I left the seal in there. The downside, that new ebay oil pan gasket is a pile of shit. Some of the exposed corners are already dryrotted and that vexed me a little bit so imma go to advanced tomorrow and scoop up the following i need:
Range 7 turbo spark plugs
Belt for my fucking ps
FELPRO oil pan gasket. Their blue plastic rubbery shit is made of magical smurf spunk that's not quite dry yet. Gargamel deez nuts.
Prolly some rtv and a t stat. If i dont plan on driving the car below sub zero with straight water nor do i run a heater core for luxury, do i even need a thermostat? Can i just say, fuck you bitch and leave that out and still be fine? Mine was seized open.
I had to go to the weld shop in town (5 minute drive) and bumped into an old friend. The best time to have at the titty bar or any bar is usually with that guy. Life of the party. Just moved back from FL not to long ago and he'll be tig welding a 45* elbow on my t stat housing to clear the ps belt. If you take a look at my motor here you can see exactly why the fuck that lower coolant hose wont work with a belt in place.... Pissed me the fuck off yesterday but at least dude man is gonna hook my shit up so it works....i hope. Waiting on their call now. They had to call the machine shop down the road to see if they had any aluminum elbows. Weld shop was fresh out. Have a look at the clusterfuck. Yeah, i put my timing cover back on. Safety and all.....
Pulley directly above the crank pulley is for the water pump. Belt runs from that all the way to the passenger side to the ps pulley, the idler/tensioner pulley and back to the crank. Look to the left of the water pump pulley and that silver aluminum piece of fuck bested me yesterday when we were prepping to put her back in the car.
Tranny and six puck bolted up. Um, i broke 2 of the pressure plate bolts off in the flywheel overtorquing, fixed it. Then fixed all the broken studs in the heads. I found some grade 8.8's to replace everything i broke so no fancy oem nissan shit that will probably just break again. ARP studs pull a premium so i passed those up too. 8.8 is good enough. They haven't failed me on any of the cars i've used them on. They tend to not strip out either but have stripped 2 or 3 i was still able to remove without much trouble. CHeap=winning. Fuck the law.
Here are my engine mount jigs and my engine mounts i made. It's only 1/8" thick steel but the fwd maxi mounts are thinner than this shit and hold up fine. I also have templates made so later on we can step them up to 1/4". I'm losing faith in my want of this motor for the trouble so vg30dett perhaps? Vq35de swap? Something of that nature. Idk but v6/v8 pretty much kills inline 6 if you want to keep your firewall intact and want a well balanced car. If i had to go straight six and older ford unit, nissan l28, benz or bimmer motor would be what i'd want. Fuck a 2jz. Fuck an rb. I want shit nobody has. Enough bullshit and tuner banter and i want but dont has. The goods:
These took me maybe 20 minutes total to weld up. I speeded on that shit and was rather impressed. They are outer seam welded fully and then reinforced on the inside with .5-1" stitching just to be sure they dont shear apart. They COULD bend but that's unlikely. I've seen worse hold 450hp rb motors up. Lol.
We did some block off plates.... Used some jb weld on some shit. Custom recycled throttle cable holder. That's why the intake was off in the previous pic explaining that situation with the t-stat housing.
I'm not sure wtf went here. Bolt got stripped, easy out broke off in that faggot so jb weld.
Dont have a heater core. damn sure didn't mess with the maxima parts to make up the external coolant system because it's all weird and fucked up. I need to block these off. They may water cool some snail action in the future. Idk. Used weld weld for this. Some kind of weird low iron alloy.
I burned myself to take those pics for you internets.
Coolant source on the lower intake manifold that heats up the throttle body as well as some other sort of idle assistance shit. There was more emissions/idle shit on this than there was my rotary. Go figure. Fucking piston engines.... I stuck an 8.8 bolt that just barely fit in there, added jb weld and presto!
Some other intake block off plate. I made it from part of the hood from my old rx7. She lives on through this tub of shit. Pizz is another alias i use on the reg. Yes, that is a dick. It's a needle dick but a dick none the less.
Speaking of dicks, this was the honda header downpipe i snagged. A bend of it anyway. Pipe within a pipe. Those things are suprisingly light despite that.
Using those bends with some tubular vq35de 350z headers instead of fucking with the maxima splogs. i'm sick of those things. They have bad placement and i'm sure they wont sound too nice. The bolt pattern on th eflange is nearly identical so i'll be using these for na/turbo/etc. We opted to actually run on the motor for now just to play with the car and ms and i decided to try the vq headers out because they'd be the shit for a TT setup. I already have 2 oil lines, 2 vband kits, wouldn't be too hard to add another drain to my oil pan and these headers look a hell of alot better for the task than splogs.....
Same design. Different brand. Hope to order those tomorrow or sunday. They should clear all my accessories, the valve covers and hood flipped facing forwards. If not, i got a buddy of mine down the street who's got a nice fitted/dumped g35 who would scoop them up if i can't work with em.
Free intercooler piping, boost tubes and couplers. FREE, FREE, FREE!
Box of various scavenged radiator hoses in good shape. Holes here and there but otherwise good shape. Also freebies. =D
The z transmission front plate. TOB, SLAVE, FORK and all that shit is the same as 240/silvia stuff but the pivot ball/clutch forks are in different orientation because of bellhousing differences. I hate this fucking plate. I had to jump through hoops for six months to get it.
Slaves. 240 slave has the red ss line on it.
Massuh say dat dey dont matter which you gon' use. Both bolt up to either bellhousing.
Some more megasquirt porn because i'm proud i actually built that shit. I may have broken it. I hope not. D18 (center led on the squirt box) isn't doing a damn thing but MS itself is able to process inputs on the stim and tuner studio's dashboard shows those inputs being read by the ms. Hmm.
MSxtra code DID burn fine to the processor so it's in there. Just not sure wtf is going on with my led's on my ms itself. Fiddle, fuel pump and both inj on the stim kick on during power on hooked TO the ms. They wont do that start up unless the two are paired.
IF YOU EVER DO A FROM SCRATCH WIRE HARNESS USE DIYAUTOTUNES WIRE! For real. The bundle is cheap. This stuff feels great in your hands. You can tell it's quality right after pulling it out of the bag. Way better than cheap hardware store wire, speaker wire (though you could use quality rca cable for your cas/dizzy wire because it's shielded from noise).
If i repeat myself it's because i dont re-read my threads or recall.
Fuck the internet.