Topic: Wheel Lock Removal? Failed with the 19mm socket method (Read 14513 times)

bigwig · « **on:** March 31, 2010, 06:34:52 PM »

I'm trying to remove the wheel locks on the new car because the owner lost the key and I hate driving around in a car where I can't take off the tires. I grabbed a junky 3/4" 12 pt socket and a junky 19mm 12pt socket. Hammered it on a bit with a decent sized hammer The socket didn't grab. Then I smacked it the rest of the way with a 5 lbs sledge. Tried again and the socket didn't grab. The same results with both sockets. Now I admit, both sockets were out of junk sets. That's why I used them.

Suggestions?

I'd prefer not to be bothered by going to the dealership or to a shop for this. I'd rather buy a tool. I'm sure it will take 2 weeks to get a replacement key and I'd prefer not to drive the car for 2 weeks without being able to take the tire off if I needed to. I'd also like to salvage the locks if possible.

I'm not cutting off my wheel like that VW idiot.

Ravage70 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2010, 06:37:13 PM »

mig a bolt to it

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #2 on:** March 31, 2010, 06:40:56 PM »

Quote from: Ravage70 on March 31, 2010, 06:37:13 PM

mig a bolt to it

this..

or just really pound a socket on it

ochoa · « **Reply #3 on:** March 31, 2010, 06:43:47 PM »

Quote from: ApexSilver06MR on March 31, 2010, 06:40:56 PM

Quote from: Ravage70 on March 31, 2010, 06:37:13 PM
mig a bolt to it

I had to do this it works, not the easyiest soloution in the world but after spending 2 weeks without luck to find a matching key it did the job

fearsomedan · « **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2010, 06:49:33 PM »

i've also used a hammer and chisel.

bigwig · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2010, 07:09:04 PM »

Quote from: ApexSilver06MR on March 31, 2010, 06:40:56 PM

Quote from: Ravage70 on March 31, 2010, 06:37:13 PM
mig a bolt to it

this..

or just really pound a socket on it

I did this. I really destroyed 2 sockets. No BS about it. I've read 1 group of people saying to use cheap sockets while others suggest using good sockets. I'm tempted to destroy a 12pt Craftsman socket knowing they will replace it, but that will only get 1 lock off most likely....

I'm not quite ready to weld to the locks yet. I'd rather pay $20 and get the key. I have all the paperwork to get a replacement key luckily.

Tomorrow I'll go to Pepboys/Napa and see what they can do for me as far as a socket to take off the locks. Again, ideally, I'd like to save the locks. I just want them off for now.

Jorsher · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2010, 07:21:52 PM »

Grind a couple sides flat and use a box wrench?

I have one of those bolt splitter things, maybe that could get a hold on it.

Towdogg · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2010, 07:25:49 PM »

Go 18mm...

darkelvis · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2010, 07:55:49 PM »

stripped bolt/nut socket...pound on, remove. hammer and chisel. air hammer with a good bit (you need to be good to pull this off without damaging the wheels or stud), or MIG a nut on it. I mig nuts on these all the time at work. it only takes a few seconds.

TunerToys · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2010, 08:15:22 PM »

If you can catch a corner or an edge, an impact chisel will rotate it off.

jeffsciv23 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2010, 08:27:15 PM »

i had the same problem on a car i bought before ad just went to a tire shop and they took them off, they had a bunch of different ones and didnt charge shit

bgdriver · « **Reply #11 on:** March 31, 2010, 08:31:53 PM »

If they stick out enough I've had success with a huge pipe wrench.

SgtB · « **Reply #12 on:** March 31, 2010, 08:34:31 PM »

Harbor freight sells lugnut removers that are 1/2" drive. Cheap too.

bigwig · « **Reply #13 on:** March 31, 2010, 08:54:21 PM »

I don't want to damage the locks if I don't absolutely have to. I'd rather spend $40 on a special socket than spend $10 at a tire shop and $25 to get new locks. I know in 5-6 years I'm going to have this same problem, except next time, I'll have the right tool and I'll be able to fix the problem for free.

So, no special socket available to handle the job? I'll try a few more DIY methods, if not, I'll just get them removed. I wanted to get it done before the weekend because I plan on putting about 200 miles on the car on Sunday alone.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 31, 2010, 09:18:39 PM »

google stripped lug nut removal tool. Any autoparts store sells them, comes with a couple sizes for 15-20 bucks. It's a socket looking thing with reverse tapered threads so it screws onto the ouside of the stripped lugnut while tightening down on it. I've used them several times, always worked for me.

d112crzy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2010, 09:25:00 PM »

do what this guy did
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684546

bigwig · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2010, 09:40:58 PM »

Quote from: bigwig on March 31, 2010, 06:34:52 PM

I'm not cutting off my wheel like that VW idiot.

Pat, that's what I was thinking of getting. From what I understand, the lock still works after using them. The locks just get beat to crap as a result.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2010, 09:48:33 PM »

the ones I used it didn't mess the locks up much. Depends how tight they are I guess, but it just barely scratched the chrome on my trooper's locks. I guess if you want to not damage them, find/buy the right tool and just wait. I doubt there is a miracle tool out there that fits every lock without putting a scratch on it.

keelay · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2010, 11:16:32 PM »

Get some JBweld, press it into the lock, making the JB the pattern that the key would be. Make a die from the JB, and melt some steel into it.

Who knows, maybe the JB will be strong enough once hard, to be the key.

bigwig · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2010, 11:25:48 PM »

Quote from: keelay on March 31, 2010, 11:16:32 PM

Get some JBweld, press it into the lock, making the JB the pattern that the key would be. Make a die from the JB, and melt some steel into it.

Who knows, maybe the JB will be strong enough once hard, to be the key.

I actually read someone taking super glue, putting it in a 19mm socket, letting it get really tacky. Then banging the socket on the lock with a hammer and turning the lock. I'd imagine the same would work with JB Weld except super glue is a bit more flexible.

I'm going to hit up Harbor Freight, Sears, Autozone, and PepBoys tomorrow. I'm sure I'll find something worth buying tomorrow for the job. I actually expect Harbor Freight to have it the most out of any of those stores. Sears is probably next, but it will cost a fortune. Pepboys and Autozone suck so they will probably offer for their hack mechanics to take off the locks with a chisel and end up putting holes into my car.

keelay · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2010, 11:32:23 PM »

No, parts store retards would try a fucking gator grip socket on it, while the other retard struggles to figure out how your replacement wipers go on, and their "buddy" who doesn't actually work there but is hanging out replaces your battery resulting in a catastrophic electrical fire with 132 different points of origin.

Sounds like something I would be inclined to believe after being around some of them.

HiProfile · « **Reply #21 on:** April 01, 2010, 02:54:26 AM »

Quote from: bigwig on March 31, 2010, 08:54:21 PM

I don't want to damage the locks if I don't absolutely have to.

You don't have the right key for them anyways, why would you care? You to be able to get your rims off, then want to save the unusable locks. Go look up "Direct Exhaust Injection" as a cheap power-adder for your car, it follows the same idea...

BTW you'd probably want to use cheaper sockets, so cheap they didn't harden them. Expensive will be brittle when it deforms, cheap will be brittle from cheap steel, super cheap will flex all you need. The stripped bolt socket/remover or locknut remover kit sounds like the best "no damage" solutions.

jay · « **Reply #22 on:** April 01, 2010, 03:03:33 AM »

i used a big ass pair of vice grips to get em off before.. expensive vice grips grabbed real good.. then i used a pipe for leverage.. lol

but yeah if 19 isnt working try 18...

if 18 doesnt work try a metric socket...

t_cel_t · « **Reply #23 on:** April 01, 2010, 03:16:00 AM »

yeah dont use the quality sockets.
those fuckers explode and somehow every time a bunch of the little pieces rocket towards your face with the sharp edges ahead and they fucking hurt.

t_cel_t · « **Reply #24 on:** April 01, 2010, 03:16:29 AM »

Quote from: jay on April 01, 2010, 03:03:33 AM

i used a big ass pair of vice grips to get em off before.. expensive vice grips grabbed real good.. then i used a pipe for leverage.. lol

but yeah if 19 isnt working try 18...

if 18 doesnt work try a metric socket...

18 would be metric

bigwig · « **Reply #25 on:** April 01, 2010, 06:34:29 AM »

Quote from: HiProfile on April 01, 2010, 02:54:26 AM

Quote from: bigwig on March 31, 2010, 08:54:21 PM
I don't want to damage the locks if I don't absolutely have to.

You don't have the right key for them anyways, why would you care? You to be able to get your rims off, then want to save the unusable locks. Go look up "Direct Exhaust Injection" as a cheap power-adder for your car, it follows the same idea...

BTW you'd probably want to use cheaper sockets, so cheap they didn't harden them. Expensive will be brittle when it deforms, cheap will be brittle from cheap steel, super cheap will flex all you need. The stripped bolt socket/remover or locknut remover kit sounds like the best "no damage" solutions.

I have all of the information to buy a new key. The owner kept great records of the car and kept the original packing for the wheel locks. I have the number for the key to be replicated and sold to me. I just have to get a replacement. As I've said before, I wanted to put about 200+ miles on the car on Sunday alone. If something happens, I'd like to be able to take off the lock. The earliest I'd be able to get a replacement I'm sure is next week. The locks have to come off before hand IMO.

Honestly, I'm done wasting my time looking for "the right socket" to destroy to get off the wheels. It's a waste of time. I'm just going to get a set from Harbor Freight that are designed to bite into the lock and remove them with minimal damage. If the product works, I'll post the HF number for future reference.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #26 on:** April 01, 2010, 08:28:48 AM »

this is the dumbest thread to date. just order the socket from the lock company and be done with it.

200+ miles in a day isn't alot so idk why your so worried.

snm95ls · « **Reply #27 on:** April 01, 2010, 08:33:11 AM »

There are two logical options here.

Take a chance, order the key and wait for it to come in.

Get a stripped bolt removal set, remove the locks, and order a new set.

I don't see what the complication is here.

ironcrx · « **Reply #28 on:** April 01, 2010, 09:48:09 AM »

Seriously.

Wreck the bolts or just get the fucking key.

bigwig · « **Reply #29 on:** April 01, 2010, 10:35:32 AM »

There isn't a complication. I'm getting the parts to do the job in an few hours after I finish up at the DMV. I was just looking for alternative solutions. I made the decision. Move on.

Quote from: turbob16hatch on April 01, 2010, 08:28:48 AM

this is the dumbest thread to date. just order the socket from the lock company and be done with it.

200+ miles in a day isn't alot so idk why your so worried.

When 5-6 people post 4-5 different methods and say "Man, I've had this problem too, here is what I did" it's not a dumb thread. A dumb thread is when your customers have to post about how you can't get a job done in 2+ months because you decided to take your time and bullshit around. That's a fucking stupid thread because anyone else would just do the job they were paid to do and it wouldn't become an issue.

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Author Topic: Wheel Lock Removal? Failed with the 19mm socket method (Read 14513 times)

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