Topic: My RATTLE CAN paint job (Read 10387 times)

Evan · « **on:** April 30, 2009, 07:11:10 AM »

Before

During

After

What do you think fuckers?

took me a week and about 20 cans of primer and walmart sealer.

only about 125 bucks into it including sand paper.

92CXyD · « **Reply #1 on:** April 30, 2009, 08:07:49 AM »

better than my feable attempts ;D

imburne · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2009, 09:18:24 AM »

If you wax it will it take off the smudges? I have no clue since I have never messed with paint so far. It looks prepped to go to the paint shop now but you guys do it different in the dirty south.

ironcrx · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2009, 01:55:23 PM »

I rattle canned mine and you cant even tell it was done with a can. dont even have the smudges

In the south we dont "go to paint shops" The paint shop comes to you. That or you just final product it yourself
I recommend different paint.
Wurth satin black trim paint is the shit i use

this one had uneven paint on the roof and hood, but that shit was easily fixed with another coat.

92CXyD · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2009, 02:02:44 PM »

Damn that looks good :yes:

1slow91hf · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2009, 03:02:58 PM »

full write up to do it even cheaper

and you can skip a few of his steps

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-Your-Car-With-Rustoleum/

MAJORAHOLE · « **Reply #6 on:** April 30, 2009, 03:34:49 PM »

i have a gun and compressor, what tip do you use?
looks like a good project for my beater, before i sell it

jarebear667 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 30, 2009, 03:39:16 PM »

reduce with thinner and a 1.3-1.5 tip stuffs thick. and spray away and on your last coat dust it on to get rid of any streaking or bloches

MAJORAHOLE · « **Reply #8 on:** April 30, 2009, 04:56:09 PM »

ya, kinda figured. i'll probably have to use my primer gun

Toysrme · « **Reply #9 on:** April 30, 2009, 05:45:23 PM »

im most of the way done spraying rustoleum on my beater civic. works better/faster spraying it with a gun. a bit cheaper too.
ive found spraying afew things over the years with rustoleum that you save alot of time, money & effort using the appropriate primer for it instead of just shooting color.
spraying 2 medium coats of professional clean metal primer is worth a good 5-6 roll on coats of straight color. its thicker, covers flaws, lets your actual color/finish coats cover & lay down better.

primer for the win. winds up saving you time, money & effort & winds up giving a superior finish.

warning on primer, do not reduce it down very far at all. you don't want it runny/watery. bearly thinner than it comes out of the can is great! (10-15%, where some people talk of thinning 25-50%)

Toysrme · « **Reply #10 on:** April 30, 2009, 05:47:51 PM »

i love using 220-320-400 grit foam for wet sanding the original body down too. samtimes just chucked on the bottom of one of my palm sanders. sometimes hot-glued onto pads for the PC 7424 orbital polisher. 400 is great for scuffing OK original paint up. 220 will strip it pretty quick without being ultra-aggressive.

Toysrme · « **Reply #11 on:** April 30, 2009, 08:51:42 PM »

yes, the rusty parts of my civic i couldn't easily wire brush off (driver's door hinges) are done with rusty metal primer.
note that rusty metal primer works because it fills the rust with fish oil, inhibiting it's growth. lacking rust on the metal the fish oil bubbles out of the primer over time.

so you only use it for rusty spots!

MAJORAHOLE · « **Reply #12 on:** May 01, 2009, 09:34:54 AM »

can this shit be wet sanded, then buffed like normal paint? and is there a clear you can get to go with it?

Toysrme · « **Reply #13 on:** May 01, 2009, 03:12:53 PM »

You can. Im not. Having good luck with it laying down thus far. Only a couple of spots have runs in them (I will wetseand the runs), not much orange peel thus far - mostly because the primer is so thick it wont run & the color attaches to the primer, yet lays down better on it.

Ill post pics when I finish up in the next few days.
Im doing Gloss Black. Did Aluminum on the wheels. They has some runs in it because I started off shooting the primer way too thin & didn't feel like sanding them all the way back down. :\

Used some SEM on the trim pieces, Duplicolor on the mud-gaurds & bumpers. Hate to say it. As many people in Civic land have hard-ons for SEM products. I don't think Im a fan. Mine wouldn't lay down correctly. Could be because the can was bought (never used) 11 years ago when I got my civic, Not taking the chance on wasting $10 a can on anymore of it when the Duplicolor was just as old & worked better.
(Was originally going to paint my car when I first got it @ 14. Haven't gotten around to it till now @ 26 LoL)

Toysrme · « **Reply #14 on:** May 01, 2009, 08:30:35 PM »

sorry i dont have much for pics. i let my parents borrow my camera and this is just what the dare took to send to a few people.

from the hotrod.com article here's the first coat of primer

some wetsanding & coat five

my civic. here's the difference in one sprayed on coat (super cheap HF HVLP gun) of rusto clean metal primer (thined maybe 10% olderless mineral spirits, civic sized car takes about 1 quart to do the whole car)

it's slightly orange peely because I dont like primer thinned out. it very prone to running! not sanded (i didn't save any of the primer, just the like 2 areas that had runs in them) anyway... i probably got more paint actually stuck to the shotting one coat of primer on than they did ultra thinning regular rustoleum & rolling it on. and surely whatever slightly orange peel i have (i chose VS having it run) was leveled out in maybe... 5 minutes wet sanding for the WHOLE CAR after the second coat was dried.

hehe i masked off the front headlights thats it. I gotta paint scraper for windows (less time to scrape them off than mask them up) and all the rubber trim looked like shit so... it ALL got meh whole car fucking rusto'd lmao

Toysrme · « **Reply #15 on:** May 01, 2009, 08:38:57 PM »

i should add the best part about the primer is that you don't have to get ALL the orange peel out of it. the regular paint lays down so well ontop of it that it will fill itself out without having to work on it.

marcj · « **Reply #16 on:** May 02, 2009, 12:09:46 PM »

since when is painting a car fabrication

HiProfile · « **Reply #17 on:** May 02, 2009, 02:46:03 PM »

Good results for cheap. I think there was a link to that "$50 Rustolium Paint Job" on the old hmt.

A good 85% of the finished look is in wet sanding. If you use enough water, the paint/primer doesn't stick to the paper much at all, and lasts a long time.

Another thing you can do with rust is use naval jelly. Grind most of it off, use the jelly, sand, re-jelly, then primer. The remaining rust turns to a sandable/paintable black oxide, and offers way more protection than a "rusty metal primer" for the trouble spots.

Loki · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2009, 03:50:40 PM »

Quote from: n/a mike on April 30, 2009, 03:27:58 PM

gonna do my nova rustoleum flat white

That'll look badass. Also once again I'm jealous I want a Nova

Toysrme · « **Reply #19 on:** May 02, 2009, 03:59:51 PM »

it is mike. there are runs in the set in parts on 3 of the 4 wheels. the first two coats of primer were too thin and i didn't realize it in the dark (im a dumbass).
yet i didn't sand them down and start over so

apparantly didn't matter to me that much haha.

ill ditto that wet sanding. you can make any paint look good if you sand it enough.

DzMiniz · « **Reply #20 on:** August 13, 2009, 11:09:22 PM »

Have ya ever looked into the "john deere" paint? like $36 a quart

t_cel_t · « **Reply #21 on:** August 14, 2009, 05:21:48 AM »

Quote from: DzMiniz on August 13, 2009, 11:09:22 PM

Have ya ever looked into the "john deere" paint? like $36 a quart

rustoleum is like 10

bryantaylor · « **Reply #22 on:** August 15, 2009, 01:57:43 AM »

thinned out sprayed rustoleum FTMFW!!! just re-painted the miata again in green. $15 paint jobs rule.

SlowVrT · « **Reply #23 on:** September 06, 2009, 04:34:57 PM »

If you got time read this, alot of people have done it this way and turned out great

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1%22]part1

heli_man · « **Reply #24 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:13:12 PM »

This is the before and after of my motorhome.

The top half is Ford implement paint (Ford 9n tractor grey) and the bottom is rattle can rubberized undercoating. It was a quick job to get it campground presentable so we didnt get turned away on our move from Baltimore to North Dakota. There were chunks of paint missing on it as you can see.

It turned out pretty good. The undercoating covered up a lot of shit on the bottom half that would have really stood out otherwise. Did the same to our 77 International Scout.

The implement paint was custom applied with a Wagner power sprayer at 10pm with a flashlight to see. Pissed the neighbors off because it was in the alley behind our house, but had to do what I had to do.

Here is a link to our blog that has some good pics of what it looked like when we picked it up and after it was done. The motorhome is at the beginning of the blog, so you will have to go the last page, but the scout is on this page.

http://movingtonorthdakota.blogspot.com/

90turboteg · « **Reply #25 on:** November 01, 2009, 03:28:39 PM »

ITs all about the john deere flat black, 27 bucks a gallon, used less than a 1/4 gallon with reducer. or there spay cans of it are 3 bucks.

News:

Author Topic: My RATTLE CAN paint job (Read 10387 times)