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[SDRAWKCAB]

Ok my f23 had
coolant in the oil
smoked white like crazy
and bubbled in the overflow
Which are all strait signs of head gasket failure

Pulled the head today, gasket looks fine
cylinders are not cracked
head looks mint
pistons are shiny fresh which is probably from the burning coolant
Getting the head resurfaced Monday.

Iv never had a stock MLS head gasket go bad before and looked for sings, cant find any but a little black between the cylinder bores,when composites go the blow out chunks. To be honest I don't know what mls look like when they blow. Im thinking the head warped, don't have a dependable strait edge to use and out of good habits I get all my heads resurfaced.

Its also going back together with ARPs Honda HG and IM gaskets.

So Before I slap this thing back together is there anything I should look for that could have caused these symptoms other then head gasket?

[Robb]

Cracked block. 


But its probably a headgasket.  Blown MLS dont necessarily mean "blown" out like a composite.  Thermal expansion yo.

[Foowee]

Try a fluorescent light bulb n some feeler gauges...

[SDRAWKCAB]

Cracked block. 


But its probably a headgasket.  Blown MLS dont necessarily mean "blown" out like a composite.  Thermal expansion yo.

The sleeves look great no signs of cracking. This was eating coolant hard I think it was even coming out the header when I unhooked it.

Try a fluorescent light bulb n some feeler gauges...

Never thought of that and I have one of those, but then I wouldn't ever think of using brakekleen cans as charge piping.
Thank you.

Forgot to mention When  I was removing the stock head bolts all of them they felt like they were torqued to like 150 ft pounds could that be from the head warping?
Anything Else I should look for?

[Jorsher]

Aftermarket studs by any chance?  My ARP ones need to be torqued to 85ft-lbs which is hard to do with the engine out of the car and you trying to hold it.

I don't think MLS gaskets are as easy to see "blown" as others.  Since the engine is apart, I assume you plan to replace the headgasket anyway.  Personally I'd just throw a new one on and see how it goes, and if you got a few bucks go ahead and get the head resurfaced.

I had an oil/coolant mixture going on, but it was due to tapping too far for the ls-vtec plug on the bottom of the head, making the wall between the oil/coolant passage a little too thin, and it not standing up to the pressure and cracking.

Either there's a crack in your engine, or the headgasket is blown... Headgasket is cheapest, so I'd start with that.

[PhilStubbs]

Flouresent bulbs arent really straight. I would just resurface it. I bet the last person that had it, blew the headgasket and just replaced it without resurfacing it. Gotta watch those mexicans

[HiProfile]

I did an h22 with the same issues, header was actually full of coolant. Head was indeed warped, never checked the block. Slapped it together (she was conned into cometic mls), worked fine till the bitch blew another coolant hose and drive a another few miles. It's like the only way to teach a girl how hot an aircooled motor can get is by pressing their forhead into the fins of a Harley evo.

Old bolts can get tight especially if they got hot. The lube in the threads and under it's head deteriorate, which makes it acidic and slightly corrosive. It mildly fuses the metal together partially from corrosion, partially from galling. ARP's usually use moly for thread lube which doesn't break down bad like motor oil.


One thing I'd check is the rings & ringlands. I did a field strip of a b18b that was blowing white clouds after a night of boosting unknown psi on a basemap. All 4 pistons' ringlands were broken like buk's dreams of becoming the next engloid.

[SDRAWKCAB]

I did an h22 with the same issues, header was actually full of coolant. Head was indeed warped, never checked the block. Slapped it together (she was conned into cometic mls), worked fine till the bitch blew another coolant hose and drive a another few miles. It's like the only way to teach a girl how hot an aircooled motor can get is by pressing their forhead into the fins of a Harley evo.

Old bolts can get tight especially if they got hot. The lube in the threads and under it's head deteriorate, which makes it acidic and slightly corrosive. It mildly fuses the metal together partially from corrosion, partially from galling. ARP's usually use moly for thread lube which doesn't break down bad like motor oil.


One thing I'd check is the rings & ringlands. I did a field strip of a b18b that was blowing white clouds after a night of boosting unknown psi on a basemap. All 4 pistons' ringlands were broken like buk's dreams of becoming the next engloid.

Yeah sounds like the head warped because this thing was eating mad coolant.
I cut out the thermostat cause shit wouldn't budge after the fact.   

The rings are probably fine this shit never saw boost or any kind of real power adder, the kid I bought it off had a professional fresh swapped h22. Regular honda tech fagot. After it was in the bed and I had already paid him, he asked me why I wanted a f23 instead of buying a more superior h22. I told him h22s are garbage and he just sold me the best accord motor for 150 bucks that honda makes. He looked like he just got ripped off and was like OH.
LOL at honda tech kids

[SDRAWKCAB]

They had to pull off 15 thousandths to get the shit plane. So it was warped as fuck. Well at lease I got the problem fixed.
Thanks for the help.

[onlyflash944]

They had to pull off 15 thousandths to get the shit plane. So it was warped as fuck. Well at lease I got the problem fixed.
Thanks for the help.

thats a sizable bump in compression, btw

[92CXyD]

And some cam timing adjustments need to be made. 

[Joseph Davis]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

[SDRAWKCAB]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

yeah it probably raised the compression a point.
Iv been running on 93 with the base timing at 18 degrees no ping runs strong.
Im definitely loving the h22 tranny.

[HiProfile]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

Speaking of retarded, who's the one gloating over buying a blown motor for a steal? lol j/k If you picture a cam gear moving downwards, it will start advancing itself. The tensioner will take up the slack on the other side, and since the crank is what sets TDC... Play with some sockets and a rubber band, it works the way we say. :yes:



So did you just get the head checked, or the block too? It's not common for a block to get fucked, but still possible.

[Joseph Davis]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

Keep thinking.

[jay]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

Keep thinking.

did we just find someone dumber than me?

ITS CALLED A BELT TENSIONER RETARD

WHICH MEANS YOU PROLLY NEVER TOOK A HEAD OFF YOUR MOTOR OR SWAPPED HEADS OR DID A HEAD GASKET JOB SHIT THAT EVEN I DID

GO KILL YOURSELF FAGGOT

ok im done

[onlyflash944]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

Keep thinking.

did we just find someone dumber than me?

ITS CALLED A BELT TENSIONER RETARD

WHICH MEANS YOU PROLLY NEVER TOOK A HEAD OFF YOUR MOTOR OR SWAPPED HEADS OR DID A HEAD GASKET JOB SHIT THAT EVEN I DID

GO KILL YOURSELF FAGGOT

ok im done

I know dumber is a real word and all, but more dumb just sounds better.

Also, it's 'probably' and learn to use proper punctuation before we actually vote on the topic.




What I was thinking:
Probably the Funniest Cat Video You'll Ever See

[jay]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

Keep thinking.

did we just find someone dumber than me?

ITS CALLED A BELT TENSIONER RETARD

WHICH MEANS YOU PROLLY NEVER TOOK A HEAD OFF YOUR MOTOR OR SWAPPED HEADS OR DID A HEAD GASKET JOB SHIT THAT EVEN I DID

GO KILL YOURSELF FAGGOT

ok im done

I know dumber is a real word and all, but more dumb just sounds better.

Also, it's 'probably' and learn to use proper punctuation before we actually vote on the topic.




What I was thinking:
Probably the Funniest Cat Video You'll Ever See

dumber is the right way

prolly is something i picked up in Maryland

god damn white trash hippie farmers

[SDRAWKCAB]

Retard the cam two degrees to compensate, then another three for best power. 

I thought removing head/block material retarded cam timing because it produces slack in the belt?

Keep thinking.

did we just find someone dumber than me?

ITS CALLED A BELT TENSIONER RETARD

WHICH MEANS YOU PROLLY NEVER TOOK A HEAD OFF YOUR MOTOR OR SWAPPED HEADS OR DID A HEAD GASKET JOB SHIT THAT EVEN I DID

GO KILL YOURSELF FAGGOT

ok im done

Hey JAy fuck face the tensioner pulls the slack out of the right side of the belt pulling the cam retard (Like you, you stupid fuck) toward the back of the engine bay.

I put the belt in the same location it was before. I didnt advance a tooth on the cam gear when I put the belt back on. so its running like 2 degrees retard (Like you, you stupid fuck)

BTW fuck shit Iv built 2 motors boosted 3 of my own cars not including friends and  probably done more rewires and chipped ecus then your moms given you blow jobs inbred retard.

Now For some one how knows shit why is my logic flawed grand wizard?

[SDRAWKCAB]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree. Advance accordingly to get back to true zero.

[Joseph Davis]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree.

Remove .025".  Do you put the belt on a half tooth advanced or a half tooth retarded?  A D16Z pulley on a D16A, very common mistake, will result in a two degree deflection that further hides/complicates things.  Other pulley/motor - or, god help you, lower cover - mismatches will fuck you further and harder.

[92CXyD]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree. Advance accordingly to get back to true zero.

That's what I had to do with d16z6/y8 build after decking 0.020".

I advance 4.5 deg for the y8 cam and z6 cam difference and 2 degrees retard for the decked block. ;D

[SDRAWKCAB]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree.

Remove .025".  Do you put the belt on a half tooth advanced or a half tooth retarded?  A D16Z pulley on a D16A, very common mistake, will result in a two degree deflection that further hides/complicates things.  Other pulley/motor - or, god help you, lower cover - mismatches will fuck you further and harder.

But is my knowledge correct?
BTW the car is driving great With the exception of not idling whens its cold do to all the JB weld in the IAcv
I did the el gauge cluster swap cause the speedo was bad and that shit looks awesome.also retorqued the headstuds to 105ft pounds

[Joseph Davis]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree.

Remove .025".  Do you put the belt on a half tooth advanced or a half tooth retarded?  A D16Z pulley on a D16A, very common mistake, will result in a two degree deflection that further hides/complicates things.  Other pulley/motor - or, god help you, lower cover - mismatches will fuck you further and harder.

But is my knowledge correct?

No, you are arbitrarily advanced or retarded depending on your build particulars.

[SDRAWKCAB]

Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree.

Remove .025".  Do you put the belt on a half tooth advanced or a half tooth retarded?  A D16Z pulley on a D16A, very common mistake, will result in a two degree deflection that further hides/complicates things.  Other pulley/motor - or, god help you, lower cover - mismatches will fuck you further and harder.

But is my knowledge correct?

No, you are arbitrarily advanced or retarded depending on your build particulars.

Like I said I need to get a adjustable cam gear and advance it 2 degrees to be at stock timming.

[Joseph Davis]

I'd leave it retarded.

[SDRAWKCAB]

I'd leave it retarded.

Well anything I touch ends up being retarded anyways.
So, I guess its alright.

BTW whens the tuning tutorial meet gonna happen I have a reliable car again.
Plus I owe you drinks.

[2slow]

I'd leave it retarded.

Well anything I touch ends up being retarded anyways.
So, I guess its alright.

BTW whens the tuning tutorial meet gonna happen I have a reliable car again.
Plus I owe you drinks.

JD only drinks appletinis with  belvedere vodka

[Joseph Davis]

I'm hypoglycemic, I'll drill any sweet alcohol.  I fucking feel a lot better the next morning if it's not sweet, though, the extra sugar kills me.  I don't get hung over, but I sleep too much and end up bleary.

[MAJORAHOLE]

I don't get hung over, but I sleep too much and end up bleary.

= hangover