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[dvst8r]

Everyone is WAY over thinking the balance thing. Just do like we do for square drive shafts using receiver tube for off road. Fill them 2/3rds full of gear oil, or oil, or transmission fluid, what ever you have around.

Natural balancer.

[dvst8r]

I just fill your mom 2/3rd full of olive oil for my gear, a cnc broom handle, or whatever I have laying around.

Natural balancer

It was stale after the welding version.

[dvst8r]

Your mom jokes have been stale for 20 years

Fucking your mom has been stale for 20 years.

[snm95ls]

I'm aware of what plug welds are (no I didn't learn it in college), didn't look like he had a shaft all the way through the sleeve to justify plug welds all along the length. He's also got a bunch of extra weld on top there, unnecessary for plug welds.

Fab guy always bitch about engineers.  You just happened to be the fodder for a good natured stab.

I wouldn't be too worried about the wieght as much as I would be any misalignment and or warping from welding.

Either is a pretty non issue I would think at the relatively slow speeds that an axle sees.

Probably will only see about 2000 RPM and with the small radius about the axis of rotatoin, I don't see it being that big of a deal.

I could be, and probably am, wrong though.

Well, it depends how you do it. If the pipe he used was a very snug fit, and he slid if over the axle for several times the diameter of the axle, then the two axles should be very close to parallel. Making several small tach welds before welding will help prevent it from warping when welding. Like when I did my driveshaft, I did a tiny tach, then turned 180* and did another tiny tach, then 90*, tach, 180, tach. So then it's got four tiny tach welds at 90* apart. Then did 4 more between those. Ground them down some,  THEN I welded the entire thing out. Keeps it from warping when welding it out.

Agreed/

[ratcityrex]

I put a new clutch in my uncles 82 wagon a few weeks ago and was checking his out. While I had the cv out, I tried to put one of my old busted d axels into the hub, it was a no go. Then I looked at the brakes and thought If i were to build something like this I would also want to upgrade to at least a little bit larger rotor, and one that was vented too. I couldent belive it had a solid front rotor.

[klyph]

Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. 

[Adam Lofton]

Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. 

You probably wish you could weld too. Toysareme could give you some pointers on how to lay some beads instead of those rat turds you've been producing.

[BangBusMaster]

Growing up, the family car was a 80' Civic 1500GL. That project is awsome, I'd roll that thing any day.

[widebody93]

LEED change your email/get ahold of you to REALhomemadeturbo.com...... NIGGER... That thread rocks

[PhilStubbs]

am i the only one nervous about these welds? the idea is full of win, but some of the execution isnt

[Joseph Davis]

You should really examine a pre-88 model Honda some time.  They are not made out of thick robust steel like the later cars.  I'd guess the shock towers are 18 gauge - any hotter with the MIG and it'd punch holes through.

While I'd have done it a little differently, I guarantee those mounts are just as strong as the OEM ones.

[PhilStubbs]

i am perfectly fine with the metal thicknes. in a situation like that of welding a thicker metal to a thinner one, i like to run enough heat to get through the thicker metal but in very short bursts to not blow through the thinner metal.

[patsmx5]

Yeah, he didn't weld that too well, obviously. You can't look at a MIG weld and tell if it got full penetration. It could look perfect and have 30% pen. You can see 1/2 of his welds aren't even melted into the body. It may not fail, but I would have welded that better for my own peace of mind. Like they said, more heat, go slower, something.

[klyph]

Makes me wish I had a decent garage to work on mine. 

You probably wish you could weld too. Toysareme could give you some pointers on how to lay some beads instead of those rat turds you've been producing.

What's wrong with my welding?

Besides, the stock motor mounts are half the thickness, and held on by about six small spot welds. The frame will twist before that mount fails.

[Adam Lofton]

What's wrong with my welding?

Nothing, I'm just giving you shit because you have talked shit to me on the old site.   

[klyph]

I see, in that case, you're black. 

[turbogeek]

I don't know if I should even post here,
but HMT RHMT has always been a huge influence on my building.

The cruise missle comment comes from comparing an 89 CRX which I drove for 7 years to a 94 civic which I drove for 4 years.  The CRX had lightning response and despite it's slowness was 'fun' to drive.  The 94 coupe was probably capable, but did not have anywhere near the responsiveness that the CRX had.  Hence the 'cruise missle' comparison.  The turbo 94 went in a straight line very quickly, but that was all.  Once I started driving the 1980 civic, all I could think of was the quick turn in and go-kart handling like my CRX, and the 1980 has completely blown struts/shocks while the 94 had pretty tight KYB's + adjustable coilovers.  (Can't wait to upgrade the 1980 susp.  Once it's up and running I'm positive that traction will be my #1 issue.  I'll likely fabricate some custom heim joint radius arms with a separate sway bar setup - opposed to stock which integrates the two.)

As for the axles, the L. axle is nearly perfect.  The R. axle has a tiny bit of runout.  If it causes vibration or problems in the vehicle, the axles will be sourced out very quickly now that I have prototypes but the inner tripod joints should absorb most of the heat.  (Raxles was unresponsive when I first asked them about 1980 Civic-1998 Integra custom hybrid axles.  Go figure )  I have no worries about the shafts.  They are sleeved AND plug welded for strength (as JD noted).  I have minimal machine tools, but lots of fabrication capabilities at my shop, so they are the best I could manage.  I figure the diameter is so minimal that the runout will hopefully be negligible.  If it chews up my bearings.  Well, that sucks, but I can move on from that.

The mounts are 1/8" plate welded inside and out and they pass all the way through the frame rails, so again, I'm not too concerned, though I may go back and add some trusses to make them bullet proof.  I KNOW THAT MY WELDING LOOKS LIKE SHIET.  It's not very easy to weld 1/8" plate to 18 guage sheet.  As figured out earlier, blowing out is too easy despite dragging the heat from the plate to the sheet.  The really crappy weld you see is me trying to melt my earlier weld into something respectable without success.  Underneath that surface weld it is pretty well damn penetrated.  Again though, I may add some trusses to shore it up since the factory mounts, while thin sheet, are ribbed and folded for additional strength.

As for the dolling-up of the engine bay, well, it's my car, will be my DD, and I've got 6mo. into this build, so suck it.  I do what I want.

Oh, and you'll have to keep checking HT or 1stgencivic for updates if you give a damn.  But I'm not doing it all over again here.  It'll be running very soon.

kisses.

[HiProfile]

Fuck the axles and mounts, it's the MAP sensor I'm worried about.

I'd have suggested putting some plate below the welds so you at least have something it fused to if it did blow out. Then again, I've helped plate 3 racecars worth of frames. Redstandardzchatch's car should give you some idea. His F22 swap in his crx has a rediculous amount of bracing for the mounts.

I haven't seen this asked, so what EMS are you going to run?

[turbogeek]

Fuck the axles and mounts, it's the MAP sensor I'm worried about.

I'd have suggested putting some plate below the welds so you at least have something it fused to if it did blow out. Then again, I've helped plate 3 racecars worth of frames. Redstandardzchatch's car should give you some idea. His F22 swap in his crx has a rediculous amount of bracing for the mounts.

I haven't seen this asked, so what EMS are you going to run?

Actually, this whole setup is already a proven running platform under base tune.  This engine/trans/tirbo/ecu is pulled straight from my '94.  (Right now I'm driving a 92 Geo Metro on loan as I have no drivable car.)

The setup uses crome with zeitronix WBO2 and ostrich.

Thanks for reiterating the engine mount concerns.  IT's easier to fix them now, then later when the moter is hanging out the back like a chewed up, inflamed hemorrhoid.

[Joseph Davis]

If you want DSS axles for it, let me know.  Frank loves my boss, my boss loves me, custom work like that bills high but it'd probably be the best price quote you get on it.

[klyph]

I think the two front mounts are just fine. They actually look stouter than mine. However, I wouldn't use that stock rear mount, That's the only thing keeping the engine from torquing, as the other two are close to being inline with the rotational axis of the engine/drivetrain. The rear is really the one that absorbs the direct loads from the engine.

This is how I built mine the first time:






But with that bracket bolting onto the stock mount "pad", there was way too much rotational flex. So I re-engineered it to use hockey pucks:







Now I can stand on the valve cover, and the only thing that moves is the suspension. Your setup may work just fine for you, seeing as yours is a 2G and mine's a 1G, but you might try putting some weight on your intake mani and seeing how much flex you've got.