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[HiProfile]

I was cruising ebay for some cheap CDM hones, hit refresh, and this thing pops up. It was cheaper than the cheapest CDM tool. Got it today, looks really nice. The two rods hold the stones straight for even force throughout the bore.




I was also thinking about sidestepping the valve lapping BS and going the "professional DIY" way. Anyone ever use one of these cutters?

http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/cu128.html




Long story short, I bought a cheap 94 LS with a hydrolocked motor. I plan on swapping in a b18a1 longblock, then see if the b18b1 is salvagable - besides the #1 rod. The piston is sitting 2" lower than #4. Then build it up fairly stock besides GSR pistons (machined to fit) and turbo the bitch for a comfy winter beater.

Anyways, how likely is it the crank is damaged (scored or not straight)?? How likely is the head warped? I can't imaging much beside the rod and end of the sleeve absorbing the force.

[ratcityrex]

Dude, ls motors are all over cl for dirt. I would pick up a running one for cheaper than a rebuild kit for one.

[HiProfile]

The crap around here generally is just that - crap. People want $600-900 for a stock B20. The problem is Milwaukee & chitown has too many hispanics. They fuck motors up, pay whatever it takes to get one, and drive the prices way up.

The dude wanted $1800 for this teg with some rust, old janky Tien coilovers, and a "type-r" lip that didn't even fit. Mexicant pipe dreams are fucking up the honda "scene" here.

[t_cel_t]

yeah even if you cut new seats and have the valves redone you still have to lap them

and the wisconsin thing is true, fucking stock eg's with like 230k still going for 5 grand

[runsfromdacops]

yeah even if you cut new seats and have the valves redone you still have to lap them

and the wisconsin thing is true, fucking stock eg's with like 230k still going for 5 grand

fuck ill send you some cars to sell for me. hondas are dirt cheap here

[DasPoop]

yeah even if you cut new seats and have the valves redone you still have to lap them

and the wisconsin thing is true, fucking stock eg's with like 230k still going for 5 grand

fuck ill send you some cars to sell for me. hondas are dirt cheap here

sell me one i am in Wi and need to find one "cheap" like cheap cheap

as far as hydrolocked motors take it apart and look at the crank bearings if it shows strange wear patters get the crank checked normally it will loft the head crack a piston or head or both

[ApexSilver06MR]

B20's over here straight from jdm land cost $400

[d112crzy]

yeah even if you cut new seats and have the valves redone you still have to lap them

Not true. Some angles don't seal 100% when the motor is cold. Mostly because the seat and the sealing angle are not the same angle. This has its advantages.

Anyways, the head will warp once you take it off. Shouldn't cost more than $50 at your local machine shop to get it resurfaced. A valve job should run around 200-300 depending on the shop. To use that seat cutter, you'll have to buy the guide pilot and you'll still need to figure out a way to do a back-cut on the valves. Too much work/money for what its worth. Also, using that cutter is a PITA for a beginner. Getting each angle at the same width and height as the last is a bitch.

Lap the valves, resurface the head and take crank to shop and have them check for trueness. Rebuild the bottom end and enjoy your cheap beater.

[HiProfile]

I've got a mic that reads to .0001" (not CDM), you think with diy v-blocks I could check trueness? I would assume if the rod journals are out of place so to speak, the middle main journal would be off kilter too.

BTW what do you mean head will warp once removed? Just with that hydrolocked block, or all in general? I've never had a head warp doing helm's "remove in reverse sequence, 1/3 turn each" method.


The irony about me wanting to DIY all this...the house I'm closing on atm is a block away from a engine machine shop.

[DasPoop]

i would say set it in the block with no caps and toss the mic on all the journals rotate it see if it had deviation once you zero it out journal by journal

[theidealone]

How much did you get that hone for? I googled them, and they run about 60 bucks... Where as HF sells a hone for 15.

Im looking at picking up a new hone. Not sure what to get, as Ive never done the deglazing myself.

[HiProfile]

$25 shipped. 3/4 of the stone surface is untouched, so it might have seen 2-3 engines at most. Ebay versions wanted a bit more with shipping, and H-F is far enough away that this made a better deal.

Deglazing can be done with the dingleberry style, but I don't trust them. You're limited to size, and there's another reason I forgot. It's the one a whole family of engine rebuilders told me, not some internet racer. Just use cheap engine oil as a lube for slower cutting and watch your depth - both in & out. If you go balls deep, you risk ruining the stones. If it pops out, you're slightly enlarging the bore's end taper for the rings. I plan on putting this on a drill press to give it a stop limiter.

I'd definately recommend watching it done first, then trying it on a spare block. If you're really good, you can even taper your cylinders and do a plateau hone that Hondas like. Moly and low-tension rings seat better & faster when you do a final few passes with 320 or 400 grit.

[92CXyD]

$25 shipped. 3/4 of the stone surface is untouched, so it might have seen 2-3 engines at most. Ebay versions wanted a bit more with shipping, and H-F is far enough away that this made a better deal.

Deglazing can be done with the dingleberry style, but I don't trust them. You're limited to size, and there's another reason I forgot. It's the one a whole family of engine rebuilders told me, not some internet racer. Just use cheap engine oil as a lube for slower cutting and watch your depth - both in & out. If you go balls deep, you risk ruining the stones. If it pops out, you're slightly enlarging the bore's end taper for the rings. I plan on putting this on a drill press to give it a stop limiter.

I'd definately recommend watching it done first, then trying it on a spare block. If you're really good, you can even taper your cylinders and do a plateau hone that Hondas like. Moly and low-tension rings seat better & faster when you do a final few passes with 320 or 400 grit.

I used a 3 stone 600 grit hone (NAPA).

 Each stone about 4" long and put it on my drill press @ 5k rpm.

Used straight 50w engine oil w/ high det as honing fluid.

Whip out with blue towels thoroughly.

Then thoroughly coat the cylinder w/ ATF  if your are storing the block.

Worked great on my engines. :yes:

[ratcityrex]

Then thoroughly coat the cylinder w/ ATF  if your are storing the block.
Worked great on my Spun rod bearings :yes:

 

[92CXyD]

Then thoroughly coat the cylinder w/ ATF  if your are storing the block.
Worked great on my Spun rod bearings :yes:

 

Yeah that had to with my shity oil pump not the machine work.  ;D

[highroller54]

Yeah I was hoping cosco would start selling engine bearings so I could get them in bulk  ;D

 

[92CXyD]

Yeah I was hoping cosco would start selling engine bearings so I could get them in bulk  ;D

 

Yeah there is an egay store where they are uber-cheap. Like $30 shipped for the whole set.  ;D

[slappynuts]

I think there is some sort of honda meet around here where everyone goes there and trades cam caps with their friends. We are running out of unfucked honda motors here as well.

[HiProfile]

lol I wouldn't put it past some of those retards. I actually got a blox cam seal with the teg, and a STR seal on another B1 head I got (also had a phenolic gasket). This motor ended up having both trans & engine drain plugs swapped to the magnetic passwordjdm stuff. They spend money on the most stupid of bullshit, rather than saving up for stuff that will actually make it fast.