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[speedjunky01]

ok so after i boosted my civic i did an oil change on it to get some fresh fluids in it. I used 5w-30 M1 dyno juice. The oil pressure is very low once the car is fully warmed up and its hot out

its out of spec about 7-10psi at idle and 35-40psi at 3000

what weight oil would you guys suggest to run?

I was thinking of getting some 15w-50 since there are less addatives in it and the gap im viscosity is lower. the problem is i like in NH its about 95 outside in the summer and hovers around 15 in the winter.

I was thinking of going to synthetic but at 240,000 miles. . . its a little late for synthetic e

[onlyflash944]

do some research on oil coking and turbos and then you can answer your own question

and whats so out of speck with your psi?  10 psi per 1000 rpm is usually reasonable

[speedjunky01]

do some research on oil coking and turbos and then you can answer your own question

and whats so out of speck with your psi?  10 psi per 1000 rpm is usually reasonable

the factoy manual said should be at about 20-25 at idle and climb 10 per 1000rpm

looked around here, and read some stuff in maximum boost but am still unsure

[ApexSilver06MR]

gear oil will raise that oil pressure...

ive always ran 10w30

[speedjunky01]

gear oil will raise that oil pressure...

ive always ran 10w30

yeah max boost said the a single weight oil is the best to run,

i think im gonna go with

15w-50 in the summer

and 5w-30 in the winter it ges cold as FUCK up here and i take the car even further north for snowboarding and on the mountains at night ive seen -25 F at night without the windchill

i change it 3000 miles or 6 moths whichever is first

[ratcityrex]

I run 10-30 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter if im parking my car in the driveway. If its in the garage(where it is most of the time i still run10-30)

[jagojon3]

I run 10w30 durablend and my cheapo electric oil pressure gauge says 0 psi at idle when warmed up. The dash light doesn't come on though.

[speedjunky01]

I run 10w30 durablend and my cheapo electric oil pressure gauge says 0 psi at idle when warmed up. The dash light doesn't come on though.

lmao

[danz]

i run 5w50 synthetic.  good shit.  25psi at idle after a 2 hour highway drive.

[patsmx5]

Walmart synthetic oil.

[ratcityrex]

My gauge says 20psi at idle, anything over 3k is 80-90 psi. Im sure it will go down a touch once i throw the turbo on.

[widebody93]

My gauge says 20psi at idle, anything over 3k is 80-90 psi. Im sure it will go down a touch once i throw the turbo on.

True story here. I run Royal Purple 5-30 and 5-20 in the 2008 CRV

[HiProfile]

I run 10w30 durablend and my cheapo electric oil pressure gauge says 0 psi at idle when warmed up. The dash light doesn't come on though.

I got that with the autometer mech that was stolen. Dummy light never came on, but it would drop from 15psi to 0psi at idle (extremely fast, I might add). FYI most gauges aren't that great on the outter 30% of their range, meaning 0-15 and 85-100 range is probably over 5-10% from accurate. Autocrap gauge needles are probably not set properly anyways, so take the readings with a grain of salt. For best results, calibrate your own honeywell pressure sensor, then measure the voltage to check your psi. Use the gauge for CHANGES, not absolute values.

My built z6 w/fresh ported/devcon'd oil pump would drop below 10psi at idle with an autometer gauge when it got very hot, and below 40psi at 3k on a looong trip. I changed from 10w-30 to 10w-40 and it's a lot better. That's running 16psi every day I drive it, no issues. I don't stick to a particular brand because I'm cheap and it can help reduce certain deposits.


The trade-off with thicker oil is it doesn't flow as well. Oil pressure isn't worth shit if your oil doesn't want to go where it's needed.

[patsmx5]

The trade-off with thicker oil is it doesn't flow as well. Oil pressure isn't worth shit if your oil doesn't want to go where it's needed.

This. Oil pressure keeps parts from touching, but the flow of oil caries heat away from the parts it lubricates too. Thicker oils don't flow as well and subsequently don't cool as well. And if things get too hot and expand too much, and bind up, you can spin a bearing. When engines are being machined, the machinst clearances the engine based on what it's supposed to do and the oil weight needed to do that reliably.