Topic: Oil pans? (Read 22049 times)

NoPistons! · « **on:** June 08, 2012, 06:55:16 PM »

Working on one now. Gigantic pain in the ass. Again, nothing but a flux core, drill and angle grinder to aid my mission.

I hate spinning rod bearings and wanted to make life harder......

Anyone done/doing the same cranking up the nog?

DasPoop · « **Reply #1 on:** June 09, 2012, 03:19:39 PM »

I was at the yard today to pick out my vg30 and it looks like the pathfinder pan will fit the subframe no problem it has a deep rear sump that might get a kickout.

the thing with pans to to keep them clean when fcing and to grind like hell to spot pin holes pin holes get sealed with silicone or boat epoxy

NoPistons! · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2012, 05:18:15 AM »

Yeah. After running a few beads i was like "i'm going to have to grind these welds down. Fucking flux core."

I'll fill it with water first and put it on some cardboard to see if it leaks but will seal it up with black rtv anyway. Thanks for the tippers. I have a rear and front sump pan so i figured if i fuck one up i have another to dick around with. Vg30ftmfw!

patsmx5 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 24, 2012, 02:52:13 AM »

Get a few spot welds or whatever till it's at least not going to fall off. Clean the shit out of it. JB weld all around the oustide, rub the shit into the cracks. Done, it will NEVER leak.

HiProfile · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2012, 11:55:12 AM »

Sometime in July I'm going to try brazing new threads onto a honda pan, since they strip if you look at them wrong. It's the bernzomatic kit that comes with everything for $60, although I paid much less. I figure if jb weld can hold, brazing will be no prob. JB weld just looks like ass, but usually nobody will ever see it.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #5 on:** August 20, 2012, 11:43:58 AM »

Jb weld is plenty strong for alot of shit. I'm a believer. Thanks. It doesn't have to be pretty, just do the mundane job of holding oil.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #6 on:** August 28, 2012, 08:47:45 PM »

Probably never doing this again with a mig. Ever. Fuck that..... *edit: would just buy the now existing swap kit pan, something from moroso, pay someone else, etc.... This shit sucks. Nothing has been enjoyable about it..... Floor n doors aren't burned in yet. Haven't thought of turbo oil drain. I may just cut my rear sump (xtralongz) pickup tube apart just for turbo oil drain so i can clamp maybe 2-3" of hose from the pan to hardline. Buddy needed my oil kit. I'm improvising.... Anyway....

Pickup tube 1" cut out and rewelded back up. Filter basket was told to gtfo after slag and crap fell into the tube and wasn't coming out any other way....

Tip: When re-loading your mig, DO NOT EVER do it pissed, hot and bothered. Stabbed about halfway through my thumb into the joint with wire. Feels fantastic right now. I bled for you faggots.....

HiProfile · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:35:40 PM »

Maybe I should have mentioned before this - brazing does not melt the pan's metal, nor the sheet metal of the new sump.

The other part is how it seals holes. When I MIG'd my fuel rail, I recall the small parts & welds loved to develop holes. 2/3 my time was finding and fixing leaks.

DasPoop · « **Reply #8 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:42:29 PM »

why did you paint your pickup tube

Are you afraid its going to rust?

NoPistons! · « **Reply #9 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:14:21 PM »

Sitting outside, fuck yeah. Southeast humidity is no joke..... I left a brand new turbo in my basement for 3 months, brought it up today and casting is flashed all over it. It's not climate controlled. Damp enough to where crickets blanket the damn walls getting their hydration on all day......

Hiprofile, i'll have to go the jb weld route at this point to make sure i'm sealed up but i'm confident that if the pan does take a hard hit it will buckle instead of bust and piss all over the place. Different strokes though. I simply had an idea and ran with it. Skin it however you want.

HiProfile · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2012, 07:19:03 PM »

Get some CRC SP-350 or SP-400, even WD-40 will work.

I feel ya with already-fucked problem, I know that feeling. I recall a HF manifold someone had a flange brazed onto it that took a lot of abuse. COnsidering the manifold would get dull read, it did very well. I know if I had a TIG I wouldn't bother with brazing.

rawr · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2012, 10:17:30 PM »

brazing is really strong, can be done on thinner material than welding can and is a clean process.

The only reason it is not that common is it takes more time and energy to do.

stealthiskey · « **Reply #12 on:** August 31, 2012, 08:43:07 AM »

brazing is a pita, and that 60$ comes with oxy acetylene 1lb bottles right? The replacement o2 bottles arre like $10 a pop and you will go through them like crazy, uses 16x as much o2 as acetylene. Totally not worth it unless you get a bigger refillable o2 tank.

Flux core is great. Get yourself one of these for grinding the welds. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202830904/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=flap+wheel&storeId=10051#.UECweKCQlc4

It's flexible unlike a regular grinding disc so it conforms to the surface you're trying to smooth up. Also removes steel just as fast as ordinary grinding wheel. Weld around it, doesnt have to be perfect, -> grind the shitty spots down -> weld again > grind > weld >grind etc

92CXyD · « **Reply #13 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:09:01 AM »

Quote from: stealthiskey on August 31, 2012, 08:43:07 AM

brazing is a pita, and that 60$ comes with oxy acetylene 1lb bottles right? The replacement o2 bottles arre like $10 a pop and you will go through them like crazy, uses 16x as much o2 as acetylene. Totally not worth it unless you get a bigger refillable o2 tank.

Flux core is great. Get yourself one of these for grinding the welds. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202830904/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=flap+wheel&storeId=10051#.UECweKCQlc4

It's flexible unlike a regular grinding disc so it conforms to the surface you're trying to smooth up. Also removes steel just as fast as ordinary grinding wheel. Weld around it, doesnt have to be perfect, -> grind the shitty spots down -> weld again > grind > weld >grind etc

Good info., I may havr to give some of this a try over the winter.

Phate · « **Reply #14 on:** September 01, 2012, 11:22:53 AM »

Quote from: stealthiskey on August 31, 2012, 08:43:07 AM

brazing is a pita, and that 60$ comes with oxy acetylene 1lb bottles right? The replacement o2 bottles arre like $10 a pop and you will go through them like crazy, uses 16x as much o2 as acetylene. Totally not worth it unless you get a bigger refillable o2 tank.

Flux core is great. Get yourself one of these for grinding the welds. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202830904/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=flap+wheel&storeId=10051#.UECweKCQlc4

It's flexible unlike a regular grinding disc so it conforms to the surface you're trying to smooth up. Also removes steel just as fast as ordinary grinding wheel. Weld around it, doesnt have to be perfect, -> grind the shitty spots down -> weld again > grind > weld >grind etc

We use these in the shop at school, they're great.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2012, 09:20:12 AM »

Well done, man up and go weld something else up!

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #16 on:** September 06, 2012, 10:12:40 PM »

This is how much I stand behind brazing. Been whoring out this custom fitting for banjo'd oil feed turbos for many years. Has yet to be a problem. Was a SS barb and brass auto meter copper hose fitting.

HiProfile · « **Reply #17 on:** September 07, 2012, 12:32:20 AM »

If you go that far, I'd suggest getting SS nuts - drill & braze a 1/8" union to the side of them. With crush washers they seal great. I have one on a honda fuel filter in place of the banjo fitting to convert from banjo to NPT.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2012, 07:00:03 PM »

@crxvtak9juan: Been welding like a motherfucker on shit. There's more to be done. I'll either post in this section or in my build thread. Patience brother.

Quote from: stealthiskey on August 31, 2012, 08:43:07 AM

brazing is a pita, and that 60$ comes with oxy acetylene 1lb bottles right? The replacement o2 bottles arre like $10 a pop and you will go through them like crazy, uses 16x as much o2 as acetylene. Totally not worth it unless you get a bigger refillable o2 tank.

Flux core is great. Get yourself one of these for grinding the welds. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202830904/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=flap+wheel&storeId=10051#.UECweKCQlc4

It's flexible unlike a regular grinding disc so it conforms to the surface you're trying to smooth up. Also removes steel just as fast as ordinary grinding wheel. Weld around it, doesnt have to be perfect, -> grind the shitty spots down -> weld again > grind > weld >grind etc

I've heard that brazing is very comparable in strength to a weld. For sure wanna check out some flap disks. Overdue for a trip to both the junkyard, harbor frieght and lowes/home depot. Sometime in october. WIll try to get some work done on this pan during the week. I also have to extend my steering shaft on the same car. Whatever i feel like starting on after i wake up and have my coffee.

I would have rather brazed the fittings i used on an fmu one time than jb weld. The jbweld held up tho!

Anyone hates on that and i will personally punch them in the jeans. Hell fucking yeah!

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2012, 08:34:32 PM »

As soon a I install my greddy oil line, that exact fitting will be for sale

lol. Nothing like an auto meter gauge tube for a feed line

But if the pieces are hot enough, the braze takes well and is strong as hell!

NoPistons! · « **Reply #20 on:** September 09, 2012, 05:09:01 PM »

Shit so i take it in order to have a good bond you need to pre-heat both peices much like you would arc welding cast stuff?

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #21 on:** September 11, 2012, 12:25:21 AM »

Not exactly, but that would give the best results.

It's more like (actually exactly the same as) soldering. Heat is needed for the flux (glass in this case) and brazing material to bond to the surface.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #22 on:** September 17, 2012, 12:51:31 PM »

Glass? Would be a fair bet to say tacking the walls to the sump and stitching using a welder and then sealing the seams up with brazing would be an excellent way in the future to tackle a job like this? I'm too far gone to re-do it but if this one eats it hard and busts open you know what it is. I appreciate the insight no doubt!

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #23 on:** September 17, 2012, 02:22:47 PM »

ya, the stuff that ends up on it after flux and braze is more like glass than all else.... i believe the old can of flux we used was a soda ash/silica type.

very ancient stuff we used. his dad left him a wealth of old skool goodies.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #24 on:** September 18, 2012, 05:06:12 AM »

My dad fucked my mom. counts for something, right?

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #25 on:** September 19, 2012, 10:54:21 AM »

Quote from: NoPistons! on September 18, 2012, 05:06:12 AM

My dad fucked my mom. counts for something, right?

hopefully for you, if not the mailman =)

HiProfile · « **Reply #26 on:** September 20, 2012, 11:29:26 PM »

Brazing usually needs a gap comparable to what a TIG needs. However I've seen people build up material when brazing that makes some of our flux-cored birdshit welds look downright professional.

The smaller the gap, the easier it flows and the stronger it holds. In your case it will mostly do sealing duty, and partly hold it together.

NoPistons! · « **Reply #27 on:** September 23, 2012, 09:06:55 PM »

Goddamn i miss tig welding. =(

Going the low buck as fuck jb weld route because i still have stuff i need to order for my build tomorrow morning. I'm pushing pretty hard to turn the motor over in a few weeks...not months thank fucking god finally and see if i can take it around the block. Decisions were made, corners were cut. This is RHMT and the low standards just seem to work out for the best more often than not.

Quote from: JaredKaragen on September 19, 2012, 10:54:21 AM

Quote from: NoPistons! on September 18, 2012, 05:06:12 AM
My dad fucked my mom. counts for something, right?

hopefully for you, if not the mailman =)

Yeah. I'm glad to be alive for the most part. Aside from the typical oil drain line...anyone else care to show off their pans? I made the thread so we could see other peoples shit. Not just mine....unless you are too super secret street racer to post up?

92CXyD · « **Reply #28 on:** September 24, 2012, 12:19:53 AM »

From my build thread, nothing labor intensive as yours, but that is how mine looks

Chose to have the return come in above the baffle and in between reinforcement ribs of the pan.

I was looking for an aluminum 1/2" or larger tube for the return.

Then I remembered the line to the old a/c condenser I have laying around.

Positioned the line pointing to center and up, while making sure it is in no position to make it hard to tighten the oil pan to block fasteners.

JaredKaragen · « **Reply #29 on:** September 25, 2012, 03:04:39 AM »

cheap wirefeed: leaked.

waterwelded after wirefeed: seeps.

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Author Topic: Oil pans? (Read 22049 times)