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[DasPoop]

Ok So after the first post got deleated here we go on round 2 again I will explain the following
Materials
Guidecoat
Sanding
Intro to masking
Spray booth workings
How to clay bar
how to remove overspray
how to remove a hair from paint(yeah i know wtf right)

Ok materials


DA Sanders I use Ingersoll Rand I own 4 and have never had a problem with them in 5 years. I had said it in the other post you should find a good quality one. The reason I have so many is that there are different throws as far as the action of it. The larger throws are used for bodywork while smaller throws are used for resurfacing ie: painting
One other material used with a DA sander that I highly suggest is an interface pad.

these go between the sander and paper they even out the pressure so you dont burn down high spots aswell as reduce swirls.
With mention to swirls the next topic is paper. Besically you get what you pay for buy cheap paper better buy a lot of it.

On the right is regular "SandPaper" on the left is paper by a brand named Mirka that is far superior. I use both as it depends on application what i need. If its something I dont care about or wetsanding I use reg paper if it is something that needs to be nice i use mirka paper.
With mention to sanding I also have a small multi function tool that works great to get into tight areas aswell as for doing bumper covers
 

Pt2 Guide Coat
When Sanding its nice to know when to stop so that when Guide Coat comes into play basically you spray it on the surface to both show you where you have sanded aswell as low spots.

Asfar as how to apply remember its guide so dont spray it like that just mist it on evenly
kinda like this


ok so as you sand it will sand away this allows you to see low spots here is the best pic i could take to show you how it works and no this isnt me there was shit under the primer


This is what it looks like to sand away the guide coat basically sand it all off evenly and it will make your car straight.


Pt3 Sand for paint.
First remove the emblems and glue with a flat tool an an eraser wheel or a little solvent
 

Materials needed are your fav DA and both 220 and 320 grit paper.
start with the rock chips you want to sand them out and the way to make them smooth is to create what i like to call an asshole. you want to sand over the chip with 220 till it starts to break down then move in an x patten until its creates the asshole working it until the area around it is a gradual slope all around the area like so.

Now that you have assholes all over its time to sand the whole surface with 320 this gives a nice surface for both the primer and paint to bite into. speaking about primer for most jobs a 1k primer will do. this is refered to as a filler primer.
 
ok now depending on how comfortable you are with a DA sand the car staying about 1/2" away from anything you dont want to paint ie headlights mouldings etc. sand off all the orange peel 320 will knock it down quite nicely. get a nice powerdy surface.

work around the car from front to back staying away from everything you dont want to paint. now once you get done with the DA its time go go back by hand with either a scuff pad(garbage) or a peice of 320 wrapped around a scuff pad(awesome)
once you sand all the areas you end up with a car ready for paint.


Now to Mask now this is just a intro talking about Jams and a trunk for you 4dr guys.
Now I know pry no one has a masking machine like such

However newspaper and some masking tape will do just fine.
Start by taping the door about a 1/4" from the edge much like so


then do the inside jam its pretty much the same for both coupe and 4dr guys.

now for the trunk its also pretty much the same pretty much like such


I know this is just the surface of masking but i ran out of time at work today and this is as far as I got. Now onto something more fun.

How our booth works. Ok as far as drying the air that comes in we use a large desicant for main drying purposes
 
then in our booth is our regulator as well as the filter. this is made by Devillbis and its top notch shit
Btw I spray at around 30psi depending on the gun I use.

Here is a pic of the booth and the oven(no it wont cook a pizza but will warm up cookies awesome)

Here is a pic inside the booth if you look at the celing its full of filters this is refered to as an updraft booth it works but def not the best but eh I like it.
Ok Enough of that

What happens if after you paint a car you get a lot of paint on areas that are already painted well now you need to clay bar(no not playdough) any 3M or Mothers bar will work nicely. Its hard to see in the pics but this fender has a lot of oversprayed clear on it

Ok now you have to spray the area with water and be generous

Now whip out your clay bar I use a 3M one,
 
Toss it on and rub it

You can feel the clay bar drag for 2 reasons one is there is surface imperfections 2 is that there isnt enough water(you be the judge)
You want to feel the bar just glide with little effort over the surface to let you know everything is off the surface.

Say you got over spray on plastic peices no biggie here is a trick I use.
Get your self some compound

put a small amount on a rag

then take and rub the area lightly you will feel the compound bite in then rub it off and wolla no more clear coat on your mirrors

Now suppose you didnt quite mask off everything quite as good as you want like such

now you only need 2 items one is a q-tip the other is thinner

its pretty self easy just use lots of q tips and the paint will soften then eventually dissolve.

Ok now for some fun suppose someone paints a car and gets a pube in the paint(well just hair in general)

take more water and some 2000 grit paper


now sand gently till you get the hair to lift out this one didnt take to much effort but still messed some shit up.

Now to use one of my fav tools my mini buffer

buff away with a little compound and it will shine like the sun.

I know it looks weird but its a shadow of me taking a pic.

Ok now for all you mullet men out there here are some before and after a camaro that i painted for some mexican guy today






Ok No hopefully this one wont be taken down.
Btw this moment brought to you my Mr. Boston Vodka and Lemonade


 
 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Can't see the pics fro¤m my fone but you should use plenty of soap whan you clay bar. Other then that your explanation is fairly solid.

[DasPoop]

Can't see the pics fro¤m my fone but you should use plenty of soap whan you clay bar. Other then that your explanation is fairly solid.

i dont use soap for 2 reasons 1 is that soap often takes off wax and 2 i dont want to mess up my clay bar getting it full of soap if i need to work on a high end car taking off minor surface imperfections

[Aero]

I think we need more stuff like this on here. Its something I want to learn.

[DasPoop]

we busted our asses earlier this week so today is kinda slow and decided to start getting my gfs hatch ready for paint todays post will be everything you need to know about masking an ek. Look for it tonight

[Aero]

Sweet. I've been planning on doing paint and body on the talon soon as I get it running good and turn my gf's garage into a temp paint booth. lol
 With the shitty clearcoat it looks hideous.

[snarf]

body and paint looks like a lot of hard work.  arownd here mostly mexicants do it.

[jabberwock]

It's a combination of patience, time, will power, and alcohol.

[turbob16hatch]

Can i ask why you bother to maskoff little things like door moldings and head/tail lights. Seems like with the time it takes you to tape them off you could have just removed them and in the end chances are the paint won't flake around the moldings and shit.

i know some cars are pita to remove things but j/w?

[jabberwock]

That involves taking door panels, trunk carpet and panels off, taping the inside of these places so you aren't spraying paint into the trunk and cab...

[DasPoop]

That involves taking door panels, trunk carpet and panels off, taping the inside of these places so you aren't spraying paint into the trunk and cab...

exactly i used to all that shit but once you get good at masking its easier to mask it all off i have been doing body work for 6 years you learn all kinds of tricks

[jarebear667]

That involves taking door panels, trunk carpet and panels off, taping the inside of these places so you aren't spraying paint into the trunk and cab...

exactly i used to all that shit but once you get good at masking its easier to mask it all off i have been doing body work for 6 years you learn all kinds of tricks

it will always flake back. you're being lazy taken short cuts, or just doing cheap work for people.
we strip and R/I everything even on cheapo customer pays.

[DasPoop]

i do a lot of production work for people and it Also depends on what prep package people want

[Jorsher]

Good, more of this is welcome.

[Tim]

Thanks for the write up, some shit is obvious but even then always good to see a step by step refresher

Not knocking the write up but I always see shit like that shiny ring recessed where the door handle mounts flaking on cars and anywhere else like that when people mask over remove.  Any tricks to solve that aside from pulling everything?  Those are teh things that differentiate between a quality job that lasts and something that looks good long enough to sell the car.

[DasPoop]

i use my mini sander with 320 or a red scuff pad and the tip of your finger or fold a peice of sand paper in half.

[Joseph Davis]

IDK why your first one was deleted.  I mean, you are an annoying semi-intelligent paint huffer who deserves to get his panties flamed off every time he posts, but it was a worthy attempt at heterosexual posting and you should not be dissuaded from attempting such.

[jarebear667]

why did you 320 the whole thing down?
you arn't base coating over 320 are you? basing over 320 will shrink down and you will see scratches
using a sealer? why seal all that?
what product? we use shirwin williams

say if a car had a dent right in the middle of the door where there were no blend panels needed, we would
[   800 600 repair is in 400, 600 800          ]  suppse to be a door but im bad
[                 repair area is primed              ] 
[                                400 is sealed         ]
[     base over sealer and blend into 600     ] clear over 800

[DasPoop]

yes i seal before i paint. if need be i also use 2k primer then sand that out with 400.

[CSaddict]

I didn't delete the post. I'm not sure who did. Great post.

[DasPoop]

Chris M deleated the post and I am writing up part 2 now which will be a lot more relevant as it as shows how to mask an ek for paint

[Joseph Davis]

Chris M deleated the post and I am writing up part 2 now which will be a lot more relevant as it as shows how to mask an ek for paint

Look.  Chris M is as much of a dick as you are a loser faggot who's trying to impress us, but if you stick in there and suck up how you're treated he'll forget about you pretty soon.  Just keep posting naked women no matter how unnatural it feels to you, and keep with the halfway decent tech (the stuff I think you're wrong about I don't argue with because you've tried to form a solid grasp) and you'll fit in just fine.



Faggot.

[DasPoop]

Ok for todays posting we are strictly going to be talking about the ins and outs of masking.
First start with one 2000 EK hatch courtesy of my gf

First thing I like to do is wipe down with solvent all the areas that are going to have tape applied to. Spray solvent on a towel like so

then wipe down all jams and rubber till there free of dirt and any left over sanding dust that didnt get wiped or blown off


now start with the passanger jam the door first with masking you want to be sure to cover all the areas where when you shut the door paint could possibly find its way in I typically over mask just a tad bit in jams and again the 1/4" rule applies it doesnt have to be exactly perfect as far as measurement but the tape has to be laid flat.

Ok here is a bit of a better pic of the whole door
 
Ok as far as the top of there door this applies to civics aswell as any car that has the rubber on the door and not on the car take tape put it on the inside of the seal and stretch the seal toward the outside of the door this will allow paint to spray into the area just behind the seal so that when the tape is removed the seal covers the line.


ok now that the inside of the door itself is dont we move to the back jam this is pretty much following the same procedure with the 1/4" rule but on civics i mask the first inside lip on the jam

Ok so thats that now we toss a peice of paper alont the bottom to keep shit from blowing in down there.

then toss a few peices of tape along the bottom tape line so you have something to use as a guide when you tape off the side skirt. now fold paper in and toss a few peices to keep it there. carefully shut the door.
now we move to the drivers side now if you dont have to move the car do it the same as the pass side however we have a masking area and have to drive the car into the booth so it requires some of the same techniques but still needs the door to function so its more in depth. basically this involves making all the masking one peice I wont get too into depth as its pretty much the same as the other. More so i will let the pics show whats involved. its not that much more complicated.



ok back to the pass side to do the windows this is super easy the door doesnt need to opened. I always start on the bottom as tape works best in a straight line when its connected to paper and the bottom usually has a straight line. So take your paper and get it as close as you can. trim along the edges and remember to trim a little short so you have room for tape. take your tape then go along the rubber as close to the edge as you can get its not going to be prefect but a slight paint line on the rubber no one is going to notice and for windows I have a trick take some tape and wrap in on the back of a razorblade


Now where your tape lines are on windows take the back edge of the blade and put it under the window at a 45 degree angle then run around the edge and it will roll the tape around to the backside and you have a perfect mask around a window.


now that we have made it this far we move to mirrors there pretty much the same but a trick is to toss a bag over it take then edges then tape the shit out of it. also a small paint brush works really well for laying tape where your fingers cant reach such as behind a mirror.
 
sorry for no pic of the brush i thought i took a pic of it i guess it didnt upload.
Ok so now we have the sides and doors all done now we need to cover the engine and the windshield I start with removing the hood as i always paint it off the car its the part of the car everyone looks at and when its laying flat you can see how the paint is laying out much nicer. After the hood is off take off the wipers. then take a large sheet of paper and cover the engine I mask the jams just like a door about a 1/4" in or in the case of a civic the first lip.  take your paper and afix it to the cowl and along the sides and front of the grill with regards to the fact that anything body color near the front will be changed.


as you can see I attached the windshield paper where the paper on the cowl from the hood met. then I went around the area with thinner paper in this case 6" same rules apply for taping along the rubber strip get it close then go over with more tape to make the line perfect. also in corners if you see I fold and tape the paper this is so that dust cant get trapped in and cause dust to blow out and land in your paint.

work your way around masking around the areas where the fender and car meet a trick is to shove paper towels in the areas and tape over to make the surface flatter. and easier to mask it also is a great paint absorber.
so when all is said and done you have this.

btw that is my buddy bruce in the background i tought him how to mask too.
Ok now onto the moldings and handles here are the tools needed a roll of tape an exacto and a razorblade now take your tape and co over the entire handle and dont try to stretch the tape as it doesnt like to just lay it nice and flat.


ok then carefully take your exacto and cut around the opposite way you laid the tape so it wont peel up when you go in between peices it sounds weird to think of in your head but if you try to go from a lower peice of tape to a higher peice it will pull the higher piece off the lower so work downhill. also tilt your blade at a 45 where the edge is behind the handle. so you get this.

then carefully pull off the outside and again run the backside of a blade along the edge to roll it back and you get this a perfectly masked handle.

Ok now it time for side moldings these you want to work around the outside and fill in the center and dont be affraid to be a perfectionist its ok



sorry its blurry its hard to hold my hand still with my camera ok well thats where i left off today we will have the wrap up(no pun intended) tomm when i finish.
Ok and for all the ballers here pick a color and theres are just the mixers not the bases to start with


and for all the mega ballers pearl anyone


Thanks and enjoy
 

[d112crzy]

Looks like you were taught by Maaco or something. Not taking off moldings, lights and door handles is a sure way for the paint to peel in 5 years or less.

No offense. I have great respect for people that do body work, as it takes a lot of patience and skill. But I wouldn't pay more than $800 for the job you're doing.

[Hotrodlincoln]

You paint over dents? Your edges are gonna peel.  Also try foam  masking tape for jambs, no tape lines in the jambs.

[DasPoop]

like i said earler it all depends on the prep package you want. plus people who want to paint in there garage pry dont want to go through the hassle of removing everything from there car. plus you risk scratching paint when putting things back together. I also do a lot of r/i as well the 53 pontiac in the first post was a a total r/i and restore i have been working on the car off and on for about a month and a half. a lot of cars I do people just want shit painted therefore shit gets masked the way it does my gf wanted a purple civic i asked her about jams and whatnot and she didnt care also who on this site will have a car be the same color for 5 years? for that matter who keeps a car for 5 years?

[DasPoop]

i

You paint over dents? Your edges are gonna peel.  Also try foam  masking tape for jambs, no tape lines in the jambs.

I use foam in jams sometimes depends on the car. Idk why just because you mask around things edges are going to peel I use urethane paints and i dont really have problems with it peeling. I am not going to say that 4 years from now there might be some peeling but by that time it will pry have scratches and all kinds of shit. and i dont usually paint over dents i usually smooth everything out.   

[asx]

How to do a legit garage paintjob. Build a frame with 1x2 boards around car. hang 2-3 normal sized hvac filters, staple plastic dropcloth to the frame/filters, build cardboard duct on opposite side going to your ghetto/salvaged/stolen hvac squirrel cage fan. set off bug bomb and GTFO, wait overnight, hose floor off with water. Boom ghetto paintroom.

HVLP is cool, but requires turbines and shit. you only need it if you want deep sexy sexy paint. If you're doing bullshit like sanding with 320grit You can still get OEM results with LVHP.

FWIW for the RX-7 I did in highschool, I took off all existing paint with this wierd 3M pad thing, It looks like a plastic comb, stuck on an angle grinder pad. Rips straight to the metal quick as hell, but doesn't scratch it. IIRC I started with 600grit and went up to 2k. It looked like you could fall into the hood when it was done. Never got a title for it and it's rusting in the backyard. Lesson Learned.

For the racecar, my dad just hits it with 200-300ish on a DA and squirts it with a VLHP in the yard using whatever paint is cheap. Orange Peel be damned. It still looks better than some OEM paintjobs I've seen.

Paint work sucks dick, but I'd rather suck one dick, than go back and have to suck it all over again because I didn't do a good job. no homo.

[HiProfile]

Regardless of what to/not to do, I found a devilishly simple trick yesterday. If you have a shitty compressor and industrial dryer setup, get some copper, a bag of ice, and some fittings. Run your compressor's outlet to the copper, run it coiled up through a bucket filled with the ice, then to your dryer(s). The icey air shits condensation like bricks vs warm/hot air.

As for the blower you suggest above, I'd just go with a couple box fans. For most people that's more accessable and cheaper.

[LS1pwNzJ00]

How to do a legit garage paintjob. Build a frame with 1x2 boards around car. hang 2-3 normal sized hvac filters, staple plastic dropcloth to the frame/filters, build cardboard duct on opposite side going to your ghetto/salvaged/stolen hvac squirrel cage fan. set off bug bomb and GTFO, wait overnight, hose floor off with water. Boom ghetto paintroom.

HVLP is cool, but requires turbines and shit. you only need it if you want deep sexy sexy paint. If you're doing bullshit like sanding with 320grit You can still get OEM results with LVHP.

FWIW for the RX-7 I did in highschool, I took off all existing paint with this wierd 3M pad thing, It looks like a plastic comb, stuck on an angle grinder pad. Rips straight to the metal quick as hell, but doesn't scratch it. IIRC I started with 600grit and went up to 2k. It looked like you could fall into the hood when it was done. Never got a title for it and it's rusting in the backyard. Lesson Learned.

For the racecar, my dad just hits it with 200-300ish on a DA and squirts it with a VLHP in the yard using whatever paint is cheap. Orange Peel be damned. It still looks better than some OEM paintjobs I've seen.

Paint work sucks dick, but I'd rather suck one dick, than go back and have to suck it all over again because I didn't do a good job. no homo.

Are you sure you are rawr?  Your infatuation with cocks is extremely similar to his..