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[Joseph Davis]

also you should use copper spray on the head gasket. 

No.

[92CXyD]

also you should use copper spray on the head gasket. 

No.

No, if it was a one piece old style hg (not MLS) and it was for an Al head and Cast iron block sure why not.

Doug I believe you may be suffering a little from the Y49 curse, but push on you will get this done.

Maybe the force is with you and you overcome the course. ;D

[Joseph Davis]

also you should use copper spray on the head gasket. 

No.

No, if it was a one piece old style hg (not MLS) and it was for an Al head and Cast iron block sure why not.

Not only that, but both head and deck surfaces are fresh.

[Joseph Davis]

Also... why the fuck did you name the Dark Lord??

[92CXyD]

Also... why the fuck did you name the Dark Lord??

Sorry I posted it without thinking.

Please Doug don't die from this car.



Drive that CRX carefully and avoid any rivers that have food names like pudding. ;D

Avoid semi-trucks, large intersections where you could encounter a lot people.

Avoid large trees, large groups of crows, any squirrels, or anything that could be hurt by your car. ;D

[Joseph Davis]

You know Doug doesn't own the cursemobile in question?  Although, it probably will kill him.

[Jorsher]

Yah, the coolant/oil passages were "linked" in the head.  It looked like the pressure opened the thin wall up as there was a thin shard of metal bent into the oil passage, probably why I didn't see it earlier.

Hey, I DID say that if anything goes wrong, I'd expect it to be there, and look who was right   Unfortunately, I wish I was wrong.  I cleaned it up with some contaminant remover meant for body work, but I assume it's just as well ass acetone.

If this doesn't work I'll just throw on an LS head, fuck it.

Will have a new block in a couple weeks.  Then will remove a piston from the old block on a Wednesday, take block/piston to shop Thursday, get it back Friday, and swap it over the weekend.  It should hold for now...

And as JD said, this is my wretched vehicle.

Other than possibly burning coolant/oil, will I have any risk of fucking up pistons if the sleeve really decides to crack open or does it not flex THAT bad?  I'm assuming since the piston will be moving away from the crack after combustion and the peak PSI that the cylinder wall flex won't really fuck with it.

[ryan89crx]

Other than possibly burning coolant/oil, will I have any risk of fucking up pistons if the sleeve really decides to crack open or does it not flex THAT bad?  I'm assuming since the piston will be moving away from the crack after combustion and the peak PSI that the cylinder wall flex won't really fuck with it.

My pistons are in motor #3....first 2 split a sleeve and the slugs looked perfect 

1st was due to my shitty tuning and not changing the injectors to 550cc instead of 240cc

2nd was boost fluctuation and taking it too close to the map sensor limit and spiking to 26psi with a Moto 2.5bar. Again my fault for not fixing the problem and raping it anyways.

Oh well, sohc blocks are cheap haha

#1


#2

[Doug]

You know Doug doesn't own the cursemobile in question?  Although, it probably will kill him.

I told him he should paint it satin black 

[Jorsher]

Haha Ryan, nice.

I figured they'd be fine but always like to check instead of taking expensive risks...

Will run this block til it dies or I have a new one ready.

[trevor72]

Fuck man, sorry to hear about your luck, but I'm glad you found it.  Don't you know any niggers with tig welders?  how big is the gap you have to cover with epoxy?  Is it easily accessible? sorry for the lack of B-knowledge.  I have seen epoxy cover pin holes, but not much more in a coolant passage blowout.  Can you post a pic?

I'd have no problem running that block as is.  Just keep it in the back of your mind every time you go for the boost pedal

[Joseph Davis]

You know Doug doesn't own the cursemobile in question?  Although, it probably will kill him.

I told him he should paint it satin black 

Y-49 is Y-49 for life. 

[chris]

Go score a beater for part runs, driving to work etc. You will thank me later. The curse of the yellow crx will haunt you.

[Jorsher]

Haha, I'd like to skip the beater and go for a S2K but that may take a while with my current credit

Trevor - I don't have any boost yet so this block will hopefully hold until I can get a fresh one in

The coolant/oil passage just had a small but noticeable hole.  The cold-weld crap should hold judging from how thin the original aluminum wall was.  It's fullllllll of epoxy now so *shouldn't* leak, but I guess we'll find out either tomorrow or Friday.  I don't remember "hitting vtak" when I drove it those few minutes and power seemed to fall off before I got to 7000ish RPM, possibly because it didn't have the oil pressure it needed.

[Doug]

That cops bling bling civic is begging to be your beater

[Jorsher]

That cops bling bling civic is begging to be your beater

Funny you mention that.

Today I went over to Tim's to do a little work, and the guy came walking up to the driveway.  Asked if I had a couple tools they could use because someone was buying his car and trying to fix it.

They guy buying it knew what he was doing, apparently the timing belt had snapped.  Helped him switch it out and about 1-2 hours later the car was running.  Dude gave me $20.

The cop is going to call his cousin that owns an exhaust shop in Hazel Green, the same dude that welded the washer to my pedal assembly for hydro conversion, so that I can take my car there to have the cat removed and replaced with the test pipe.

[Doug]

That cops bling bling civic is begging to be your beater

Funny you mention that.

Today I went over to Tim's to do a little work, and the guy came walking up to the driveway.  Asked if I had a couple tools they could use because someone was buying his car and trying to fix it.

They guy buying it knew what he was doing, apparently the timing belt had snapped.  Helped him switch it out and about 1-2 hours later the car was running.  Dude gave me $20.

The cop is going to call his cousin that owns an exhaust shop in Hazel Green, the same dude that welded the washer to my pedal assembly for hydro conversion, so that I can take my car there to have the cat removed and replaced with the test pipe.

Damn, see we should have bought it and flipped it. Oh well, could have turned out to be trashed. Make sure you send your cat the Chris when you take it off

[Jorsher]

Lame.

Put it back together today.

Ebay radiator was leaking so put the stock one back on and used wire to hold the slim fan on because I couldn't find some zip ties.  Couldn't find the plug for the radiator so tried using a bolt, the drain valve was still dripping so I'll need to check an auto store tomorrow or grab one out the junkyard.

Started it, oil didn't go gushing out the radiator this time, but a couple other things were leaking.  All the injectors were leaking gas from where they go into the fuel rail, so will need to find some new o-rings or something.

Also, oil still pouring out from behind the black somewhere, only when the car is running, and when you shut it off you can hear it coming out under pressure.  Oil felt less oil-ey and more watery than it should....will start/stop it tomorrow and try to see where it's coming out.

piece of shit.

[Joseph Davis]

Did you shim the oil pump or anything?  I've seen that break the oil filter housing seal before.

[Teg2boo]

Seriously, ls vtec is a pain in the ass. You are building a boosted car (I guess?), use a straight b18a/b or a GSR. You will reach you power goal anyway.

Less trouble and more time ripping clutch. Even old tired b18a1 are holding 10psi strong.

[Jorsher]

Did you shim the oil pump or anything?  I've seen that break the oil filter housing seal before.

I didn't shim it but it does have a vtec oil pump.

I'm not sure what seal you're talking about.  I think it may be leaking from the sammich adapter but I'll find out in an hour or so.

I hope to hell it's something stupid like the vtec feed line.

Seriously, ls vtec is a pain in the ass. You are building a boosted car (I guess?), use a straight b18a/b or a GSR. You will reach you power goal anyway.

Less trouble and more time ripping clutch. Even old tired b18a1 are holding 10psi strong.

More of a pain in the ass than a straight ls swap, but, shouldn't be THIS big of a pain in the ass.

Worst case, I'll find a valve cover for this LS head I have laying around and just throw that on.

[Joseph Davis]

The chinky sandwich plate could have Scottsi cooties all over it, preventing it from sealing.

[bigdaddyvtec]

Lame.

Put it back together today.

Ebay radiator was leaking so put the stock one back on and used wire to hold the slim fan on because I couldn't find some zip ties.  Couldn't find the plug for the radiator so tried using a bolt, the drain valve was still dripping so I'll need to check an auto store tomorrow or grab one out the junkyard.

Started it, oil didn't go gushing out the radiator this time, but a couple other things were leaking.  All the injectors were leaking gas from where they go into the fuel rail, so will need to find some new o-rings or something.

Also, oil still pouring out from behind the black somewhere, only when the car is running, and when you shut it off you can hear it coming out under pressure.  Oil felt less oil-ey and more watery than it should....will start/stop it tomorrow and try to see where it's coming out.

piece of shit.

Did you put the HG on "upside down" ? 


SRSLY

[Jorsher]

Found the leak today, was the chinky vtec feed line

Had the hydraulic shop make a new one, no more leaks.

However, I put it all back together the same way I had it the first time, and now it idles rough, if i'm checking the timing with the timing light, cyl 1 will randomly not fire, the rpm fluctuates, and the rpm is low.

Don't get this, everything is the way it was the first time I put it all together, and the first time it idled perfectly at around 1000 rpm, this time it idles at around 500, fluctuates, and if I give it gas and let off, it'll sometimes die or barely save itself.

I don't see any fuel leaks.  New plugs, wires, dizzy, cap, rotor.  Does this with/without the service connector jumped.

ONCE I got an IAT code, but I reset the ECU and it hasn't came back.  WTF?

[Joseph Davis]

Check to make sure you haven't swapped IAT and IACV plug.  Check ECU to make sure it's not damaged.

[Jorsher]

Mechanical timing is correct, however when I try to set the distributor I can turn it all the way forward and it's still not enough.

Going to double check I have the wires in the correct location...

[Doug]

Off by a tooth, who's got $5 to throw down?

[Jorsher]

Just to put the "mechanical timing is off" thing to rest, here are pictures:





Unless I'm completely wrong, that's how it should be, which is why I don't understand retarding the distributor all the way and it still not being enough...

Yes I'm jumping the service connector.  It's more stable than without it jumped but still about an inch forward of the notch on the timing belt cover.  I know that it's properly jumped because the CEL is solid when I start the car.

When using the timing light, the BTDC notch is showing up about half the distance between TDC and the BTDC notch.

[Jorsher]

Even verified the key is in the crank pulley...

Any ideas?

[Jorsher]

Pulled out spark plugs, dripping, a different one is now fouled, looked down the hole and in the cylinders I could see liquid on top of the pistons.

I want to burn this thing.