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[turbohf]

I'll try to keep this simple... 

bitch is getting too hot. gauge is just starting to creep when I notice. probably 213-218° so not too hot. but still hotter than I want.

did it on the B20 and now the D16Y8.

2-3 OEM lookin thermostats. at least 2 of them with hole 6-8mm in size. temp is 72°/178°

both my fans work great. and as they should. stopped and stop/go it is fine.

she heats up tough on the freeway at speed. 70+.... and if you tip in/wot...well then she gets pissy and you can just watch the temp climb. (didn't note this on the B20. didn't do many pulls on that busted motor)


its got mostly water. about quart of 100%. and water wetter per instructions.

radiator is half shrouded. half open. with 2 12" fans.

downpipe and dump are header wrapped. manifold has shield. dump tube goes to ground under tranny.

I have tried to direct air to the radiator as best as possible. got foam insulation from core support to radiator to tighten air leaks.

it has oem'ish china looking replacement radiator. maybe 5years old? 30k miles? no obvouis signs of damage etc.


that's all I can think of right now. this has been an on going thing. ambient temp gets like mid 70's she starts to act up. but didn't notice temps above 200ish on the dyno. or it creeping up.

[92CXyD]

Is all the hole routed right?

I had similar issues when I got a heater hose and another like sized hose mixed up once.

Does the temps go down when the revs are kept above 5k? 

[turbohf]

seems as the revs go up it gets exponentially hotter...

as for routed correctly? fuck idk. I guess its possible?  how should the be routed? 

[PhilStubbs]

Is your overflow filling up with coolant? Could be shitty cap

[turbohf]

Is your overflow filling up with coolant? Could be shitty cap

new Honda one. 1.1bar... dont remember checking tank. radiator is full. tank may leak. don't remember 100%.

[ratcityrex]

airflow is your problem. If it works fine around town with no overheating, then its airflow across your radiator. get rid of your intercooler for a day and just run a pipe in its place, stay out of boost while doing this and I bet your problem will go away.

[turbohf]

I have thought about pulling the intercooler and/or bumper for testing.

but one of the conditions I would like to test is wot/tip in at highway speeds.... mm...


if you are correct would an aluminum racing CRX or VW/rabbit radiator help?

[highroller54]

cant hurt to have a real rad, you have bare fans zap straped in the core or a real shroud? pushers or pullers? do they acually move hot air? not wired backwards or the blades on backwards or???

[highroller54]

post pics knee grow

[turbohf]

cant hurt to have a real rad, you have bare fans zap straped in the core or a real shroud? pushers or pullers? do they acually move hot air? not wired backwards or the blades on backwards or???

fans should be on while im on the freeway? 

but to answer the questions, yes fans are wired right, yes the blow the right direction, yes they move hot air. passenger side is shrouded, drivers side is just ziptied to radiator. they are both pullers.

post pics knee grow

of what? my car overheating?


BTW. i know that this 210-215* shit isnt really HOT. just annoys me to see the needle moving up. shit the GVR4 gets to 234* before its "hot". and its usually cold as shit, like 178* when on the freeway. and it has an intercooler that has its own ZIP code. blocking the entire grill, with lots of space for the air to go where ever it feels like. and also has a useless ass AC condenser between the 2.... 


buddy said he has an Ammco? racing aluminum VW radiator he is willing to let me barrow with a fan on it. but not sure wtf i have to do to mount that. and not sure i want it permanently, etc. he is iffy on if he wants to sell it.


i would buy a CRX full aluminum if i knew it would fit inside my chargepipes. but not sure it will...




fuck. would this be easier if the car was NA?.... hate.  built Y8 swap FS.. PM for details...

[highroller54]

cant hurt to have a real rad, you have bare fans zap straped in the core or a real shroud? pushers or pullers? do they acually move hot air? not wired backwards or the blades on backwards or???

fans should be on while im on the freeway? 

When the rad is blocked by a intercooler, yes.........

[turbohf]

i have been bringing coolant temps down with manually turning both my fans on, and turning on my heater blower. drops just fine with one or both... i dont even slow down.

[turbohf]

coolant bypass/heater hoses as shown in parts catalog for CRX and EK/Y8....
















 

[92CXyD]

How is the head bolt torque? 

[turbohf]

How is the head bolt torque? 

to spec? did the same on the B20...

[ratcityrex]

So does it feel hot? Because I remember you talking about aem not reading your Honda sensors correctly. Was your b20 ran on aem as well? Or on crome?

 I have a feeling its a few things. 1 the weather here us pretty warm right now, lack of airflow accross your rad because of your ic and you not running the fans when driving on the hwy. I have my fans set to come on at 196°

I had the same ic on my crx and it liked to run warm. But the same ic on my teg and its fine. I space them a little bit apart on the teg though, and I have a lot larger grill on the dc than you do on the crx.

[turbohf]

B20 was on crome, and the Y8 has done it on crome also. thats one of the reasons i got the tunerview. so i could watch actual coolant temp.  my fan comes on at 198° like stock. the aem shows a couple deg hotter when fans come on (with no changes). like 208-212(aem). think with the needle on the move it shows 217-220 (aem). with the tunerview/crome it was 213-215° for the needle moving.


im back on the hunt for a quality full aluminum radiator for the crx...