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[NoPistons!]

mine developed end play and worse side play just running at idle....bastad.



What would the ideal bearing to turbine shaft clearance in a dynamic seal style oil cooled journal chra?    Basic garret t3/t4 copy.   Plan on scooping up a kit tonight.



  No noticeable wheel damage.  Just small nicks on the housing.   $30 and hoping to get 5-10k out of it on low boost worth giving it a shot?

[ratcityrex]

Was this used or new when u got it?

[NoPistons!]

New.    Had some side play fresh out the box.  Tightened up nice after i filled the chra up with some oil (off car, non running) and then set it aside for storage.  I had it apart but it went back together in exact same orientation.  I wanted to make sure there wasn't metal shavings or other typical ching chong bullshit up with it.   Heat marks on turbine shaft from what i could only assume was them balancing it on a jerry rigged tire machine using a dry bronze bearing or something....  They were like "you could send it in".   I sent pictures, asked if i was getting a new turbo and got the run around.  Fuck that.   CX RACING is the company btw.

[NoPistons!]

I'll update with pics here in a little but i just got done taking everything but the larger bronze shaft bearings out.  I'll have to modify a pair of my snap ring pliers tips.

It's been a nice, cool afternoon so i thought i'd enjoy the outdoors then bring it on inside





I should add this is a 70mm comp wheel ching chong. Last time i had it apart (inspection) i had poop analog $5 bargain basket calipers.


Turbine shaft measurement:

10mm on the wide end (shaft bearings), 6mm on the narrow end (thrust collar/bearing)

53mm from turbine bearing seat to the step.



Dynamic bearing thrust collar.

bearing ID-   6.5mm
Thrust bearing journal OD- 9.4mm
Thrust contact (via oil film) surface 2 surface distance- 4.6mm
Stack height: 18.3mm

270* thrust bearing:

End play thickness/thrust contact-  4.1mm
Bearing ID -10.6mm



Chra journal bearings:

Compressor side- 10.2mm

Exhaust side- to be determined




End play is MINIMAL, less than half a mm (checks out with that gap difference in the thrust collar/bearing) but enough to make an audible clunk when you push and pull on a wheel.  No visual wear anywhere but on the dynamic seal bearing a little. Compressor and exhaust wheels came out fine.  Turbine shaft looks as clean as it was when i polished it out with toothpaste and a shoe string (true story).  Doesn't look like it ran dry but there wasn't a whole lot of residual oil in the chra.  Some had started to weep past the rubber piston seal between the compressor plate and bearing housing.



No oil here though.






Opting to rebuild it because i'm in a bit of a pinch right now.  Selecting a kit that's within spec is where i'm seeing grey.  There is the option to go steel 360* thrust for roughly $100.   Bronze 360* thrust without collar (none pictured) for about $50-60 and standard 270 bronze with thrust collar for $35.    Need shit quickly.  Doesn't help it's holiday weekend.

[ratcityrex]

Holiday weekend? Next weekend maybe... I used a standard kit ($35) when I rebuilt mine. It lasted a year at 20psi, before the seals ate themselves. Big thing is making sure eveything is balanced. I sent my wheel setup out and had it balanced and when it came back eveything was indexed, marked and balanced for me.

[PhilStubbs]

I have never put 1/4 of the thought into rebuilding a Ching Ching turbo as even your first post, toss a kit in it and go.

[NoPistons!]

I had to put it back together so i could idle my car for a little bit.  Ended up being a bit tighter this go.

I've decided the wheels should be re-balanced just in case.

As far as 99.9 percent of the cheap kits, they dont list bearing sizes and chances are good if you get em on the phone someone who doesn't speak english will answer.  The ones that do come in a .439" oversize.  Garretts specs are .4012  That's what gets under my skin.  Garret t3/t4 10mm shaft turbos run .4012" bearing.  I'm in spec there so what i will do is request gpop shop give me new 270*  thrust bearing and a thrust collar along with the balancing service.

$165 turbo + $115 in service parts = pretty damn good price considering it's what they call a "super 60".   60/63 housings and a 70mm comp wheel.  Nice for what i want out of my car.

[NoPistons!]

I took some measurements of the blown t3/t4 i just picked up. 

Seems that 10mm shaft diameter is the norm and 53mm end to end on the journal bearing contact area with these types.  That's good.  I mean it's good within the nearest thousandth of an inch good. 




OOOOH and um this 360* bearing/collar is super close.   i just got fits way tighter on the thrust collar than a brand new 270*.  I like it.  I like it alot.



Another observation is the dowel pin holes are very exact.  Meaning i may have to tap this thing onto my chra or slightly ream the holes.  The concave cog spring on the compressor backplate and the turbine shaft line that up when you torque things down anyway, right?



270* bearing holes are reamed out enough for drop in on the dowels with some movement allowed.




If nobody gave thought or time to things the world would be a boring place.  A more retardeder place than it already is.   Spell check says "retardeder" is a word. 

[PhilStubbs]

Every turbo I have rebuilt always needed a small amount of force to seat the thrust bearing

[NoPistons!]

Are you talking about locking the piston seal ring inside of the compressor backing plate or seating the thrust bearing onto the chra itself?

[ratcityrex]

Are you talking about locking the piston seal ring inside of the compressor backing plate or seating the thrust bearing onto the chra itself?

Every turbo I have rebuilt always needed a small amount of force to seat the thrust bearing

your over thinking it. Slam that whore together and lets see some rippers!!

[NoPistons!]

You're absolutely right.  I'm chasing a few other issues that take a bit of priority but will get on it as soon as i can.   Even if the thing is off balance the thrust bearing upgrade alone MAY score me a few extra thousand miles. 

[NoPistons!]

Well, the thrust washer from the new kit wont allow the following:

-interface with the step on the turbine shaft

-rotation when whole stack is torqued down

-oil from the top hole to pressurize the thrust bearing ports because it wont sit flush due to the thrust washer being too wide


I said fuck it.  Trying to get up on a holset now.  Fuck ching chong meow.


If rebuilding, do it out of the box with a 270* bearing and have a shop balance the wheels.  $50-65 for that service.   I still have the turbo.  If i can't sell it i'll get all the parts from gpop shop and have them hook it up.  Would still have me at less than $300 in the whole turbo.