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Author Topic: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket  (Read 3515 times)

danwjmu

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Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« on: June 21, 2009, 02:37:06 PM »

Ok I decided to make my own thread for this shit.

Let me begin with something I've been fighting with for a while.  The fuel line was hacksawed at the firewall, fun shit.  I put a compression coupling and extenstion piece on the bitch but cracked one of the nuts on the compression coupling, awesome!  Fixed it and there it is.  Fuck this shit.



On to the bracket.  I tilted it a little bit to clear the clutch sensor thing.  It SHOULD work fine like this, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't. 



Close up of the plug.  Keep in mind I haven't smoothed anything out, these are straight hacksaw cuts and fresh flux core welds.  If I were to go into production with this I would probably clean them up significantly.  It fits in there fine like it is though.  Meh.



The pedal extended fully.



The pedal depressed.



Here you can see how much space there is between the pedal and the floor when the clutch is pushed in.  Shorter range of travel, I suggest putting a bump stop there on the floor.



A shot with the heater core in and the door vent tube, which needs to be modified or deleted.  I'm probably going to delete it and run a flexible line over to the dash hole or the piece that connects to it.

More pics to come, camera ran out of space.

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Joseph Davis

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2009, 12:40:41 PM »

LOOKS LIKE GARBAGE






I am proud of you.

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2009, 01:11:02 PM »

Looks good so far. I recall on oHMT some guy here in Wisconsin did something similar. Except his was MIG'd with thicker steel. While you have it out, I would HIGHLY recommend you brace the outside of that pedal bolt (pivot point), it's not uncommon for that bolt to sheer off with a heavier clutch. Basicly you just need an "L" bracket welded to the base (flush with the firewall mount) that supports the outside of that pivot bolt.


I absolutely hate cable clutch, I'd have done that next if I had kept my EF. Good job.
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Joseph Davis

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2009, 01:13:54 PM »

I'm going to say that bracing it is probably optional at this stage - 75% of the pedal effort in a cable setup is due to it being a cable setup.  Remove the cable and the pedal effort will get easier.

Joseph Davis

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2009, 06:25:03 PM »

Welding most washers results in them cracking.  Pre and post heating would likely cure that... but it's a stupid $0.07 washer. 

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2009, 01:21:01 AM »

I'd still brace the side. At least one guy complained that it started cracking elsewhere. Since it's out, and its all of an L-bracket with a hole, why not?
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they mspainted dildoes in my mom'#039#039s hand, in a picture of her in a hospital bed. -JD
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Towdogg

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2009, 08:34:41 PM »

Thats gangster!   ?   What motor mounts do you have to change/use to make the motor bolt in....
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Joseph Davis

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #7 on: June 25, 2009, 11:17:42 PM »

I'm proud of you, Daniel Wilberger.  Good work.

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2009, 11:22:49 PM »

I you look at it from the driver's seat, behind the left side of the bolt. The pedal only has support on the inside, and the bolt can sheer off right where it goes through the first hole.

An easy way to figure it out is to pretend the bolt is a regular pencil, and pretend you push the pedal in hard. Guess which way it's going to bend & snap, then weld the L-brace on. If the bolt has support on both sides like a 1-wheel wheel barrel, it will be much stronger.
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bouncinofftherevlimiter

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2009, 10:28:20 PM »

I you look at it from the driver's seat, behind the left side of the bolt. The pedal only has support on the inside, and the bolt can sheer off right where it goes through the first hole.

An easy way to figure it out is to pretend the bolt is a regular pencil, and pretend you push the pedal in hard. Guess which way it's going to bend & snap, then weld the L-brace on. If the bolt has support on both sides like a 1-wheel wheel barrel, it will be much stronger.

when it comes to mounting something that pivots...

double shear>single shear
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sloTeg

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2009, 10:32:19 PM »

i was gonna repost up my same conversion till i ran across this, so i figure ill just add to this thread. posted this on oHMT about a year ago. I used 1/4 steel and replaced the stock pivot bolt with a 1/2 bolt, held solid for the 1000 miles the motor lasted, with a LSD dragger clutch and ACT extreme 6 puck. All you really need is access to a welder, some scrap steel, a sawzall and a drill.





« Last Edit: October 18, 2009, 11:21:43 AM by sloTeg »
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Joseph Davis

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2009, 01:00:48 AM »

Nicely done.

onlyflash944

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Re: Cable pedal with hydro master cylinder bracket
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2009, 08:45:42 PM »

forgot the rattle can black
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