Forum > Forced Induction
F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
HiProfile:
I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.
This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts, since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).
crxvtec91:
--- Quote from: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 12:16:51 AM ---I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.
This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts, since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).
--- End quote ---
Tri state people run 3 by drolling one or 2 holes bigger to make the bolt fit the hole.
HiProfile:
Got some work done today.
Hood closes perfectly with the f22 P/S bracket removed.
This swap will go into my Integra, but it's a DD so I'm going to test it in the junker del sol. Now that it's in, I can make some brackets & finish the wiring. I plan do use the H23A's fuel rail on this, flipped left to right. The F22B1 has a funky fuel rail (bolts are above the injectors instead of below), but I'll make the JDM piece work. The fuel inlet is on the drivers side, flipping it puts the inlet right where I want for the Civic.
The alternator fits (took it off to get the alt bracket off). The crank pulley's alt belt teeth DO clear the frame, but only by a few MM's. No P/S unless you make your own brackets. I might try a 4-rib alt-p/s-a/c serpentine-like arrangement at some point, but the teg rack is easy enough to loop and my Civic rack is already looped.
The BEST part - it uses all STOCK MOUNTS. B-series passenger mount & t-bracket, accord driver mount. The accord mount tube (which the bolt goes through) was shortened on the front by about 2mm to fit into the chassis slot. I bolted up the accord mount, then had to pry the tranny mount's tube towards the motor a few MM's to line up.
Driver's Mount with dip stick bent over to clear:
T-bracket - needs to be cut & rewelded, thankfully the F/H block's "ear" is thinner to I'll just weld plates w/holes:
Alignment of block to tranny. The B-series angles forwards, while the F/H-series angle backwards. The engine is almost sitting at the stock angle, offering much better clearance and header alignment than an EVO or QSD kit.
This is the bracket I plan to make, except with angle iron and machined tubes/spacers below the engine block's bolts. I'll also have one more bracket below the slave cylinder that uses the original block & tranny's 12mm bolt holes. I'll also be making an angled bracket to space out the slave cylinder similar to how QSD does with a slotted aluminum bracket. NOT MY PICTURE/ENGINE:
The IACV and TPS are very close to the firewall, and I'll have to relocate the fuel filter. I think a d-series chassis Civic's filter will clear better since it's angled and closer to the passenger side.
Mods needed on the block & trans: cut off the lower rear bolt-hole ear on the F22 block, sand down a ridge right below the slave mount holes, grind the front hole I drill in the block flat for a nut/lock washer, and thread the tranny's upper 2 bolt holes with a 5/8"-11 tap for grade-8 SAE bolts.
Decided to take pics of my extra stuff.
JDM H23A dohc vtec:
$5 bolt that saved me $300+ (just left of the water pump gear):
STOCK B16A3 & trans:
Beat-up F22A6, hope to use for the 86mm 11:1cr H22/F22 build:
JDM H22A head & manifold for the above 11:1cr H22/F22 build:
ratcityrex:
Solid work!
HiProfile:
One thing I forgot, the engine sits slightly crooked. The driver's side is about 10mm lower at the mount bolt than needed to be completely level. I might just hog out the frame's holes since I'm anal about that shit. It will also put the driver's axle that much higher, which will put it closer inline with the halfshaft. It will also eliminate the need to pry the mount tubes inwards, since it will make the mount spacing wider too.
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