Topic: Gt3076rwg (Read 12002 times)

lilpooh21186 · « **on:** February 17, 2010, 01:11:10 AM »

Picked this turbo up dirt cheep how important is it to utilize the wet housing feature and run coolent through the chra.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:28:20 AM »

Kinda.... don't be stupid it's there for a reason.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:34:40 AM »

Fuck that shit... On a diesel motor constantly seeing boost, ok... Brief spurts to 9k in a honda??? No nedd... COuntless people (including mydelf) have no issue not running the water

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:37:09 AM »

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on February 17, 2010, 01:34:40 AM

Fuck that shit... On a diesel motor constantly seeing boost, ok... Brief spurts to 9k in a honda??? No nedd... COuntless people (including mydelf) have no issue not running the water

why would you not run it, it makes no sense. If there is a water cooled section it was designed to be run with it for cooling. Pretty sure garrett knows better then some fat guy in a accord.

Towdogg · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:41:37 AM »

I have gotten turbos out the junkyard and never hooked up the coolant lines and used them with no problems....

These turbo's are still making boost after many miles.....

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:46:38 AM »

Quote from: turbob16hatch on February 17, 2010, 01:37:09 AM

Quote from: bigdaddyvtec on February 17, 2010, 01:34:40 AM
Fuck that shit... On a diesel motor constantly seeing boost, ok... Brief spurts to 9k in a honda??? No nedd... COuntless people (including mydelf) have no issue not running the water

why would you not run it, it makes no sense. If there is a water cooled section it was designed to be run with it for cooling. Pretty sure garrett knows better then some fat guy in a accord.

Think about the conditions the turbos are designed for (mostly industrial seeing the meat of theyre efficiency range and beyond sometimes constantly)... Then think about the 5-30 second romps they see in a drag/ street car. Also, the effects on (Mostly) maxed cooling systems to begin with... That center sectioon has to radiate its heat somewhere right?

Dont need them.

Mines fine and i KNOW I beat my car within the top 5 percentile on this board

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:51:10 AM »

Eh, i just think it's funny to not use it when it takes all of 10 min and $30 in fittings to hook up. Also you have issues if your worried hooking up coolant lines would make your car overheat.

nock · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:07:49 AM »

i read somewhere about how its supposed to help stop oil choking, i guess oems do it because they dont have turbo timers. i never hooked one up either, but im going to on the holset because im still using the actuator. i guess the compressor would run cooler to, never getting much hotter then the engine it self.

highroller54 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:12:57 AM »

is it BB?

88dx · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:16:44 AM »

I dont see why you wouldnt do it. It takes 2 mins to hook up the lines.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:24:36 AM »

HiProfile · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2010, 07:13:59 AM »

The difference between a stock diesel and a modified gasoline car is a few hundred degrees in EGT's, guess which is higher.

The main problem is that no turbo timer/cool down period WILL boil oil in your chra. Maybe not in a few seconds, but over time. It will build up that goldish residue, eventually it will be that nasty black shit you find in a 200k d16 head. Go to a hardware store, grab a 360* caster wheel with the exposed ball bearings on it, sprinkle sand in it, then spin it. That's what your turbo's future feels like. If you can't imagine the sand as burnt oil chunks, hang yourself.

If you can, I'd suggest using the lines. Even hot, low flow coolant will do, such as the fitv head outlet and the water pipe inlet (for the iacv). You can beat it senseless, drive to a nearby parking spot and turn it off w/o ever an issue. The last guy I know who did that to an oil-cooled Garrett on a daily basis had a smoking turbo after 500 miles, which then led to a melting piston due to oil in the cylinder.

lilpooh21186 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2010, 03:08:02 PM »

Normally I don't use them but his being a bb turbo I wasn't 100% about it's long term effect

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2010, 03:11:03 PM »

Quote from: HiProfile on February 17, 2010, 07:13:59 AM

The difference between a stock diesel and a modified gasoline car is a few hundred degrees in EGT's, guess which is higher.

The main problem is that no turbo timer/cool down period WILL boil oil in your chra. Maybe not in a few seconds, but over time. It will build up that goldish residue, eventually it will be that nasty black shit you find in a 200k d16 head. Go to a hardware store, grab a 360* caster wheel with the exposed ball bearings on it, sprinkle sand in it, then spin it. That's what your turbo's future feels like. If you can't imagine the sand as burnt oil chunks, hang yourself.

If you can, I'd suggest using the lines. Even hot, low flow coolant will do, such as the fitv head outlet and the water pipe inlet (for the iacv). You can beat it senseless, drive to a nearby parking spot and turn it off w/o ever an issue. The last guy I know who did that to an oil-cooled Garrett on a daily basis had a smoking turbo after 500 miles, which then led to a melting piston due to oil in the cylinder.

PFFFFT....

So I guess all of us who havent had ANY issue whatsoever at ALL are doing it wrong... Whatever... LOL...

Ill pass

HiProfile · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:40:20 PM »

Well lemme give you a few more money-saving tips:

*Don't change your oil before 15k miles. I know 2 people who have done it. 30k is a stretch if you recall the BMW guy.

*Don't worry about cords showing on your tires. Just carry a spare and change it when chunks start to rip out 200 miles from home like my friend.

*Coolant? Who needs fucking coolant? Run that shit dry! Just make sure to put decent coolant in at first, I've seen Honda h2o pumps run to round nubs after 70k miles w/o a coolant flush.

*Tuning, fuck that too. Look at Cooljnateman, he'd have been fine w/o it too except he tried too many mad 4th g3ar pulls.

*Gasoline. Because 93 octane is just Buk relabeling 87 to help fund his terrorist activities.

*Brakes - I've seen cars that had worn straight to the steel backing. It still stops as long as you have enough road.

Yes, there have been documented cases were people got away w/o adhering to the manufactuers' recommendations and been fine. Sorta. You have more money in just your valve cover paint I bet, stop being such a Jew.

bigdaddyvtec · « **Reply #15 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:46:59 PM »

Quote from: HiProfile on February 17, 2010, 04:40:20 PM

Well lemme give you a few more money-saving tips:

*Don't change your oil before 15k miles. I know 2 people who have done it. 30k is a stretch if you recall the BMW guy.

*Don't worry about cords showing on your tires. Just carry a spare and change it when chunks start to rip out 200 miles from home like my friend.

*Coolant? Who needs fucking coolant? Run that shit dry! Just make sure to put decent coolant in at first, I've seen Honda h2o pumps run to round nubs after 70k miles w/o a coolant flush.

*Tuning, fuck that too. Look at Cooljnateman, he'd have been fine w/o it too except he tried too many mad 4th g3ar pulls.

*Gasoline. Because 93 octane is just Buk relabeling 87 to help fund his terrorist activities.

*Brakes - I've seen cars that had worn straight to the steel backing. It still stops as long as you have enough road.

Yes, there have been documented cases were people got away w/o adhering to the manufactuers' recommendations and been fine. Sorta. You have more money in just your valve cover paint I bet, stop being such a Jew.

Oil? RP, Changed every 1500

Tires? Dont last long enough to worry about cords showing.

Coolant? Dont run that either... if by that you mean antifreeze... Whats the point of making the cooling system even more inefficient)

Tuning? Leed on speed dial son.

Gasoline? TRICK SLUT 114

Brakes? I have big ones

Your point??? Hardly a even comparable one in the lot nignog. Its not about saving money... As far as longetivity (which is wwhat i believe you MEANT) I still dont and havent seen ANYONE have a BB CRHA fail from not having the water lines on... Not 1.

lilpooh21186 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 17, 2010, 06:23:29 PM »

Well fittingss are on the turbo so I'll use them

patsmx5 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 17, 2010, 06:40:24 PM »

The water cooling is there to cool the center section when the car is shutoff, to prevent coking. OEM design it such that when the car is shutoff, water will still flow a little and cool the center section down. Also helps extend life of the turbo when in heavy use, as mentioned. OEMs do it cause if a turbo dies under warranty, it could be very expensive to replace, especially if it takes out the engine with it.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #18 on:** February 17, 2010, 08:11:40 PM »

i usually hook them up cause it isnt that hard and anything to help extend the life of a turbo is a good idea to me.

although, i know of tons of people not running them and it seems that if you either drive slow for the last couple miles before you shut the car off or use a turbo timer, there are no issues

NoPistons! · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2010, 05:28:28 AM »

This thread

I mean, there's so little oil pressure/film required for a bb chra that you should just be able to just spit in an oil port, cap the shit off and be good to go.

lilpooh21186 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:53:16 PM »

^^^ Ban Dont whore my thread with Unknowlagabilities

jarebear667 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 19, 2010, 05:05:05 PM »

fucking gross dont put that shit in here a lot of us are at work.

i dont use them ever.
i have once, didnt like the way it cluttered shit up AND i've had one melt and shit loosing all cooler and over heating the engine FUCK THAT. make sure you run hardline away from all hot parts.

fearsomedan · « **Reply #22 on:** February 19, 2010, 07:06:30 PM »

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Author Topic: Gt3076rwg (Read 12002 times)