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[Jorsher]

I am definitely a n00b at this shit and have tried Googling this stuff with little luck.  Unfortunately, I don't know anyone personally that is knowledgeable of this shit either so I come to you guys...  Will be updating as I come across stuff.

Q - I have an AEM B-series fuel rail I got for cheap off someone on HMT.  According to the AEM website, the stock injectors will work, and according to my searching, B/D series injectors are basically interchangeable.  So, theoretically, I should be able to use my A6 injectors in the B-series and AEM fuel rail, correct?  The issue is that they are "loose" when in the fuel rail.  I compared the fuel injector port bores on the stock D-series to the ones on the AEM B-series, and the AEM ones are slightly larger.  I'm assuming the AEM fuel rail injector ports have been bored, possibly for larger injectors?  If that sounds plausible, is there anywhere I can buy seals that will allow me to use my D-series injectors, or does someone have a factory B-series fuel rail.  I'd be willing to trade my AEM one for the cost of shipping it + shipping the factory one...

Q - There's a sensor on the back left of the B18A1 block which I believe is the fan switch?  It basically has two posts that the wires connect to, with a boot around it.  I didn't pay attention to which wire went to which post when I pulled the harness off the D-series.  Does it matter?  If so, anyone know off-hand which wire goes where or can point me to where I can find out?
A - Doesn't matter, thanks snm95ls

[snm95ls]

I can't think of any reason why the holes would not be either 11 mm or 14 mm.

Stock Denso(older) are 11 mm inlets, so a 14 mm hole ought to be really loose.

[Jorsher]

I can't think of any reason why the holes would not be either 11 mm or 14 mm.

Stock Denso(older) are 11 mm inlets, so a 14 mm hole ought to be really loose.

Thanks, will check that, not sure if it was that big of a difference, at least didn't seem like anywhere near as big of a difference as a 10mm and 14mm bolt...

[snm95ls]

To answer your second question, yes it is the fan switch, and no it does not matter which wire goes to each post. 

There is also the green two pin oil temp switch on the back of blocks that came out of 90-93 integras (all B18A1 and some B18B1).  Nothing needs o be connected there as it is only used in those cars to keep the fans running after the key is shut off.

[Jorsher]

To answer your second question, yes it is the fan switch, and no it does not matter which wire goes to each post. 

There is also the green two pin oil temp switch on the back of blocks that came out of 90-93 integras (all B18A1 and some B18B1).  Nothing needs o be connected there as it is only used in those cars to keep the fans running after the key is shut off.

Hmmm...  Yes this is a B18A1.  The only sensors I see on the back are the oil pressure switch and the green two-wire sensor slightly up and left from the oil pressure switch (is also on the d16a6).  Assuming that's the fan switch, however I don't see another two wire sensor (which I guess doesn't matter if it's unnecessary).

Thanks

[snm95ls]

the big ass one that looks just like the one on the A6 is the only one you need to worry about, well other than the oil pressure switch.

 

Just to clarify...

[Jorsher]

Ahaha, I'm glad you posted that picture.  Apparently the shop that did the engine work put the sensors back on in the wrong location.

Had the fan switch sensor where the oil temp sensor is.

That clears up why I had the hole where the fan switch should be, an extra sensor, and I think I had an extra plug on the harness as well...

Thanks

[snm95ls]

Lol.  That would not have worked for shit.  Fan switch in the oil drains FTL.

[chris]

also knock sensors are only found on oem dohc vtec blocks so dont freak out since your b18a1 doesnt have one its not suppose too.

[snm95ls]

also knock sensors are only found on oem dohc vtec blocks so dont freak out since your b18a1 doesnt have one its not suppose too.

Troof.

Also, that is not the stock location for a knock sensor.

[Jorsher]

i don't know if the b and d injectors are the same or not. i don't think they are. however they will both fit in the rail.
if they feel loose it might mean you need new orings on them

Nah, they fit snug in the D-series rail (and never leaked when I drove it), and the B-series injector ports are visibly larger.  Just trying to find out if all AEM fuel rails are like this and there is a seal I can get, or if someone possibly bored out the ports (I bought it used).

[snm95ls]

i don't know if the b and d injectors are the same or not. i don't think they are. however they will both fit in the rail.
if they feel loose it might mean you need new orings on them

Eh, with the exception of a few Ds and the impedance differences, hey are pretty much interchangeable.  I used the stock A6 injectors on my B17A swap.

There are exceptions, but most B and D series injectors have a flow rate of 240 cc/min.

Jorsher, I would bet that the AEM rail has been bored out for some odd reason if they are a very loose fit.  Is the anodizing still visible in the injector bores of the AEM fuel rail?

[Joseph Davis]

the big ass one that looks just like the one on the A6 is the only one you need to worry about, well other than the oil pressure switch.

 

Just to clarify...

That's not an oil temperature switch, that is another oil pressure switch.  It was used in 90-91 vehicles, compared vs PS pressure switch, so the ECU knew whether or not to idle up due to PS load.




IDIOTS!!!

[snm95ls]

Really?  Explain to me how you get oil pressure from oil the drain back galley.



I have the same fucking thing on the back of my B17A1 which coincidentally did not come from a 90-91 vehicle.  It's purpose is as I stated earlier.

Sir, I think in this case you are the fucking idiot.

[Ravage70]

woboy
I smell blood...

[ratcityrex]

(Im getting my popcorn for this showdown)  :yes:

[snm95ls]

There you go fellas.

It is okay, the all mighty Grand Wizard is never wrong.   The FSMs, and my obviously lacking experience are no match for JD.



<Awaits verbal assault>

[PhilStubbs]

i have seen aftermarket fuel rails use larger o-rings than what comes stock. lots of cars use them, just ask the parts guy to see a few different ones.

why waste the money on a fuel rail when stock is good for pretty much anything?

[Jorsher]

i have seen aftermarket fuel rails use larger o-rings than what comes stock. lots of cars use them, just ask the parts guy to see a few different ones.

why waste the money on a fuel rail when stock is good for pretty much anything?

I didn't waste money, I bought it from someone that also sold me a brand new competition clutch, intake mani, wiseco pistons for a damn good deal, and threw the fuel rail in for next to nothing.  I needed a fuel rail, it was cheap, I grabbed it.

Uploading a picture, this thread reminded me...

[PhilStubbs]

well, if you didnt have a rail that fit, and didnt spend much i can understand it. i just cant understand people that buy them cause they think they need the added flow.

[Jorsher]

well, if you didnt have a rail that fit, and didnt spend much i can understand it. i just cant understand people that buy them cause they think they need the added flow.

Yeah, I'm using stock injectors and a stock fuel pump on an NA engine, not expecting any benefit, was just available and cheap.

Here it is, next to a d-series rail:


Might be hard to tell from that picture and the angle, but the d-series port is noticeably smaller.  Whoever suggested to check if the anodizing was gone, good point, and yes it's gone.

Bored, eh?  So who has a b-series rail, or are there seals I can use...

[snm95ls]

Yeah that fucker is not 11 mm anymore.

 

[ratcityrex]

What intake do you have? Obd-0 or 1?

[Jorsher]

What intake do you have? Obd-0 or 1?

Aftermarket, seems OBD1, why?

[ratcityrex]

Because I tink I might have a obd-0 rail kicking around in my garage.

[Jorsher]

Because I tink I might have a obd-0 rail kicking around in my garage.

Ah, what can I check?

it's been bored out, mine had anodizing inside the holes

and i didn't pay much for mine either. i think it was $30 or something like that. it was worth the extra $20 for the bling factor

Yeah, I found out who I bought it from, he said he bought it used and never used it.

[ratcityrex]

Dose your fuel rail feed come in the end, or on top of the fuel rail? If your running an aftermarket one, I will bet its a end feed, and not a top feed like the obd-0 that I have.

[PhilStubbs]

Bored, eh?  So who has a b-series rail, or are there seals I can use...

i have seen aftermarket fuel rails use larger o-rings than what comes stock. lots of cars use them, just ask the parts guy to see a few different ones.

i think BMW's use a pretty big o-ring

[Jorsher]

I am definitely a n00b at this shit and have tried Googling this stuff with little luck.  Unfortunately, I don't know anyone personally that is knowledgeable of this shit either so I come to you guys...  Will be updating as I come across stuff.

Q - I have an AEM B-series fuel rail I got for cheap off someone on HMT.  According to the AEM website, the stock injectors will work, and according to my searching, B/D series injectors are basically interchangeable.  So, theoretically, I should be able to use my A6 injectors in the B-series and AEM fuel rail, correct?  The issue is that they are "loose" when in the fuel rail.  I compared the fuel injector port bores on the stock D-series to the ones on the AEM B-series, and the AEM ones are slightly larger.  I'm assuming the AEM fuel rail injector ports have been bored, possibly for larger injectors?  If that sounds plausible, is there anywhere I can buy seals that will allow me to use my D-series injectors, or does someone have a factory B-series fuel rail.  I'd be willing to trade my AEM one for the cost of shipping it + shipping the factory one...
A - Definitely bored.

Q - There's a sensor on the back left of the B18A1 block which I believe is the fan switch?  It basically has two posts that the wires connect to, with a boot around it.  I didn't pay attention to which wire went to which post when I pulled the harness off the D-series.  Does it matter?  If so, anyone know off-hand which wire goes where or can point me to where I can find out?
A - Doesn't matter, thanks snm95ls

Q - How the FUCK are you supposed to get to the rear mount's rear bolt?  Generally, I've been pleased at Honda's foresight and bolt placement, because they're all usually relatively easy to get to.  Why the fuck they couldnt have put a couple bolts on the side of the mount in place of having one at the back, I don't understand.  I'm assuming I'll have to remove the subframe, but I'm curious how others have got to it...

[snm95ls]

 Jew