Topic: B20 block with si head (Read 15765 times)

d-rail · « **on:** April 18, 2009, 04:19:49 AM »

This is an all motor build but I can get more info here than anywhere else. Besides a good tune what does it take to make a b20 work with an SI head in a 2000 civic SI? Thanks Educated folks.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #1 on:** April 18, 2009, 04:22:25 AM »

i beleave you need the normal ls/vtec or b20/vtec conversion parts liek the dowel pins, oil line, and plug the port on the head.

i have read about some cams having clearence issues on the b20's as the vlave releifs are smaller.

correct me if i'm wrong on that.

but it shouldn't be any harder then a ls/vtec

BoostForLife · « **Reply #2 on:** April 18, 2009, 06:42:10 AM »

same as ls-vtec but larger bore on the headgasket. head studs might be different, and same with water pump/timing belt.

turbohf · « **Reply #3 on:** April 18, 2009, 09:20:23 AM »

use P72/GSR headbolts/headstuds, water pump, timing belt.

like said above use a LSVTEC oil line kit. perfer Endyn or Golden Eagle.

as for valve relefs? idk i used RS "JDM ITR" 84mm pistons, and have no issues.

headgasket = standard P8R gasket off Honda parts shelf (CRV)

oil pump... all OBD2 pumps are "ITR" pumps, so no need to replace unless its abd or your super anal.

chris · « **Reply #4 on:** April 18, 2009, 02:19:53 PM »

oem b20b pistons cant clear anything larger than a gsr camshaft. Low compression too so dont expect much if you run a stock piston

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2009, 04:14:44 PM »

Stock lsvtec motor with super low compression that's great on boost. Do that shit!

B16Drag · « **Reply #6 on:** April 19, 2009, 01:38:56 AM »

'careful with the stupid cylinder walls in the b20... known to crack.

B16Drag · « **Reply #7 on:** April 19, 2009, 02:36:25 AM »

Uhm... sure. I've had my own experience with it so bite me B!TCH!

lilpooh21186 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:53:45 AM »

^^^ FUCK YOU^^^ ;D Just tuned one last night stock block b16 head all the goody boltons moves pretty good. Try it out im thinking about one my self now.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #9 on:** April 19, 2009, 11:17:40 AM »

Stock B20 sleeves are fine as long as you don't autocross or roadrace the engine so it gets completely heat soaked.

turbohf · « **Reply #10 on:** April 19, 2009, 02:37:16 PM »

and thats why i run a full legnth KOYO Aluminum radiator...

you should upgrade your EH/EJ

cooling system also...

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #11 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:57:05 PM »

Single core Civic half radiators support 600 whp turbo cars without a single temp glitch. The only time a Honda overheats is when they have a bunch of shit in front of their radiator.

d-rail · « **Reply #12 on:** April 19, 2009, 11:41:04 PM »

What would be the power differance between running a ls/vtec vs a b20/vtec?

Thanks for the help so far guys.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #13 on:** April 20, 2009, 12:07:38 AM »

Quote from: d-rail on April 19, 2009, 11:41:04 PM

What would be the power differance between running a ls/vtec vs a b20/vtec?

Thanks for the help so far guys.

NA, critical. Boosted, I'd still steer towards the LS.

DmC · « **Reply #14 on:** April 20, 2009, 12:12:13 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on April 19, 2009, 07:57:05 PM

Single core Civic half radiators support 600 whp turbo cars without a single temp glitch. The only time a Honda overheats is when they have a bunch of shit in front of their radiator.

Yup my cars always get the sawzaw to the left side of the bumper and that trim piece between the hood and bumper taken out. My crx runs cool right now 165-170.

My first boosted car I tuned was a 4th gen hatch with a gsr swap the guy left it with me for two weeks while he was on vacation. it kept getting hot were talking like 230-ish. I called him up and said hey I'm cutting about 3" by 15" out of your ricer bumper or your cars gonna blow up. This bumper was really bad it came up all the way under the hood and was solid. He said ok and the car ran cool after that.

d-rail · « **Reply #15 on:** April 20, 2009, 12:22:55 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on April 20, 2009, 12:07:38 AM

Quote from: d-rail on April 19, 2009, 11:41:04 PM
What would be the power differance between running a ls/vtec vs a b20/vtec?

Thanks for the help so far guys.

NA, critical. Boosted, I'd still steer towards the LS.

It is gonna be an NA motor with a B16 head on it either way. Which would be the best choice for a daily driven street "racer" car?

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #16 on:** April 20, 2009, 12:41:13 AM »

DmC · « **Reply #17 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:16:26 AM »

Quote from: d-rail on April 20, 2009, 12:22:55 AM

Quote from: Joseph Davis on April 20, 2009, 12:07:38 AM
Quote from: d-rail on April 19, 2009, 11:41:04 PM
What would be the power differance between running a ls/vtec vs a b20/vtec?

Thanks for the help so far guys.

NA, critical. Boosted, I'd still steer towards the LS.

It is gonna be an NA motor with a B16 head on it either way. Which would be the best choice for a daily driven street "racer" car?

From what Ive seen B20's are a little more toquey. I like them for an NA honda motor.
the ls isn't much differant but usaully there raged out. it's easier to find a decent b20 block.
Add some type r ctr cams and have fun. Not thet their fast. But there is something to be said for a decently high revving daily driver.

Minor Threat · « **Reply #18 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:19:38 AM »

Quote from: Joseph Davis on April 20, 2009, 12:41:13 AM

Yes.

Needs a big shot of nawz

Platinum8317 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 12, 2009, 03:17:11 PM »

I'm currently building a b20/vtec and would like to hear peoples oppinions on which headgasket to use. Been told modified gsr, and been told b20. I'm leaning toward b20, but not sure.

BoostForLife · « **Reply #20 on:** May 12, 2009, 05:41:46 PM »

you need to run a B20 gasket, it's the only OEM Honda gasket that will fit.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #21 on:** May 13, 2009, 01:42:09 AM »

Quote from: Minor Threat on April 20, 2009, 01:19:38 AM

Quote from: Joseph Davis on April 20, 2009, 12:41:13 AM
Yes.

Needs a big shot of nawz

LS rods like 200 shots.

chris · « **Reply #22 on:** May 13, 2009, 05:24:42 AM »

Tony fuchs ran 10's on a stock ls on nitrous with weber carbs=1996

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #23 on:** May 13, 2009, 09:02:46 AM »

One of my friends is building a 14:1 CR LS. Most of the CR is a welded chamber, and he's keeping the stock rods. He'll spray the difference to 300.

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #24 on:** May 13, 2009, 09:03:33 AM »

I love LS. They are just big ZCs. Hard to fuck that up.

chris · « **Reply #25 on:** May 13, 2009, 03:27:31 PM »

Welded chambers are sex

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #26 on:** May 13, 2009, 03:49:17 PM »

Quote from: chris M on May 13, 2009, 05:24:42 AM

Tony fuchs ran 10's on a stock ls on nitrous with weber carbs=1996

here we go again with chris' old school shit..

i was around since then....i think it was like 96

chris · « **Reply #27 on:** May 13, 2009, 06:31:04 PM »

I raced that black car with the rotary a couple times at lacr. Things was louder than hell.

People always seem to forget the simplicity in the setups back then that ran 10's.

ApexSilver06MR · « **Reply #28 on:** May 13, 2009, 07:51:01 PM »

me and chris has been around it all of out lives

we also have projects that the are going to take the longest!

i was around most of the old school shizzle

rx-3's
74 corollas and starlets rocking the 3tc/g on sidedrafts and crazy looking ramhorn n/a headers with bottles all over the place.

chris · « **Reply #29 on:** May 13, 2009, 09:04:48 PM »

My stuff is ready to drop in atleast the f20b build just have to do it

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Author Topic: B20 block with si head (Read 15765 times)

BoostForLife

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BoostForLife

chris

chris

chris

chris