Topic: Engine Oil (Read 14771 times)

Kenny Rogers · « **Reply #30 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:28:20 PM »

Quote from: bizzy911 on March 26, 2009, 05:00:38 PM

i got a new ride will post pics soon, and i've been hard on it, its an '09 ex, and apperantly you shouldn't be hard on your car for the first 1k-2k miles...i was also told to get an early oil change to get rid of fillings true?

If you've been reading 8thcivic.com just assume everyone there is retarded (it's about the same as HT, as far as "tech" goes). So many people on that site haven't a fucking clue what they're talking about. Yes, you should change your oil fairly early to get rid of metal filings. No, you shouldn't be easy on it. Wait until it's up to operating temp (and oil is warmed up), and go test it out. If I'm not mistaken, the manual doesn't even address a "break in" period.

jagojon3 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:43:35 PM »

I run durablend, best bang for the buck

ratcityrex · « **Reply #32 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:45:03 PM »

My break in is about the same as bdvt. I fire it up let it almost come up to op. temp and go out and drive it gingerly. Come back home drain/swap filters. fill up with cheep stuff, then go out and beat it pretty good. Lots of 7500 rpm revs, and let it decel all the way down to about 3000, and do it over and over. After about 20 min of driving like that, come back swap oil and filters to the one of your choise(royal purp for me).

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #33 on:** March 26, 2009, 05:46:06 PM »

Quote from: danwjmu on March 26, 2009, 05:42:11 PM

yeah I hear that zink shit is good shit

Fuck you... I went with the K..

K series Zinc.

widebody93 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 26, 2009, 06:42:37 PM »

Royal purple and I went through same shit with H22 rocker pads and Bigdaddyvtec has done also. Look in my build thread. You will see that my block and head is CLEAN and everything that has contact is polished looking.

I my break in s are with pensoil for 200 hard miles with head stud re torque after 50 miles. Oil change and pensoil again for another 150 hard miles then Royal Purple.

But I Think Bigdaddy runs his motor on the loose side of the spec sheet. Correct me if Im wrong

Conceptz-X · « **Reply #35 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:01:59 PM »

Best oil I know of http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/ Alisyn, expensive yes, but after seeing it work in Offshore Race Boats, I am a strong advocate. Velocity's Factory 1 Boat 27 foot single 500HP engine picked up .5 MHP just changing the drive oil to Alisyn 0W over racing Royal Purple. not to mention it held up just the same as the heavier oil under the loading and unloading from the boat and prop leaving the water.

BTW, the boat runs about 87 MPH and gets 7MPG on the water.

Conceptz-X · « **Reply #36 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:04:22 PM »

Quote from: danwjmu on March 26, 2009, 05:42:11 PM

yeah I hear that zink shit is good shit

I lost about $3000 cuz of that EPA bullshit 2 fucking engines before I found out what was causing it.

fysh · « **Reply #37 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:06:23 PM »

valvoline durablend, been using it exclusively since I read that tech article (the one BDVT posted) back on oHMT a couple years back.

98vtec · « **Reply #38 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:33:03 PM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on March 26, 2009, 04:19:50 PM

Royal purple only. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

I too read ALOT (including on bobistheoilguy.com). Learned lotys about the zink and Phosphorus additives, and the diminishing quantaties used in US manufactured oils due to EPA regulations. Zincdithiophosphate is the additive that really bonds (impregnates) itself into metal...

I use Royal purple ONLY. It saved my valvetrain after it had consumed itself....

Lookie:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

98VTEC:
think of your rockers in this test or whatever wore out in your head. royal purple did stupid good. Mine doid the same thing with Mobile one. Fuck that shit. Look at the difference in the scar damage compared to the rest

nice link!

I had always run Mobil1 and i switched to amsoil about 500-600 miles before i noticed it and then that happened. I havent ran mobil1 or amsoil since then. I have been using Torco SR1 5w30 with ZDDP (ZEP) additive. And i used Torco break in oil when i got my motor up and running.

I've still got my oil sample here and am trying to keep an eye on contaminants to figure out if its working like i want it.

AbaZ · « **Reply #39 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:35:07 PM »

Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol

random-strike · « **Reply #40 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:37:56 PM »

supertech is too fancy, accell oil is the best

Conceptz-X · « **Reply #41 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:39:13 PM »

Quote from: AbaZ on March 26, 2009, 07:35:07 PM

Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol

Oil can help get a few more HP. For the average user, good name brand oil works fine.

Comp Cams makes a ZDDP additive available from jegs, summit, etc.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #42 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:07:28 AM »

Quote from: AbaZ on March 26, 2009, 07:35:07 PM

Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol

In my experience... The grapeape special>?Mobile 1 ALL DAY LONG... I dont like it, but it is what it is. Not one to believe in magic, but my rockers looked exactly like the ones above... I changed oil after reading about the additive packages, and it (the purpleherp) works... II keep a pretty good eye on my cams and followers now.... 12K miles, no wear.

I went round and round with supertech (Im running their springs and retainers... Got specs, checked specs, and was sad that they were right where they should have been. Thaought that it was an interference thing too.. I was wrong. Found that article, Tried Royal purple... And yes. Ill jock it. My VTEC rockers looked as bad as above inside of 1200 miles. (and valvelash was SPOT ON).

My seconday lobes looked alot worse than his to boot...

CLiffs:

YES

highroller54 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:44:51 AM »

I run 15 quarts of amsoil 15w40 in my superduty

88dx · « **Reply #44 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:46:16 AM »

Quote from: highroller54 on March 27, 2009, 12:44:51 AM

I run 15 quarts of amsoil 15w40 in my superduty

do you ever change it or just the filter?

highroller54 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:47:29 AM »

I change it and filter every 3000-4000 km's (once a year)

highroller54 · « **Reply #46 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:48:10 AM »

unless the engine comes apart like last year

88dx · « **Reply #47 on:** March 27, 2009, 01:01:10 AM »

Quote from: highroller54 on March 27, 2009, 12:48:10 AM

unless the engine comes apart like last year

Its a Ford so it probably will be apart this year too :somb:

highroller54 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 27, 2009, 01:14:59 AM »

Quote from: 88dx on March 27, 2009, 01:01:10 AM

Quote from: highroller54 on March 27, 2009, 12:48:10 AM
unless the engine comes apart like last year
Its a Ford so it probably will be apart this year too :somb:

more then likely, Good thing I dont drive it year around

bigwig · « **Reply #49 on:** March 27, 2009, 02:29:47 AM »

Quote from: AbaZ on March 26, 2009, 07:35:07 PM

Do you guys really think that you need some magic oil that is the color of gatorade grape will save your engine if you are pushing 500whp? lol

Jeff speaks the truth. Sub 1500 miles you aren't even seeing the benefits of running synthetic vs conventional oil. There was a thread on HT not so long ago that wasn't completely worthless. I forget the author, but essentially they rain 1000 miles of hard driving/road coarse on conventional and synthetic. Sent both out to be tested. Both ended up being very similar. An extra $20 is cheap insurance, but if your valve train is eating itself, I doubt it's because you are using Royal Purple vs Mobil 1.

SDRAWKCAB · « **Reply #50 on:** March 27, 2009, 02:46:42 AM »

ROTELLA

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #51 on:** March 27, 2009, 03:39:09 AM »

Quote from: bigwig on March 27, 2009, 02:29:47 AM

Sub 1500 miles you aren't even seeing the benefits of running synthetic vs conventional oil. There was a thread on HT not so long ago that wasn't completely worthless. I forget the author, but essentially they rain 1000 miles of hard driving/road coarse on conventional and synthetic. Sent both out to be tested. Both ended up being very similar. An extra $20 is cheap insurance, but if your valve train is eating itself, I doubt it's because you are using Royal Purple vs Mobil 1.

Would you care to put a months salary on that son?

I usually dont talk out of my ass about technically oriented shit if I dont know what the fuck Im talking about... Evidently you chose to in this instance. Im not the only one whom has had the experience too if you search which, you probably wont... I however had a vested interest. I chose to as the next solution was a 2000 dollar Crane/ferea roller setup I REALLY didnt want to buy.

Im talking from experience... With both... In a constant environment... Lash didnt change, nothing notable changed... Ive steered others in the same direction with the same problems... That had gone through it with a NUMBER of the SAME cams, and followers. Worked for them too. Ya, we must be doing something wrong... That test was probably fixed too. It was an independant test as well, not a RP test.... That test did nothing more for me than to Back up what I found... Looks like my research payed off.... And , well; it looks like perhaps you should think before you type. Or at least before you regurgitate some totally generic bullshit off of an uncited HT thread

You need to read about what youre talking about as the two ARE NOWHERE NEAR THE SAME in regards to their additives,or levels of their additives.

In short. Shut the fuck up when theres grown folks talking

KTHKBAI bignig

Corey · « **Reply #52 on:** March 27, 2009, 04:54:07 AM »

i use 10w30 royal purple in anything i give a fuck about, sure its $8/qt but its worth the insurance. my mustang takes 7 qts

royal purple is also good for finding leaks in a motor. if you have oil coming from somewhere but cant figure it out, run royal purple and it will start leaking 10x worse. i dont know why it does it, but it does.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #53 on:** March 27, 2009, 05:02:26 AM »

Ive heard that, and havent seen it... Not even a hint of any leaking... Sluts tight son!!!

BangBusMaster · « **Reply #54 on:** March 27, 2009, 06:06:27 AM »

Spikers engine was the same exact setup w/ the old oil and the Royal Purp. His cams had a buffet on the rockers, switched to the Purp and its legit.

widebody93 · « **Reply #55 on:** March 27, 2009, 07:22:18 AM »

DO you swallow

YOu know you do

HOW MUCH FOR A H22A session with BLUNDELL

You believe on competion? I bet he makes more!

Twins in tanks and upgraded wiring......ALSO GOT A TRICK" not yor momma" up my sleeve

HAHAHAHA
SPike not to you, you my homie/sister of the step side

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #56 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:33:00 PM »

Quote from: widebody93 on March 27, 2009, 07:22:18 AM

DO you swallow

YOu know you do

HOW MUCH FOR A H22A session with BLUNDELL

You believe on competion? I bet he makes more!

Twins in tanks and upgraded wiring......ALSO GOT A TRICK" not yor momma" up my sleeve

HAHAHAHA
SPike not to you, you my homie/sister of the step side

Jesus fucking christ. SHut up. And no, he wont. You need to get past 477 let alone 630 dude. Seriously

You can have as many tricks up your sleeve ass yuo have in your ass, If I were you Id worry more about the car surviving the dyno than making power at thios point son...

BTW mine runs.

E-b0la · « **Reply #57 on:** March 27, 2009, 12:43:13 PM »

I run whatever is on sale in my truck. like castrol or pennzoil.

ironcrx · « **Reply #58 on:** March 27, 2009, 01:10:46 PM »

I use Rotella T diesel oil in my z6

Once I get my turbo setup working ill switch over to Castrol 0W-30 European Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #59 on:** March 27, 2009, 01:41:16 PM »

Yup. The euro stuff is not the same as the US manufactured stuff (due for one to the USA EPA standards I briefly outlined earlier)...

You get a cookie. For NOT being dumb... (No sarchasm at all... SRSLY)

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Author Topic: Engine Oil (Read 14771 times)

bigwig