the way the harness is, I'm fairly sure none of the plugs are switched.  I have the plug from the wire bundle that goes to the injectors going to the IAT.  The plug from the bundle that goes to the sensors on the back of the block is going to the IACV.  I don't think the wire that I have going to the IAT would even reach to the IACV, and it ran fine this way last time

Have replaced the oil.

Someone suggested maybe the distributor is bad since I had to retard it fully to get the ignition timing correct last time, and now that retarding it fully isn't enough.