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[hamburgler]

So, Ive been trying to chip my friends JDM ECU for Crome.  I got a complete kit with a bunch of small things that I have never seen before.  This chip kit is way different than any USDM ECU.  Anyways, has anyone on here recently chipped a P30, the ECU with the nasty surface mount solders.  Ill have to post pics of what Ive done.  Long story short, the ECU primes, starts for 1 second and then dies.  Also has a solid engine code...

A link of how to's would be nice.

[chris]

Surface mount ecu's are easy to trash. http://public.fotki.com/eg6ajk/spoonp73/jdmecuobdip30.html




I have done alot of them over the years mostly all jdm ecu's are surface mount




solid cel=you have bad joints/ripped traces

[hamburgler]

Thanks for the link.  All Ive done so far (from information found last week) was add the 28pin socket (100% good), add the 20pin H...373 (questionable), add a J1 jumper (100% good).  The ECU was already manual so I left the RP17 resistor as is.

My problem must be the surface mount H...373.  I assume the orientation of the lettering on the board should be in the same direction as the chip that I soldered in...?  For example, Im not going to solder the  chip upside down to that of the lettering on the board.  Unless this wasn't common sense???

[chris]

5spd ecu doesnt have rp17

[hamburgler]

Well whatever it was I didn't touch it.  Would the best thing to do be taking out the H...373 chip and resolder it or try and fix it?  Its so damn small.  Ill never do one of these again.

[hamburgler]

I should also ask what your doing with that second board at the top.  I believe its called a knock board?  You cant fit a ZIF socket and chip on top of the DIP.  That said, you can barely fit a chip in there.  Its pretty close.  Brutal.

[chris]

I never tried to install a zif in one and yes thats the knock board

[hamburgler]

This may sound like a stupid question, but can that knock board be removed if the 'knock sensor' is disabled?

[chris]

never tried it so I have no idea

[Joseph Davis]

I have the wrong SMT 74HC373s, but they somehow work.  The chip is too wide, meh.

What you are SUPPOSED to do is get one of the SMT rework stations that blow hot air to melt solder.  The guys on chiptuners say that the chinese units work well, I dunno as I've never used one.  Anyway:

1) *glue* the SMT chip into the correct position
2) paint a stripe of solder paste (it's powdered solder mixed with flux in a syrette) across the contacts of the chip.  For these ECUs, two thin lines of the paste, one on each side.
3) hit the chip with the hot air, the solder melts and flows and beads up on the individual contacts without bridging the contacts.  It's pretty cool.


What I do is get one of the cheap irons and sharpen the tip to a fine point with a grinder.  I melt a little solder onto every pad, glue the chip to the board, then place the iron on top of each pin in turn to melt it down.  Ghetto as hell, only done maybe five of them in my life, but it works.

This may sound like a stupid question, but can that knock board be removed if the 'knock sensor' is disabled?

Yes.

[hamburgler]

What I do is get one of the cheap irons and sharpen the tip to a fine point with a grinder.  I melt a little solder onto every pad, glue the chip to the board, then place the iron on top of each pin in turn to melt it down.  Ghetto as hell, only done maybe five of them in my life, but it works.

Yeah, I did the same thing re. melting solder onto each pad and grind down the tip of my iron.  The solders look decent.  Ill have to get out the magnifying glass.  Obviously something is wrong.

I like the heat gun idea.  Ill consider that if my second attempt doesn't work.

[hamburgler]

This may sound like a stupid question, but can that knock board be removed if the 'knock sensor' is disabled?

Yes.
[/quote]

So I can literally 'cut' the ribbon if the knock sensor is disabled?  This would allow me to use the nice levered ZIF socket rather than those friction fit push in's.

[Joseph Davis]

Yeah.  But the more I use them the less I like ZIFs, kinda fragile and prone to oxidation.  Machine pin sockets FTW.

[hamburgler]

Never thought about that.  Good to know.

[chris]

Just for future knowledge the jdm p30 ecu is worth 120+ street value so you could of sold that bought a p06+chipping kit and still had 20-30 bucks in your pocket and had a chipped ecu.

[hamburgler]

Ya, figured.  Its not mine.  Its my friends.  I didn't really want to attempt chipping it as it looked kinda hard...  but here I am now trying to trouble shoot.

[realAgentMurdoc]

Just for future knowledge the jdm p30 ecu is worth 120+ street value so you could of sold that bought a p06+chipping kit and still had 20-30 bucks in your pocket and had a chipped ecu.

exactly what I WOULD HAVE DONE... whoops stuck shift button... so I'll be stupid and add more words rather than backspace and retype in non-caps

[onlyflash944]

Just for future knowledge the jdm p30 ecu is worth 120+ street value so you could of sold that bought a p06+chipping kit and still had 20-30 bucks in your pocket and had a chipped ecu.

yea, i fucked up and sold one i found on craigslist for 40 to xenoqueer for a quick profit

[hamburgler]

If you mess it up, just cut J1 and turn it back to stock...  Desolder the messed up pins and sell if for street value.  It will no longer be 'virgin'.

[hamburgler]

UPDATE: resoldered the whole unit.  Still doesn't work.  Any chance the H...373 could be damaged?  There is nothing I need to cut to enable the external ROM.  Just jump J1, solder in the 28 pin DIP, and then solder in the 20 pin surface mount H...373?  Because all of my solders look good.