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NoPistons!

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Again, confirmed.   Like you can tell people that all day you run a risk of longevity.  People who have out of the box sent them off to a good shop to get balanced can go over that limit and get a few seasons out of them.   

They list in peak power/psi.  That's where it's misleading.

Junkyard has me sore as fuck and i said i wasn't going to do anything but i started working on my db37 connector for the ms1.  The harness wires feel awesome in your hands.  silky and smooth.  I'd fap to it.  did not finish the rest because these two diagrams are BOTH for ms v2.2.......  That's the board i have.  Take special attention to the grounds.......  dafuq i do?





And i have an ms3 harness kit so the colors are kinda off so i need to stop being pc lazy and ms paint my own diagram with the proper color.  I just wired them by idiot proof pin  number.  It runs the full length of the wire aside from grounds and crank signal shielded.  Gotta ask which is the correct for mine. 

The itch for rx7 number 3 got reignited.


Before i install my flywheel and clutch in the aftermath post apocalyptic wasteland would it be a good idea to rtv around the rear main seal like so? Say hondabond one more time...  O0   I'm sure it wont hurt, would it? 

I'll drop off some goodies in here day after xmas.  I hope you enjoy it.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 10:10:48 PM by NoPistons! »
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NoPistons!

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I left the seal in there.  The downside, that new ebay oil pan gasket is a pile of shit.  Some of the exposed corners are already dryrotted and that vexed me a little bit so imma go to advanced tomorrow and scoop up the following i need:

Range 7 turbo spark plugs
Belt for my fucking ps
FELPRO oil pan gasket.  Their blue plastic rubbery shit is made of magical smurf spunk that's not quite dry yet. Gargamel deez nuts.
Prolly some rtv and a t stat.  If i dont plan on driving the car below sub zero with straight water nor do i run a heater core for luxury, do i even need a thermostat?  Can i just say, fuck you bitch and leave that out and still be fine?  Mine was seized open.


I had to go to the weld shop in town (5 minute drive) and bumped into an old friend.  The best time to have at the titty bar or any bar is usually with that guy.  Life of the party.  Just moved back from FL not to long ago and he'll be tig welding a 45* elbow on my t stat housing to clear the ps belt.   If you take a look at my motor here you can see exactly why the fuck that lower coolant hose wont work with a belt in place....  Pissed me the fuck off yesterday but at least dude man is gonna hook my shit up so it works....i hope.  Waiting on their call now.  They had to call the machine shop down the road to see if they had any aluminum elbows.  Weld shop was fresh out.   Have a look at the clusterfuck.  Yeah, i put my timing cover back on.  Safety and all.....



Pulley directly above the crank pulley is for the water pump.  Belt runs from that all the way to the passenger side to the ps pulley, the idler/tensioner pulley and back to the crank.   Look to the left of the water pump pulley and that silver aluminum piece of fuck bested me yesterday when we were prepping to put her back in the car. 

Tranny and six puck bolted up.   Um, i broke 2 of the pressure plate bolts off in the flywheel overtorquing, fixed it.  Then fixed all the broken studs in the heads.  I found some grade 8.8's to replace everything i broke so no fancy oem nissan shit that will probably just break again.  ARP studs pull a premium so i passed those up too.  8.8 is good enough.  They haven't failed me on any of the cars i've used them on.  They tend to not strip out either but have stripped 2 or 3 i was still able to remove without much trouble.   CHeap=winning.  Fuck the law.

Here are my engine mount jigs and my engine mounts i made.  It's only 1/8" thick steel but the fwd maxi mounts are thinner than this shit and hold up fine.  I also have templates made so later on we can step them up to 1/4".  I'm losing faith in my want of this motor for the trouble so vg30dett perhaps?  Vq35de swap?  Something of that nature.  Idk but v6/v8 pretty much kills inline 6 if you want to keep your firewall intact and want a well balanced car.  If i had to go straight six and older ford unit, nissan l28, benz or bimmer motor would be what i'd want.  Fuck a 2jz.  Fuck an rb.  I want shit nobody has.  Enough bullshit and tuner banter and i want but dont has.  The goods:













These took me maybe 20 minutes total to weld up.  I speeded on that shit and was rather impressed.  They are outer seam welded fully and then reinforced on the inside with .5-1" stitching just to be sure they dont shear apart.  They COULD bend but that's unlikely.  I've seen worse hold 450hp rb motors up.  Lol.

We did some block off plates....  Used some jb weld on some shit. Custom recycled throttle cable holder.  That's why the intake was off in the previous pic explaining that situation with the t-stat housing.





I'm not sure wtf went here.  Bolt got stripped, easy out broke off in that faggot so jb weld.



Dont have a heater core.  damn sure didn't mess with the maxima parts to make up the external coolant system because it's all weird and fucked up.   I need to block these off.  They may water cool some snail action in the future.  Idk.  Used weld weld for this.  Some kind of weird low iron alloy. 





I burned myself to take those pics for you internets.



Coolant source on the lower intake manifold that heats up the throttle body as well as some other sort of idle assistance shit.   There was more emissions/idle shit on this than there was my rotary.  Go figure.  Fucking piston engines....   I stuck an 8.8 bolt that just barely fit in there, added jb weld and presto! 

 

Some other intake block off plate.  I made it from part of the hood from my old rx7.   She lives on through this tub of shit.   Pizz is another alias i use on the reg. Yes, that is a dick.  It's a needle dick but a dick none the less.



Speaking of dicks, this was the honda header downpipe i snagged.  A bend of it anyway.  Pipe within a pipe.    Those things are suprisingly light despite that. 

Using those bends with some tubular vq35de 350z headers instead of fucking with the maxima splogs.   i'm sick of those things.  They have bad placement and i'm sure they wont sound too nice.   The bolt pattern on th eflange is nearly identical so i'll be using these for na/turbo/etc.   We opted to actually run on the motor for now just to play with the car and ms and i decided to try the vq headers out because they'd be the shit for a TT setup.  I already have 2 oil lines, 2 vband kits, wouldn't be too hard to add another drain to my oil pan and these headers look a hell of alot better for the task than splogs.....



Same design.  Different brand.  Hope to order those tomorrow or sunday.   They should clear all my accessories, the valve covers and hood flipped facing forwards.  If not, i got a buddy of mine down the street who's got a nice fitted/dumped g35 who would scoop them up if i can't work with em.



Free intercooler piping, boost tubes and couplers.   FREE, FREE, FREE!







Box of various scavenged radiator hoses in good shape.  Holes here and there but otherwise good shape.  Also freebies. =D



The z transmission front plate.   TOB, SLAVE, FORK and all that shit is the same as 240/silvia stuff but the pivot ball/clutch forks are in different orientation because of bellhousing differences.  I hate this fucking plate.  I had to jump through hoops for six months to get it.

Slaves.   240 slave has the red ss line on it.



Massuh say dat dey dont matter which you gon' use.   Both bolt up to either bellhousing.

Some more megasquirt porn because i'm proud i actually built that shit. I may have broken it.  I hope not.   D18 (center led on the squirt box) isn't doing a damn thing but MS itself is able to process inputs on the stim and tuner studio's dashboard shows those inputs being read by the ms.  Hmm.

MSxtra code DID burn fine to the processor so it's in there.  Just not sure wtf is going on with my led's on my ms itself.  Fiddle, fuel pump and both inj on the stim kick on during power on hooked TO the ms.  They wont do that start up unless the two are paired.





IF YOU EVER DO A FROM SCRATCH WIRE HARNESS USE DIYAUTOTUNES WIRE!   For real.  The bundle is cheap.  This stuff feels great in your hands. You can tell it's quality right after pulling it out of the bag.  Way better than cheap hardware store wire, speaker wire (though you could use quality rca cable for your cas/dizzy wire because it's shielded from noise).

If i repeat myself it's because i dont re-read my threads or recall.





 Fuck the internet.





PhilStubbs

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I wanted to read the whole update but I got lazy. Maybe on my lunch break.

You absolutely need a thermostat. Oil is meant to run at 180°F. Running it cooler or hotter will cause things to wear quickly.
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

crxvtec91

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I like what I am seeing! Keep it up nog!

How much was the V3 stuff?
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My build thread; http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2444.0


I like my girls like I like my cars, rich and retarded.

NoPistons!

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Ok good.  I need to stop listening to old school v8 people who really aren't that bright then.   Several have told me to fuck a thermostat.   Because turbo car and that makes alot of fucking sense i'll listen to you.  I'm told already it would be in my best interest to invest in an oil cooler of some kind if i want to beat on this for a while.



That is a v2.2 ms1 board with the latest version of extra code booted and my jimstim 1.5.  V3.0 processor.  Extras i had to get was a db9 serial to usb adapter kit and the harness bundle.  8' i think. It's not bad.  So far i'm not regretting it.   Learnings R funz.  Prices are up on diyautotune.com.  I've heard all kinds of horror stories from people buying second hand ecu's so opted to pay retail.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2013, 03:29:56 PM by NoPistons! »
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PhilStubbs

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Looking at your tiny turbo I'm going to ASSume this is a drift car. Yes, I would run an oil cooler. You spend a lot of time on the throttle with a drift car at slow speeds and also sideways. There isn't much air flow through the radiator that way. You might even want to log oil temps to see what's going on. You don't want to over cool it but you don't want it hot either.

Don't listen to those dumb v8 rednecks. No thermostat can cause over heating too. The thermostat is an on/off switch for the radiator where it decides when the coolant needs to go through there, but its also a restriction. Imagine taking a bottle of water and setting it in a pot of boiling water for 5 seconds, then putting it in the freezer for 1 second. Then back in the boiling water for 5 seconds and so on. The bottle of water will continue to get hotter. The thermostat slows the flow of coolant so the water bottle can be in the radiator for 5 seconds just like the boiling water. Then the water bottle will stay at a constant temperature.
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

NoPistons!

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Yep.  Drift car. Fair enough assumption.  All out power isn't the main focus.  Motor is limited to 500hp or less.  I do want to throw down on the 1/8th and 1/4 just to see what it'll pull.  that's why it has big boy tires on it at the moment.   Usually for sliding most under 350whp run 235's max.   255-265 making close to 400.


If i did nothing but drag i'd do my warmup, stage, make a run and cool off it seems like no t-stat would be fine.  Maybe thats what they were implying.  I'm the only so called "drifter" in my  immediate area.  Everyone else is in the street or track game trying to make paper.

PhilStubbs

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No T-stat would take forever to warm up. You'd want to kill yourself at the track.
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

NoPistons!

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Lol. I'll be running one for sure.  Thanks for the solid advice.

NoPistons!

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Meh.  I got bored the past two days.  I made this out of v1 mani.  Call it v1.5.   I have no idea how much it's going to cost to get this and that shit to get my belt vs coolant routing vs accessory mounting taken care of.   Said fuck it and cranked the nog gauge to 11 again.  This one came out a hell of alot better.    Looks good imo.

Mani fab isn't exactly easy but there's steps one can take to make it a bit easier.   Put the flange/collector where you want it in a fixed spot first and make the bends go there.  simple enough.   Have all but one bend (probably a series of pie cuts and a straight) left and have to order some 2" vbands to make this work.  $33 a pop for those where as 2.5" v bands only run $12-18 per kit.  Bullshit. 


Pictures because talk is cheap.....















Yeah boi!

ratcityrex

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Pump Shit!
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4   
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

NoPistons!

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Ol' lady wont let me.  =(

Thinking about making a steel tstat housing for freeeeee to get around all sorts of waiting and money spending.  How to get that to work without rotting all to fuck?  Good coolant mix recipes?

Ntrain2k

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Ol' lady wont let me.  =(

Thinking about making a steel tstat housing for freeeeee to get around all sorts of waiting and money spending.  How to get that to work without rotting all to fuck?  Good coolant mix recipes?

Powdercoat that bitch inside and out.
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PhilStubbs

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Por15 on the inside. It works better if there is some slight rust too.
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

NoPistons!

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I forgot about por15.  That stuff is like the jb weld of coatings but not really.  Tough stuff!  I figure i can cut the flange out of 1/8" plate, use a vatozone galavanized reducer, bend some shit ironworker hammer and tack style and maybe spend about $15 out of pocket. 

Still trying to find a place that sells v bands for under $33 shipped.  I would rather get those vs something a bit more time consuming or in the way all bullshit looking, however with the flexy on it it could technically all stay one piece and still able to unbolt and pull off the motor.   Suggestions?  If it was your manifold, how would you go about that?

Picked up a t stat, power steering belt and oil pan gasket, which is way different than what i expected.  Two seals, one rear and one front and two tubes of rtv.  No wrap around full perimeter gasket.  $10 for the belt, $10 for the t stat and $18 for the belt which isn't bad.  Bitch needs a t stat housing, finalized welding on downpipe and mani and she can go back in!!!!!!  Holy fuck i'm excited guys.

 :Jew:  To the max.    :Jew:

crxvtec91

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Good stuff, now...... DO WORK :noel:
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My build thread; http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2444.0


I like my girls like I like my cars, rich and retarded.

NoPistons!

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I'll get what i can done.   Been some bullshit going on.  I'm not exactly thrilled but that's how it goes....

NoPistons!

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Well today wasn't going to be a work day on the car but i have my fuel pump and kinda need to drop my gas tank.   Phone's charged so i'll take pics of the rot.  Hopefully there wont be that many to take and it's just the stud area for the pump carrier that's fucked.  Pray 4 me nigs.

PhilStubbs

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i dont pray, but im hopfull. does that work? lol
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

NoPistons!

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You can pray to Corky Bell and i wont tell anyone.

Rest assured i'm not one of those religious types.   :evil:

I bout got the bitch down but can't get the stupid fill tube off.  If the car was a rust free clean virgin life would be easier but this one was already fucked with.  No part of the car was untouched.....   Not sure if a worm clamp, spring ring clamp or what the fuck is on this.  I know my boys maxima we replaced the tank on had spring clamps and it was obvious.  We didn't use no fucking manual and flipped the car over up against a tree in the junkyard like real men.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2013, 04:40:51 PM by NoPistons! »
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NoPistons!

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Surprise.  Wat bro 340lb/hr was on the hanger in the tank.  Shits clean inside there with no rust so i guess alls good.  Probably should have checked prior to ordering a pump but at the same time i was shaking my head.


Pretty sure i'm good now.   I forgot where i put my new fuel pump tho.  Saw it on the roof of my car last.   I was cold as fuck.  My face is still burning.  Could be the 93 octane fumes.  I still have half a tank of that shit in there.

HiProfile

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I had that happen too; however, it was a 190lph and I was putting in a gsr pump.
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they mspainted dildoes in my mom'#039#039s hand, in a picture of her in a hospital bed. -JD
dem gurls need some boobz! -Engloid

NoPistons!

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Hell yeah.  :noel:

I'm not quite sure what the hell this pump was doing in here.  that's alot of fuel.

I'm always down for "free" fuel pumps regardless of reason.

ironcrx

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Hell yea I'm loving this.  Theres so much damn shit your doing.  I'm so glad I don't have to do nearly as much shit like that with mine  :Jew:
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"quotquotI lost a testical to cancer and I still got more balls than anyone else in the room!"quotquot

NoPistons!

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Yeah.  it's ALOT of shit.  Fuck i never thought it'd be this much when i was planning it all out. 

Most of it was fab.  Now it's trying to get a handle on this megasquirt.



I spent easily 6 hours today alone reading up on what not to do pretty much.   As far as full install, i got that part down.  It's the settings for cranking i see ALOT of people having problems with.   Again, going with 2jz/7mgte settings first and seeing where that road leads.  if you change your mind chasing the idea you need a 3.3L ecu  i'd be happy to share my findings IF i can get this shit sorted.

ironcrx

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Keep me up to date.  In the mean time I'm going to try out the 3.0 ecu with the 3.3l theory.
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"quotquotI lost a testical to cancer and I still got more balls than anyone else in the room!"quotquot

NoPistons!

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You should be fine.  The only thing is if you have non interference camshafts and use an interference camshaft ecu (or vice versa) the lift is going to be different on the cams.  Fueling and timing requirements are probably different as well.  Maf, 02, injectors must match what came with the factory ecu.  Better safe than sorry, i would match the cams and tps too.

I burnt the shit out of my thumb today.  Really need to get some welding gloves that are thin enough to do work yet minimize pain.  my 2.5" down pipe flexy is on it's way.  It's ss.  it was 15 doll hairs shipped.  I'll be stoked when it arrives.  One step closer to being "finished" with the exhaust system.  I'll add a cut out later.  I bought the flexy so i can dodge my steering column and cylinder head by running parallel to the frame rail.   All welds aside from the good fused pie cuts are gusset jointed.  confident it wont crack for a while if at all.   When i get her back in the car and bolt some shit on i'll do picture time. 

Laters.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2013, 08:25:11 PM by NoPistons! »
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NoPistons!

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Moar setbacks.   

So after wrapping up my manifold and admiring it's sexiness in clothes i went to fit it.  Collector had to be cut off both bank bends and re-clocked.    I took some measures to eliminate walking.  It walked anyway.   Motherfucker.

It's been reclocked just not fully welded.  I had planned on wrapping manifold, test fitting, going to the hardware store to get some exhaust studs and reducer couplers....possibly getting the first section of downpipe tacked up.   I'm using hobart wire now after running out of my beloved fusion flow.  I paid half as much for fusion flow.  It's made in the usa.  Spatter is to a minimum.  It doesn't ball up on low amperage and the flux soot doesn't cake on everything.  It stays local to the weld and maybe 2mm outside of it. Hobart makes a fucking mess and looks like shit.  I also burned through with it today.  The way i did my cuts and 270* wrap around gussets was to avoid that and this wire just hates me.  Thank god for exhaust wrap!!!!!!  Curse getting those little fragments embedded in your skin tho.  Yes i wore gloves.  It got over everything anyway.

Long day.  I'll be busy as fuck all week.  Hopefully i can pull off what i aim to do this week.    My brother who told me today he learned how to do aluminum at work now has possession of my thermostat housing.  He'll be going off to school next week to further his welding/machining education.  Pretty proud of him i must say.  I hope he's able to get that job done for me though.

PhilStubbs

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Lol, I need a brother with skills. I don't even have a brother.
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obd1>gtgtall

 fucking box started smoking and i saw a flame start up so i grabbed a bucket of water and splashed it on the breaker box.

crxvtec91

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Set backs are always to be expected, you just have to tell it fuck you and keep pushing ahead. In other words DO WORK!
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My build thread; http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2444.0


I like my girls like I like my cars, rich and retarded.
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